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rvrtrash last won the day on May 16 2020

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About rvrtrash

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  • My Car
    1971 Boss 351, 1969 Fairlane 500 Conv., 1965 Sunbeam Tiger


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    Spirit Lake, Id
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  1. I think if I was going to do something with a flat hood, I'd go for the '70-'72 Plymouth air grabber hood scoop. I always thought they were kind of cool.
  2. Back in the 70's, I had an aftermarket speed control on my Mach 1. It was the type that came with the 4 magnets you tied to the driveline and a sensor that mounted next to the driveline and picked up the magnets. I thought that was a BS way of doing it, so got a speed sensor for a '70 Mustang or Cougar from a wrecking yard (it mounts behind the speedometer, the speedo cable goes in one end and a short piece of cable comes out the other and connects to the speedometer), and wired the sensor wires into that. I then removed the ashtray from my console (didn't smoke so didn't need it) and put the control module under the ashtray door. Worked perfectly, was completely sanitary and no one saw it. Steve
  3. Actually, the dual point system should require less maintenance. The purpose of dual point, if I'm correct, is to make the dwell time more accurate over time by reducing the wear on the contact points. They are offset slightly so one set of points gets the arcing from opening/ breaking the circuit and the other set gets the arcing from closing, so both last longer. They also change the dwell time, since they're offset, but that's another issue than the maintenance standpoint. An electronic ignition, Pertronix, factory, etc., dispenses with points, so wear of the contact foot and arcing are eliminated. I'm not familiar with the Pertronix 1281DV, but can't imagine what advantage it would provide. At least, that's always been my understanding. Others can chime in and correct me if they want.
  4. I'm the opposite. I grew up in a small(ish) town in central Washington and we were dirt poor after my Dad took off. We moved every couple of years and even lived in a converted chicken coop for a while. I worked my tail off from the age of 12 (you could do that back then) and am now retired and have a nice house on 20 acres of trees in north Idaho. I imagine the places we lived have probably been torn down by now, but wouldn't go back to any of them on a bet.
  5. My Boss was sold new at Foothills Ford in Bellevue, Wa. I went to the county when I was in the area once and got the old plans for the building and site location, along with some pictures from the mid '60's. I then went to the dealership (It's now a Volkswagen dealer) and received permission to take current pictures of the building. If anyone else has a Foothills Ford car, and wants copies, PM me your email and I'll send it along. Steve
  6. Interesting. I liked fooling around with cars and became an electronic technician. Steve
  7. It says you can't receive messages. Can you send a PM with another contact method?
  8. Most 460's are truck engines and built more for torque than horsepower, so you probably wouldn't get a big horsepower gain. If you go to a 460, you should also change the transmission to one with big input and output shafts, and the tail shaft would have to be the right length for a Mustang. The driveline yoke will be different for the big output shaft. You'll need a different radiator, and should go heavier front springs for the extra weight. If you have Ram Air, the air cleaner is different, IIRC. For no real horsepower gain, putting the extra weight on the front end, which will affect handling, and the expense of changing everything else out, I wouldn't bother. Steve
  9. The 70 Maverick Grabbers' had side stripes like that, and a hood with no scoops. There was nothing that said "Grabber" until '71, but the VIN was different and they had a small spoiler as part of the trunk lid. I had one in the Grabber Blue color like that one probably is, and still miss that car. I was stopped in a turn lane and a guy doing 60 rear ended me.
  10. I thought I'd try to find something on the original article I read so many pre-internet years ago. I found this, and although it is in reference to newer cars, the basics are the same. https://www.americanmuscle.com/understanding-mustang-air-intakes.html Not a huge gain, but a gain none the less.
  11. Just my observations. The snorkel does provide warm air from the manifold when starting. Engines like warm air to atomize the gas better when starting cold. Once the engine warms up, the engine heat itself will atomize fuel, and the snorkel valve closes off the manifold and opens to the engine bay. Under normal driving conditions, the warm air from the engine bay, drawn through the snorkel, doesn't affect engine performance to a noticeable degree. You would seldom get above 2500 rpm in daily driving. I put headers on my former Mach 1 and removed the stove pipe from the manifold. I live in a cold climate, like you, and in the fall/winter/early spring, it was very "cold blooded". It did not like to run very well until the engine temp came up. Under wide open throttle, the ram air valves open to the outside air. The cooler air creates a denser fuel/air charge (less atomization), which translates to more available power. If I remember correctly, I read somewhere many years ago, that the ram air provided an additional 11 hp, but I don't recall the elevation or air temperature that number was based on. My recommendation would be to leave the snorkel in place, and if you have headers, install the fitting that goes over the front pipe to hook the stove up. Steve
  12. It's been a while, but if I recall, there is a connector in the A pillar. Steve
  13. 30/06 Springfield cartridge, developed in 1906.
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