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Ballaratcastle

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Everything posted by Ballaratcastle

  1. Hi all Thought I would thank everyone who has helped me with my project so far. Had no knowledge where everything went on my muzzy and especially wish to thank Don for answering a lot of my stupid questions. The car is coming along and I am racing the clock to have her 90% finished and certified and on the road for our annual "NZ Beach Hop" classic/muscle car gathering. She is nearly fully drivable. Initial rebuild startup overheating issues hopefully sorted. Exhaust done, Windscreen being done at the moment. A few bits to bolt on and off for compliance. Mach 1 graphics done. Bonnet graphic width done according to the experts on here (2 inches from bonnet strip to pin stripe not 3, 2 inches either side of bonnet bulge!) Only thing left to sort via help from you guys is some photos showing how the weatherstripping and sunvisors attach around the windshield fittings. Attached are some photos of the car.
  2. The hose going from the washer tank to the hood is in with the wires going over the LH shock tower to the firewall. Then goes and has a plastic nipple and plugs into the short hose hanging out of the yellow hood I posted. Awesome thanks so much
  3. Thanks everyone The photos will be helpful for setting up the nozzles. I will google some engine bays of Mach 1's to see where the best place to run the tube from the washer bottle now. Regards Steve
  4. Thanks guys. I was googling engine bay images but the original engines with the big blue aircleaners tended to obscure the fitting. That fitting was one of the few things left in the engine bay when I got the car. I had searched window washer on the forums but not a lot came up. As the aircleaner and set up is now different (my vacuum lines are all bigger and plumbed into the carb) I guess this fitting isn't needed. I did buy an OEM looking washer tank and the hose kit so I'll hunt for pictures of the washer set up. Cheers
  5. Hi team. There is a small plastic fitting screwed just above the firewall. I’m not sure if it is for the window washer system or for a vacuum tube of some sort. The car came with no washer bottle pump or lines or even nozzles. I’ve purchased the kits new but have no idea of the plumbing routing of the tubes. The nozzles I have ordered mount somewhere on the bonnet I understand not the grille in front of the windscreen
  6. Hi team. My car came with two new sports mirrors to replace an old chrome one that was on the drivers side only. It has two small holes close together with a square cut out between them. As the sports mirror has holes further apart I'm not sure where to place the mirror. Do I use the rear hole and punch drill the front one further forward or use the front hole drilling one further back .can someone please take a measurement from the front edge of their door to the first screw hole or better still if someone has the correct measurements please. I couldn't find anything online googling it. I also have no idea how to mount the small brass inserts. Cheers Steve
  7. That's odd that the new sender unit did not come with a lock ring and new gasket. What brand did you get? I checked Rock Auto for 71-73 Mustang sending units and they are again listing an INCORRECT part for our cars. They list Spectra Premium FG87A. This is the one I originally bought and the tube faces the WRONG WAY!!! In my case I was able to return it and exchange for the Dorman 692232, which is stainless steel, brass float. Unfortunately they no longer list this one. The only other one is SS, but out o stock. However they are supplied with lock rings and gaskets as yours should have been. I would make sure the one you bought is stainless steel, brass float with a good filter screen. If not take it back and buy a better one. The Ford part number is D1ZF-9275-AB (on the one I have). You will likely need to calibrate it as well. Use 5 gallons in an empty tank and adjust the float so it reads a 1/4 tank. Mine only showed 1/8th, so I needed to bend the float arm slightly downward. The trick is to jack up the left side until the sender can be removed without spilling gas all over the place. Then recheck it. It's a PITA,, but I like to know when I'm getting to a 1/4 tank. Here's a pic of the wrong part, just for reference. I have no idea what this is actually for, but as most Ford's have the fuel lines on the driver side, it is either for a tank with a center location or on the right hand side. I'm showing this so others won't buy this part. I'll also contact Rock Auto and point this out again! Hi Here is a link to the one I purchased from CJ Pony Parts. It says does not come with locking ring but it did come with the rubber gasket. It does have the brass float but I have seen some feedback saying the plastic is better as the brass one fills with fuel??? Cant call it a float then! LOL https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-fuel-sending-unit-with-plastic-float-1971-1973/p/FSU33/
  8. Thanks guys. It look like I'm a little too far past 6oclock position where both your photos seem to indicate. The new sender didn't come with a new locking ring therefore I did use the old one but put a bit of grease on the back of it to try and stop it grabbing the sender but I did see it turn past. I shall try again
  9. Awesome thanks Don. I thought the photo of the other bit had loaded but it appears not. I'll try again
  10. Hi I have just fitted my new fuel sender inserting the tabs in the slots but even with s bit of grease on the locking ring it turned the sender clockwise a little bit. Is this alignment ok for the pickup and float to work correctly?
