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Everything posted by Ballaratcastle

  1. Thanks I can also see the bar that is not attached to my roof frame but cant quite read the number. I think it is 51278 or 5127B so the bolts that fit it to the frame I am not sure what to source. Obviously they are a bolt that is able to allow that bar to pivot. Cheers Steve
  2. Thank you guys. There is one wrecker here in NZ who has recently wrecked a 72 convertible. I have contacted the previous owner re the missing parts (also trying to source the shift lever C4 to gear shifter) and he thinks the guy he paid to strip the car 5 years ago has recently found a box of parts possibly from my car. Carolina Mustangs. (Sorry wasn't sure of your name) Thanks I will contact you as soon as I know as I am having trouble sourcing the gear shifter in NZ as the wrecked convertible here had an FMX not a C4 so the shifter rod is different. Cheers Steve
  3. Hi all I have just fitted the new pump and rams to my convertible however I think a bracket is possibly missing. Car was imported unfinished. Prev owner had roof frame powdercoated so I presumed all the bits were back on. I came to fit the new rams (supplied with the car) and there seems to only be one lug to fit them to. When I tested the mechanism one ram keeps popping off. I presume there should be a small bracket with a lug to fit in the other hole in the ram to hold it secure but there isn't one. There is a part of the main frame with threaded holes like a bracket should bolt on there. Any suggestions team. Also I have a loose frame/bar that must bolt to the frame (I believe it threads through the roof above the back window, but I have no idea of the pivoting fasteners it may need. Cheers Steve
  4. Thank you I'm back at the factory tomorrow so will have a look. Cheers
  5. I am sure the bulb/socket in pic #3 is not the courtesy light. I will investigate further or hopefully, someone else might recognize it. The one in pic #2 is definitely a courtesy light fixture. The plastic sides on it are broken off which is a common problem, but it should still work. With the seatbelts, it is common to disable them. It's a ground activated system so just unplugging the wire from the retractor will disable the system. Removing the wire harness is overkill. If you don't have the wires or the pressure sensor under the passenger seat then the seatbelt warning light and warning buzzer are also not needed. The thing on the gauge panel PC (printed circuit board) is not actually a relay, but a (constant) voltage regulator. It attaches to the PC (printed circuit board). I can see that yours and mine are in different places on the PC. I know the PCs are different for car's with center console Alt, Oil and Temp gauges than cars without (only indicator lights). So I suspect your car originally did not come with the center gauges Either way without it, your fuel gauge and other gauges if you have them will not work properly. These regulators do go bad over time and repro's are available. Thanks again. Yes my cluster only has the warning lights. I have bought an after market gauge console and 3 digital gauges but they will be independently wired. I have no idea that the electrics will work until I connect it all up to start the engine. The car supposedly was a runner before being pulled apart 5 years ago. I never moved the circuit board off the cluster so I will check closely for a lug to stick it on. I should have taken a photo
  6. Thank you. The photos with the numbered identifiers is really valuable. I have accounted for all the switch lights which are black bulb holders but the small white one in my photo must be for the courtesy light. Not sure where the bulb and socket has gone for the passenger side. I will go searching. I had not unplugged in the seat belt warning light plug when I removed the dash but it appears I don't have any wires or plug where the retractable seat belts bolt in. With the relay on the gauge panel can you confirm it presses onto a lug on the back of the panel itself. In my photo I couldn't see one. Cheers Steve
