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jspears

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    73 Mach 1

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    USA
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    South

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  1. I would say more initial timing, it really woke my engine up. I am at 12-14 initial and 26 degrees centrifugal (38-40 total) with 2V open chamber heads. I have a 213,213 cam. my car used to go down the highway at 60 between 2400 and 2500 rpm with 2.75 gears and a FMX 1:1 third gear. I used to have 6 degrees initial and 36 degrees centrifugal advance and the engine was very sluggish to 3000 rpm. you can recurve a ford distributor by following directions below or call Parkland Performance to get a custom curve. http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html I recommend using manifold vacuum advance to keep your engine cool at idle.
  2. I have the ceramic patriot headers for 2v heads. 0-60 is 5.3 with 2v heads, 213,213 cam, performer intake with 1 inch spacer, holley 600 vac secondary. Oh and factory crank, rods and crappy dished cast pistons. Headers are the best bang for the buck and the combo does not have to be wild in my opinion.
  3. I have street or track tubular control arms so the upper control arm is adjustable. I also have the heim joint strut arms and I started out with the strut arms as short as I could get them and it was 6 degrees. I did have to bend part of the car so the lower control arms would clear. I need to adjust the uppers a little more to move the upper ball joint back. I can then lengthen the strut rods by the same amount. I have very stiff coil overs to keep from hitting the lowers on the car. My car doesn't return to center very well but it is only 2.5 turns lock to lock. It stays at center well, though.
  4. Her name is Charity, AKA "Power Banana".
  5. I'm running a stock pump with a Lares 10:1 box. Also has 6 degrees of caster which takes the over assisted feeling out of the steering.
  6. I would "cone" the valve guides for more flow and blend the bowls. Also take a round burr in a drill and remove any casting sand in the chambers, don't polish them just hit the rough looking spots. Also the short side radius on the intakes is very sharp, round it a little. Headers and free flowing exhaust will make massive improvements even with a small cam. I would use the small valves, they are the right size for 2v ports. I have a 2v cleveland with those cast pistons and a cam so small I have to shift at 5000 rpm in a 73 mustang with manual trans and 4.11 rear end. Have to shift into 3rd to get 0-60. I did a 5.65 0-60 with a big backfire in first gear. Should be close to 5.3 with a clean run.
  7. For a complete bracket look at Vintage Air 131351. It's for a 351C. 131351.pdf
  8. Modern Driveline helped me with my manual conversion. I would hesitate to put a T-5 behind a cleveland. Tremec has a new 5 speed out and it supposed to shift like a T56 but be smaller. I originally bought a kit from american powertrain and everything was wrong. Nothing fit. All I could use was the transmission and bellhousing. Modern Driveline saved me with a correct flywheel, clutch and clutch cable.
  9. https://schaeffersoilshop.com/products/0708-006-supreme™-7000-synthetic-plus-racing-oil-15w-40 this is for 6 gallons can find it for less if you look around. Problem with adding zinc is it might not work with the rest of the additive package. Problem with using diesel oil is the additive package has been changed and also diesel oil doesn't handle water very well. Gas and especially ethanol blend makes a lot more water than diesel fuel does and the water gets in the oil.
  10. EGR is easy to delete but you also need to recurve your distributor. In 73, for emissions the ignition timing was retarded at idle. This hurts performance and makes the engine overheat at idle. There is a vacuum switch on the water pump that switches the ignition timing to manifold vacuum at idle when the engine overheats to cool it back down. This is why I always run manifold vacuum advance and never ported advance. I never have any trouble with overheating at idle. I am running 12-15 degrees advance at idle with the vacuum advance unplugged. It seems like its fuel dependent to what it likes. usually around 13. I am running a duraspark distributor with 26 degrees centrifugal advance. I am using a GM HEI module to trigger it. I have an adjustable vacuum advance diaphram and i plug the vacuum line back on and check the idle timing again and adjust that to about 15 degrees more advance than when unplugged. Too little timing makes my exhaust hot, too much gives it a momentary hesitation when I increase throttle, I can't get the engine to knock anymore. http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html My best 0-60 is 5.65 seconds with a big hesitation in first gear due to too much vacuum advance, I cured that but haven't tested it again yet, should be around 5.2. this is with a manual transmission.
  11. some cars ground the horn button to the steering column to make it beep (ours does not!). Some aftermarket horn buttons have a wire spring to short it out that has to be clipped off to use on a 71-73 mustang. I had the same problem with mine and had to clip the spring off and then use electrical tape to insulate the bare parts of it from the very close steering wheel nut.
  12. I bought a kit from american powertrain and everything was wrong, including speedo gear. I am waiting on a new engine install and maybe new wheels and tires... then rear gears and probably converting to an electric speedo.
  13. Lares makes a 10:1 steering gear box for our cars. I have one in mine, it also takes away the progressive rate steering so when you start to turn the wheel the car turns immediately. 2.5 turns lock to lock. I got mine at rockauto.
  14. I think the truetrac is probably the best. Its like having a spool under throttle and an open diff at cruise. I was running 2400 rpm with an FMX (1:1) and kind of big tires, 2.75 rear. Then went to 235/60R15 and my RPM at 60 went to 2500. Now i'm running a .63 final gear with 4.11 and I'm at 2200 RPM at 60mph. Interestingly the tires I have are supposed to be 26.3 inches tall but I have to put in 24.5 to make the calculator work. I would say you would get about 2950 with an auto and 3.25 gears at 60 and 3180 from the 3.50's?
  15. I used a heavy duty fan clutch and had trouble with the belt slipping over 4k rpm. I had a clutch and plastic fan off a 89 ranger with a 2.3L and it bolted up and kept the car cool and doesn't pull enough power to squeal the belt. Even with underdrive pulley and no fan shroud the car stays cool. I think a heavy duty clutch is not necessary because a light duty keeps it cool. (i am running a large radiator though).
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