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Tucaz520

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  • My Car
    1973 Mach1

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    Charlotte nc
  • Region
    Northeast

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  1. ok someone with more electrical brains than me check my work PLEASE!!!!! I bought a remote operated relay instead of the bluetooth controlled one but this is how i tested my theory. 1. Ran 12 volts to the device and a green led came on. 2. Tested for continuity between the 3 remaining terminals on the device. I picked the 2 that did not have continuity. 3. pressed the button on the remote and gained continuity. (using a mulitmeeter to test) 4. disconnected the pos wire from the battery to make sure there was no continuity when the ignition is off. 5. reconnected 12v to make sure continuity was not restored which it wasnt 6. pressed the button on the remote and continuity was restored. This was to simulate the car being parked and turned off and no continuity to either the dist or the ign switch. In my uneducated test above it worked as desired. This is basically just a modern spin on a toggle kill switch, the benefit is that the device can be buried so deep that it cant be found. Simply push the button on the key fob and continuity is restored without reaching for a hidden switch. now what im worried about. The device is a small circuit board with micro relay on it. the relay is rated at 12v 10 amp. If i use this on the dist wire will that handle the current the whole time the car is running? If i use it on the ignition switch will 10 amp be enough? im assuming the draw while cranking is higher than 10 amps.
  2. take the headrest to an upholstery shop and have them cut them down.
  3. came across this... but also got me thinking that its nearly the year 2020 , i thought by the year 2000 we were all supposed to have jet packs. well i dont have my jet pack do you? but i do have a smart phone and its capable of amazing things. now i need someone smarter than my self to shoot holes in this theory for me or confirm it. leaning back towards the kill switch basically all that needs to be done is to be able to cut the signal to the stater or dist??? i did a interwebs search for 12v bluetooth enabled relay and there are tons of options. so then it should be possible to hide this so deep behind the dash it cant be seen or anywhere else and use your phone to turn on/off this relay which is the kill switch correct? This eliminates the worry of having to have a switch that you can reach to manually turn on or off. disclaimer i am not smart on electronics or technology thats why i am asking if this can be picked apart. there are some obvious liabilities that will have to be accepted. 1 you lose your phone and cant activate the switch 2 the battery dies 3 no idea of the electrical draw of these devices but should be able to connect it to a cell phone type power bank that charges as you drive 4 thief can still open the hood and use a jump wire. but as seen above a locking hood release cable is possible. 5 security will you be able to prevent others from connecting their phone to it? here is an example of specs for one of these devices. Capacity:12V With this Bluetooth 4.0 BLE relay, you can control some electronic devices through your iPhone or Android phone. This will make your project more interesting.It comes with a protective shell.The shell is effective in blocking dust and static electricity. Specification: Built-in DSD TECH SH-HC-08 Bluetooth 4.0 BLE module supports iOS devices(iPhone and iPad) and Android 4.3 and later devices. Equipped with 12V, 10 A / 250 V AC; 10 A / 30 VDC relay, the relay has long service life and can absorb 100,000 times continuously. Control distance up to 10m (open space environment) Bluetooth 4.0 BLE specification Module operating voltage(VCC):DC 12 v DC control maximum voltage: DC 30 v Switching control maximum voltage: AC 250 v Maximum load power: 600W About APP: For Android : please search "DSD TECH Bluetooth" in the Google Play. For iOS Devices (iPhone or iPad):please search "DSD TECH Bluetooth" in the Appstore. Precautions: 1,This Bluetooth relay is Bluetooth 4.0 specification and is not compatible with any Bluetooth 2.0 SPP device. 2, the maximum load power should not exceed 600W. The relay may be damaged when the load exceeds 600W. 3, This Bluetooth relay uses the Bluetooth 4.0 BLE protocol. The encrypted connection is not enabled. It is not applicable to applications that require data security. Control instruction(Hexadecimal format): Channel 1 ON: A00101A2 Channel 1 OFF: A00100A1 Channel 2 ON: A00201A3 Channel 2 OFF: A00200A2 Channel 3 ON: A00301A4 Channel 3 OFF: A00300A3 Channel 4 ON: A00401A5 Channel 4 OFF: A00400A4
  4. here is what came on my 73 Mach1 the car has been in the family since 76 so i am certain these are the originals. I also have the poly glass spare tire and the same markings are there. I could part with these if someone needs them for a restoration.
  5. I have a set of original 14" steel wheels with hub caps. I just could not stand the 14 inch pizza cutters anymore I have been looking at them since 1976. Ok maybe not since 1976 since I was 2 years old but certainly by 1979 I was aware of them lol. they do clear the front disc brakes.
