TheDude

Just wanted to confirm that yes they are Granada. Thanks Klingon, that helped a bunch.

OK thanks. That does help a lot. Looks like the same bearings as I got for the Mustang rotors so I can reuse that, but everything else needs to be returned. Grabbing some new parts at Napa now since they close in a few and hopefully this is the right thing, but looks promising.

Hello gents, I decided to stay stock with brakes and replace my rotor and pads along with some suspension work at the same time. Well, got the new rotor installed and then go to take care of the pads and see that what I have and what I see online for this car are totally different than what I have. After some googling around it looked like maybe the pads are for a Mustang II / Pinto so grabbed a set locally until I can get something better. They looked small in the store and of course when I got them home they were similar style shape but too small. OK, let's put the old pads back on for now.

Sorry, didn't see your reply. I finally punted and went with stock again. Had a few other things come up that needed money so it was tough to argue with ceramic pads, rotors and bearings for around $170 bucks. I think the calipers are fine.

Thanks for the follow up. Digging into this more it was pretty clear that the local control arm bushings are in really bad shape, in particular the one on the left. I've ordered new arms for both sides and will get those installed this weekend if it's not too hot then add a bunch of caster as well before aligning it. It has a new rag point and idler arm. The pitman arm looks good. The box seems loose but not crazy. Seeing how much those control arms are moving around I'm thinking that getting fixed will go a long way to getting this to drive like a regular old car and not complete

Yup, the more I thought about the Wilwoods the less I like the idea and it seems like only a small improvement in performance with that kit anyway. I see that kit around pretty cheap sometimes and it seems neat to have Wilwoods on there, but I think it would seem neater to have better brakes that I can get parts for anywhere.

My car isn't going to see any track time or anything. Just looking to get it to run and drive more like a modern car. Right now it's a rattly death trap and really just want it to be safer and less scary to drive. That said, when you factor in $300 for Mustang Steve's brackets, some new spindles, junkyard or new brake parts etc etc, you're getting close to the cost of an entry level Wilwood setup. Anyone used these, if so how tough are the mods to install? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-13477 Probably still not as good as larger, modern hardware OEM hardware as t

Well that's an interesting idea. It would seem weird to go back to drum parts to get better brakes, but whatever works. Thanks for the feedback!

My '72 needs new rotors and calipers replaced up front. Are there any affordable (cheap) upgrades to get bigger brakes up front? Like maybe OEM brakes from a newer car that are better than what was on there? While I'd love to go for Wilwood or something like that, it's just not in the cards right now. Tried searching around but not really seeing a clear answer on what might work and what kind of mods might be needed to make it work. Also, if swapping isn't practical, are there replacement parts for the OEM brakes that will perform better than stock? I'm running 20" wheels right now

Does anyone know of a replacement tail light lens that doesn't have the clear reverse square in the middle? I'd like to go all red but of course the clear square makes that tough. I've seen them in pics a couple times, but no idea where they came from or if they were just modded. Thanks

One more of that car. Yea that would be cool. I had visions of a tunnel ram on mine as well. Not going to happen, but the teenager in me wants to go for it.

Just ran into this on Instagram. Don't know anything else about it.

For the supply, it's using 3/8" and running with the stock line but then up behind the engine with a heat shield where it gets near the exhaust and engine.

Just wanted to update for the next person. This is what we ended up doing for the return. Used the stock supply line as the return and a new line following the same path as the factory line for the supply. So far so good and no need to drop the tank.

I put a Tremec T56 Magnum 6 speed in mine and it fit with no mods to anything in the tunnel or shifter location. As Tony mentioned, you'll need the right bell housing, crossmember and driveshaft of course.