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tndt1

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Everything posted by tndt1

  1. UPDATE-- I got the Boss 302 with screwin freese plugs but it only has an Edelbrock 650 4 bbl. If I just do a basic swap with my C-4 tranny an 9" 273 rear end will it work? Improve performance?
  2. Thanks all, the reason I asked: I did a favor for someone and he offered me this Boss 302. He built it for someone else and they reneged on the deal so my friend reclaimed the engine. (the engine was paid for) Supposedly the engine was Dinoed and driven for approx 500 mi.
  3. If I install a Boss 302 with dual quads in my standard basic 73 convert with a C-4 tran with a 9" 273 rear end. Will it work or will I blow everything out?
  4. do you know what the two electrical connections on the passenger side of the octopus are for one appears to be yellow and the other light green
  5. Well...... I blew it all out, checked all the actuatiors checked the incoming vacuume off the manifold (ok) and stil no change. It still won't shut off in the off position (goes to defrost) slight heat through all the vents with the slector in the "cold " Position, A/C blowing "cool" air. (System charged fully) Checked the electrical on the blower motor ristior. and that was ok, any more ideas???P.S. I guess I screwed up this time I switch the two wires alongside the octopus, blew a fuse, I replace the fuse, and now the blower won't work??????????
  6. What a great response. thank you so much it'll be awhile before I can reply I've got a lot of testing you give lol.
  7. Hi all; I have a 73 Convert with a 302 and A/C. Problem: when I turn the selector to off, the air is directed up through the defrost. (And seems stronger) Also I have no vacuume on the Biack & purple line coming out of the firewall to the "dohicky"on the heater hose. I also feel heat coming out of the floor, with the selector on cold, Any help???????
  8. 1973 wilbonton white on white on white Ford convertible, Deluxe interior F code
  9. Thanks DJ, I think thats exactly what I'll do, go to Midas. \Ted
  10. Hi Guys, I have a 1973 Convertible that I drive almost every day. The car jumps and I almost loose control when I hit a bad pothole Should I get all four done at the same time? I really only think I need the fronts. There a so many choices out there I am having a hard time deciding what to buy. I'm pretty sure I dont want adjustiable shocks cause I wouldnt know how to adjust them anyway. Any help would be appriciated Ted .
  11. The values I gave were indeed TEMPERATURE readings . I took them with an infered temp gun and pointed it at the wires at the end of the spark plug. I really dont know why I took them I just did on a lark I have no idea what they mean. OK back to the timing, I did some testing today, I ran the car at 6-8* ATDC with the vacuum line connected, No ping, and the car ran ok, some loss of power but fine for running around town. Then I ran the car with the timing set at 6-8* BTDC with the vacuum line connected and it ran fine but had alot of pinging under load Finnaly I ran the car at 6-8*BTDC without the vacuum connected and it ran fine with no pinging. I then checked the Mech advance and ran the engin up to 3100 RPM without the vacuum connected and got a 12-14* advance I then checked it with the vacuum connected and the timing advanced toped at 40* at 2200RPM And ideas fellas??? Ted PS Thanks Chuck for all your help
  12. Hey all thanks for the reply, I checked the timing marks against the tdc on the compression stroke of #1, and found that the pointer showed aprox 6-8* after tdc. about the same spot I have the timing set now (No ping) I would guess that the balancer had shifted huh? Additional clues: I replaced the timing chain and gears about 6 mons ago so I know there not worn. I replaced the drivers side head gasket and the distributor about 9 mos ago due to a leak between cyls 7 & 8 On a lark I checked the temp of all the cyls at the plug, I found some diffrences they are #1 170 #2 200 #3 180 #4 170 #5 240 #6 230 #7 140 ?? #8 130?? Could this mean I have another prob with #'s 7 & 8?? Im gonna run the stang like this for awhile and see if anything else pops up Thanks guys Ted
  13. Hey everyone, a new problem has occured with my 302 2v that I have never heard of. I had a problem with overheating and a "Ping" when the engin got hot. I fixed the overheating prob by changing out the radiator and putting in a 190* thermostat. My timing was set at 8-10* BTC and the car would run pretty good untill it got up to operating temp, then it started to get a terreiable "Ping" I retarted the timing to TDC and the pinging was less, So on a lark I set itabout 15-20* AFTER TDC and the ping has stopped. I dont have much power but it seems to be running ok. I tried to time the dist by sound and also by vacume, both were between 6-25* BTC and it still was pinging real bad. The carb seems to be adjusted ok too. The only other clue I have is when I time the dist by ear the RPM increases and I can not adjust the carb anywhere below 1000 rpm. I'm about my wits end, any ideas?? how much am I hurting my engin?