  11. Hi guys Need help identifying these parts please. Came with car but in a box of parts. Doesn't appear to be my missing C4 linkage to gear lever or a kick down lever as it's way too long. Also this small thing with wheels. Is it from the window mechanism? I only have one if it is. Mmm. If the photos don't show up its because I have trouble loading them from my phone the system doesn't work properly
  12. Hi guys Need help identifying these parts please. Came with car but in a box of parts. Doesn't appear to be my missing C4 linkage to gear lever or a kick down lever as it's way too long. Also this small thing with wheels. Is it from the window mechanism? I only have one if it is. Mmm. If the photos don't show up its because I have trouble loading them from my phone without wireless connection.
  13. Hi guys. As mentioned I took the rotors to a bearing specialist who took all the measurements and they were the same size and took the identical bearings The new Mustang calipers from the USA not the Aussie falcon ones. The calipers do fit but are tight due to new pads. And I've ordered the new kit from the US as well. If the calipers won't fit with the new rubber boots kit it will be new rotors.
  14. Hi Yes the complete set is way cheaper from the US even with our low $$ than buying even Aussie falcon parts here. I was given a set of new XA rotors as the owner had tried them on his 60s mustang and they didn't fit. I checked them against my old rotors and took them to a bearings wholesale company who measured everything and supplied the new bearings. I have put them on the car recently,however the split pin would not fit when the stainless cover went over the nut. They would just fit without this cover/keeper. The calipers were a tight squeeze to fit too and I had to rubber mallet them onto the disc so I am a little worried when the rubber grommets/covers are added if they will still fit. I had the nuts machined down slightly so the split pin would fit with the stainless keeper attached.
  15. Hi Stevo. No the car was just a rolling shell. Dash in but no motor. Old rotors and brake calipers were on but when I had to replace the whole front assembly I just unbolted the calipers without paying attention as the rubber boot things (what you circled) were missing and the bolts were caked in grease and brake dust. I just noticed one of the shields wasn't on one of the calipers. They had all the clips on though. Cheers Steve
  16. Have just ordered the kit and two sets of bolts from Rock Auto for only $33 usd (includes postage) so that's awesome. Hemi Killer was correct the freight was only $9.99 I do have the old bolts but as new ones were only $2.50 a set and have the fresh loc tite on them. Thanks so much guys. I had been searching the replacement parts on CJ Pony but wsa having no luck. Cheers Steve
  17. Awesome thsnks. No I know what to look for. Yes those rubber boots are definately missing .thank you for the links
  18. Hi from a fellow N. Z.'er ( now Aussi ) I had a similar problem with these plates all bent out of shape. You can get what I recall is known as a " disc brake re-build kit ". It will ( should ) have the two cover plates plus all new bolts, the rubber anti - rattle grommets and some other bits I can't remember. It's not expensive and will give you all new stuff. Try that Mustang Centre in Ch. Ch. ( used to be in Auck but sold out to these guys ) I have a September Petrolhead mag which has a 'phone number of 03 3813 289. If you don't have any success, come back and I'll point you to a couple of Aussi suppliers with stock code numbers, prices etc. Good work on this job of yours. Nearly as challenging as Fabrice. PKJ Cheers mate I had only priced one part (trunk drop panel) previously through the CHCH crowd but for a $14 USD part they wanted $100 nzd plus freight so got it sent to a colleagues hotel in the US and he chucked it in his suitcase. I'll price the kit from there but I see Hemikiller has posted some links to Rock Auto so I'll see what the US prices are. Thanks for replying to my post. Yep first car project do am floundering a bit trying to get it ready and complied before Beach Hop end of March. Hopefully engine startup end of this week. Cheers Steve
  19. I have replaced the old calipers on my car but when I took the old calipers off only one side had the metal shield thing attached to the caliper. (not the disc shield) I am not sure what they actually do and if I need to buy a replacement one or can go without on both sides. Also I have been trying to find a diagram break down of the parts as I have seen on some photos of the calipers the bolts that hold them to the bracket have a long skinny rod that pokes through but on the photos is shows some extra cap or cover thing. Mine didnt have them. I presume the calipers may have been taken off during the partial resto in the USA but not put back on properly after and the parts are missing. Would anyone have a photo of the front disc bolts or assembly pieces needed. Cheers Steve
  20. Thanks I can also see the bar that is not attached to my roof frame but cant quite read the number. I think it is 51278 or 5127B so the bolts that fit it to the frame I am not sure what to source. Obviously they are a bolt that is able to allow that bar to pivot. Cheers Steve If you double click the image it will open the image I hi resolution. The number is 51278. That is the rear bow. Cheers I was zooming in on my phone. I'll check when at home and print off on the main computer. I am still not sure what type of fasteners the bow needs
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