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jt.db

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    1973 Coupe- oddball mystery hand me down thats full of surprises

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    Texas
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    Northeast

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  1. Does anyone know where to get replacement light sockets for the back up lights? My back up lights don't work. and unfortunately they look fine. is there anything that could be traced back to the wiring that I dont know about? my brake lights work fine, turn signals etc. but without the back up lights i cant pass inspection. Does the vehicle being in reverse automatically turn the brake lights on? or do you have to apply the gas to make them turn on?
  2. Update on the mustang: No trim, No window again. i put the window in once already but its back out again for the headliner. I managed to finally get my hands on the emblem for the side of the roof, itll be here in 3 days. i have the first section of the headliner glued in, its proving extremely difficult, luckily I managed to convince my parents to let me borrow the garage for the "weekend" which has now turned in to a week. Wiring harness has been fully repaired and wrapped in the back (Tail Light Section) working to the front of the car... soon The weather is warming up again, and the car no longer stays running by itself Before i order the new intake and carb I wanted to confirm deleting the EGR is a bolt on affair where if you buy a non EGR intake i can get rid of that god awful thing in between the carb and Intake.
  3. But yessir i did confirm its a Cleveland motor on the yellow sticker on the cowl, and the way the radiator hose goes into the motor (motor is the one that came with the car too)
  4. I'm planning to make 330 hp max as i dont need anything over that at 17, so just an intake swap, maybe engine/trans rebuild to service it, only modifications would be a carb and intake. (and new exaust) its the side thing on the passenger side where it has the 2 arrows and 7 slots saying lean clockwise. it was full rich, turned it to the middle and the car idled better, shifted better too. i just got my paycheck today so i bought the rear window weatherstrip and the rope for it as well. ill let yall know if i shatter my rear window. after moving the dot to the middle (i made sure to take before pictures in case i messed up) it was acting a-lot better. shifts much more smoothly as it doesnt idle high then low then high, it used to jolt into gear between R and D but it is now seamless almost. Park and Reverse have a very small shake, putting it into reverse from park will make it idle low for a few seconds then it will shoot back up (HEAT ON, ALL LIGHTS INCLUDING DOME, While applying brakes) so it can handle being under load without stalling out now as well. kicking on the ac wont shut the car off as well. But please do inform me on how to delete the EGR thing as it has empty lines that dont go anywhere, and makes the car seem less tidy. When i have the new plugs, wires, & distributor caps im going to re-route it nicely. as of right now its a pigeon nest in there.
  5. Alright, so i adjusted the knob. it was all the way to the rich side i think, it was to the left. moved it over a little bit. now the car idles better and shifts better. Crazy how such a small adjustment changed the whole cars feeling.
  6. it is a cleveland as the rad hose comes out vertically, one of the differences between the windsor and cleveland
  7. aaah okay, so This intake would work to use the 4b carb on the 2v head for now, until i can fully convert it
  8. and im assuming that there is no way to mount the 4 barrel carb properly, without changing the heads, as well as the intake right
  9. From what i saw the 2121 looks like its for the 289/302, the 2665 would be for the 351 4v right? and I'll be sure to send pictures of the area, i just have not done it just yet. and is it easier to delete the egr valve or buy the intake that isnt marked "Non EGR"
  10. Alright, so I'm finishing up the back end of my mustang, got all the rear wiring done, dome light works, everything works except for the cig lighter and the 2nd click on the windshield wipers. I'm 17, and know only about body work. What is the best thing to do if I'm replacing the carb? as of right now i have the motorcraft2v, and im missing a lot of vacuum lines, and my emmisions thing was deleted too (1973 car) Does any of yall also have the original, but completed? I'm looking to replace mine but also convert it to a 4v around the same size, i just do not know what cfm the original is. If i replace mine with a 4v carb do i have to change the intake as well? and where would i find the vacuum diagram for the car as well? My lines are colorless as they have faded, the engine bay on this car was neglected, as with the rear of the car as well. and the middle. the car does not run right, and i have no idea how to tune it, check/adjust timing either. it starts cold idling low, then idles higher onces it warms up, but theres a phase inbetween where it cant run itself and will die, where you have to turn it over. Ive replaced the trunk floor, gas tank, filler neck, sending unit (i put a new filter on) replaced the rubber on the gas lines, cleaned out the metal parts, with a new filter going to the carb as well. so i know its not a fueling issue. i have yet to check the distributor, spark plugs, & spark plug wires.
  11. Is the extended bumper actually useful safety wise? I prefer the cut back look like you did, but I am a new driver, and Im 100% positive will at least get into a fender bender with this car at one point. if the bumper will save the rear trunk brace rail I'll leave it on, because I do not want to put another one on, but if it doesn't do anything i might as well make the car look better. Well. Ford extended the bumper to meet the new Federal 5 mile an hour bumper regulation. Theoretically, it was supposed to prevent or reduce damage at 5 miles an hour and below. I suppose it does since it passed the fed. reg. back then, but I have my doubts that it makes much of a difference. Any bump to the flimsy chrome bumper and it bends or the rubber fillers and stone defector are damaged. Clean bumper it is!
  12. +1 you were right on that one. When I pulled the quarter off, all my powerwashing went to waste on my driveway as it is orange again, but Ive patched the wheel arches properly, then de-rusted them then sprayed them with rust bullet, the trunk and drop offs have been replaced as well.
  13. Also, Does anybody know where to get the colormatch paint for Blue Glow (3K) and what would I do for clear coat? I'm fairly new to mechanics and I am just learning here and there. I want to cover up the primer for now until I get all the body work done, then the car can be sent off for blast & paint.
  14. ahhhh shit i bought all new hardware for the bumper not knowing any of that. . . i would have deleted the deflector but i already bought the 73 hardware. My tail light panel did not have the holes in the first place so i drilled them out for no reason either . . . If you already have the longer 73 bumper mounts and the stone deflector you can easily sell them. The stone deflector mounting holes can be plugged with small plastic plugs and you will never see it behind the pulled in the bumper. A while back I installed the 71-72 setup and then the 73 setup on my 1973 car.. comparison pic below. Is the extended bumper actually useful safety wise? I prefer the cut back look like you did, but I am a new driver, and Im 100% positive will at least get into a fender bender with this car at one point. if the bumper will save the rear trunk brace rail I'll leave it on, because I do not want to put another one on, but if it doesn't do anything i might as well make the car look better.
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