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Tucaz520

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Everything posted by Tucaz520

  1. Thanks. Found my dads old chiltons maual from the 70s. Actually has some good info on setting the carb idle speeds and just saw that my idle is to high. Im gonna set everything back to where i started and go through the carb again.
  2. Im willing to bet there are more cars on the road without those parts then there are with so im not gonna go hunting them down. Not doing a full restoration here. Just want a reliable driver.
  3. Ok went back out and messed with it some more. Orginal vacuum hoses seem to be all in the wrong places. I connected vac advance hose and retarted the timing down to 8 Degrees and it so idled rack back down to 1000 rpm. Tightend the dist and hit the throttle and the timing jumped passed 30 degrees ran rough and backfired. Thinking the vacuum sorce the advance may be the wrong one. So down the rabbit hole i went. Turns out im missing a ported vacuum switch the threads into the water pump and has 3 lines attached to it a a speed check valve in line up to the vac advance. Numbers 1 and 6 in the pic.
  4. Unfortunately i dont. I do know the gears were switched 2 times over the life of the car. Im sure the last time it was modified to help with the daily commute so possibly it is geared for highway driving.
  5. With the car up to temp and me playing with the timing light when i shut it down it did diesel both with and without the vac advance hooked up. Should i leave the vac advance hooked up set the idle at 1000 rpm and adjust the timing to 16 degrees or less?
  6. I bumped the rpm up to around 2500 and the timing was at 25 degrees. Sorry no pic of thst one. Not enough hands. Next i hooked up the vac advance and the idle speed was 2000 RPM the timing was coming in at above 30 degrees Obviously bumping the rpm up to 2500 sent it way passed any degree markings.
  7. Next i raided the kids sidewalk chalk and filled in the numbers and other degree liines. Again im not sure of the proper procedure to set timing but this is what i did. With no vac advance hooked it idled at 1000 RPM and it stayed true to the 16 degree mark that was made when the engine was rebuilt.
  8. Ok disclaimer im not experianced in setting timing and the wonderful interwebs here has more info than is usefull and of course contradicts. So i just got some numbers and hopefully someone with more knowledge than me can chime in. First thing i did was slide under the car and by luck all the degree marls were right there at the bottom and easy for me to clean and mark. I did notice they were marked at 0 degrees and16 degrees already.
  9. Also snaped this pic after i shut it down. Notice the smoke\vapor coming from inside the carb. Is that solid proof of percolation?
  10. Ok moved the fuel line and same results. Next up timing which will be a chore to figure out since the vac advance hasnt been hooked up ever since the rebuild around 1992. A little history on the car again. My dad owned it since 1976. 1992 ish he took it in for a rebuild on the engine. While apart he had the shop install a mild cam. He then used to to commute from Sierra Vista Az to Douglas Az daily 50 miles each way. I may have exaggerated that distance in an erlier post but hey i was a kid and it felt wayyyyyyyy further lol. When the car is on the road it does seem to lack power on the lower end but runs and idles strong. When on the highway it absolutely screems. 60mph-100nph makes me grin from ear to ear. Accelerating from a California roll say 20mph-50mph make me wanna hide my face as it seems to take forever to get there. Im thinking with the long commute the timing was set at the advacnce mark. The vacuum disconnected and plugged. I checked everyrhing out and applied a vacuum and everything works as it should. Stay tuned as i iet it cool, clean an mark the balancer and see what my timing is set at.
  11. Thanks for the input. The car does seem to run a little hot even thought the guage doesnt show it. I do still have the metal fuel line that runs along the front of the engine. Im going to start there and see if i can get some distance between the block and the fuel line and then check the timing. I miss spoke earlier about no mods i forgot about a rebuild which included a mild cam and because of that the timing may have been changed. Once i check the timing and fuel line ill look into carb spacer. Anypne have a source for those?
  12. Here we go. Another hot start thread lol could use some opinions. 351c 2V no modifications Car starts immediately when cold and runs great. Runs good and strong when warm as well. The problem comes when i shut it off. If i wait less than say 10 seconds after shut off it will fire right back up in an instant. If i wait longer than that say a couple minutes up to about 15-20 i have to keep the pedall to the floor while cranking. The starter sounds strong for the first few seconds then slowly gets weaker. I would estimate it takes 5-8 seconds to start. Right before it starts the battery seems to be getting week. The car does diesel when shut down from time to time. I rebuilt the carb and am waiting to road test it to see if the dieseling has been solved. My thoughts Since the starter sounds strong at first i dont think its a heat sink issue. I started to think fuel was getting sucked into the combustion chamber and draining the bowl. But it will fire immediately afterit cools. so i dont think the bowl is getting emptied. Still have points ignition and a coil thats probably from 1999 if not older lol. Id really like to pinpoint the problem rather than start throwing parts at it. I know it will all have to be replaced anyway but id still like to know what the issues is incase it returns. Im down to 2 thoughts 1 it is sucking fuel after shut down and flooding 2 weak spark because of old components.
  13. Hello everyone New to to forum and i keep finiding contradicting word on the pertronix system. Im just getting started on a 351c 2v. I would like to upgrade to electronic ignition and keep everything under the same cap. I do have the factory tach and would like to keep that operational. For now the car us just going to be a driver with performance upgrades much further down the road. Im thinking the contradicting word is coming from diffrences in pertronix systems and versions. Do any of the current sytems work without digging into the dash to keep factory tach?
  14. Thanks for the warm welcome. No pics of the lady next time i let her out of the garage ill snap a few. Shes not that pretty right now. She originally came in blue i remember her getting the solid yellow treatment somewhere around 1979ish no stripes or anything. I guess my dad was goung for the gone in 60 seconds look. She stayed that color for a good number of years until my dad retired from the Army. His wife at the time suprised him with a midnight blue paint job complete with 71-72 stripe package in 1992ish. As she sits now there are hints of all those paintjobs here and there. Shes also sitting on some rock hard tires that were biyght somewhere around 1993 with whitewalls lol. Back at that tine it was all function not fashion since it was used to commute 100+miles a day. She is rust free except for on small spot in the trunk.
  15. Tucaz520

