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MNBelv57

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    72' Mustang

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    New York

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  1. Thanks guys for the suggestions. I'll check those areas and get that rod back in. Mario.
  2. Hello all, wondering if anyone encountered this before. On my 1972 Mustang 302 with FMX trans. I recently noticed difficulty shifting from Park into Reverse, It is like the shifter is locked but if I move the shifter handle slightly to the left and then shift, it goes into gear smoothly. I never had this problem before and the transmission runs great otherwise. The only thing I ever did to it was to install a Transgo shift kit about 10 years ago. I also have Blackjack headers which instructed me to remove the reverse lock rod (I don't know the correct name for this piece) because it interfered with the header on one side, According to those instructions you could modify the rod or replace it with one for a manual transmission but I never got around to replacing it. This was about twenty four years ago and I have learned a lot more since then but unfortunately can't find the original instructions. I hope this is not the cause of the hard shifting problem but I thought this info. might help to come to some type of conclusion. Thanks and awaiting your suggestions, Mario.
  3. Hello again all. Hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving. Just wanted to give an update and thank everyone who posted with their suggestions for the trouble I was having with the Holley 4160 I had installed on my 302. After pulling off the front bowl I replaced the power valve and noticed that although it was a 6.5 it was a high flow version with more than two slots. I replaced it with a standard 6.5, remounted the carb., adjusted the floats and air- fuel mix with a vacuum gauge. I also set the timing with a vacuum gauge. I took the car out for a nice run. There was no hesitation or bog down from a full stop and when I hit the gas from the curb I actually chirped the tire. On the highway at cruising speed, I hit the gas and she took off without hesitation and sounded great. When I pulled into a park and checked the plugs they were nice and clean and the correct colour. I was very pleased and thank all of you for your expert help. All the best. Mario.
  4. Chuck, my vacuum in drive is about 15 but the needle jumps about every 2 seconds. In park I get about 19 on the vacuum with a steady reading. The mixture screws don't seem to have too drastic an effect when turned all the way in but I got the best vacuum reading with both sides turned out about one and a half turns. Thanks, Mario.
  5. Chuck, if increasing the idle doesn't work, what size power valve do you think would work and do the jet and squirter nozzle have to be changed too. Also, how do you check if your power valve is blown. Thanks, Mario.
  6. Tommy, the list # is 1850-2 1196. OK I think that should be a 4160 VS carb with a single metering block on the primary side. Is that the case? If so it should work fine for you. Yeah Tommy it does have the single metering block on the primary side. I am waiting on some gaskets but will try the timing like you said. Thanks again. Try increasing the timing. That will raise the idle speed which will allow you to close the front butterfly and get you off the transition slot.
  7. Thanks Mike. Actually I did rebuild it about a year ago and this fall is the first time I took it out since then.
  8. +1 increase initial timing. You are probably idling on the t slot which accounts for the richness (is that a word?) What is the List number of the carb? It should be on the choke horn. Tommy, the list # is 1850-2 1196.
  9. Hello all, haven't posted in a while so I hope everyone is well and enjoying their cars. I hope someone can help with a frustrating problem I am having. I have a 72' convertible with stock 302 except for headers, dual exhaust Petronix conversion kit with Petronix coil and 8mm spark plug wires. I had the stock intake with two barrel until recently when I changed to a Summit Stage 1 intake which is described as a stock replacement for a four barrel car, and a Holley 4150 600cfm carb. I had the carb. since the 80's and got it used from a friend who said it was off a Chevy 350. I had this carb. on a Weiand Action Plus high rise intake some years ago and when some friends tuned it the car ran really well with great throttle response and plenty of power for a stock motor. For some reason it started running poorly and out of frustration I put the old 2bbl. back. Like I said this was quite a few years ago. So, I thought I would try the 4bbl. again. I rebuilt it and put it on the car but it doesn't idle smoothly and you can really smell the unburnt gas. The plugs were getting badly fouled too. I adjusted the floats as per Holley's instructions with the fuel level at the bottom of the sight plug and also adjusted the air fuel mixture screws with a vacuum guage to get the highest amount of vacuum. I also adjusted the timing to 6 degree BTDC as per the cowl sticker tune up instructions and set the idle to 575 RPM's in drive (for auto. trans. cars). But it is still running lousy and sounds really anemic. Since I don't know the origin of this carb., I figured that the jets might be too large so I took off the primary bowl and found that both jets were #66, the power valve was #65 and the squirter nozzle was a #25. I called the Summit Racing Tech. line and gave all these specifications to the technician but he thought that the combo was about right for a stock car. I am a little stumped here and by no means am I very experienced at this but I really want to get this car running strong again so I can enjoy it. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mario
  10. I installed one of Rocketman's conversion tachs. on my 72' convertible about a month ago. I had been sitting on it since the summer until I got a chance to put it in. It looks beautiful. Bob puts out a really good product and he is a really nice guy too. I had my friend drop off my idiot guage to his stand at Fords at Carlisle this past June with my console clock which had stopped working a long time ago. Bob had both pieces back to me really quick and because he said he only did a quick cleanup on the clock to get it working, he didn't even charge me for that. After putting the tach. in I took a drive upstate in New York. About 200 miles total. The tach. worked great. I originally wanted to put in the factory tach. with the guages until I saw how involved it was. I then thought about putting a column tach. in but thought it just didn't look right with everything else looking factory stock. Bob's tach. solves this while retaining the idiot lights & if it breaks the ignition is unaffected like with the old tachs. Mario.
  11. Thanks for the input guys, I will measure the intake with a flat edge just to be sure and yes "c9zx" it is an older intake. I think I bought it from Summit in 1992 or 93 but you are right it is no longer listed. Mario.
  12. Hello all, I currently have a 2Bbl. carb. on my 72' with working Ram Air (including air cleaner). I would like to put on my 4Bbl. Weiand "Action Plus" high rise intake and Holley 600cfm that I had on the car before. I never had it on with the Ram Air setup and I was wondering if there would be any hood clearance problems with a high rise as opposed to a stock 4Bbl. low rise. Thanks in advance for your input, Mario.
  13. Hello everyone. My name is Mario and I am new to this forum. I am working on a 72' convertible right now and I am in the process of putting in a tachometer. My car only had the idiot lights before but I had it converted to a modern type tach. I was wondering where I can route the "signal" wire through the firewall. I could only see the speeedo grommit and that looked too tight to slip the wire through. Thanks in advance guys, Mario.
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