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jmohring

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    1973 H-code Convertible, 351c 2V, automatic
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    IN
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    Northeast

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    Male

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  1. Wow this article is exactly what I've been looking for after trying to figure out what cam I needed for the last week. Since I'll get it custom iit also means it will be one of the last components I probably purchase for this car...
  2. Glad I know this now about the engine. I think now I'll be getting it all cleaned then waiting in oil until it's ready to be put back together. I don't think I'll be doing a ground up resto though. I definitely do not have any capability to do that equipment wise. Great info! I don't know much about runout but I'll definitely be looking into it.
  3. Got the engine pulled this past weekend with a lot of help from my dad. Had to make about 5 trips back and forth to different stores to get different tools and equipment. We ended up pulling it with the headers and trans attached with a 2-ton hoist. We took all the pulleys and brackets off, starter, A/C all removed. That A/C is heavy! We probably could have left some of it on, because we had some room to move. Had to cut a power steering tube and a trans tube that I stripped a fitting nut on trying to get it off. Anyways, it’s mounted on a stand and ready to be taken apart. Most of the components are waiting to be degreased. I’ve labeled anything that I can’t keep on the part. I also only took pictures of the brackets, so hopefully that’s enough to know how they go back on. Right now the plan is to get the engine apart, put it back together with upgrades, and paint it. Then I’ll look at the body and other components while the engine is out and see what actually needs done there. See this link for info on what’s already been done to the car: And I’ve changed some things on the list of work that I want to do on it: -Engine/components: New intake, carb, camshaft (already have headers). Have the heads done at a local machine shop that was recommended to me. I’d like to get at least 250hp after these upgrades, but not sure if I’ll need to do more to get there. Also needs a new radiator and replacement fan (thing makes so much noise you can’t hear the engine idle over it). New air filter, A/C delete, replacing some tubes and wires, etc. -Transmission: Rebuild the FMX trans. Depending on how that goes I might just look around for a cheap AOD, but I’m going to give it a shot. -Body: There is a concerning amount of rust under the body and possibly on structural areas (floor pans), so likely some repair work to be done there. Once I’m confident it’s structurally sound and the rust is under control, I’ll have it painted. -Suspension, Brakes, etc.: Need power steering hoses (maybe all new power steering). Brakes aren’t great or at least I don’t know what good brakes for this car should feel like. Rear brakes are still drum brakes. Will be getting a new master cylinder at the least and I’ll look into the better options to get better braking power. -Wheels: I’ve had vibration at 60-70mph for as long as I can remember and I’m almost positive it’s from one of the stock wheels. So I’m thinking replacement rims that can still fit the hubcaps, which are in great condition. -Interior: Drivers seat is getting pretty torn up and I really want to keep these original. The rear quarter panels paint is peeling and those need refinished. Door window crank mechanism on passenger side has always felt gummed up or something. Probably need to clean out those areas and freshen up the crank mechanisms. Any suggestions on the route that I should go are welcome. I’m still undecided on a few things, but I’ll change things as I go. I’m also trying to get parts ordered well in advance to account for the current state of the supply chain…
  4. I'll probably be pulling my engine this weekend and putting it on a stand (will be adding a post to individual projects soon). I've never done this before and years ago I had access to my dads equipment, but that's 4 hours away now. Right now I have the basic tools that most of you have like sockets, wrench, pliers, etc. and other general tools that you would use for more than just automotive work. I don't have things like impact wrench, air compressor, or any specific tools. I'd like to make a shopping list of things that I'll need, but I know I'll forgot stuff. What are useful/required tools that I need for this job? Thanks,
  5. I've decided on rebuilding the FMX and I'm going to look into overdrive, although I don't know anything about it. I should note that I know very little about transmissions, but I'm going to read other posts in this forum to get a good idea of what to do. Thanks for the help everyone!
  6. That's very interesting and yeah sounds pretty pricey, but I don't think I'll need it after consulting my dad who's done body work in the past on this car. However this may come handy in the future. Thanks for the info!
  7. What is getting the car dipped? I'm not familiar with what that means. Sounds like I just need to take out most components (carpet, seats, etc.) and get an idea of what work needs done on the rust before I jump to conclusions. I've done some patchwork on the floor panels in the past which seemed to be the worst rust spots on the car so far. The only other thing I'm really worried about is rust under panels that I've never looked under. In general there are many tiny "bubbles" on the paint across most of the car, which is why I think the rust may be pretty bad.
  8. Well this is all rather shocking, but great information. Looks like I'll be doing most rust repair myself unless it's not actually as bad as I think it is. Getting another car is not really an option, as this was my first car and I've had it for 10 years now. I'm just at a point where I can put a lot of time and money into making it rust free and good looking.
