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Posts posted by jmohring

  1. 18 hours ago, Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:

    Glad to see you get started on the build.
    I would make a couple of suggestions. I am 72 and am an original owner of a 1973 Mach 1. I also have several convertibles. On mistake I see too many make is to work on the engine first. That is exciting and goes really fast compared to the chassis / body. I have bought several failed builds in the past. One is a 1972 Q code vert and the other a 1973 Grande H code. The original owner built the engine and transmission for the Q code vert first. Engine has been on stand for over 10 years and will be torn down and built again. The transmission might be ok. The Grande he had torn engine down sent to be bored and had all of the parts to rebuild. He had also pulled the seats and had new foam and seat covers installed.
    The owner of the Q vert then started on the body had it dip striped and needed floor and trunk and both quarters. He got it back to rolling chassis in epoxy primer and went through a divorce and sold it to me. He had $16,000 in receipts and I got everything for $5,500. I got the totally rust free grande with the new seats and car is loaded with great options for $1,000
    I would suggest you send the engine out and have it cleaned and checked for cracks and once you determine everything is good oil up and put in plastic bags and let it set.

    Take the chassis to a frame shop before you tear it down. Let them hang gauges and put the chassis back to zero. A  Mustang can get the chassis bent by jacking wrong or driving across a twist in the driving surface. The frame shop I use has highway patrol cars all the time due to them crossing the median and twisting the chassis. Those are much stronger than a Mustang full of rust. Then get you a chassis JIG to put the chassis when you are removing and replacing panels. Some of the failed projects I looked at were put together so out of alignment they were junk or parts car at best.
    If you have rusty front floors you have a bad cowl. Rusty rear floors in rear are roof rail leaks or convertible top leaks. Trunk rust is usually tail light leaks.
    You see the TV shows and they do a 7 day wonder build you cannot believe all they show. In a talented trained shop a fully ground up restoration will pass 2,000 hours easily.
    Back to the engine. If you build it and it sits very long the break in lube dries up or if you turn it by hand to keep the valve springs from sitting you will wipe the break in lube off and engine will eat the cam and lifters as soon as you   crank it.
    Great to see you jump in and we have several members in deep ground up builds right now. One even attended the local technical school and took welding course. Doing a car is not rocket science but if you do not do it right nothing fit and you will have all kinds of issues and give up like so many do.

    Food for thought.

    Glad I know this now about the engine. I think now I'll be getting it all cleaned then waiting in oil until it's ready to be put back together. I don't think I'll be doing a ground up resto though. I definitely do not have any capability to do that equipment wise.


    17 hours ago, Don C said:

    I wouldn't start replacing your wheels before verifying it is a wheel. It easy to check the lateral and radial runout. You may have a bent rear axle. If you do have runout on a rear wheel, swap it for one from the front that has already passed the test, to see if the runout goes away. Then verify by measuring the runout on the axle flange, this will require a dial indicator.

    Great info! I don't know much about runout but I'll definitely be looking into it.

  2. Got the engine pulled this past weekend with a lot of help from my dad. Had to make about 5 trips back and forth to different stores to get different tools and equipment. We ended up pulling it with the headers and trans attached with a 2-ton hoist. We took all the pulleys and brackets off, starter, A/C all removed. That A/C is heavy! We probably could have left some of it on, because we had some room to move. Had to cut a power steering tube and a trans tube that I stripped a fitting nut on trying to get it off. Anyways, it’s mounted on a stand and ready to be taken apart. Most of the components are waiting to be degreased. I’ve labeled anything that I can’t keep on the part. I also only took pictures of the brackets, so hopefully that’s enough to know how they go back on.






    Right now the plan is to get the engine apart, put it back together with upgrades, and paint it. Then I’ll look at the body and other components while the engine is out and see what actually needs done there.

    See this link for info on what’s already been done to the car:



    And I’ve changed some things on the list of work that I want to do on it:

    -Engine/components: New intake, carb, camshaft (already have headers). Have the heads done at a local machine shop that was recommended to me. I’d like to get at least 250hp after these upgrades, but not sure if I’ll need to do more to get there. Also needs a new radiator and replacement fan (thing makes so much noise you can’t hear the engine idle over it).  New air filter, A/C delete, replacing some tubes and wires, etc.

    -Transmission: Rebuild the FMX trans. Depending on how that goes I might just look around for a cheap AOD, but I’m going to give it a shot.

    -Body: There is a concerning amount of rust under the body and possibly on structural areas (floor pans), so likely some repair work to be done there. Once I’m confident it’s structurally sound and the rust is under control, I’ll have it painted.

    -Suspension, Brakes, etc.: Need power steering hoses (maybe all new power steering).  Brakes aren’t great or at least I don’t know what good brakes for this car should feel like.  Rear brakes are still drum brakes.  Will be getting a new master cylinder at the least and I’ll look into the better options to get better braking power.

