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M Beauchamp

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Everything posted by M Beauchamp

  1. I just installed a rebuilt gear box in my jeep last night, in about an hour and a half. its an easy job I rebuilt my mustang gear box, the rebuild kit is cheap, but it takes a whole saturday to finish. Like others said google the saginaw gear box rebuild videos and follow along http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/570869-saginaw-box-rebuild-how.html Your gear box is forty year old and its loaded with rubber and teflon seals, if its leaking its just going to get worst You need a good pick and lots of lube to slip the seals on and off The spool valve has little dowel pins and have to line up just right to get the assembly back together properly When you install the balls you have to alternate the dark and shinny balls, use a pick to stop the balls from going the wrong way on the worm gear, alternate the back and forth on the holes keep 4 or 5 to go in the return tube you can use vaseline to hold them in the tube Good luck
  2. Welcome From Sarnia Where about are you located? Good luck with the Boss, well a real Boss your gonna see 5000 mustangs with the decals
  3. Hi Guys Meet up with Garret today He came down to pick up the rotisserie Cool visit talking about our cars It all adds to keeping up the mojo to get the car finished
  4. Wow Mike its looking real nice I haven't seen the progress for a while so its nice to see things coming together One thing i suggest for your door hinges is welding a pipe sleeve in between the center section then bore the two end so that the long bushing is supported over the full lenght of the bushing in stead of just 3/16 thickness of the hinge, easy job to make sure your doors never drop Keep up the nice work Thanks for the inspiration
  5. Have a good Christmas Guys Drive safe
  6. Chris The rear 1/4 windows are fixed , a lot of guys swap out to make them operational If this is a Rust Free Southern car then you have a good starting point The items you listed to update the interior can be easily 3k I think this would make a real nice Summer Driver at the right price I looked on Kijiji and there are 3 Mach1 in the 20K (Can$) range in ontario that look like guys have a bunch more money into than the green car. and i would think 15k Can$ would get any of them, which is fair considering the guys could easily have 25K into them. So you can use the comments your getting from members to help you convince the owner his car only worth 7-8 grand then dress it up and you will have a nice car Onc of the members has a rule of thumb for estimating restorations "What ever you think it will cost x3 will get you close" I know finding a nice rust free car in Ontario is almost non exist, so i can appreciate a nice southern car. Also when i start my journey i was thinking say original keep the value in the car. Now i could care less, I want it to end up how i want it and i keep changing my mind as i go. but that's because i just want to drive the car Good luck and keep us posted on your journey
  7. Hello From Sarnia Well my two cent would be 7k to 10k If it is truly rust free, which i highly doubt if it is a Canadian car Look to see if it had the pan replaced, What shape the torque boxes and rail Check the cowl ends and the base of the spring towers The body look nice Needs a bit of work I could see spending another 5k on the car after to get it looking real nice so at that point your looking 13-15K which is tough to get back out of these cars I think if you like it and want to drive the shit of of it then go for it
  8. Before I Purchased My 73 Vert project car in knew nothing about the 71-73 Mustangs, except that they where very cool looking. Seeing how many new member we now have on the site that purchased a project car, I thought that collectively we could advise new and potential members with their journey on finding a project that will actually end up getting finished and help promote the 71-73 mustang era. The more of these cars that are restored, will makes the our cars more valuable and reproduction parts more viable to produce, which is good for us all. So if every one can chime in and comment on what they think is a good thing to look for when trying to find a viable 71-73 mustang project and something to stay away from when finding a project car, it will be a good starting place for new members Speaking from my own experience i wish i had this benefit before i found my project.
