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M Beauchamp

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Everything posted by M Beauchamp

  1. Wow lots of work going on there! It looks like you have lots of good metal there, I wouldn't cut it out my self If you have a good dolly set you can bump that out. Use the other rocker panel to make a template of the profile That and a good straight edge is all you need Who care if it takes two days to get it, as this will be a lot faster than a patch work quilt job If you haven't bumped out dents before then watch a couple videos of the hot rod guys and bang on some sheet metal before you have a go at it You can weld up the holes from the puller Also find the video Q made on using a shrink disk so that you can fine tune the spot if you stretch it to much If you have patience you could fix that with next to no bondo This is what I would try first Good luck
  2. Maybe soon we can just 3D print all the hard to get parts
  3. The car sitting won't cause the bearings to go bad Jack your car up so the tire is off the ground Grab the tire on the top and bottom and feel if you have play up and down Don't go side to side on the front If you can't feel play and you can't hear noise your good If you do then you need to open them up to see what you have going on Check them first then if you need help we can explain what to do Front are easy enough The rear are a bit more time consuming If you pull you rear drums and have gear oil leaking, you most likely have a bad bearing as well
  4. Ok thanks I got it Couldn't see the forest for the trees They plug into each other I look at that thing for two days scratching my head
  5. I has searched through the site but can't find anything to help me ID these items and how they hook back up What is the red box ? What ties into it? What the red connector below? What does it tie into?
  6. Hello Chris If that car was in Canada, sitting in a field of grass like it would be a rust bucket, but its hard to tell what its like from the video I would suggest going back and checking out the floors, rocker panels, frame rails door bottoms, etc. Judging from the quarter panels ,i think it bad
  7. Well I believe Laurel Mountain Mustang may be out of business! I try calling all last week and again this week and get keep getting an after hours message, during regular business hours I also read a resent complaint on line where the customer order a special muffer kit and never recieved it, he then contacted the manufacture who told him it was ready to ship but Laurel Mountain Mustang need to pay thier account before they would ship it out Is there any one near by Laurel Mountain Mustang that can confirm that there is a big out of busness sign out front?
  8. Wow the car is looking great Q Wish I had your Shop, Some day maybe!
  9. Laurel Mountain Mustang is the worst scammers I every got screwed by Don't get screwed by these guys They never shipped both upper control arms Missing the rear sway bar hardware And a damaged shock Wont return emails Keep stating that it is shipped
  10. This looks great I am going to do the same thing (some day soon I hope), painting the stripes on the sides and the hood I think it will look great with the clear Also think it will last forever Show some pics when it's top coated
  11. Need a good white metal 73 passenger side front fender extension with the three pins in tact It light enough to mail I am in Ontario but have a Michigan PO box as well PM me if you can help out Thanks
  12. Hay Guys Stainless looks great but a bitch to take apart if you haven't used lubrication A bitch to get apart means, never and or zip cut them off. If you use them get a can of spray on graphite and coat just the threads let it dry and your good to go.
  13. Hood hinges = Frustration Trying to get my hood aligned properly to the fenders, fender to the doors, fenders to the aprons, has been the most frustrating task on the restoration so far. 1st attempt I try what I though was a good tight set of hinges, but the hood walked all over the place and never returned to the same place twice, in addition it scraped the fender as the hood opened and closed 2nd attempt I purchased new 1/2" bore rivets (1/8" over size), disassembled the hinges, re-drilled all the pivot points, re-pressed the rivets. This got the slop of the ovaled out holes, but there was way to much slop The hinges get out of sync and there was way to much side to side movement Basically I ended up with the same results as the original hinges 3rd attempt Knowing that if I couldn't get my hood to open and close smoothly with out scraping the fenders I wouldn't be able to move forward on the restoration project, so here is what I ordered from McMaster Carr to rebuild the hinges 1 91259A705 14 Each Alloy Steel Shoulder Screw, 1/2" Diameter X 3/8" Long Shoulder, 3/8"-16 Thread 2 98001A145 2 Packs Plain Steel Tab-base Weld Nut W/center Pilot, 3/8"-16 Thread Size 3 5906K535 28 Each Sae 841 Solid Bronze Thrust Bearing, For 1/2" Shaft Diameter, 1" Od, 3/32" Thick I completely dismantled the hinges and replace all the pivots with shoulder bolts with bronze thrust washers on each side of the rotating part All the holes are drilled out to 1/2" diameter I have welded a welded nut to what I will call the fixed part I used plain washers as spacers to hold the weld nut tight and keep the end of the shoulder slightly into the 1/2" hole so that every thing would center on the hole I wanted the bolt head to show as much as possible rather than the weld nut, here you can see the locations that I welded the weld nut to. I kept the welded nuts to. The hood side The front arm needs only one weld nut, but remember you will need a right and left hand The back arm need one weld nut and also need the one edge flattened out to allow the hinge to close because of the bolt heads The main body needs two weld nuts, as well I added two stiffener plates to stop the side to side sway which you can see needed to be beveled to allow for the apron ribs Heat the edge up Hammer down then grind off the excess The bottom arm needs one weld nut and one edge grinder down about 1/4" to allow the hinge to close properly and not hit a bolt head I scraped the light gage bent arm and replaced it with 1/4" x1" flat bar keeping the same hole to hole dimension and adding a scalloped area