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BFH 429

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Everything posted by BFH 429

  1. I have one. Sent you a PM Hi Rob - tried sending you a reply to the PM, but said your inbox was full?? Anyway, I'll ask it here...what kind of condition is it and does it have all the parts? Anything broken? Does it have the firewall plate?
  2. Hi guys, looking for a tilt steering column for a '71. I also posted an ad in the "wanted to buy" section. I believe there was only one PN for the tilt column and it was common from 71-73. I also believe Cougars from the same years used the same column. Can anyone confirm if what I have stated above is correct and also if you have or know of one that you're willing to part with? Thx.. Marc
  3. Looking for a tilt steering column for a 71 Mustang. I believe the columns were all the same for all the years, and there was only one PN. Also, I think 71-73 Cougars used the same column. If you have one or know of one - I'd love to hear from you. Marc
  4. OK - sounds good - I appreciate that. Car went to paint today, so, when it comes back and we get the engine back in, we can have a look. Back to the hood locks...took a close look under hood and saw that the cut outs on the inner side of the hood are no where near the rad support - they're about 8" or so forward of it. Was there a bracket or something that comes off the rad support and picks up the hood locks? Or, am I mistaken in assuming that where the cutouts are on the hood inner is where the locks are supposed to go? Marc, SOOOO glad you finally got your car to paint. It's been a long process finding the right guy, so I really hope it turns outs as you want. When you get closer to detailing, let me know if you require any other info re black-outs etc. I think by now we all have that detail figured out! As for hood clearance, I'll need to give my friend a call to arrange day and time. On the hood locks, I'd buy the original tooling parts kit that Don offered. Are you replacing the entire hood that already has the holes or are you going to have them cut in? Geoff. Geoff. We're just going to have them cut in.
  5. Good decision Marc! There is no doubt in my mind that the locks do have function. a, to hold the hood corners and b, to maintain the all important seal between the hood plenum and the air cleaner. A leak there will affect the air flow and somewhat defeat the purpose of the Ram Air intakes. NPD list them from original tooling and manufacturer. Geoff. Marc, sent you an email regards hood clearance. I know someone with a J code, we can measure his intake height. OK - sounds good - I appreciate that. Car went to paint today, so, when it comes back and we get the engine back in, we can have a look. Back to the hood locks...took a close look under hood and saw that the cut outs on the inner side of the hood are no where near the rad support - they're about 8" or so forward of it. Was there a bracket or something that comes off the rad support and picks up the hood locks? Or, am I mistaken in assuming that where the cutouts are on the hood inner is where the locks are supposed to go?
  6. I set it up so that my driveline would maintain 1-3 degrees with a 2 pass loading condition. With that set-up, the tunnel sheet metal was pretty good, but the one cross member had to be modified. I think the fit's about as good as I can get it at this point.
  7. ...well I'll be. Thanks for this tip cleveland coupe. When I bought the catcher, I was told it would fit any ram air and they were all the same. However, this time around I drilled down another level and called Dynacorn. They were able to confirm - after a few checks - that this rain catcher is in fact for a 351 application. They were also able to confirm that they do not make one for a 429 application. and since I see the same PN from almost everyone, leads me to believe this is the only one on the market. Looks like I'm modifying the one I have!
  8. Thanks for all the responses on this guys - I think I am now leaning more towards adding them over omitting. So, next question, who makes the best kits and are there instructions for how and where to put the holes? Marc
  9. I think they actually do provide a function, which is why they ALWAYS came with Ram-Air when the scoops were open. My car was original non-ram air and no hood locks. It had the block plates in the hood scoops. In my high school years I came across a Ram-Air hood and system and converted the car. When prepping for paint one summer I ran most of the summer with the hod locks out and the scoops open. I noticed a lot of extra vibration at highway speed on the hood. After a while I noticed that the hood latch support brackets had torn near the lower mounting bolts at the core support. The hood would lift about 1/4 inch in the latch. I figured the open scoops with no locks added enough up-force and vibration to fail the hood latch when the twist locks were not present to help retain and stabilize. Had another friend in high school who ran his with open scoops and no hood pins or twist locks. His latch let go one night on the highway and popped the hood open at 70 MPH. It trashed the hood by burying it into the lower edge of the windshield and upper cowl. Of course it destroyed the hinges too. Those are my thoughts and examples If you have open scoops you should use the twist locks. They DO function to hold and stabilize the front of our long hoods. kcmash Thanks kcmash!! This is exactly what I was looking for! I'm an engineer by profession, and short of asking someone if they have ever taken pressure gradient measurements along the topside of the hood, this answer gives me a very clear mental visual of where the low pressure spots likely are with this hood. I was always suspicious of the front portion at the corners, and what you're saying seems to corroborate that. I saw a similar thing with my 1970 Maverick drag car when I took the first couple of rips down the quarter. Solution there was to adjust the hood latch down a bit and tighten up on the bumpers. It always It always seemed odd to me that in 71, these "fancy new" locks were developed and offered direct from the factory. They usually don't do stuff like that unless there is a need - and they must have seen a need. I'm sold...adding the locks. So, next question, who offers the best kits, and is there a guide out there on how and where to cut the holes?
