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BFH 429

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  • My Car
    70 Maverick Grabber w/351W & Toploader
    71 Mach 1 w/ 429 & T56

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    Northville, MI
  • Region
    Northeast

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  1. Also to allow this thread...I took a look at the Ford shop manual, and it does tell how to actually test the motor for proper operation (current draws etc.). I was a bit surprised about this...I didn't think the manual would get down in the weeds like that.
  2. Bentworker - this is a good pointer, we'll be sure to take a look. Do you know what kind of grease is needed for the insides of the case?
  3. Hey Geoff...yeah, I priced out some replacements, If this unit seems questionable, I'll definitely go that route. Marc
  4. @ C Walker - Yeah, the plan with this car is to takeout on trips - hence the 6 speed. I'll definitely avoid the rain, but I know I'll get caught in it at some point, so this system has to work. I'd like to use an original piece if it's still ok. Maybe I can call one of these remanufactures to see what they recommend for a test. Do you have a wiring diagram for these motors? I think they have four wires. Also, do all Mustangs use 2 speed wiper motors? Marc
  5. Currently in process of installing wiper assembly to my project. I was considering using the old wiper motor, but have no idea of condition, etc. I figured that since it was always meant to work in the elements, these units should not really degrade over time, etc. Does anyone know if these units are problematic or how to test them to see if they are on their way out the door? Marc
  6. Hi guys, I'm moving onto installing the bright work on the project and I'm about to do the drip rails. I'm finding that no-one appears to sell "seals" for inside the drip rail where it meets the body. However, we noticed when these were removed them that there appeared to be old seals from the factory in there (obviously they were all dry rotted and falling apart). They did appear to be seals and not globs of sealer - but was hard to tell because they were so far gone. So, question is - does anyone sell seals for inside the drip rails, or is this a job for Seam Sealer or Butyl?
  7. Yes - I think these posts shed a lot of light. By the sounds of it, adhesive is not needed? I'll admit, I'm a little surprised. I thought for sure the seals would have to be held in place by something like that. I guess that "setting rubber" takes the place?
  8. Hi Guys...moving onto the rear quarter windows on my Mach 1. The seals on it need to be R&R'd. I picked up some new pieces from NPD, but no one I've talked to so far knows how to change these out. If anyone out there has a step-by-step - or better yet a video - I'd love to see... Thx Marc
  9. Here's a pic. The small tube now moves around easily.
  10. Hi guys...starting to get back at working on my project after a lot of delays this past year. Was focusing on the fuel system at the back of the car over the X-mas break and had an issue when installing the fuel tank and filler neck. During install, I had the pressure signal channel of the filler neck (that the pressure signal tube fits into) misaligned to the pressure tube in the tank. Unfortunately, I broke one of the joints on the pressure tube in the tank in the process. This is a spectra re-po tank and for those that are familiar, there is a bracket that holds the tube in position near the middle of the tank, and another - what looks to be - solder joint right where the tube begins it's upward ascent into the filler neck area. It looks like I broke the solder joint. So, now the tube rests on a metal support in the tank, and appears to fit into the filler neck correctly (after I re-installed), but I'm not sure if this is a good idea to leave it this way. Couple questions: 1) Has anyone had this happen and what did you do to fix? 2) Does anyone know if a joint like this can even be fixed? 3) Any recommendations for a shop to fix if possible? Thx. Marc
  11. Well, unfortunately, not really much last year. With the pandemic and everything shut down, had a long lull where I wasn't able to make much progress. Working through things now and expect to make more progress this winter.
  12. Thanks for taking the pic Don...maybe what I need to do is to take a pic of mine and post. Like I was saying...I just can't explain why someone would cut that shrink wrap portion off, it'd be useless once it's cut. When looking at that area, there isn't a single mark from a cutting tool or similar. So, either the person that removed it was a pro, or it came from the factory like that. In any case...I'm looking for replacement sleeves that I can shrink on. My biggest concern was that I wanted to make sure it wasn't supposed to be that way and that covering it wouldn't be a problem. Couple more questions: 1) Do you (or anyone else that may read this) have or know of a service manual for these columns? I'm noticing that the rag at the end is very close to the column housing, and I need to inspect the bearings and wiring. 2) Do they make service parts for these columns (rag joints, bearings, etc.)? 3) Why is that little lever with the eyelet at the end of the column for? I'm assuming it was something to do with a trans lock, but I can't figure out how it worked. None of this stuff was together when I bought my car. Thx.. Marc
  13. How is it possible to remove the cover? It looks like it is permanently attached. I tried looking for a way that my non-tilt sleeve could be removed, and there's no way - unless it was cut off. But why would someone do that?
  14. Hi guys - just purchased a tilt column and I just noticed something when comparing it to my non-tilt column - the lower portion on the tilt (the vanes that are meant to collapse) are not covered, whereas the same area on the non-tilt is covered. Anyone know why? It looks like that area on the non-tilt is a permanent fixture and not meant to be swapped on or off (ie. not a plastic cover that can be swapped around). thx..
  15. I'm not sure if they are...they were in the car when I brought it home. I was thinking maybe these were for a base wheel option?? or maybe a different mustang year that used these...
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