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downwardspiral

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Everything posted by downwardspiral

  1. I'm also drawn to the idea for the reliability and road manners. I don't want a 600 hp cleveland to drive on the streets because it probably means filled block, no vacuum and will rattle your teeth out. I would be just fine with a 400ish hp Cleveland which isn't rocket surgery to make happen. It looks like I am keeping the Cleveland since a friend came through at the last minute asking if I want to buy his fresh bottom end for cheap. I have built heads rusting away on the bench in my garage, and will just need to drop the $1000+ on my cam now. It will work out cheaper than the LS swap and I will be on the road much much quicker which was my main concern. I may still start collecting parts for the swap so when the time comes it's ready to roll. Looks like you're both having some fun, nice builds!
  2. I may actually go this route, just checked out my friend's LS swap car and looked into the potential issues we would run into. Right away, the steering linkage would interfere with a rear-sump oil pan. I am pretty sure I would need to eliminate the clutch z-bar all together and run a hydraulic throw out bearing. I would like to have more than 4 gears anyway so I would be looking for an engine and trans setup. I already need new exhaust and my driveshaft is a failure waiting to happen so that's not really a big deal. There are several options for exhaust manifolds so I will need to take a bunch of measurements before I am positive it will work but it seems pretty straightforward at the moment. I am estimating the whole swap to be roughly the same as just building the cleveland and using my existing exhaust, trans and driveshaft. Seems like the way to go as of right now. I'm sorry everyone. :D
  3. I think this is the first time I saw someone do something like this and actually like it. I'm really interested to see what it looks like when it's done!
  4. My local speed shop told me I can use a thick head gasket to knock down the compression. I built a set of Aussie heads kind of mindlessly, and they are 58cc. I can't run them as is and planned on running a thick gasket and a nasty cam. Overlap will also knock down the dynamic compression. Cometic makes up to .120 gasket I believe, which sounds ridiculous but apparently work. The downside is you lose the quench effect with the thick head gasket.
  5. Do you have any more info? Compression, cam info, stock bottom end etc.. I may be interested
  6. That I would just do behind closed doors.. I know better than to post than on a classic car forum :D I would love a coyote, and have a 2011 mustang which I rebuilt the engine in (and an 04 mountaineer with a 4.6 that was apart). I like modulars but they are huge compared to the LS/pushrod fords. I am kind of turned off from pushrod fords because I have a coyote powered car that was supercharged. LS's are direct competetors with coyotes so it's a logical step to me. Because the car is an original 4bbl Mach 1. To me it feels like a windsor is just half assing it. Going completely different engine family is "I decided to experiment with something else." I've owned a bunch of later model f-bodies, and those specifically in my mind follow the sheep following... deal, any f-body really. Everyone LS swaps them and there are plenty of good choices that will accomplish the same thing without LS swapping them. With the original Cleveland engine in these cars there aren't as many good parts choices out there if you want to build something really trick, at least not without a ton of looking for $$$ and rare parts. Honestly I like to tinker with my cars, and I REALLY didn't want a car that was worth anything in original form. I stumbled on an original 4bbl 71 Mach 1, mostly complete, mostly straight, no rust besides a little surface rust arizona car with 60some K miles that had been stored since the 80's for VERY cheap, like as in cheaper than ANY car I've ever bought (and I've owned some beaters). I figure that when I get around to messing with the drivetrain in this car I'll pull it and store it properly, since it being with the car is what gives it value. When I get to messing with this thing whatever goes in it will be done to be bolt in. Things that have gone through my head have been the a crazy cleveland build using nascar style parts and maybe aussi aluminum heads, LS swap, Ecoboost (I own a 2012 SHO which is loads of fun and fast for a 4600lb car), convert to electric, a big block of some sort, a late model mod motor (almost a non starter, they're physically enormous, bigger than a big block and I worked on too many of them when I worked at the speed shop, I don't like them)... out of that list the cleveland and LS would be the easiest to do as a bolt in, the rest I doubt could be done without cutting the car up some. The crazy C build would be a real PITA to get parts for, and I'd likely want to find another block to start with... the LS will have the much greater flexibility WRT to available parts to do my tinkering with. I could care less what others are doing or not doing with the cars and whatever engine. I build oddball stuff that people tell me is impossible anyway (my other big project right now is a Trans Am with a 30y/o stock bottom end 305in it, with a completely custom converted LT1 headed top end and valve train making 481hp to the tires... no one believes you can make LS crushing power with a 305, no one believed I'd get the LT1 heads working on it, or get the flow numbers that I did with the small bore, or make this kind of power out of a low compression turbo build without a turbo on it... what do you think it will be like turbocharged?) I feel like we think alike. I honestly haven't thought much about the big block route. All I see is dollar signs but I could definitely be wrong. The problem I forsee is cooling with the cast iron everything. Aluminum seems to be the way to go if I'm not going cleveland. Aluminum by nature dissipates heat quickly.