to miss hitting a bolt head Here you can see how the pivot bolts up I was using jamb nuts to test the assembly, but after wards I cut the excess thread flush with the weld nut and welded the end to keep it from backing out I also added a tab so that the rear arm has a positive stop This keeps the top rear of the hood at the exact height you set the hinges to every time Here is one hinge in the open position Here is one hinge in the closed position Here is the hinge installed with the hood on it The nice part about the pivots is that the parts and thrust washers are tight with no slop then once you start to rotate the part the oil inpregated thrust washer slide and lubricated the pivot and will never need lubricating This pivot the hoods smooth as a baby's bum and has absolutely no side to side movement If I did another set I would use a one piece nut with a washer which would have welded up nice I would have also cut the threads back 1/8" so that I could plug weld the inside of the nut to hold the shoulder bolt which would have ground up nice for a cleaner look You will also need a tap and die nut to chase the treads after welding If anyone want to try this just message me and I will answer any questions Bottom line is that this works as smooth as my 2011 explorer hood
  14. Has any one tried this conversion It uses the following doner cars 1992 to 1995 or 1996 to 2002 - Crown Victoria, 1992 to 1995 or 1996 to 2002 - Grand Marquis' 1991 to 1995 or to 1996 - 2002 - Lincoln Town Car http://www.boyerfour.com/mustang/rear/small_bearing_ford_8_9.htm Looks like it is straight forward
  15. I would suggest starting on the engine bay The reason being is that you can pull a panel and replace a panel without loosing your geometry Always do one panel at a time any where on the car Take measurements and pictures before you start then you will have your reference when you start re-installing Go to harbour freight and buy like 10 spot weld cutters Get the little zip cut saw with a couple boxes of the disks Get a 1/2 belt file sander and lots of belts Get hard wire for your welder and use shielding gas , don't use flux core as it welds like crap On your way back from harbour freight stop at the pharmacy and get bandaids and poly sporran as the journey you are stating will require ample amounts of blood sweat and many choice swear words Most of the engine bay you can drill out the spot welds or use a spot weld cutter Just think about which side would be best to plug weld from So drill them out if you want to weld from the old panel side Spot weld cut them if you want to weld from the new panel side, this means you can drill your new holes in your new panel so that you can plug weld them back up using your old panel with out holes behind When you remove you old panels you can use the cut of grinder to remove the balance if the spot weld, then you can use the 1/2 file sander to finish the prep When you weld up the panel by plug welding the 3/8 spot weld cutter holes, just skate around the perimeter stop and start if you need to so that you don't blow threw You can use the cut of grinder and 1/2 file sander to clean off the weld high spots Then fill the Center of the plug weld in and clean up the high spots This should get you rolling on the easier welding and fitting The blasting I would suggest just do the area your working on If you blast and don't prime within a day or two it will just start to rust all over again I would also plastic and tape off the other areas as the grinding particles will get every where and in every seam Scott has video of the floor replacement which is the right way to to do them but you will have to be good at welding to butt weld them together Leave the back till last and get full 1/4's as this would save you a lot of body work later Good luck and post pic as you go
  16. You have a 73 fender on the DS and a 71-72 fender on the PS Don't even try to weld up a piece, I had a good 71-72 fender for my 73 and though it could be done however the notch on the fender is different as well as the inner sheet metal, so I never tried to modify the fender because I would not have been happy with the hodgepodge. I just ended up swapped a guy for my 71-72 for a nice 73 I am just at the point of fitting the fender , bumper extensions, fender extensions, light boxes and must say that I am glad I have the proper fender as there is to much going on in the front corner to mess with Good luck
  17. If those black spots are holes in roof, then I agree, ask the guys in the southern states to find you a nice roller I use the roller I got from Mike in SoCal and cut my vert up for parts Coupe for coupe would be very fast to swap 800 should find a roller 800 will ship it any where Paint the roller first Do your swap out Sell off your extra parts and you may break even If the roof isn't that bad then the floors are not that hard to do Food for though! Buying a old mustang is like life You get the tested first, then learn the lessons after If I knew a 10 th of what I have learned on this forum before I buy my cars I would be driving one by now But it's still very fun Welcome and good luck!
  18. I keep seeing one for 1400 Ya that's why I keep seeing it for sale
  19. Ok this my make some of you guys jealous, but here is fruits of my road trip this week end A pair of rear interior panels withe the power window cut outs in decent shape for $80 And my favourite by far My new Nasa hood Don't cry guys like Doritos, they will make more hoods
  20. 1973 Mustang Mach 1 Fastback Project green title $3000 http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/pts/4465575386.html Here is a decent project car in Detroit for 3k Looks like he has the majority of the main parts worked out
  21. I would do this conversion in a heartbeat if I had a piece of crap fast back and a southern coupe with a 351 4v in it When I went through the coupe to see how hard it would be to convert it to a convertible, it was very obvious that these are the exact same cars up until the last few parts are welded on the body On this site I have seen more nice coupes get cut up to save a fast back that should have really been a donor car. It's probable a different situation up her in ontario the land of the salted winter roads as as most of these cars are rusted beyond repair
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