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kingb1973

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Everything posted by kingb1973

  1. Count me in one the belts. Give me a day to think on any other parts that I may need. (Always a long list) and I will get back to you ASAP.
  2. Interested in the blue rear seat belts only. Do not need the retractors though. Darn mice made a nest out of mine. Please let me know.
  3. Here is an earlier post that discusses some possible issues. https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/21737-lazy-wiper-arm/?tab=comments#comment-223811 Wiper arms can be mounted in two positions? One to conceal the arms under the trailing edge of the hood for Summer, and the other would leave the blade higher up the windshield, in the sun, for the Winter season. Possible driver's side of yours is mounted in the Winter/higher position?
  4. Finally found the right combo. Needed to loosen and re-torque balancer. It was not fully seated. Off by 1/8". Adjust bends on fuel line as it was hitting P/S pump before it would drop all the way on the adjustment slot. Also changes routing of P/S hoses slightly. All good now. Ended up here: Crank Pulley-D2OE-6312-BA (2 Groove) Fan Pulley-D1AE-8509-BA (1 Groove) P/S Pulley-D0AR-A Balancer-D1ZE-6316-AB 52" Belt-Crank - P/S - Fan 38.5" Belt-Crank to 70A Alt. On to the next tasks. Setting mechanical dual points and re-mounting 4300-D carb. More fun ahead.........
  5. I see at one time you had a blue interior on one of your vehicles. Any chance you have the "fixed" rear seatbelts....in blue?? Possibly a working "LOW" tone horn?? Thanks in Advance
  6. Adding to the last post. It seems that my having a Q Code-4V 351C makes a difference in the pulley??
  7. Can't believe that pulleys and belts are still kickin' my butt. Worked with Don at OMS (THANKS Don) and got a replacement P/S pulley (DOAR-A) AND a Fan Pulley (D1AE-8509-BA) that I figure is for a non-A/C setup. 52" belt still does not fit. Now thinking I do not have the correct crank pulley either. Entirely possible that fan AND crank pulley were swapped out at the same time.......long ago. I currently have a 4 bolt/2 groove pulley (D2OE-6312-BA). Both the Alt and P/S rings are the same diameter Is this the correct part? I have seen other pulleys where the inner grove (P/S and Fan) is smaller.Can anyone help point me to what should be on my engine? Vehicle is a 73 351C-Built in Feb 73. No A/C - with P/S Any help is greatly appreciated.
  8. Agreed. Plastic core makes for a part that can fail. I bought extras also.
  9. Dug into this a bit. Here is what I did to my window cranks today. Sourced a different knob than what I originally bought to fit....'cause they don't. Parts and info listed further down. Not perfect, not high quality, but looks better than nothing. From L to R, New knob, Original Ford knob, and what I bought first as a 68-73 knob with the solid back. Dry fit looked good. Pressed knob onto handle with the provided stud and wave washer and..............TOTAL FAIL. Knob did not seat fully and was a little tough to turn. Measured the other stud and depth of knob stem hole, found the stud is too long and the stem expands when inserting so it drags in the handle. Tore that knob off and started over with the other knob I had. (I got 2) So the second attempt I cut stud shorter by 1/8" or so, also drilled out the knob stem, carefully, by hand, with a 13/64 twist bit and pressed again. Pressed a little at a time and checked often so as not to get it so tight that the knob wouldn't turn. Just enough to push against the wave washer. Much Better. Here are the replacement knobs I used. Listed to fit early/mid 70's F Series Trucks. Dorman #76943. These WILL NOT pass the test of time like originals, but I can replace 2 knobs for less than 10 bucks. The stems and inner cores are plastic and not metal as the originals. Parts are listed as coming as a set of one black and one clear per pack. I bought 3 packs and all contained 2 clear/semi-clear knobs. Local O'Rieilley's store had in stock for $5.50/Pack of 2. Amazon has them down to $4.50/Pack of 2. I bought extras for when these fail. Beware...some places show them up over $10.00 plus shipping.
  10. Hello kingb1973, Strange that the knobs you purchased would be listed as fitting 65-67 as most Ford vehicles from that era still had the permanently attached chrome knobs. In fact, all 1964 1/2 through 67 Mustangs used the same window crank handle. The handles with replaceable color keyed knobs didn't start appearing until the '68 model year. The D2OZ and D3AZ handles have the "Volcano" hump and do not have a correct knob replacement. (Ford NEVER offered a knob replacement for them). You could either do as tony-muscle suggested and remove the hump from your 72-73 style handle or acquire the 71 handles (C9UZ-8223342-A) and use the knob of your choice. With the clear knob either would have the correct look. And....Don @ Ohio Mustang Supply does have a good deal on new 72-73 handles.https://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=1868 [/url]Yup, Seemed screwy to me. Here is both sides of the package. Vendor has not acknowledged my existence, much less any concern about an issue with my last order....after contacting them 3 times about my order. Vendor no longer in my top 10 for sure. .
  11. Bumping a 1 year + old thread.... Ran into the same knob replacement issue. I have the '72' style handles with the "volcano" end for the knob........but missing the knobs. Made the same move as other folks and purchased knobs that are listed to fit "68-73", but they don't. In fact, the original label in the repackaged knobs state they are for a 65-67. Still trying to get an RMA for the return. So the question now is, since I can't source replacement knobs, and I still want to go with original Ford part.....do the '73' style handles (After 4/73) with the exposed screws, still have the "volcano" end where the knob sets? I don't want to buy original parts if when the knob breaks I am still stuck with a handle that can't be repaired. How long did that style stay in production? Trying to decide if I move forward or backward in time, or just get a repop that has parts support.