    -Wheels:  I’ve had vibration at 60-70mph for as long as I can remember and I’m almost positive it’s from one of the stock wheels.  So I’m thinking replacement rims that can still fit the hubcaps, which are in great condition.

    -Interior: Drivers seat is getting pretty torn up and I really want to keep these original. The rear quarter panels paint is peeling and those need refinished. Door window crank mechanism on passenger side has always felt gummed up or something. Probably need to clean out those areas and freshen up the crank mechanisms.


    Any suggestions on the route that I should go are welcome. I’m still undecided on a few things, but I’ll change things as I go. I’m also trying to get parts ordered well in advance to account for the current state of the supply chain…

  3. I'll probably be pulling my engine this weekend and putting it on a stand (will be adding a post to individual projects soon). I've never done this before and years ago I had access to my dads equipment, but that's 4 hours away now. Right now I have the basic tools that most of you have like sockets, wrench, pliers, etc. and other general tools that you would use for more than just automotive work. I don't have things like impact wrench, air compressor, or any specific tools. I'd like to make a shopping list of things that I'll need, but I know I'll forgot stuff.

    What are useful/required tools that I need for this job?


  4. On 12/5/2019 at 9:37 PM, Don C said:

    The C4 is an automatic.


    Another option is a Gear Vendor overdrive behind your rebuilt FMX or a C6.

    I've decided on rebuilding the FMX and I'm going to look into overdrive, although I don't know anything about it.

    I should note that I know very little about transmissions, but I'm going to read other posts in this forum to get a good idea of what to do.

    Thanks for the help everyone!

  5. On 9/6/2020 at 9:18 AM, Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:

    Here is a link to the shop in North Carolina that does dip striping. http://chem-strip.com/portfolio/

    You have to take every thing out of the body. All that you send is the bare chassis with no interior, no suspension and no drive train. Windows all our but doors can stay on. You will get  clean phosphate coated body back. You would need and enclosed trailer to haul and a way to get the chassis in and out of trailer. 

    That's very interesting and yeah sounds pretty pricey, but I don't think I'll need it after consulting my dad who's done body work in the past on this car. However this may come handy in the future.  Thanks for the info!

  6. What is getting the car dipped?  I'm not familiar with what that means.  

    Sounds like I just need to take out most components (carpet, seats, etc.) and get an idea of what work needs done on the rust before I jump to conclusions. I've done some patchwork on the floor panels in the past which seemed to be the worst rust spots on the car so far. The only other thing I'm really worried about is rust under panels that I've never looked under.  In general there are many tiny "bubbles" on the paint across most of the car, which is why I think the rust may be pretty bad.

  7. Well this is all rather shocking, but great information. Looks like I'll be doing most rust repair myself unless it's not actually as bad as I think it is. Getting another car is not really an option, as this was my first car and I've had it for 10 years now.  I'm just at a point where I can put a lot of time and money into making it rust free and good looking.

  8. I've got a partially-restored 73' convertible that was stored outside in Columbus, Ohio for 8-10 years. Eventually I would like to get work done on the body, as there is lots of rust under every body panel. The paint is also getting faded/patchy. I don't really know what all would need to be done to restore it to rust-free. I would expect to pay at least $3000 for a job like that and I'm in a position where I'd be willing to pay a shop to do it.

    Those of you that have restored mustangs stored in similar climate (same level of rust damage), what kind of work needed to be done and about how much did it cost.

    Just trying to get an idea of what to expect.

  9. I installed headers, bought my own mufflers, and had a muffler shop do the rest.  You can give them all details like pipe diameter, if you want an x-pipe, etc. From what I've read it's just not worth the headache piping up the exhaust on your own.

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  10. Dug into this a bit. Here is what I did to my window cranks today. Sourced a different knob than what I originally bought to fit....'cause they don't.

    Parts and info listed further down. Not perfect, not high quality, but looks better than nothing.


    From L to R, New knob, Original Ford knob, and what I bought first as a 68-73 knob with the solid back.





    Dry fit looked good.










    Pressed knob onto handle with the provided stud and wave washer and..............TOTAL FAIL.


    Knob did not seat fully and was a little tough to turn. Measured the other stud and depth of knob stem hole, found the stud is too long and the stem expands when inserting so it drags in the handle. Tore that knob off and started over with the other knob I had. (I got 2)



    So the second attempt I cut stud shorter by 1/8" or so, also drilled out the knob stem, carefully, by hand, with a 13/64 twist bit and pressed again. Pressed a little at a time and checked often so as not to get it so tight that the knob wouldn't turn. Just enough to push against the wave washer.


    Much Better.









    Here are the replacement knobs I used. Listed to fit early/mid 70's F Series Trucks. 

    Dorman #76943. 

    These WILL NOT pass the test of time like originals, but I can replace 2 knobs for less than 10 bucks. The stems and inner cores are plastic and not metal as the originals. Parts are listed as coming as a set of one black and one clear per pack. I bought 3 packs and all contained 2 clear/semi-clear knobs. Local O'Rieilley's store had in stock for $5.50/Pack of 2. Amazon has them down to $4.50/Pack of 2. I bought extras for when these fail. Beware...some places show them up over $10.00 plus shipping.




