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TheDude

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Posts posted by TheDude

  1. 2 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

    Thanks. That's the exactly what I have now, the Trailerite. Unfortunately their quality went down. The first one I owned lasted 5 years with some patching. My current one had to be patched after a year and now after 3 years has tearing all over so I am looking for a new one.

    Why is this not shocking at all. Seems like everything gets crappier over time. I know we always say they don't make em like they used to, but some stuff like fabric never really makes sense other than just using cheaper stuff. Well that and in the old days they would make everything with asbestos, DDT and ground up baby seals, which is sometimes frowned upon these days. 

    1 hour ago, Lazarus said:

    I know I am late to this discussion, but since you mentioned the waterproof thing, I thought I’d chime in. I have experimented a little bit with different outside car covers over the years. I live in North Carolina, where the sun can be fairly rough, and I have had more old cars than garage bays. 
     

    I have found that very expensive ones did not hold up much better than more reasonable ones.  After a while under sun and rain, they all sorta give out and turn dusty and brittle. My humble advice is To find one that is breathable and plan to replace it every so often. Make sure its inner layer is easy on the paint and that it is secure enough that wind won’t cause it to flap and rub the paint. I would avoid the door access zippers and stuff unless I was certain that the inside could never scratch the paint. 
     

    I personally have given up on the waterproof idea. Never had one actually be waterproof, and outside no matter what you do, pollen, moisture, and dust get under it. Remember, when you try to block water getting in, you sometimes only succeed in blocking it getting out.   In my experience water always finds a way in, you want it to be able to escape. Whether we are talking condensation, evaporated water from the ground, driving rain from the wind, or a small leak, you don’t want water sitting trapped. 
     

     

    I actually like the lighter weight more breathable ones. They just tend to make pass through so much dirt when they do get wet. The flip side is they are often washable to a point. We don't get enough rain to make it a big deal here if it's not perfect. For me I just feel like the car stays cleaner and keeps most of the water off because I don't want to think about my leaky windows. Yes, the right answer is to fix those. 

    29 minutes ago, tony-muscle said:

    Now that you mention waterproofing, I forgot to say that I had to apply seam sealer in all the seams to avoid water leakage. Again, this is based on my experience with boat covers and obviously depending if your cover has seams.

    This may sound weird, but one thing I've been doing lately is using spray on ceramic coating on all sorts of things, like wood furniture and even in places I'd normally use silicon spray. I've been using this on all sorts of things to just protect them. It goes a long way, doesn't really change the appearance and is pretty cheap. So I might actually try coating my next cover with it when I get it. People will think I'm nuts waxing the cover. But I'm thinking if It' can make the surface a bit hydrophobic it might stay cleaner and maybe last a bit longer. Probably dumb, but I might give it a shot. 

    • Like 1
  2. This is going back a few years, but the last one I had was a Taylor Made and I think the TRAILERITE line. I had paid under $200 during a sale at WestMarine. That was for a 21' Walkaround and lasted at least 3 years full time in the sun. Before that I had a cover made by Carver that was cheaper and thinner, but lasted about 3 years as well then disintegrated all at once. Obviously this was several years ago and way different conditions than you have, but that's the results I had. And now I miss my boat :classic_sad: ... but not all the money it took to keep it going offshore. 

  3. Thanks. And same here actually. I'd have pretty cheap covers on my 21' boat (recently got rid of it :classic_sad:) that would last several years. Those are way bigger covers than the a car cover as it goes over the cabin and would have a tougher elastic etc around the whole thing. They were also made of stuff I wouldn't want rubbing against my car, but that outer layer was tough. 

    I think I'm going to try a CoverKing cover.  You can get a custom fit model from through Costco for I think $179 and a model with a softer inner layer for about $220 direct from them. Still just a 3 year warranty, but if I can get 2+ years out of it, I'll be happy. That would put me at around that $100 a year number you mentioned. 

    Edit.. Checking now they are showing OOS. Yesterday they were there and $220. Supposedly they are all made to order so not sure how OOS works in that scenario, but that's what they are saying. 

  4. Thanks. I actually do want waterproof, just not super snug fitting. It doesn't rain much here so keeping it covered is mostly about keeping it clean, but then making sure that when it does rain occasionally it won't just wash the dirt through to the car. I've had both types and for where I'm at, at least the waterproof ones with a soft backing do keep things cleaner, like uncover the car after 6 weeks and it's still clean. It's not wet enough here to worry about moisture build up if the cover isn't skin tight.  

    I'll take a closer look at CoverCraft. I'd be willing to shell out a bit more for the cover like maybe one of their 5 layer models if I thought it would hold up. I'm a bit jaded now and feel like they will all let me down in a few months. 

