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jspears

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Posts posted by jspears

  1. I have street or track tubular control arms so the upper control arm is adjustable. I also have the heim joint strut arms and I started out with the strut arms as short as I could get them and it was 6 degrees. I did have to bend part of the car so the lower control arms would clear. I need to adjust the uppers a little more to move the upper ball joint back. I can then lengthen the strut rods by the same amount. I have very stiff coil overs to keep from hitting the lowers on the car. My car doesn't return to center very well but it is only 2.5 turns lock to lock. It stays at center well, though.

     

    On 7/18/2021 at 7:43 AM, Stanglover said:

    I'm just curious, how did you manage to get 6 degrees of castor? I take it you have stock front end components as you didn't mention otherwise. My "front end guy" was only able to get 3 degrees without interference on the LCA. If it IS possible to get more, I'd sure like to get at least 4 degrees as I like to carve corners and would like the center return to be quicker.

     

  2. I would "cone" the valve guides for more flow and blend the bowls. Also take a round burr in a drill and remove any casting sand in the chambers, don't polish them just hit the rough looking spots. Also the short side radius on the intakes is very sharp, round it a little. Headers and free flowing exhaust will make massive improvements even with a small cam. I would use the small valves, they are the right size for 2v ports. I have a 2v cleveland with those cast pistons and a cam so small I have to shift at 5000 rpm in a 73 mustang with manual trans and 4.11 rear end. Have to shift into 3rd to get 0-60. I did a 5.65 0-60 with a big backfire in first gear. Should be close to 5.3 with a clean run.

  3. Modern Driveline helped me with my manual conversion. I would hesitate to put a T-5 behind a cleveland. Tremec has a new 5 speed out and it supposed to shift like a T56 but be smaller. I originally bought a kit from american powertrain and everything was wrong. Nothing fit. All I could use was the transmission and bellhousing. Modern Driveline saved me with a correct flywheel, clutch and clutch cable.

  4. https://schaeffersoilshop.com/products/0708-006-supreme™-7000-synthetic-plus-racing-oil-15w-40

    this is for 6 gallons

    can find it for less if you look around.

    Problem with adding zinc is it might not work with the rest of the additive package.

    Problem with using diesel oil is the additive package has been changed and also diesel oil doesn't handle water very well. Gas and especially ethanol blend makes a lot more water than diesel fuel does and the water gets in the oil.

  5. EGR is easy to delete but you also need to recurve your distributor. In 73, for emissions the ignition timing was retarded at idle. This hurts performance and makes the engine overheat at idle. There is a vacuum switch on the water pump that switches the ignition timing to manifold vacuum at idle when the engine overheats to cool it back down.

    This is why I always run manifold vacuum advance and never ported advance. I never have any trouble with overheating at idle.

    I am running 12-15 degrees advance at idle with the vacuum advance unplugged. It seems like its fuel dependent to what it likes. usually around 13.

    I am running a duraspark distributor with 26 degrees centrifugal advance. I am using a GM HEI module to trigger it.

    I have an adjustable vacuum advance diaphram and i plug the vacuum line back on and check the idle timing again and adjust that to about 15 degrees more advance than when unplugged.

    Too little timing makes my exhaust hot, too much gives it a momentary hesitation when I increase throttle, I can't get the engine to knock anymore.

    http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html

    My best 0-60 is 5.65 seconds with a big hesitation in first gear due to too much vacuum advance, I cured that but haven't tested it again yet, should be around 5.2.

    this is with a manual transmission.

     

  6. some cars ground the horn button to the steering column to make it beep (ours does not!). Some aftermarket horn buttons have a wire spring to short it out that has to be clipped off to use on a 71-73 mustang. I had the same problem with mine and had to clip the spring off and then use electrical tape to insulate the bare parts of it from the very close steering wheel nut.

     

  7. On 2/28/2021 at 11:36 AM, Don C said:

    After changing axle gears did you get the correct size speedometer gear? Have you compared your tachometer with another one?

    I bought a kit from american powertrain and everything was wrong, including speedo gear. I am waiting on a new engine install and maybe new wheels and tires... then rear gears and probably converting to an electric speedo.

     

  8. I think the truetrac is probably the best. Its like having a spool under throttle and an open diff at cruise. 

    I was running 2400 rpm with an FMX (1:1) and kind of big tires, 2.75 rear. Then went to 235/60R15 and my RPM at 60 went to 2500.

    Now i'm running a .63 final gear with 4.11 and I'm at 2200 RPM at 60mph.

    Interestingly the tires I have are supposed to be 26.3 inches tall but I have to put in 24.5 to make the calculator work.

    I would say you would get about 2950 with an auto and 3.25 gears at 60 and 3180 from the 3.50's?

  9. I used a heavy duty fan clutch and had trouble with the belt slipping over 4k rpm. I had a clutch and plastic fan off a 89 ranger with a 2.3L and it bolted up and kept the car cool and doesn't pull enough power to squeal the belt. Even with underdrive pulley and no fan shroud the car stays cool. I think a heavy duty clutch is not necessary because a light duty keeps it cool. (i am running a large radiator though).

  10. I used a LARES 810 steering gear. Lares says it is a 10:1 box. It is 2.5 turns lock to lock. My old box was 3 turns lock to lock. This gearbox is not variable rate so it turns immediately off center. My car has 6.5 degrees of caster and a stock power steering pump. Steering effort is much higher than stock but enjoyable to drive and the car is much more nimble. Probably the best thing about this is the lack of extra steering wheel turn in a slalom.

     

    • Like 1
  11. Original flashers work off amperage to make them flash. LED lights don't pull enough amperage to make them flash so you will need "electronic flasher". The electronic flasher will only work one way so you may need to reverse its orientation. I bought a set that came with little inline adapters that reversed them. Both mine had to be reversed. Before I did this my turn signals and emergency flashers would speed up and slow down. I still haven't changed to LED so even with incandescent lights the flashers may need to be reversed to work.

     

  12. I had a flex fan and it would pull a lot of air all the time, it would roar. i bought a hayden 2747 fan clutch and a derale 17117 fan. I loved the quiet at idle and part throttle, but by 3000rpm it started to roar and at 3700 the belt would squeel. I could have tightened the belt but I wanted to use less horsepower not more. I ended up grabbing a 1989 ranger 2.3l clutch fan and trying that. the fan is about 4 inches from the radiator and has no shroud yet but it keeps the engine cool even when idling for 40 minutes. car has a manual transmission and is running 800 rpm idle, 28 degrees timing advance and the idle is adjusted pretty lean. no air conditioning yet.

  13. quick way to tell 351c from windsor is the upper radiator hose comes from the engine block on the 351c, it comes from the intake manifold on a windsor engine.

    351c and 351m-400 can be identified by the height of the bottom of the intake manifold behind the distributor. If the bottom of the manifold is almost even with the distributor mounting surface, it is a cleveland, if it is higher, it is a 351m-400 engine. Google 351m images and look.

  14. I have 17x7 with 0 offset on the front and back and BFGoodrich g-Force Comp-2 A/S Tires 235/50-ZR17 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bfg-27274/overview/

    The offset is correct, I had wheels on this car that stuck out about a half inch more and they didn't look as good in my opinion.

    Yours are going to be the same as mine. The back wheels have a lot more room than the front.

     

    My tires have a section width of 9.5 inches and there is at least 1/2 inch clearance to frame with tires turned left and right.

    I do have a relocated upper control arm and 620lb front springs.

    looking at section width for the tires you list they will be a tenth of an inch wider on the front

    I guess check and make sure your front tires are good for a 7 inch rim

    It took me forever to pick out rims and tires too.

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