  7. Hi team Hopefully you can assist identifying these under my dash please. I have just put the dash back in and have connected up all the plugs I had labelled but have a few unidentified ones that were tucked behind the glove box and as they aren't labelled I wouldn't have unplugged them but would be handy to know if I'm missing something important. I also stupidly didn't take a photo of where the small boxy thing on the gauge panel screws to .it's connected to the green circuit board on the back but is just flopping around. Sorry having issues loading photos. They are in the reply below. I also have this one lamp holder with no home. Cheers Steve
  8. Thanks Don. My engine is actually a 1974 too I just realised and might even be slightly taller. I actually think their jig when they make the headers is out as all the forums say they tend to only hit on the driver's side .There was 1/2 inch clearance on the passenger side. The flange / collector also looks like it is angled inwards from the other side
  9. Cheers mate. Will take too long to source replacement bring half way around the world from the best source of parts at reasonable prices.. lol. We have to rely on kiwi ingenuity to make things work! (Not mine though!) Ha ha
  10. Well, the 302 is a Windsor! OK - but that begs the question: is a 351W basically a bored & stoked 302, or something different (as in, the block is somewhat different to accommodate the greater displacement)? I honestly don't know - never been worried about anything but the 351C that mine came with, so I'm not exactly up-to-snuff on other engine trivia. The heads are what dictates the header fitment - someone with a set of Cleveland heads should be using a set of Cleveland headers, then chase the other issues that come with the engine mount height and block dimensions - i.e., Clevelor engines (which I'm sure is not the case here). Aside from that, gotta determine if the block dimensions differ significantly enough to create the header fitment issues he's running into. I think Don C's response above speaks to that. Yes a definately height difference in the blocks weteeen the 302 and 352 Windsor's. When I was sent photos of the engine by the seller he wasn't sure what it was but from googling how to tell the difference apart from comparing measurements of a 302 & 352 side by side, the quickest way was if you could get to the lower bolt on the thermostat housing with a socket it's a 351 if you can only get to it with a ring spanner it's a 302. You right in one aspect that the 351c came out in the 71-73s that I know if however the advertising on the hookers specifically said they would fit the 289 up to the 351w for stangs up to 73. In fact the wrecked donor grande here in NZ I got parts from had a 351w in it as I scored the correct power steering bracket. At the end of the day I'm just going to have to make the ones I bought fit either by cutting the flanges off or cutting and having them modified to bend down more
  11. Ditto. Since '71-'73s didn't come with Windsors, could that be the issue? I know they came with 302s, but I'm pretty sure there's not a 'one-size-fits-all' solution for 302s ranging from '64-'73. Hi Tony. Yes its a 74 windsor originally out of a galaxy according to the numbers. My 73 vert numbers come back to a 302, so someone in the states dropped it in some time ago. It had rusty headers that came with the car but I have no idea how well they fitted as the engine arrived separately on a pallet as it was taken out the car 5 yrs ago when the car had panel work done in the US. I understand Hooker make different headers for the Cleveland as the ones I bought said would fit a 289/302/351W only and there were separate ones advertised to fit a cleveland which I have been told is a wider block than the windsor. I should have googled them first and I would have seen all the problems people were having trying to fit them to a 351W. Cheers Steve
  12. Cheers mate Spoke to my mechanic tonight over a beer and he said the same thing. As my motor and box have been rebuilt he suggested I get the flange/collectors cut off when I take the car to get the exhaust done (arrived in NZ with no exhaust) and just sleeve the new pipes over the end of the headers and don't weld them. I cant recall the exact term he used where the pipes just slide over the end of the headers and clamp.