    These knobs are the only ones I've found that fit the "volcano style" handle.  These knobs are not sturdy and crack pretty easy if you try to crank the window too hard.  Last time I bought these I got 4 extra in case they ever got discontinued.

  11. I've got an FMX with over 120k miles and it's leaky and shifts kind of rough.  I've got a few options:

    -Rebuild FMX

    -Swap in a C4 or other manual transmission

    -Swap in AOD transmission


    I'm planning on adding some power to the engine through a new intake, carb, and maybe cam.  Originally I wanted to go with a manual transmission, because I love driving manual cars, feels more engaging.  Then I considered sticking with rebuilding the FMX might be the best route for now.  Now I'm seeing a lot of cars going to AODs.  Any advice, suggestions?

  12. 73’ 351C 2V, Convertible, Automatic FMX





    Car was gifted to me from my dads’ college roommate in 2011.  My dad remembers driving it around Ohio State.  It was sitting outside of a restoration garage in Columbus, OH for ~10 years when we brought it back to Indiana.  The convertible top was moldy and the back window was ripped out.  There was a dead bird in the front seat, probably from a cat living in there.  During that winter, I helped my dad restore it to driving condition.  Here’s a summarized list of what was done:

    -         New Fuel tank

    -         Popped intake off and cleaned area

    -         Replaced lifters

    -         Replaced some bent push rods

    -         Rebuilt carb

    -         Replaced fuel pump

    -         Rebuilt power steering (never again)

    -         Replaced water pump w/ refurb water pump

    -         Replaced cracked exhaust manifold

    -         Replaced spark plugs

    -         New brake lines (custom by my dad) and new front calipers, etc.

    -         New air shocks

    -         New convertible top

    -         Rebuilt heater core

    -         Patched up a few rust spots on front left fender and repainted (color not quite matching)

    -         New 4-speaker stereo system


    After getting it to a drivable point, I drove it for a few years in highschool and college and put it away in my dad’s barn every winter.  Drove it ~10,000 miles since 2011.  One time I also managed to drive an hour home without brakes only to have my dad tell me that the problem was I didn’t have brake fluid… 


    Since then (2016) I’ve done the following:

    -         Patched up floor pans w/ sheet metal

    -         New Carpet, floor mats

    -         Replaced convertible top front seal.  Pretty sure I did this wrong because it still leaks a bit.

    -         Pertronics ignitor, new ignition coil, starter solenoid and wrapped foil/foam insulator around fuel line next to carb (Woohoo no more failure to start w/ hot engine).

    -         New exhaust system after it cracked off around muffler.  2.25” w/ Hooker longtube headers, Dynomax mufflers (the idea was that I would upgrade carb, intake to support headers’ pull).

    -         Replaced rear-main seal to fix slow oil leak, replaced oil pump, cleaned and repainted oil pan.

    -         Replaced sway bar bushings.  Definitely did something wrong here.  After briefly driving it a few months ago there was much more play in steering than with old bushings.

    -         Repaired seat bottom metal frame.  Cracked where the seat back meets the bottom and I didn’t notice until someone told me I looked like I was driving like a gangster.

    -         Replaced window crank knobs about 100 times


    Now I’m at a point where I’ve graduated from college and working a full-time job.  I’m looking to put some serious cash into it to bring it from fair condition to great condition.  I want to be driving it to work once or twice a week and give it some upgrades to give it a little more power.  Here’s the following work that I’m considering:


    -         Body: There is a concerning amount of rust pretty much everywhere under the body.  I’m hoping to have someone look at it and tell me what needs to be done to make sure it’s structurally stable.  I don’t know if I’m willing to put in the time and money to strip the car to the frame and build from the bottom up.  It at least needs a new paint job, as there are large patches of bubbled or faded paint. 

    -         Engine: I’ll likely pull the engine.  Needs a new radiator and considering one w/ electric fan.  New air filter, A/C delete.  Considering new intake, carb, camshaft to pair with the headers that were kind of an impulse buy.  Considering a T5 swap on the transmission and I’m willing to shell out the cash for it.

    -         Suspension, Brakes, etc.: Need power steering hose (maybe all new power steering).  Brakes aren’t great or at least I don’t know what good brakes for this car should feel like.  Rear brakes are still drum brakes.  Will be getting a new master cylinder at the least. 

    -         Wheels:  I’ve had vibration at 60-70mph for the last 8 years that I’ve driven the car and I’m almost positive it’s from one of the stock wheels.  So I’m planning on getting replacement rims that can still fit the hubcaps, which are in great condition.


    Right now I won’t be working on the car until mid-February 2020, but I’m putting together a plan and researching my options in the meantime.  Any suggestions on the route that I should go are welcome, especially with body-work, as I don’t know much about that area.  Pictures are from a few years ago when the paint was still nice.

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