  12. Finally pulled the dates off my glass. Hope this helps: Doors - 2M-Dec 72 Quarters - 3A-Jan 73 W/S - 3B-Feb 73 Back - 3A-Jan 73 All SUN-X All have "block" Carlite-No Circle Back is with Heated Grid - Cannot identify place of Mfg. but all is DOT-75
  13. I would agree with your pic as a good example, besides getting a different date. Don't need to be the same date all around. I have JAN Quarters and FEB Windshield in a late FEB built car. Haven't looked at the rest of my glass yet.
  14. Just started looking at my window bugs last week to start looking for a windshield. Here is the bug from my quarter window. My Mach has tinted glass (SUN-X), but it is Dearborn built 20 days after yours so the Logo on the glass should be correct. Glass is dated Jan. 73. DOT-75 points to Ford-Dearborn, but the "N" shows made in Nashville. I believe the last code on the bug for clear glass would read FM-M60 for clear? Here is a link from Anghel Restorations. A good write up about earlier glass codes. http://anghelrestorations.com/uploads/3/5/1/2/35122002/glass_v1.1.pdf
  15. Just read through the windshield post. A job well done for sure. I will search about the rear glass and rail install posts so I can get everything on a list before I dive in. Thanks for mentioning the roof rails. Had not considered to remove those also. Headliner has been out for years. I just cut around some of the trim.
  16. So I am turning my attention to installing a headliner this Summer. Have read through a lot of posts and coming up with a plan ahead. The rear glass in the 73 Mach is out and from what I read it is Sooooo much easier if the front glass is out is out also. Perfect....as mine is old, cracked, scratched, and gouged by the wiper arms. My original front glass in VERY cracked AND has gouges from the wiper arms. So I can budget the cost of this effort I was wondering if there is a good source for a new semi-correct windshield and the channel for the bottom edge of the glass? If you buy the glass, can you hire installers to do the work for installing both front and rear glass correctly? The drivers side "articulating" wiper arm has so much play in it at the connection points that it has wore groves into the front glass. Don't want to ruin any new glass installed. Is there a way to "tighten" the arms pivot points?
  17. All, 9 months later and 4 weeks into a "Stay At Home" order, I cleaned the garage and there was the same car (73-351C-Non AC-4 Manual).....begging for attention as always. Getting back into my Power Steering issues again as now I have another extended 4 weeks at home. I did get an Index bracket that was missing from my P/S pump and installed and it threw all the P/S lines into turmoil. Changing the "clocking" at the pump to where it should be put the pressure line against the master cylinder. It all looks wrong now. Pulled it ALL off, pump, lines, cooler...the works. Put a seal kit in and cleaned the pump up. Ready to go back in now. So are the hoses for P/S clocked a certain way at the steering box? I have a a steel bracket that fits around the steel parts at the steering box, but the Non-Original Pressure hose does not have the "bulge" in the steel part of the line. Only the return hose is original with the bulge. My lines at the box are turned to the outboard side. Should these lines be inboard, outboard, center line of the steering box...or is it whatever works?? In the middle of all this, I need a new DOAR-A P/S pulley. Mine is bent (I remember doing that), and runs out almost 1/8"...if someone has one for sale? Also concluded using my build sheet for fan pulley and belt size that I am running the incorrect fan pulley. I have a D1AE-8509-AA for an A/C setup. Thinking I need to to buy a D1AE-8509-BA fan pulley also.......if available.
  18. Welcome from Tacoma, WA. Nice looking ride.
  19. Excellent! Love when I can scratch something off the list without spending time or money. Thanks
  20. Need some helpful knowledge. Working on a 73 351C-4V. Was wondering if where the choke stove mounts to the intake if there should be a gasket to seal this? I have looked several places and can't seem to find the part. I have seen ones for other applications and I see that if you buy an Edelbrock block-off plate there is a gasket. It seems something should be there. Is there a source, or am I looking for something that doesn't exist??
  21. Thanks Rocketfoot for all you do. Gotta start reading now.
  22. These are on my 351C. Two on the left side holding the engine feed harness, but work well on the other side for vacuum lines also. Had the PNs written down at one time...trying to find them.
  23. I still would not take this as being 100% accurate or complete. Just more data to add to the mix. Some things still don't look quite right to me. The wire harness for the 351c-2V looks off, the air cleaners don't look right, the big knot of hoses at the rear of the 4V/MT, and probable more. Add this to Don's calibration drawings and then add the electrical diagrams and harness.........and just maybe?
  24. Went to the bookshelf several times this weekend. Swear I looked at the same stuff over and over. tried again and found this early this morning before going to work. Cannot verify the accuracy of what is shown here (Bad pictures of bad PDFs in a fairly good book), but it looks informative. Hope this helps. Pics are of diagrams for 1973 EGR Equipped 351C in several combinations, (2V/4V, MT/AT, W and W/O AC). Still has some things like the air cleaner that do not look correct, but they do show 2 and 3 port temp switches, 4 port loop on the firewall, mechanical DVAC for manual transmissions, etc. Have PDFs attached below of these and the 302 and 250. Think if you combine this with the calibrations that Don C has, it just may get you where you are trying to go. I don't understand why there are 2 options for the heater hose mounted 2 port switch when having the auto transmission. Attached are pictured that show one type for the auto trans (18B402), don't know what the optional PN 18599 looks like. The other picture is for the manual trans (18A568). PN 18599 images I can find don't make sense to me. I got these pics from other members when I was trying to figure out how the vacuum lines ran on my 73. Here is the link to that post: https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-temperature-control-valve-in-our-heater-hose Also pic of the vacuum tree in the rear of the intake. 1973 EGR Vacuum Routing.pdf
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