  13. Hi team I purchased some hooker competition headers (painted but not ceramic coated) from CJ Pony parts where their advertising says they are made to fit 66-73 mustangs 302/351W engines. I an a newbie so took this as gospel. They got shipped to NZ and I have had major issues bolting them to the engine. The passenger side went on fine and there was about 1/2 inch clearance from the top of the flange (collector) bolt hole and the floor pan. Went to fit the drivers side passing them up from the bottom after unbolting the power steering box (my steering shaft was already out) and got them up to the heads. It was then an issue and I couldn't bolt them up because the collector was hitting the drivers floor pan. Tried loosening the mounts right off but still no play. Then had to disconnect the gearbox crossmember to allow the back of the engine to drop so I could then get a good face to the heads to get the bolts in. I know when I jack up the back of the gearbox to reattach the mount I wont be able to because they will hit. I then googled the issue and found it is a common issue as hooker haven't taken into account the extra deck height of the 351 over the 302. You would think this issue has been around for a long time and they would warn against this. Why do they also have the pointiest part of the flange at the top. They could have put the flattest part of the flange at the top and the bolt holes on the sides (eg rotate it around) One blogger contacted hookers technical dept and their answer was to bash the floor pan up.. gees when someone has spent thousands $$$ replacing floor pans and nice paint job top and bottom that's a bit amateurish. I also took my mount off to double check at a local mount shop who confirmed I had the low mount already and there is not much metal on those low mounts to elongate the hole any more plus the rubber is hard down on the cross member mount. Any suggestions who has overcome this issue. Other than bashing my floor pan up, I presume the only alternative is to cut the flanges off, turn them around and angle them down and reweld? Cheers Steve
  14. Cheers mate. I'll Google him but as I'm in New Zealand it makes it a bit tricky time and freight wise. I have most of my old loom and the donor one and everything looks the same except for that accessory wire having a different plug. The voltage regulator never arrived with the car either so lucky I grabbed the complete system from the other car
  15. Rather than do another post I'm also looking for the best spot to mount the electronic coil for the dizzy. It can't go on the motor like the standard coil so open to suggestions but gather as close to the dizzy to minimise the length of coil lead needed
  16. Thanks for the photos. I will check them closeqqly. Both theqq donor grqandqeq and my car only have a theqq idiot lights clusterr and no Aircon but my loom laid side by side is similar but my car didn't come with the regulator ??the bigger Box (in your photo)that sits under the starter solenoid or the other small black box that sits Infront of the washer bottle on the driver front apron so I have grabbed these from the grande. I have a work colleague who is an ex mechanic and very good with wiring who is coming to look at the car on Friday.
  17. Thank you so much. Yes my original lead has the yellow plug. Apologies I have tried to upload a photo but it will not save.. The one out of the Grande has a square T shape plug so maybe that was for the other functions you mentioned. I will reuse my original one I think. Mine does have a small relay attached at the termination point though and the yellow one from the Grande is definately connected to a battery terminal The male plugs for the yellow fitting must have fallen inside the kickpanel next to the foot brake. Cheers
  18. So team as mentioned in previous posts I imported an unfinished project 73 vert. Am completely bumbling my way thru the rebuild. The wiring looms on my car had just been cut and left unlabelled but I was lucky enough to find a donor 73 grande that had been sitting in a paddock for 12yrs and grab the front and rear looms labelling what I could (no engine so still couldn't label all the unidentified wires) I have just got to the point of rerunning the donor loom but there is a small difference between the single wire that runs thru the firewall separate from the main loom compared to the one that was in my car. My car had a thick black wire terminating I think at the battery with a small relay but the one out of the donor car terminates at the battery with a spade type connector. At the other end through the firewall they each have a different plug. Firstly can someone tell me what this separate is wire for please and why two different plugs. I haven't found the mate to my old wire yet as I may reuse my one. SORRY CANT SEEM TO UPLOAD IMAGES FOR SOME REASON WILL KEEP TRYING
  19. Hi John. The rear floor pans were done in the USA but each side was attached differently which was unusual. One side was spot welded and the other side was tack welded. The certifier here made me add spot welds to the tack welded side. The panel beater attaching my front assemblies was generally happy with them and the fit but said each side seemed to be slightly different lengths when they were lining things up. Another restorer I had phoned prior had only done some 60s models and he said the apron closest to the firewall had to be unpicked and adjusted but my 71-73 panels seemed to fit the firewall ok. He said it was a tough job to get evertything aligned but part of the issue was the firewall might have been slightly out of alignment from the historical impact as well. Hope this helps. Cheers Steve
  20. Thanks. I showed my Mechanic last night who also didn't recommend wrapping. They have the black heat coating on them which will have to do then as budget blown and can't afford the coating here in NZ. Cheers
  21. Sorry for the dumb arse question but I purchased some 351W Hooker headers for my car and have just unboxed them to put exhaust wrap on them before installing when I noticed an extra tube bit on one of the headers. Not sure what it is for. My old rusty headers that came loose with the car parts did not have this extra bit. (Shown on the right hand side bottom) sulfate uses
  22. Cool thank you for that I will try and find one. Yes my rims are 16" which I thought was unusual.. I don't like them but will paint them gloss black initially until I can afford either magnum 500s or the magnum stealth
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