    Thanks again

  5. Do you know any decent water proof car covers that hold up to the sun and aren't crazy expensive? I've been through a bunch of different covers from Amazon and usually get a few months out of them before they disintegrate or water just passes through them. The last one said all the right things, thousands of reviews. Nicely made and worked great for a few months, then it lost its water resistance and makes the car a mess when it gets wet. 

    I'd love to get something that will hold up at least a couple years without having to spend a fortune. Thanks

  6. Thanks Tony. Sounds like you are setup like I am with the ignition in the same location and EFI, but you ran most of the wiring around back. So EFI etc. all connect around the back of the engine with wires like water temp etc over the top but you left the ignition up front, correct? I had wondered the same about the ignition as it didn't seem like a great idea to make that wire any longer than it needs to be. 

    That sounds simpler than what I was thinking at least as far as having the ignition some place I can get to it easy enough. Still have to sort out power distribution as I have I think 5 devices grabbing power from the starter relay. Or I just need to buy a giant air cleaner that covers everything under the hood. 

     

  7. I'm finally at a point where I need to deal with my under hood wiring, it's a hot mess and looks like C3PO threw up on my fender. Right now I have a Mallory Ignition box mounted to the shock tower on the passenger side. All the cabling for that and my EFI run across the top / front of the engine and is just ugly and very sketchy. It's basically been a giant wad of cables just zip tied and wrapped for a long time and I need to make it better.  

    So easiest thing to do would be to just cut things to the proper lengths, replace some wires like switched power that are spliced 47 times and then dress it better and call it a day. It would look slightly less crappy and hopefully be more reliable long term, but it would still be crappy looking. 

    The next thing I'm thinking is to relocate the ignition back behind the shock tower or on the firewall and run everything back there. The thing I don't like about that is heat for the ignition and serviceability. I hate the idea of having to take off the shock tower brace just to take a look at some wiring issues or make small changes. 

    Anyway if anyone has some thoughts or pics of how you've run your wiring when you have similar components, I'd appreciate it. Also seems like a distribution block or something might be appropriate for switched and unstitched power, so would be curious to see what you did with that. 

    Thanks!

    75978206ab1235c6f1b8b4ccc8c41276.jpg.d980cd1119c861d1106ba67211a03b52.jpg

     

  8. 4 hours ago, Bentworker said:

    Slap some Nord Lock washers under your header bolts and be done with loose bolts.

     

    https://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/products/washers/

    Since I'm missing a bolt and really need to replace a few of them either way, I ordered some of these which look like they use those washers https://www.proformparts.com/product-detail/66756/wedge-locking-header-bolts-hex-head-3-8-dia-x-1in-blk-oxide-finish-16-pcs

    And glad my stupidity can bring people some enjoyment

     

    • Like 1
  9. A couple people here did mention exhaust holes and the like (thanks!) and I crawled around under the car, poked around etc. and didn't find anything of course not ever noticing the actual bolt not there. I had just tightened up the header bolts about a month before this so didn't even occur to me that they might have loosened so fast. It just never sounded like the exhaust to me until the very end as it seemed to be getting louder and louder as time went on. This was all in the driveway as I wasn't going to be driving this thing like that. 

    On the plus side I did do a bunch of maintenance and little stuff along the way so it wasn't all wasted time by any stretch. 

    And, yeah, we've all made dumb mistakes like this. But we don't generally have a thread dedicated to them. :classic_wacko:

    • Like 1
    • LOL 1
  10. Boy am I going to feel dumb if this is just a loose header bolt or something like that. Thought I checked that, but now I don't think I actually did. I'll check later and would love to find out that I'm just an idiot and nothing is actually broken. Also getting a little borescope / endoscope so I can get a better view of the headers and inside the fuel pump opening. Roller rockers up top, a video higher up in the thread shows this without the valve cover on. Haven't checked vacuum, but I'll have a look later. 

    I pulled the distributor yesterday to check for anything obvious there. Not sure what I'm looking for exactly, but seems OK on the surface. Some up and down play that looks like it probably should be there and solid left / right on the shaft. Bearing is quiet and smooth. No chunks or parts coming out of it or anything. 

  11. Well yesterday it wouldn't make the sound. Today it's louder than it's ever been and louder in person than the video sounds. At some points it sounds like marbles floating around under the valve cover. 

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/G5Yj9agWH4Ry1SCs9

    It definitely changes when you pull the wire on #5 (front most on the driver side. Doesn't go away like the videos I've seen of testing rod bearings, but does cut down that loud snapping or clanking sound. 

