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Everything posted by TheDude

  1. Thanks, for the feedback. OK, I was sort of hoping this thread would die and I even considered deleting it, but to hopefully save the next dude some time, Here goes... My name is The Dude and I'm an idiot. That crazy sound that changed all the time and I spent hours taking crap apart, poking, prodding, stressing on, in the back of my mind thinking I might need to rebuild this thing and wasting your time on was.... A header bolt fell out and another couple were loose. There I said it. I'll be turning in my tools now.
  2. Not sure if it's the wrong carb, but seems like a spacer / adapter ought to let you at least get it on there. Not sure if there will be other issues with airflow, but it should at least let you get it installed I'd think. Maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-4-Barrel-Carburetor-Adapter/dp/B00068OS2M
  3. Boy am I going to feel dumb if this is just a loose header bolt or something like that. Thought I checked that, but now I don't think I actually did. I'll check later and would love to find out that I'm just an idiot and nothing is actually broken. Also getting a little borescope / endoscope so I can get a better view of the headers and inside the fuel pump opening. Roller rockers up top, a video higher up in the thread shows this without the valve cover on. Haven't checked vacuum, but I'll have a look later. I pulled the distributor yesterday to check for anything obvious there. Not sure what I'm looking for exactly, but seems OK on the surface. Some up and down play that looks like it probably should be there and solid left / right on the shaft. Bearing is quiet and smooth. No chunks or parts coming out of it or anything.
  4. Well yesterday it wouldn't make the sound. Today it's louder than it's ever been and louder in person than the video sounds. At some points it sounds like marbles floating around under the valve cover. https://photos.app.goo.gl/G5Yj9agWH4Ry1SCs9 It definitely changes when you pull the wire on #5 (front most on the driver side. Doesn't go away like the videos I've seen of testing rod bearings, but does cut down that loud snapping or clanking sound.
  5. Thanks. This has been in the back of my mind since the beginning as my google searches for short blocks would bear out. I'll be trying the plug thing hopefully later today. While it's not a great time for me to rebuild or replace an engine, I need to get it figured out one way or another. Thanks again for the ideas and regardless of the results, it's more info than I have right now.
  6. So I had my wife stand in front of the car while I dumped the clutch and noise doesn't change (the engine I mean ). And just kidding, she's awesome and the noise when it's happening is usually loud enough to hear from inside the car. Naturally this time it wasn't making the noise at all so wasn't able to test. Usually if I shut it off then start it back up in a little bit it will make the noise again. It's too late out here to do that much without pissing off the neighbors so I'll have to do that tomorrow. Can't get much a look at the header from up top, so might have to put it up in the air to get a look from underneath.
  7. Interesting idea. Something like that had occurred to me. On that same drive I hit a pretty gnarly pot hole so in the back of my mind I keep thinking that something broke and what I'm hearing could be outside the engine. Like a motor mount rubbing metal or something like that. I haven't looked closely at the exhaust though. Not sure how well I'm going to be able to see anything on that rusty header, but I'll give that a look and see if that gets me anywhere. Along those lines, had a couple neighbors pontificating on this and they came up with two solutions. 1st, get a louder stereo and 2nd run it with open headers. I'll poke around out there this evening. Thanks for the idea.
  8. Thanks. It's electric fans and this happens regardless of them being off or on.
  9. Thanks for the feedback. Good point about the distributor, I looked at the top side, but didn't dig down under the electronics to see if anything is out of sorts. It's a Mallory UniLite and I can't figure out how to get under the electronics short of pulling the distributor and completely disassembling it and basically rebuilding it. That said, I did poke at it with a stethoscope and get my ear right up on it and didn't get anything at all from it. I wasn't able to get myself in a position to look up in the fuel pump opening, so actually just installed a mechanical pump in there again to see if anything changes. No difference. Well as I mentioned the sound comes and goes and at first it was silent so thought I had something. Shut if off for a minute and turned it back on and it made the noise again. Literally different every time. Loud, then totally silent the next or starts with some noise then sort of goes away. Anyway, it really does sound like right at the front of the engine, so I think I need to go spelunking and see what happens. After working on the thing for months (or years?), I was really just trying to avoid taking things apart again. Wish I had a mechanic I could hand this off to, but no such luck at the moment. Thanks for the time trying to figure this out.
  10. I'm starting to think the same thing about the timing chain. Using an electric fuel pump with fuel pump hole blocked off. Thanks! Thanks, I did check the distributor and everything looks good to me. Thinking the same thing about the timing chain. Hate to rip all that apart just to try and figure out what's up, but it's looking like that's where I'm heading.
