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About jmohring

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    Is that a Mustang?

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    1973 H-code Convertible, 351c 2V, automatic
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  1. Wow this article is exactly what I've been looking for after trying to figure out what cam I needed for the last week. Since I'll get it custom iit also means it will be one of the last components I probably purchase for this car...
  2. Glad I know this now about the engine. I think now I'll be getting it all cleaned then waiting in oil until it's ready to be put back together. I don't think I'll be doing a ground up resto though. I definitely do not have any capability to do that equipment wise. Great info! I don't know much about runout but I'll definitely be looking into it.
  3. Got the engine pulled this past weekend with a lot of help from my dad. Had to make about 5 trips back and forth to different stores to get different tools and equipment. We ended up pulling it with the headers and trans attached with a 2-ton hoist. We took all the pulleys and brackets off, starter, A/C all removed. That A/C is heavy! We probably could have left some of it on, because we had some room to move. Had to cut a power steering tube and a trans tube that I stripped a fitting nut on trying to get it off. Anyways, it’s mounted on a stand and ready to be taken apart. Most of the compone
  4. I'll probably be pulling my engine this weekend and putting it on a stand (will be adding a post to individual projects soon). I've never done this before and years ago I had access to my dads equipment, but that's 4 hours away now. Right now I have the basic tools that most of you have like sockets, wrench, pliers, etc. and other general tools that you would use for more than just automotive work. I don't have things like impact wrench, air compressor, or any specific tools. I'd like to make a shopping list of things that I'll need, but I know I'll forgot stuff. What are useful/required
  5. I've decided on rebuilding the FMX and I'm going to look into overdrive, although I don't know anything about it. I should note that I know very little about transmissions, but I'm going to read other posts in this forum to get a good idea of what to do. Thanks for the help everyone!
  6. That's very interesting and yeah sounds pretty pricey, but I don't think I'll need it after consulting my dad who's done body work in the past on this car. However this may come handy in the future. Thanks for the info!
  7. What is getting the car dipped? I'm not familiar with what that means. Sounds like I just need to take out most components (carpet, seats, etc.) and get an idea of what work needs done on the rust before I jump to conclusions. I've done some patchwork on the floor panels in the past which seemed to be the worst rust spots on the car so far. The only other thing I'm really worried about is rust under panels that I've never looked under. In general there are many tiny "bubbles" on the paint across most of the car, which is why I think the rust may be pretty bad.
  8. Well this is all rather shocking, but great information. Looks like I'll be doing most rust repair myself unless it's not actually as bad as I think it is. Getting another car is not really an option, as this was my first car and I've had it for 10 years now. I'm just at a point where I can put a lot of time and money into making it rust free and good looking.
  9. I've got a partially-restored 73' convertible that was stored outside in Columbus, Ohio for 8-10 years. Eventually I would like to get work done on the body, as there is lots of rust under every body panel. The paint is also getting faded/patchy. I don't really know what all would need to be done to restore it to rust-free. I would expect to pay at least $3000 for a job like that and I'm in a position where I'd be willing to pay a shop to do it. Those of you that have restored mustangs stored in similar climate (same level of rust damage), what kind of work needed to be done and about how
  10. I installed headers, bought my own mufflers, and had a muffler shop do the rest. You can give them all details like pipe diameter, if you want an x-pipe, etc. From what I've read it's just not worth the headache piping up the exhaust on your own.
  11. These knobs are the only ones I've found that fit the "volcano style" handle. These knobs are not sturdy and crack pretty easy if you try to crank the window too hard. Last time I bought these I got 4 extra in case they ever got discontinued.
  12. I've got an FMX with over 120k miles and it's leaky and shifts kind of rough. I've got a few options: -Rebuild FMX -Swap in a C4 or other manual transmission -Swap in AOD transmission I'm planning on adding some power to the engine through a new intake, carb, and maybe cam. Originally I wanted to go with a manual transmission, because I love driving manual cars, feels more engaging. Then I considered sticking with rebuilding the FMX might be the best route for now. Now I'm seeing a lot of cars going to AODs. Any advice, suggestions?
  13. If you don't jack the motor up, you have to jack the whole car up about 3 feet on the front. An extra set of hands is helpful as well.
  14. 73’ 351C 2V, Convertible, Automatic FMX Car was gifted to me from my dads’ college roommate in 2011. My dad remembers driving it around Ohio State. It was sitting outside of a restoration garage in Columbus, OH for ~10 years when we brought it back to Indiana. The convertible top was moldy and the back window was ripped out. There was a dead bird in the front seat, probably from a cat living in there. During that winter, I helped my dad restore it to driving condition. Here’s a summarized list of what was done: - New Fuel tank - Popped intake off and cle
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