     

  12. Thanks. This has been in the back of my mind since the beginning as my google searches for short blocks would bear out. I'll be trying the plug thing hopefully later today. While it's not a great time for me to rebuild or replace an engine, I need to get it figured out one way or another. 

    Thanks again for the ideas and regardless of the results, it's more info than I have right now. 

  13. 18 minutes ago, boilermaster said:

    Dude, both the tiny exhaust leak and motor mount sound like possibilities.

    Any chance you could secure your phone in the engine bay to take a recording while letting the clutch out while in gear and listen to your recording and compare to the previous ??

    Safety first !!!

    So I had my wife stand in front of the car while I dumped the clutch and noise doesn't change (the engine I mean :classic_smile:). And just kidding, she's awesome and the noise when it's happening is usually loud enough to hear from inside the car. Naturally this time it wasn't making the noise at all so wasn't able to test. Usually if I shut it off then start it back up in a little bit it will make the noise again. It's too late out here to do that much without pissing off the neighbors so I'll have to do that tomorrow. 

    Can't get much a look at the header from up top, so might have to put it up in the air to get a look from underneath. 

  14. Interesting idea. Something like that had occurred to me. On that same drive I hit a pretty gnarly pot hole so in the back of my mind I keep thinking that something broke and what I'm hearing could be outside the engine. Like a motor mount rubbing metal or something like that. I haven't looked closely at the exhaust though. Not sure how well I'm going to be able to see anything on that rusty header, but I'll give that a look and see if that gets me anywhere. 

    Along those lines, had a couple neighbors pontificating on this and they came up with two solutions. 1st, get a louder stereo and 2nd run it with open headers. :classic_unsure:

    I'll poke around out there this evening. Thanks for the idea. 

  15. Thanks for the feedback. Good point about the distributor, I looked at the top side, but didn't dig down under the electronics to see if anything is out of sorts. It's a Mallory UniLite and I can't figure out how to get under the electronics short of pulling the distributor and completely disassembling it and basically rebuilding it. That said, I did poke at it with a stethoscope and get my ear right up on it and didn't get anything at all from it.

    I wasn't able to get myself in a position to look up in the fuel pump opening, so actually just installed a mechanical pump in there again to see if anything changes. No difference. Well as I mentioned the sound comes and goes and at first it was silent so thought I had something. Shut if off for a minute and turned it back on and it made the noise again. Literally different every time. Loud, then totally silent the next or starts with some noise then sort of goes away. 

    Anyway, it really does sound like right at the front of the engine, so I think I need to go spelunking and see what happens. After working on the thing for months (or years?), I was really just trying to avoid taking things apart again.  Wish I had a mechanic I could hand this off to, but no such luck at the moment. 

    Thanks for the time trying to figure this out. 

     

     

     

  16. 8 hours ago, 1sostatic said:

    Worst thought is timing chain guides - tensioner shenanigans?

    Also Inside that front blue block, just behind your watery impeller, is also the lobe for actuating the fuel pump -- is it fuel pump actuator slap back onto the front lobe.. ....has one recently fitted a cheap and cheerful aftermarket fuel pump (c'mon fess up :classic_wink:) ? or is it 50 years old in which case one of the return springs no longer has tension and the actuator is slapping around?

    Just for information sake... the actuator on the original fuel pumps have spring tension in both directions of the actuator arm... the weezly cheap aftermarket tin-pot one's have only tension back to the lobe - causing slap...the designers, of course, having the IQ of a chair leg and the intellect of a bicycle. :classic_dry:

    I'm starting to think the same thing about the timing chain. Using an electric fuel pump with fuel pump hole blocked off. Thanks!

    4 hours ago, Hemikiller said:

    Really hard to tell where it's coming from. Check that your distributor cap is fully seated and square on the distributor, as the rotor could be hitting the terminals - and that all the wires are fully engaged.  If it's definitely from the front of the engine, I might lean towards something being up with the timing chain, maybe the cam bolt is backing out. 

    Thanks, I did check the distributor and everything looks good to me. Thinking the same thing about the timing chain. Hate to rip all that apart just to try and figure out what's up, but it's looking like that's where I'm heading. 

  17. So checked the bolts on the crank pully, pushed down on each rocker at the pushrod as it was running and no change. It's very odd as it changes a lot. Sometimes it's really loud, others it goes away completely. Sometimes it seems to actually be a bit louder after letting off the gas and it's slowing down.

    Here's another video, belts are back on, but it's the same with the belts off. 

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/uzg2gtkz8h6LBjfJ8

    The sound does seem to be coming from the very front of engine. And again it does this with the water pump, power steering and alternator not turning. Really not sure what to make of it or where to even go with this.

    Thanks

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