  6. Good ideas by everybody. I like the non traditional or mainstream approach. hard to beat a system quickly if you have never seen it. In the End i know its only one flat bed from being taken but i dont intend on leaving it anywhere long enough for that to happen.
  7. Good idea but i dont wanna lift the hood every time i park.
  8. Agreed if they want it they will get it. Im more worried about the opportunistic thief that wants to hop in and take a joy ride. Interesting idea with Hydraulic locks are they manually operated or are they controlled with a solenoid and a key fob? I used to have the grant removable steering wheel kit on a daily driver but i gave up on it and walking around with steering wheel got annoying.
  9. Any one running a hidden kill switch or anything as a security measure? Car is finally getting to the point i can take it out to run errands etc.... I try to always stay within eye shot but that can be annoying or just not possible sometimes. Im thinking a hidden kill switch would give me a little confidence that it wont be driven away within 60 seconds and used in an epic police chase. :chin: If not a kill switch what are you using?
  10. the ole hot start issue lol for me i dreaded stopping for gas unless it was a splash and go. people would comment nice car etc.... then i would get in and cross my fingers it would start. man i think everyone has suffered from it and has somehow figured it out but its different for each car. for me i started with a spacer under the carb , made sure the hard fuel line was as far away from the engine as possible which isnt very far. when that failed to correct the issue i started replacing ignition parts because nothing had been touched since the 90s on this car. points, condenser and a coil did nothing either. i was just about ready to try a high torque mini starter when my radiator sprung a leak. for some odd reason replacing the radiator made the issue 90% better.
  11. Had an oh poop moment this morning when a truck in front of me stopped hard to make a left turn. Brakes worked and then a pop feeling in pedal and no brakes..... i was able step on then ebrake to get stopped and finish my journey home. Starting looking up parts and master cylinder needs replacing for sure but while I have tools out I'd like to install new calipers, rotors and pads. I'm not finding anything beyond "daily driver" parts. I did find the willwood kit but at $500+ and so so reviews thats not promising. For comparison for my sons elcamino I can get calipers, slotted rotors and pads for around $250. Is there anything comparable out there for our cars?
  12. I'm just glad I dont have to duck in embarrassment when it doesn't start at the gas pump lol. On to the next issue that should show its head any second now.
  13. Here is an update for anyone that might Google this having the same issue. Disclaimer what I'm about to say makes no sense but its observations in my particular case. Recently got back on this csr after letting it sit for a while. Life happens. The major thing was u finally got it registered and insured so I could start driving it more I stead of quick trips through back roads for fun. I was still fighting with the hot start issue but had learned to live with it. I made it a habbit of taking at least 30 min before starting the car. You know how hard it is to waste 30 min at a gas station lol. Anyway with all the driving I had been doing the radiator sprung a leak. I went ahead and replaced it with a champion aluminum one from Jegs. Not expecting anything except no more leak i went back to driving it around to run errands etc... I made a quick run to the parts store to pick up some dry sweep and just on a whim I decided to try and start the car even though it had only been off a few minutes. To my surprise it fired right up. Next a quick run to a gas station on the way home. Put my usual $20 in and called it good. Fuel gauge is inop so I just make it a habit of putting fuel in it everytime I go out. Again I was sure it was gonna have the hot start issue. Turned the key and wow it fired right up again and has been doing so ever since the new radiator. Now I've been working on cars long enough that I would laugh at anyone telling me they replaced the radiator and their car starts better. But I'm guessing now that with the old radiator the car was always just on the verge of overheating despite a normal reading on the factory guage. This then lead to a heat soaked starter and caused the hard start.. Another aluminum foil hat theory. The rad cap was bad and again the car built up heat and pressure but not enough to over heat. Instead it pressurized the system to the point the water pump impeller was unable to rotate and causing the hard start issue. I can't prove either one of those all I know is ever since I put in the new radiator the hard stsrt issue is gone. Ok feel free to laugh I sure am
  14. Would I rather? No thats why I'm here asking if anyone has successfully done this. If anything i think i would unbolt the door from the hinge before the fender. The way i nderstand it the door will have to come off anyway once the pins are removed.
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