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    1973 Q Code-4 Spd. Owned for the last 40 years.


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kingb1973's Achievements


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  1. Or this one?? https://www.ebay.com/itm/153487522795
  2. Here is a post/thread from years past. Might help. https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/32416-looking-for-window-crank-knobs/
  3. Count me in one the belts. Give me a day to think on any other parts that I may need. (Always a long list) and I will get back to you ASAP.
  4. Interested in the blue rear seat belts only. Do not need the retractors though. Darn mice made a nest out of mine. Please let me know.
  5. Here is an earlier post that discusses some possible issues. https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/21737-lazy-wiper-arm/?tab=comments#comment-223811 Wiper arms can be mounted in two positions? One to conceal the arms under the trailing edge of the hood for Summer, and the other would leave the blade higher up the windshield, in the sun, for the Winter season. Possible driver's side of yours is mounted in the Winter/higher position?
  6. Finally found the right combo. Needed to loosen and re-torque balancer. It was not fully seated. Off by 1/8". Adjust bends on fuel line as it was hitting P/S pump before it would drop all the way on the adjustment slot. Also changes routing of P/S hoses slightly. All good now. Ended up here: Crank Pulley-D2OE-6312-BA (2 Groove) Fan Pulley-D1AE-8509-BA (1 Groove) P/S Pulley-D0AR-A Balancer-D1ZE-6316-AB 52" Belt-Crank - P/S - Fan 38.5" Belt-Crank to 70A Alt. On to the next tasks. Setting mechanical dual points and re-mounting 4300-D carb. More fun ahead.........
  7. I see at one time you had a blue interior on one of your vehicles. Any chance you have the "fixed" rear seatbelts....in blue?? Possibly a working "LOW" tone horn?? Thanks in Advance
  8. Adding to the last post. It seems that my having a Q Code-4V 351C makes a difference in the pulley??
  9. Can't believe that pulleys and belts are still kickin' my butt. Worked with Don at OMS (THANKS Don) and got a replacement P/S pulley (DOAR-A) AND a Fan Pulley (D1AE-8509-BA) that I figure is for a non-A/C setup. 52" belt still does not fit. Now thinking I do not have the correct crank pulley either. Entirely possible that fan AND crank pulley were swapped out at the same time.......long ago. I currently have a 4 bolt/2 groove pulley (D2OE-6312-BA). Both the Alt and P/S rings are the same diameter Is this the correct part? I have seen other pulleys where the inner grove (P/S and Fan) is smaller.Can anyone help point me to what should be on my engine? Vehicle is a 73 351C-Built in Feb 73. No A/C - with P/S Any help is greatly appreciated.
  10. Agreed. Plastic core makes for a part that can fail. I bought extras also.
  11. Dug into this a bit. Here is what I did to my window cranks today. Sourced a different knob than what I originally bought to fit....'cause they don't. Parts and info listed further down. Not perfect, not high quality, but looks better than nothing. From L to R, New knob, Original Ford knob, and what I bought first as a 68-73 knob with the solid back. Dry fit looked good. Pressed knob onto handle with the provided stud and wave washer and..............TOTAL FAIL. Knob did not seat fully and was a little tough to turn. Measured the other stud and depth of knob stem hole, found the stud is too long and the stem expands when inserting so it drags in the handle. Tore that knob off and started over with the other knob I had. (I got 2) So the second attempt I cut stud shorter by 1/8" or so, also drilled out the knob stem, carefully, by hand, with a 13/64 twist bit and pressed again. Pressed a little at a time and checked often so as not to get it so tight that the knob wouldn't turn. Just enough to push against the wave washer. Much Better. Here are the replacement knobs I used. Listed to fit early/mid 70's F Series Trucks. Dorman #76943. These WILL NOT pass the test of time like originals, but I can replace 2 knobs for less than 10 bucks. The stems and inner cores are plastic and not metal as the originals. Parts are listed as coming as a set of one black and one clear per pack. I bought 3 packs and all contained 2 clear/semi-clear knobs. Local O'Rieilley's store had in stock for $5.50/Pack of 2. Amazon has them down to $4.50/Pack of 2. I bought extras for when these fail. Beware...some places show them up over $10.00 plus shipping.
  12. Hello kingb1973, Strange that the knobs you purchased would be listed as fitting 65-67 as most Ford vehicles from that era still had the permanently attached chrome knobs. In fact, all 1964 1/2 through 67 Mustangs used the same window crank handle. The handles with replaceable color keyed knobs didn't start appearing until the '68 model year. The D2OZ and D3AZ handles have the "Volcano" hump and do not have a correct knob replacement. (Ford NEVER offered a knob replacement for them). You could either do as tony-muscle suggested and remove the hump from your 72-73 style handle or acquire the 71 handles (C9UZ-8223342-A) and use the knob of your choice. With the clear knob either would have the correct look. And....Don @ Ohio Mustang Supply does have a good deal on new 72-73 handles.https://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=1868 [/url]Yup, Seemed screwy to me. Here is both sides of the package. Vendor has not acknowledged my existence, much less any concern about an issue with my last order....after contacting them 3 times about my order. Vendor no longer in my top 10 for sure. .
  13. Bumping a 1 year + old thread.... Ran into the same knob replacement issue. I have the '72' style handles with the "volcano" end for the knob........but missing the knobs. Made the same move as other folks and purchased knobs that are listed to fit "68-73", but they don't. In fact, the original label in the repackaged knobs state they are for a 65-67. Still trying to get an RMA for the return. So the question now is, since I can't source replacement knobs, and I still want to go with original Ford part.....do the '73' style handles (After 4/73) with the exposed screws, still have the "volcano" end where the knob sets? I don't want to buy original parts if when the knob breaks I am still stuck with a handle that can't be repaired. How long did that style stay in production? Trying to decide if I move forward or backward in time, or just get a repop that has parts support.
  14. Finally pulled the dates off my glass. Hope this helps: Doors - 2M-Dec 72 Quarters - 3A-Jan 73 W/S - 3B-Feb 73 Back - 3A-Jan 73 All SUN-X All have "block" Carlite-No Circle Back is with Heated Grid - Cannot identify place of Mfg. but all is DOT-75
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