    New guy

    Hello everybody I ve had a 73 Mach1 in the family since 76. My dad owned it an drove it as a daily most of its life. Due to life events i had to take ownership around 2007-ish. At that tine it had been siiting for 5 years. My dad though it skipped timing and didnt have the time to mess with it. I hauled it home from Tucson AZ to San Diego. Seeing how i wanted this car ever since i could remember i tore right into it a found it was just a faulty fuel pump. Put it on the road for a bit and had some fun. Then my work schedule took over and my son then 7 discovered dirt bikes. The car then entered another dark period of storage. A cross country move didnt help things and the weekend trips to ride dirt bikes in the desert turned into racing. If you race anything you know that all other things take a back seat. She sat and started to weep, she became a shelf for all things in the garage. You name it it was piled in top of the hood, roof and even the back glass. Once a year i would pull her out top off fluids and do donuts in the undeveloped subdivision. Once again work pulled me away and so did dirtbike racing. That was the darkest 4 years for her. I am back now. The son is 16 and making his own money for racing. I recently retired from the Marine Corps, now i have time, more time than money but thats ok im not building a show car here. I wasted no time being her back to life. Like a neglected girl being shown some attention she perked right up and has been loving the attention. Shes now a woman scorn and making me pay for the years of abandonment. My first attempt at regaining her trust was to rebuild the carb as she leaked fuel from the accelerator pump and refused to be quiet when i turned her key off. Shes being a little stubborn about it though. She loves to run but gives me trouble restarting when hot. A litte twist here and tap there and lots of hands on and she is starting to come around. Next i turned my attention to her underside as she was leaking PS fluid,trand fluid and even her diff had a little drip. Got the pitman seal replaced and dry as a bone only to be shown shes still bitter and leaked fluid from the back side of the gear box. The diff seal will be an easy fix but he trans is proving to be a bit difficult as 2 shops have turned me away saying they dont wanna touch it. The leak is the shift shaft seal on an FMX. Thats about where me and her sit right now. Ill keep showing her affection and tending to her leaky areas until she stops weeping. Once she does ill be able to dress her up a bit and take her on the town to show her off. About the only thing she needs on the inside is door panels and headliner. I have the door parts just wating to be dyed. The headliner is in possession also but removing the front and rear glass doesnt sound like something i want to handle.
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