  9. I've got a partially-restored 73' convertible that was stored outside in Columbus, Ohio for 8-10 years. Eventually I would like to get work done on the body, as there is lots of rust under every body panel. The paint is also getting faded/patchy. I don't really know what all would need to be done to restore it to rust-free. I would expect to pay at least $3000 for a job like that and I'm in a position where I'd be willing to pay a shop to do it. Those of you that have restored mustangs stored in similar climate (same level of rust damage), what kind of work needed to be done and about how much did it cost. Just trying to get an idea of what to expect.
  10. I installed headers, bought my own mufflers, and had a muffler shop do the rest. You can give them all details like pipe diameter, if you want an x-pipe, etc. From what I've read it's just not worth the headache piping up the exhaust on your own.
  11. These knobs are the only ones I've found that fit the "volcano style" handle. These knobs are not sturdy and crack pretty easy if you try to crank the window too hard. Last time I bought these I got 4 extra in case they ever got discontinued.
  12. I've got an FMX with over 120k miles and it's leaky and shifts kind of rough. I've got a few options: -Rebuild FMX -Swap in a C4 or other manual transmission -Swap in AOD transmission I'm planning on adding some power to the engine through a new intake, carb, and maybe cam. Originally I wanted to go with a manual transmission, because I love driving manual cars, feels more engaging. Then I considered sticking with rebuilding the FMX might be the best route for now. Now I'm seeing a lot of cars going to AODs. Any advice, suggestions?
  13. If you don't jack the motor up, you have to jack the whole car up about 3 feet on the front. An extra set of hands is helpful as well.
  14. 73’ 351C 2V, Convertible, Automatic FMX Car was gifted to me from my dads’ college roommate in 2011. My dad remembers driving it around Ohio State. It was sitting outside of a restoration garage in Columbus, OH for ~10 years when we brought it back to Indiana. The convertible top was moldy and the back window was ripped out. There was a dead bird in the front seat, probably from a cat living in there. During that winter, I helped my dad restore it to driving condition. Here’s a summarized list of what was done: - New Fuel tank - Popped intake off and cleaned area - Replaced lifters - Replaced some bent push rods - Rebuilt carb - Replaced fuel pump - Rebuilt power steering (never again) - Replaced water pump w/ refurb water pump - Replaced cracked exhaust manifold - Replaced spark plugs - New brake lines (custom by my dad) and new front calipers, etc. - New air shocks - New convertible top - Rebuilt heater core - Patched up a few rust spots on front left fender and repainted (color not quite matching) - New 4-speaker stereo system After getting it to a drivable point, I drove it for a few years in highschool and college and put it away in my dad’s barn every winter. Drove it ~10,000 miles since 2011. One time I also managed to drive an hour home without brakes only to have my dad tell me that the problem was I didn’t have brake fluid… Since then (2016) I’ve done the following: - Patched up floor pans w/ sheet metal - New Carpet, floor mats - Replaced convertible top front seal. Pretty sure I did this wrong because it still leaks a bit. - Pertronics ignitor, new ignition coil, starter solenoid and wrapped foil/foam insulator around fuel line next to carb (Woohoo no more failure to start w/ hot engine). - New exhaust system after it cracked off around muffler. 2.25” w/ Hooker longtube headers, Dynomax mufflers (the idea was that I would upgrade carb, intake to support headers’ pull). - Replaced rear-main seal to fix slow oil leak, replaced oil pump, cleaned and repainted oil pan. - Replaced sway bar bushings. Definitely did something wrong here. After briefly driving it a few months ago there was much more play in steering than with old bushings. - Repaired seat bottom metal frame. Cracked where the seat back meets the bottom and I didn’t notice until someone told me I looked like I was driving like a gangster. - Replaced window crank knobs about 100 times Now I’m at a point where I’ve graduated from college and working a full-time job. I’m looking to put some serious cash into it to bring it from fair condition to great condition. I want to be driving it to work once or twice a week and give it some upgrades to give it a little more power. Here’s the following work that I’m considering: - Body: There is a concerning amount of rust pretty much everywhere under the body. I’m hoping to have someone look at it and tell me what needs to be done to make sure it’s structurally stable. I don’t know if I’m willing to put in the time and money to strip the car to the frame and build from the bottom up. It at least needs a new paint job, as there are large patches of bubbled or faded paint. - Engine: I’ll likely pull the engine. Needs a new radiator and considering one w/ electric fan. New air filter, A/C delete. Considering new intake, carb, camshaft to pair with the headers that were kind of an impulse buy. Considering a T5 swap on the transmission and I’m willing to shell out the cash for it. - Suspension, Brakes, etc.: Need power steering hose (maybe all new power steering). Brakes aren’t great or at least I don’t know what good brakes for this car should feel like. Rear brakes are still drum brakes. Will be getting a new master cylinder at the least. - Wheels: I’ve had vibration at 60-70mph for the last 8 years that I’ve driven the car and I’m almost positive it’s from one of the stock wheels. So I’m planning on getting replacement rims that can still fit the hubcaps, which are in great condition. Right now I won’t be working on the car until mid-February 2020, but I’m putting together a plan and researching my options in the meantime. Any suggestions on the route that I should go are welcome, especially with body-work, as I don’t know much about that area. Pictures are from a few years ago when the paint was still nice.
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