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rvrtrash

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Everything posted by rvrtrash

  1. It sounds like you really had your wits about you during the accident. Sorry to hear it happened, and I also with you a speedy recovery with no long term pain. Steve
  2. I have a 4 post and like it. It has removable casters so I can roll it around the shop if I need to. Cost: If you buy a more expensive one, like a Bendpak, you get a quality unit that's well known and used by a lot of professionals. I bought a Direct Lift brand more than 15 years ago because of cost (didn't have deep enough pockets) and haven't had any issues, but it also doesn't get used every day, several times a day. Clearance: You want to determine the height of your ceiling (at the door opener or other obstructions on the ceiling) and the height of the tallest vehicle you expect to put on the hoist. If you get a two post, the cross bar can't be higher than the ceiling or anything that might be below the ceiling where the cross bar will be. Add at least another foot for clearance on either style. That's the highest you can go with your lift. Safety Issues: You want to make sure the locks are good quality. If you're under it and it falls, your day gets ugly in a hurry. Check for online reviews, other than on the manufacturer website. If you buy a 2 post, you'll want to cut the concrete under each post and pour reinforced footings. The size of them will be determined by the lift capacity of the hoist you get. If you buy a 4 post, I would recommend a 6" thick floor. Some lifts may say they work with a standard 4", but you're putting a lot of weight on 4 small pads, so you may crack the concrete. PS. I've also seen several pictures, and one actual incident in a Costco service bay, of cars falling off two post lifts that had the arms placed incorrectly or the vehicle wasn't balanced correctly.
  3. Unfortunately it wasn't NOS. It was used and ugly, but was a real rev limiter, with the "right" date code range. I have a bead blast cabinet so cleaned it with glass beads and re-stamped it. I don't even know if it works because I haven't started the restoration yet, but figured I couldn't go very wrong for $350. Steve
  4. It took me forever to find the correct rev limiter for my car, at a price that didn't cause a heart attack. Full disclosure, I did have a stamp made to "refresh" the original that was in pretty poor shape.
  5. If I recall, there is a bolt that you loosen and the center shaft of the column is adjustable. You may have pushed the shaft in a little when you took it out, and it needs to be extended again. Steve
  6. I think if I was going to do something with a flat hood, I'd go for the '70-'72 Plymouth air grabber hood scoop. I always thought they were kind of cool.
  7. Back in the 70's, I had an aftermarket speed control on my Mach 1. It was the type that came with the 4 magnets you tied to the driveline and a sensor that mounted next to the driveline and picked up the magnets. I thought that was a BS way of doing it, so got a speed sensor for a '70 Mustang or Cougar from a wrecking yard (it mounts behind the speedometer, the speedo cable goes in one end and a short piece of cable comes out the other and connects to the speedometer), and wired the sensor wires into that. I then removed the ashtray from my console (didn't smoke so didn't need it) and put the control module under the ashtray door. Worked perfectly, was completely sanitary and no one saw it. Steve
  8. Actually, the dual point system should require less maintenance. The purpose of dual point, if I'm correct, is to make the dwell time more accurate over time by reducing the wear on the contact points. They are offset slightly so one set of points gets the arcing from opening/ breaking the circuit and the other set gets the arcing from closing, so both last longer. They also change the dwell time, since they're offset, but that's another issue than the maintenance standpoint. An electronic ignition, Pertronix, factory, etc., dispenses with points, so wear of the contact foot and arcing are eliminated. I'm not familiar with the Pertronix 1281DV, but can't imagine what advantage it would provide. At least, that's always been my understanding. Others can chime in and correct me if they want.
  9. I'm the opposite. I grew up in a small(ish) town in central Washington and we were dirt poor after my Dad took off. We moved every couple of years and even lived in a converted chicken coop for a while. I worked my tail off from the age of 12 (you could do that back then) and am now retired and have a nice house on 20 acres of trees in north Idaho. I imagine the places we lived have probably been torn down by now, but wouldn't go back to any of them on a bet.
  10. My Boss was sold new at Foothills Ford in Bellevue, Wa. I went to the county when I was in the area once and got the old plans for the building and site location, along with some pictures from the mid '60's. I then went to the dealership (It's now a Volkswagen dealer) and received permission to take current pictures of the building. If anyone else has a Foothills Ford car, and wants copies, PM me your email and I'll send it along. Steve
  11. Interesting. I liked fooling around with cars and became an electronic technician. Steve
  12. It says you can't receive messages. Can you send a PM with another contact method?
  13. Most 460's are truck engines and built more for torque than horsepower, so you probably wouldn't get a big horsepower gain. If you go to a 460, you should also change the transmission to one with big input and output shafts, and the tail shaft would have to be the right length for a Mustang. The driveline yoke will be different for the big output shaft. You'll need a different radiator, and should go heavier front springs for the extra weight. If you have Ram Air, the air cleaner is different, IIRC. For no real horsepower gain, putting the extra weight on the front end, which will affect handling, and the expense of changing everything else out, I wouldn't bother. Steve
  14. The 70 Maverick Grabbers' had side stripes like that, and a hood with no scoops. There was nothing that said "Grabber" until '71, but the VIN was different and they had a small spoiler as part of the trunk lid. I had one in the Grabber Blue color like that one probably is, and still miss that car. I was stopped in a turn lane and a guy doing 60 rear ended me.
  15. I thought I'd try to find something on the original article I read so many pre-internet years ago. I found this, and although it is in reference to newer cars, the basics are the same. https://www.americanmuscle.com/understanding-mustang-air-intakes.html Not a huge gain, but a gain none the less.
  16. Just my observations. The snorkel does provide warm air from the manifold when starting. Engines like warm air to atomize the gas better when starting cold. Once the engine warms up, the engine heat itself will atomize fuel, and the snorkel valve closes off the manifold and opens to the engine bay. Under normal driving conditions, the warm air from the engine bay, drawn through the snorkel, doesn't affect engine performance to a noticeable degree. You would seldom get above 2500 rpm in daily driving. I put headers on my former Mach 1 and removed the stove pipe from the manifold. I live in a cold climate, like you, and in the fall/winter/early spring, it was very "cold blooded". It did not like to run very well until the engine temp came up. Under wide open throttle, the ram air valves open to the outside air. The cooler air creates a denser fuel/air charge (less atomization), which translates to more available power. If I remember correctly, I read somewhere many years ago, that the ram air provided an additional 11 hp, but I don't recall the elevation or air temperature that number was based on. My recommendation would be to leave the snorkel in place, and if you have headers, install the fitting that goes over the front pipe to hook the stove up. Steve
  17. It's been a while, but if I recall, there is a connector in the A pillar. Steve
  18. 30/06 Springfield cartridge, developed in 1906.
  19. The remote trunk release was a dealer option. I've never seen a trunk lid that didn't have a lock cylinder, so it was probably filled in by the P.O. Steve
  20. Just my rule of thumb, I think double pumpers are best on cars with improved air flow (headers, better intake, higher profile cam) and manual transmission. Anything close to stock and/or with an automatic and they tend to bog the engine down when you bury the gas pedal. Steve
  21. Same with me. I showed up one day to check on progress of a car I was having done and the place was dark. I went next door and asked that business what happened, and they told me he folded up a couple of weeks before. I told them my car was in there and the guy said the body shop owner said I might show up. The shop doors were unlocked and my keys were in the ignition. Any one could have taken it. They also hit my hood with a forklift getting their shop equipment out. One year and a lawsuit later, I got my money back.
  22. I have one for all the old Fords I've bought. I haven't bought a "new" one in a long time, so I got mine while they were still free.
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