Ryunker

Then you are looking for a stock 351C 4V. That is exactly what you described. Trying to re-engineer this motor to meet your goals is just a way to empty your wallet.

So, I made the move of all my tools with exception of my harbor freight cart and have had enough stuff to still function at work. I keep going to where my stuff was to find it gone. It has been three weeks so far. First photo is from the new house, second is what's left at work..

So recommendations to get this stuff redone, who does it? Recommendations appreachiated.

both. pm me where you are at, I am going thru on I90 to South Dakota. If not shipping is ok

If gcdunlop does not take it, I most definitely want it, please pm me. I am driving thru your state Friday.

By the way. I need one of those setups as well. 2nd in line. Pm me

I am in also. Xl

So you do tach conversions along with clocks? I will need both. Car was not originally a "console car" looking for a solution for both, I have cores.

Look into ignition stuff, and timing. What do you have installed in that motor? Points? Aftermarket stuff? How did you set the timing? Bunch of great useful info on this site for that too.

Yes, even stock replacement parts for current cars are weeks away. even like 2018 model car brake parts are backordered from our standard vendors.

For those of us that make a living in auto repair, here is a question for you. I have been a tech for decades, gathering tools for ever. At my current job, have a snapon 72" triple bay bottom box, seven drawer cart, along with a harbor freight service cart all full and do not have a need for anything else. That being said, here is my dilemma. Moving out of state, wife and most of our stuff already at the new home 570 miles away, Movers are coming again on October 28th to move the rest of our crap along with my two snapon boxes. Have to stay here in town for the next six months so my daughter can finish high school so have to remain functional in my job using only what fits in the harbor freight cart. Is it possible to minimize your tool needs to fit and still function as an "A" tech in a service cart? We work on all makes and models, not so much on the big super duty pickups, but like everything else. Could you downsize and still be productive?

ARP bolts, ARP specs.

Factory tach has always been broken. Car is at the new house under covers until My daughter and I move in May after she finished high school. I believe my solution is "Rocketman" for the tach rework, and HemiKiller solution for the wire from the carb solenoid to feed the coil. I will be visiting the new house at the end of the month, if time allows looking for the solenoid wire will be at the top of the list. My engine harness I purchased aftermarket over a decade ago, do not have any solenoid on the aftermarket carb, so have really no clue if that " engine - the anti dieseling solenoid wire feed. It's red w/yellow hash marks" power wire is there. Sure hope it is. This forum is great

71 M code. Had nothing, purchased headers installed and found the stock ports of the head larger than the inlet of the 4V headers. Actually gave them to the scrap guy and months later scored a pair of manifolds and never looked back.

USN 1984 to 1995. Jet engine mechanic "Aviation Machinist Mate First Class" Worked on E2C Hawkeyes and C2 aircraft.

If it is freeze plugs on the rear of the engine, drop the trans and do it in the car. Do all of them that are accessible. Really get this under pressure and determine the origin of the leak first, on the 302 coolant goes thru the heads on the way thru the intake manifold. Both of which could more likely be the problem. Either way in the car repair.

Any chance you have the oil cap?

Awesome.

71 "M" code factory tach car The tach does not work, car runs. Going thru an upgrade on engine ignition as discussed in a different thread. PerTronix igniter III with matching coil and relay. What are the options as to the tach? Rich

This "pertronix relay" comes with something, or I need to source it seperate?

So what is a good solution? The time to address this is before I pull my hair out. Stanglover, more specific on bypassing the resistor? Where is a good place to tie in the electric choke?

I do have an "inoperative" factory tach. Suggestions?

So, I was looking at the wiring diagram in preparations for installing an igniter III and I see circuit 16 that feeds the coil is a resistance wire off the ignition switch. How and where does this circuit get modified and be "hidden" from plain sight. Currently, I also have the electric choke tied into the same circuit.

Took into consideration what Stanglover posted about the igniter three. I called petronix asked questions about all three versions along with warranty problems. Their answers and explanations were very good, did not seam scripted. I went ahead and ordered the igniter three, matching coil and a set of wires. Also again Stanglover made a good point about the full 12v. Running it off a relay would help.

It was nasty, pulled it apart this morning, gave it a bath. Plan on posting a few photos. Also pertronix stuff, very little price difference between their three versions. Is there any downside as to what I choose? Looking at "igniter III" as it looks to replace the plate. Electronic Ignition Conversion | PerTronix 71281 Ignitor III Adaptive Dwell Control Multiple Spark with Digital Rev Limiter Ford 8 cyl (pertronixbrands.com)