  9. If my car was finish I would have drove it all week. But at least i can plug away on it with out freezing
  10. Projects is Looking Good Keep up the nice work
  11. My advise is to keep looking for a good daily driver Everyone on the site will help you fine one and or help check them out for you. This will give you the benefit of years of wisdom I bought my first 69 coupe at your age which took a bit of work to safety it but, i was able to drive it as i worked on it. Good luck
  12. Welcome from Sarnia Ontario Canada It looks like the body is in decent shape, but the guys has done some some custom work, judging by the picture you have a 69 hood scoop and mirrors of something else If the guy has huge tire on the back he may have tubbed the wheel wells which i would think means he planned bring this to the strip These aren't bad thing if the work was well done The most important thing for you to check is the condition of the frame rails and under body if that's in good shape then you have a good starting point As for the motor goes, if this guys was dragging this car he could have allot into the motor I think you need to dig a little deep on the motor to figure to rebuild it or swap it Take some pictures under the car and show us so we can help you on this Pic of the wide tires and rear end transmission frame and floor pans engine bay If the frame is good i would thing 2,500 is a good deal
  13. Looks great Its nice to see other projects get finish It help keep up the Mojo
  14. I have a similar problem at one wiper blade I was thinking about using a 3M plastic headlamp repair kit to polish it out I Haven't tried it yet but interested if anyone has don this before
  15. I doubt this its running out the drip stick I had an issue with my vette when i first got it It had sat for 5 yrs so there was fluid every where which made figuring it out hard I found the rubber return line leaking and change it Then i found a pin hole on a cylinder hose tube section at the fitting and changed it Then i found the cylinder seal linking and changed it My point is that the fluid come out like a power washer and sprays everywhere and runs down everything You should be able wipe every thing down then isolate the area were the leak is
  16. Guys does anyone have a couple of the snap in 1/4" nut for the base bracket on the Quarter windows or where can you find these I have tried a couple diffrent approches But its a tough spot
  17. Sorry Guys i missed attaching the drawing for the rear support Its in the PDF attachment now
  18. I installed the inner rocker on jack stands before I put it on the rotisserie I never braced the the door area because i maintained the opening measurements The car was fine with no door bracing and the door fit great If a guy is going to do rocker replacement on the rotisserie the I would suggest bracing the door openings and use jack stands under while you change that section out
  19. Hello Guys Garret is going take the Rotisserie for his 71 vert project I did upload the sketches on the unit (PDF) that anyone could build one with It is set up to bolt on to the rear bumper bolt holes and bolt to the two hole at the bottom of the front frame I should have build this at the start of my project as it would have saved allot of crawling on my back it was nice for doing body work
  20. Hello guys Now that I am finished with the rotisserie that I built for my 73 Vert Project, I would like to past it on to any member who is near by that wants to do a 71-73 restoration I don't want to ship it, but any one who is close by is welcome to it. Just pass it on to another member when your project is done I am in Sarnia Ontario which is right across from Port Huron Michigan Its set up to fit a 71-73 I have also attached my sketches that I used to build it if anyone want to make one up 71-73 Mustang Rotisserie.pdf
  21. The car looks great nice job! however you should have fit the bumper before you painted I spent about 6 Saturdays getting my aprons, hood, fenders, valance, trims and grill to fit this was by far the hardest part of my car to get right I had to re-fit the front aprons and radiator support to get it to work correct I measure every thing before i started however the bumper original probably never fit very well Now that you have painted i would try pulling the bolts out of the light boxes so they don't hold the fender from moving pull the front 4 or 5 top fender bolts pull the bolts from the fender braces by the marker light Make sure your bumper front support arm connection can shift right and left also set the bumper height so it lines up correct when the bolts are tight The trick now is to pull the top of the fenders out and bolt them then pull the marker braces around to get the fenders to cup out and fit the bumper The bumper moves in-out, up-down, L/R which will need to be adjusted as you get you fender in the right spot you can open up some of these holes with a file Good luck It will fit with a lot of TLC
  22. Great idea especially with a High build fill primer your gonna scratch mostly off
  23. Guys I just rebuilt my two pancake window motor One work OK and one didn't work more than a little bit I used the Cougar u tube video that show how to rebuild these units, which was great However it took me a while to figure out why I couldn't get the one working correctly So if you are going to try this fix use the video it easy, be real careful to not stick your screw driver inside when separating the halves Use only white grease Use Butyl tape caulk to seal all around the halves, but don't use any between the armature cover plate and the one half as it will squish into the teeth of the armature What is missing from this video, which took me five tries to figure out, was that my armature was warped, and wasn't tracking in the proper location to work correctly It may have always been this way all along or I could have done it when i tore it apart To correct this i used my Dial indicator installed only the armature on the side of the case on its pivot Marked the armature in 8 segments (1 to 8) Then watched the run out I had about 25 thou difference from the high to low So i gently flex the armature in the areas it was out One spot at a time checking and repeating I was able to get the run out with in 5 thou They both work great now I hope this help some one out if your gonna try this rebuild
  24. There are three set of wires on that section on harness Purple goes to the seat belt re-tractor P-W-H is the seat belt sensor BK is the Automatic seat back latch solenoid The Seat back relay and seat belt buzzer is above the glove box
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