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About kingb1973

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    Mustangs are cool

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    1973 Q Code-4 Spd. Owned for the last 40 years.


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  1. Here is an earlier post that discusses some possible issues. https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/21737-lazy-wiper-arm/?tab=comments#comment-223811 Wiper arms can be mounted in two positions? One to conceal the arms under the trailing edge of the hood for Summer, and the other would leave the blade higher up the windshield, in the sun, for the Winter season. Possible driver's side of yours is mounted in the Winter/higher position?
  2. Finally found the right combo. Needed to loosen and re-torque balancer. It was not fully seated. Off by 1/8". Adjust bends on fuel line as it was hitting P/S pump before it would drop all the way on the adjustment slot. Also changes routing of P/S hoses slightly. All good now. Ended up here: Crank Pulley-D2OE-6312-BA (2 Groove) Fan Pulley-D1AE-8509-BA (1 Groove) P/S Pulley-D0AR-A Balancer-D1ZE-6316-AB 52" Belt-Crank - P/S - Fan 38.5" Belt-Crank to 70A Alt. On to the next tasks. Setting mechanical dual points and re-mounting 4300-D carb. More fun ahead.........
  3. I see at one time you had a blue interior on one of your vehicles. Any chance you have the "fixed" rear seatbelts....in blue?? Possibly a working "LOW" tone horn?? Thanks in Advance
  4. Adding to the last post. It seems that my having a Q Code-4V 351C makes a difference in the pulley??
  5. Can't believe that pulleys and belts are still kickin' my butt. Worked with Don at OMS (THANKS Don) and got a replacement P/S pulley (DOAR-A) AND a Fan Pulley (D1AE-8509-BA) that I figure is for a non-A/C setup. 52" belt still does not fit. Now thinking I do not have the correct crank pulley either. Entirely possible that fan AND crank pulley were swapped out at the same time.......long ago. I currently have a 4 bolt/2 groove pulley (D2OE-6312-BA). Both the Alt and P/S rings are the same diameter Is this the correct part? I have seen other pulleys where the inner grove (P/S and Fan) i
  6. Agreed. Plastic core makes for a part that can fail. I bought extras also.
  7. Dug into this a bit. Here is what I did to my window cranks today. Sourced a different knob than what I originally bought to fit....'cause they don't. Parts and info listed further down. Not perfect, not high quality, but looks better than nothing. From L to R, New knob, Original Ford knob, and what I bought first as a 68-73 knob with the solid back. Dry fit looked good. Pressed knob onto handle with the provided stud and wave washer and..............TOTAL FAIL. Knob did not seat fully and was a little tough to turn. Measured the other st
  8. Hello kingb1973, Strange that the knobs you purchased would be listed as fitting 65-67 as most Ford vehicles from that era still had the permanently attached chrome knobs. In fact, all 1964 1/2 through 67 Mustangs used the same window crank handle. The handles with replaceable color keyed knobs didn't start appearing until the '68 model year. The D2OZ and D3AZ handles have the "Volcano" hump and do not have a correct knob replacement. (Ford NEVER offered a knob replacement for them). You could either do as tony-muscle suggested and remove the hump from your 72-73 style handle or acquire th
  9. Bumping a 1 year + old thread.... Ran into the same knob replacement issue. I have the '72' style handles with the "volcano" end for the knob........but missing the knobs. Made the same move as other folks and purchased knobs that are listed to fit "68-73", but they don't. In fact, the original label in the repackaged knobs state they are for a 65-67. Still trying to get an RMA for the return. So the question now is, since I can't source replacement knobs, and I still want to go with original Ford part.....do the '73' style handles (After 4/73) with the exposed screws, still have the "v
  10. Finally pulled the dates off my glass. Hope this helps: Doors - 2M-Dec 72 Quarters - 3A-Jan 73 W/S - 3B-Feb 73 Back - 3A-Jan 73 All SUN-X All have "block" Carlite-No Circle Back is with Heated Grid - Cannot identify place of Mfg. but all is DOT-75
  11. I would agree with your pic as a good example, besides getting a different date. Don't need to be the same date all around. I have JAN Quarters and FEB Windshield in a late FEB built car. Haven't looked at the rest of my glass yet.
  12. Just started looking at my window bugs last week to start looking for a windshield. Here is the bug from my quarter window. My Mach has tinted glass (SUN-X), but it is Dearborn built 20 days after yours so the Logo on the glass should be correct. Glass is dated Jan. 73. DOT-75 points to Ford-Dearborn, but the "N" shows made in Nashville. I believe the last code on the bug for clear glass would read FM-M60 for clear? Here is a link from Anghel Restorations. A good write up about earlier glass codes. http://anghelrestorations.com/uploads/3/5/1/2/35122002/glass_v1.1.pdf
  13. Just read through the windshield post. A job well done for sure. I will search about the rear glass and rail install posts so I can get everything on a list before I dive in. Thanks for mentioning the roof rails. Had not considered to remove those also. Headliner has been out for years. I just cut around some of the trim.
  14. So I am turning my attention to installing a headliner this Summer. Have read through a lot of posts and coming up with a plan ahead. The rear glass in the 73 Mach is out and from what I read it is Sooooo much easier if the front glass is out is out also. Perfect....as mine is old, cracked, scratched, and gouged by the wiper arms. My original front glass in VERY cracked AND has gouges from the wiper arms. So I can budget the cost of this effort I was wondering if there is a good source for a new semi-correct windshield and the channel for the bottom edge of the glass? If you buy the glass
  15. All, 9 months later and 4 weeks into a "Stay At Home" order, I cleaned the garage and there was the same car (73-351C-Non AC-4 Manual).....begging for attention as always. Getting back into my Power Steering issues again as now I have another extended 4 weeks at home. I did get an Index bracket that was missing from my P/S pump and installed and it threw all the P/S lines into turmoil. Changing the "clocking" at the pump to where it should be put the pressure line against the master cylinder. It all looks wrong now. Pulled it ALL off, pump, lines, cooler...the works. Put a seal kit in a
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