  7. Here's the pic for anyone who doesn't want to click the link.. looking good!
  8. +1. There are plenty of Windsor blocks available, aluminum heads, intakes, and other power goodies. You can save another 90 pounds by getting an aluminum block. Back when I was monitoring the Pony Express 90 race in Nevada, you should have heard the bow-tie boys howl when a guy showed up with a 428 FE powered Camaro. I figured turnabout was fair play :whistling: The thing is I will pretty much need a new exhuast, and my car is injected although I will probably go the fitech route anyway regardless of what I run. I was running megasquirt on a junky 2bbl cleveland. The engine is apart, the cam is wiped and I have Aussie heads built for it but I don't really want to spend money on a rotator or major block work considering the Cleveland block seems to only hold around 500-600 reliably. If I can re-use my bottom end I'll definitely stick with the Cleveland with a solid roller and be happy. If it becomes a full build I will likely go a different route. Windsors are good but I feel like LS's are a better starting point and from what I understand more plentiful. My buddy also said there's ways to bolt a toploader to an LS and he seems pretty good with the swap stuff. He has a Bronco with a 4BT and an LTD with a 4.6 and seems to make anything work. The car is the first car I ever had and don't plan on selling it, I'm just doing progressively weirder things to it. I'd probably do something dumb like dress it up like a coyote to keep the heat off. Thanks for not revoking my membership on the spot haha. To me anything you're going to put your foot down with is a crap shoot. I like things that are cheap to put back together. I rebuilt my coyote and spenta good amount in just the torque to yield bolts for the cams. Hopefully the body doesn't reject it :) I'm hoping it would be a removable swap that wouldn't require anything permanent. I'm actually surprised I haven't found anyone who has done it. What about a 4bt for the Jeep? :angel: The Cleveland is not a cheap engine to build, and the cost of a Windsor swap would be (arguably) close in my estimation.
  9. Not even trolling, has anyone done an LS swap? I know it's sacrilegious, but it's a good, plentiful and compact mostly aluminum engine. I'm weighing my engine options before I start spending money, and I don't want to go the modular route because I don't want to hack up the shock towers and spend money on coilovers.
  10. I know I don't post often around here so I'll keep youz guys'z up to speed with my project. 73 mach 1 - 351c with custom megasquirt fuel injection which is currently apart with the aussie heads at the machine shop (I have a set of 2v heads I am looking to get rid of :angel:). While the engine is out I have been working on the engine bay and making everything crescent fresh. I just finished the hood and I sprayed the inside of one fender, with the cowl panel (replaced a few years back but did a sloppy job) and passenger side of the engine bay primed.. along with the inner fenderwell, so that's pretty much ready for paint (sorry no pictures today). I had custom injector bungs welded in a carb manifold a while back and just slapped the car together to drive it around so today I cleaned up the inside of the runner where the bung was protruding. I never used a burr on a grinder before and couldn't figure out why it was bouncing all over the place. I learned that the burr cuts smoothly when you run it right to left only, holding it perpendicular to the workpiece. enough BS and words about learning books, here are pictures- Here's the hood: and the manifold: I have next week off, so I will be doing nothing but going to the drag strip and working on this thing. More to come.
  11. I have to be the only asshole on here to do it.. 420-blaze it
  12. This is the coolest thing I've seen this week since the plywood rotisserie.
  13. That's about what I was quoted to have my Aussie heads machined, seems like a fair price to me.
  14. Mine too, but I think $27k is fair. I have the "highly desirable" H-code 351c.
  15. Pulled the engine apart completely. The main bearings were all coppered out along with a few rod bearings. Cylinders can use a de-glaze The cam's pretty flat on a few lobes I will start ordering parts and cleaning/painting things. I am considering re-wiring the car because the engine bay is so messy. I am going to start looking into a 3g alternator swap because it is so clean too. My alternator looks like a decroded piece of crap lol,
  16. I ended up using 4x 7/16-14 UNC x 3" grade 8 bolts and washers. To attach the engine to the harbor freight 1000lb stand I bought, I had to attach the top 2 swinging pieces as straight through spacers in order for them to line up.
  17. Ripped apart the engine 2 lifters are wiped out: Pistons are OK, cylinders could use some cleaning up coolant was from pulling the head off heads are OK I guess, I still have a set of Aussies sitting around Didn't see anything crazy down here: needs a new pan and gasket though, I'll throw in a new pump while I'm at it. Can anyone recommend anything I should replace or check while it's apart? I'm going to throw in a new cam, timing chain, lifters, pushrods, water pump, and new gaskets all around (obviously). Can't wait to clean up this mess too:
  18. Pulled the motor today to freshen it up and clean up the engine bay while it's out. I am going to pull it apart after work tommorow, so expect some pictures.
  19. I will when I really start working on it. I'm not sure where I was going with my comment lol, I had a couple beers yesterday. sorry Lol beer. I have a couple of near new stock wrx turbos in the shed. You had me thinking :) I'm probably going with a master power 76mm or a used precision if I can find one locally. I would even put a centrifugal blower on it if I can find one cheap enough, it would simplify alot of the plumbing. I am already running megasquirt fuel injection on the car so adding forced induction is really just a matter of fabricating everything and tuning it and I have the tools, garage and willpower to make it happen. I'm pulling my engine tommorow just to clean it up, but I'll pull it again when the weather is cooler to start fabricating. I'm hoping to keep the stock manifolds but I might need to weld up some custom headers out of schedule 40 piping.
  20. Interesting I like the sound of that. Share the knowledge old son :cool: I will when I really start working on it. I'm not sure where I was going with my comment lol, I had a couple beers yesterday. sorry
  21. I'm doing to junkyard turbo build.. should make more power than the block can handle for cheap.
  22. I looked online and found the thread size should be 7/16-14 (UNC) but I am unsure of the length. My engine stand will take up 2" of bolt, I would imagine would want 1/2" minimum engagement and the flange on the engine looks to be ~3/4-1" thick, Which would be about a 3" long bolt. I will get a few bolts in that range, as you said grade 8 bolts (zinc dichromate heavy duty bolts) and report back with the right size.
  23. How are you guys bolting the engine to the stand? Does anyone know the bolt size they used? I'd like to buy them in advance.
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