  10. Hi guys - another question - In process of taking a plain-jane 71 Fastback - and converting it into a 429 Mach 1. Project is pretty far along, and towards the end of last year, we fitted the 429 Thunder jet into the bay prior to making the headers, custom mount brackets, etc. The overall package includes an SFI bell housing mated to a Tremec T-56 6 speed. The process of fitting this combo to the car involved us making a small rolling jack stand, getting everything into the best position we could before fabbing the mounts and headers. Problem was - when we dropped the repo rain-catcher (w/seal) onto the carb, the hood would not sit down fully in the rear (front latched no problem). This engine currently has the stock heads, intake and carb, so I'm thinking this should be pretty close to what the final combo will be with the motorsport heads, Edelbrock intake etc. There is about .5" of clearance between the stock oil pan and the crossmember, so, I don't want to cheat that anymore. The combo is dead nuts perfect in the X and Y direction - made sure of that - it lines directly with the center of the plenum. I have not tried to work the seal to see if that will alleviate the issue. Several questions to this one: - Has anyone else seen this issue when mating a "Thunderjet" to a 71 Mustang? - Were the oil pans different for mustangs - ie. shallower (I believe the blocks were identical)? This engine is out of a T-Bird. - What has anyone else done to correct this? Barring any stunning revelations, I'm likely going to have to work the seal and possibly even have to modify my rain catcher to sit deeper on the carb. Thx..
  11. Hi guys - So, I think I'm finally may be in the home stretch of getting a painter to paint my car. It's been a long and broken road to say the least..had to pull the project from the last guy due to some serious disagreements. I'm behind about a year. Anyway..before I bring the car in, there are a few final things I have to button up - and one of those is the issue of twist locks for Ram Air Hoods. My car will be a 460 mated to a Tremec-T56 with functioning ram air, etc. This is not a numbers matching car, so, I can cheat a little on correctness etc. My hood inner does have the provisions for the locks (ie. holes), but the outer has not been cut. To be honest, I really like the look of cars without the locks - I think it gives the hood a cleaner look. However, I understand the importance of the locks for extra hold down capacity. This car will not be a trailer queen, so, it will see some high speed exposure (at the track and I'm sure during the occasional street duel). Question to 'yall - what experiences do you guys have either way? Put it this way - if I get a bunch of responses telling me that the ram air hood with only the latch is not reliable - I'll likely add the locks. Likewise, if everyone says they have never had issues, I will likely forego. Appreciate the feedback..
  12. No...I'm converting a Plain Jane 302 sportsroof into the car I would have bought off the line in 71. I didn't want a numbers matching car because those cars cost a fortune and you can't make any mods without killing the value. Also, finding a car that has all of what I wanted would have been impossible...so...
  13. No...I'm converting a Plain Jane 302 sportsroof into the car I would have bought off the line in 71. I didn't want a numbers matching car because those cars cost a fortune and you can't make any mods without killing the value. Also, finding a car that has all of what I wanted would have been impossible...so...
  14. Car in grabber "prime" right now...waiting on my painter to complete a prior project and then she's going to paint. Should get the call anyway now.. William Shenstone
  15. Hi David - thanks so much for letting me know...been thinking about it for the past few days and I think I may try and use a 79-94 Fox body convolute instead. Reason being - I'm likely going to use newer window regulators, PDL's, non-OEM speakers etc. for the door re-builds. So, that is likely going to drive me to a custom wiring harness anyway...and I don't want to thrash a nice OEM set of door wiring like you have here. I will definitely keep these in mind however, if I find I need to revert back to the OEM method. Thx!!
  16. Hi Geoff, yes, I finally joined. There's no way I could have gone through this entire build without finally becoming a member. Thanks for the help! You're most welcome. The help you can get from the great guys on here will blow your mind. The PM feature is very useful when you need to communicate privately to make deals or arrangements. Does BFH mean what I think it means? Big F'n Hammer!!? Your car will certainly be that when it's done. Geoff. Yep it does. When I bought the car, it had no engine. When we were walking through the sellers pole barn, I noticed the 429 TJ from another project. He looked at me and said "you want that big f'n thing moving your car?". Sold...
  17. Are your cars 71's or fox bodies? What kind of condition are the parts in?
  18. The seat cushions for sale are mine also. Do you need the doors or cushions?
  19. Hi - I've got a set of 71 doors that I'm trying to sell. Currently have them listed on Craigslist. Link is below. Let me know if you are interested..located in the Northville MI area. Asking 200 obo. Need a little work down low, but pretty straight and solid otherwise. https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/pts/d/1971-mustang-doors/6603879330.html
  20. Hi Geoff, yes, I finally joined. There's no way I could have gone through this entire build without finally becoming a member. Thanks for the help!
  21. Tremendous help..thanks Don! Any idea of Ford still sells these new? I'm working with a local dealer to find out if I can still buy the 79-93 Mustang parts out of their supply base. So far no luck - but the dealer guy I have been working with has been having trouble ID'ing the part number, so we have to get that straight first. Understand these are outside of the "10 year window" for service fulfillment requirements, however, I find that sometimes dealers still supply odds and ends like this. As an example, I am still able to buy a new brake light switch for my 70 Maverick. Was never expecting that...
  22. Hi guys...I'm building a Grabber Lime 429...and am adding door speakers to the car. My doors (and A-pillars) currently do not have holes for the wiring convolute, so I need to add. I have pics of how this is done, but if anyone can provide specifics to the following, I'd appreciate: 1) Dimensions for holes and hole locations 2) Where to buy wiring convolute parts (according part that goes form door to A-Pillar) thx!
  23. Hi all, recently joined this site. I'm building a 71 Mach 1 with a 429. Going to paint next week, will be grabber lime. I'll post some pics once the color gets shot. Just wanted to introduce myself. Looking forward to sharing the progress! :cool:
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