  14. A repo trunk Lid at CJ Pony, is $135 and that includes shipping. Saves alot of time and effort
  15. First let me thank all of you who have offered suggestions on the Overheating prob on my 73 Vert v2. I had tried self flushing the radiator, changing thermostats, re-tuneing, and my last hope was to pull the heads and change the head gaskets. On a lark I called our local radiator shop to check on the price of having the radiator boiled out, ($65). The lady asked me if it was overheating above or below 45mph. I said that I really had no problem driving around town but the minute I took it on the hwy it shot up to 230-250 degrees. when I brought it back down to 30-40mph it seemed to cool down some. She told me the radiator was clogged and to bring it in. After they examanded it they found that it was more than 3/4 clogged and it was not repairable. She couldnt replace it and suggested one of the Mustang parts houses. I called CJ Pony and ordered a new one for $300 which included shipping. I installed it today and took it on a short trip down the freeway (about 40 miles) and the temp never got above 205 (195 degree thermo) same around town , it stayed twix 195 and 205 I am a happy camper! I hope someone else finds this info helpful Ted
  16. OK guys, I talked with a radiator guy today and we pulled the radiator for purging and redoing. I hope this fixes both the overheating and the pre-ignition problem, I will let you all know
  17. I didn't want to bring it up yet but, what TommyK suggested is a possibility. No insult to the installer intended. Chuck I guess that is a very real possiblity, the guy that put it in for me is an "OLD" shade tree mech. He has rebuilt many engines esp Mustangs. who knows??????? Thanks Chuck and everyone else that has replied Ted
  18. Thanks for the Ideas Chuck, I have no idea where or what the OVS is or if it's operational, all the smog and orginal air cleaner have been removed. I changed the rt side head gasket because there was a leak between the #7 & #8 cyl. I dont know if the car was overheating prior to changing the HG, but I never noticed. I changed to the 190 thermostat because the auto zone guy told me that that was the correct one, The timing at idle is on the 1st mark. I removed the vacume line and plugged it and increased the rpm to about 4000 rpm the timing went past the middle mark and almost to the 3rd mark. The shroud is in place and the lower hose is fine when it's hot. when I Changed the HG I also flushed out the radiator, got alot of crap out of it and with only water in it it stayed pretty clean. I run a 50/50 antifreeze mix. If I remember correctly, the damper is indexed from 10 degrees ATDC to 30 degrees BTDC in 2 degree increments. Longer marks every 10 degrees with a number (10,20,30). The shorter marks in between the are not numbered and occur every 2 degrees. When you say "mark" you mean the long ones with a number, it sounds like the timing may be retarded a lot. That would make it run hot. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you said. Did it run hot after changing the head gasket or after you changed the thermostat? Chuck Hey Chuck I Just rechecked the timing and it is set on 10btc Hey, No butterfly , headers
  19. Hey Chuck, I taught Air Traffic Control here in Biloxi for 17 yrs 21 if you count my time as a military Instructor, I also taught the same at the FAA Academy in OKC Ted
  20. Thanks for the Ideas Chuck, I have no idea where or what the OVS is or if it's operational, all the smog and orginal air cleaner have been removed. I changed the rt side head gasket because there was a leak between the #7 & #8 cyl. I dont know if the car was overheating prior to changing the HG, but I never noticed. I changed to the 190 thermostat because the auto zone guy told me that that was the correct one, The timing at idle is on the 1st mark. I removed the vacume line and plugged it and increased the rpm to about 4000 rpm the timing went past the middle mark and almost to the 3rd mark. The shroud is in place and the lower hose is fine when it's hot. when I Changed the HG I also flushed out the radiator, got alot of crap out of it and with only water in it it stayed pretty clean. I run a 50/50 antifreeze mix.
  21. It is a 5 blade fan w/o a clutch Have you checked temps at the top and bottom hoses for actual temps? to rule out the gauge and make sure the radiator is doing No I haven checked the actual temps yet, but I know that its very hot LOL
  22. I tried to post a pic but it didnt go through
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