  11. So checked the bolts on the crank pully, pushed down on each rocker at the pushrod as it was running and no change. It's very odd as it changes a lot. Sometimes it's really loud, others it goes away completely. Sometimes it seems to actually be a bit louder after letting off the gas and it's slowing down. Here's another video, belts are back on, but it's the same with the belts off. https://photos.app.goo.gl/uzg2gtkz8h6LBjfJ8 The sound does seem to be coming from the very front of engine. And again it does this with the water pump, power steering and alternator not turning. Really not sure what to make of it or where to even go with this. Thanks
  12. I think it's the original plate and for the moment it does seem like that issue is resolved with the bigger fan.
  13. I'll double check that tonight. OK thanks. I'll give that a shot this evening. It starts right away. If anything it sometimes goes away or gets quieter as you run it, but not always. Seems to be getting more consistent now as time goes by. In my mind that sort of jives with a collapsed lifer but I'm all theory on this stuff and not sure what things should sound like etc. From the valve train, it sure looks well lubricated and has decent pressure. When I started it, oil literally shot out of all the lifters and seemed to be flowing out at a solid rate.
  14. The sound changes a lot over time. Sometimes it's completely gone, sometimes it's very loud and clanky and sometimes it seems more like a rubbing sound. I don't really know what I'm looking for exactly, but none of the pushrods or rockers was very lose or anything. I had been wondering about a collapsed lifer, bent pushrod or maybe even broken spring, but that's way out of my wheel house to know what I'm looking at there unless it's super obvious.
  15. Thanks. I took off that belt entirely and it's still happening. You should be able to see that in the video from this morning that all belts are removed. FWIW - That pully seems a bit tweaked and has a wobble in it. Going to get a replacement at some point, but unfortunately that's not the issue on this one and neither is the water pump or alternator.
  16. Thanks Don. It's an electric pump and the mechanical one is removed and capped off. Harmonic balancer somehow? Replaced that a few months ago and it looks fine, but maybe failing again? Getting a bad feeling about this.
  17. So both belts off still happening. Pulled off the valve cover and I don't see anything obvious. The sound seems to be coming from up front. Any chance this is the timing chain? https://photos.app.goo.gl/6wzrnKVaSfAnGU4s9 Thanks
  18. It does have a wobble for sure and on my list of things to check fix at some point, but no, haven't checked it for maybe just being loose or something Thanks, and good call. Funny if it was someone elses car, I'm thinking I would have figured out that if it's an accessory, take the belt off and see what happens, but it being mine I start to panic and think the worse and don't think of the obvious places to start. I'll pull the belts later today and see if if it changes. Thanks for the clarity.
  19. After a short spirited run up a local road, I started getting a clacking in the front of the engine. Comes and goes a bit and sounds like it's up front by the water pump or power steering but of course could be under a valve cover. Used my harbor freight stethoscope and really couldn't narrow it down. Maybe a red herring, but recently replaced my thermostat and found a loose hunk of metal under it. So thinking / hoping my new water pump might be failing? Appreciate any thoughts on this. https://photos.app.goo.gl/AhAucLSTSey9tjK3A https://photos.app.goo.gl/h4k4wHec2Suyjt7d7
  20. This is something I've wanted to do for a long time and even posted about it some time ago asking if anyone makes a lens with out the reverse light. Like Don said it does look like someone cut out the centers of a lens, then put in some ceiling light diffuser or something like that. Would be great if there was a decent option to buy something like this without having to rip apart the lights in the break room.
  21. Exactly. The best part was spending 5 minutes trying to explain what it was to a bunch of guys who basically boiled it down to "so it's just like like car parts like on the internet, right?". Here's one of the VW catalogs if someone is board. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/lit/jcwhitney_1996summer/JC Whitney Catalog Summer 1996.pdf
  22. I was at a car show not long ago checking out a pretty cool Nissan GTR surrounded by the owner and a bunch of 20-30 year old guys. He was showing some gadget that helped keep the hood up since the stock hardware wasn't there anymore. I jokingly asked if he got that from JC Whitney...
  23. Well there you go, that's even easier. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz8100rce or https://www.amazon.com/MACs-Parts-Radiator-Sacrificial-Anode/dp/B095SZ8H7D
  24. Actually didn't realize you wrote that. Very cool. Doing some googling around and I see that the form factor of that zinc is pretty common and used frequently in Marine engines. So there are bunches around in different lengths NPT size etc. and often under $10. One could conceivably screw one of these into the block or water pump. But I'm thinking might be a bad idea as the anode might come apart as it wears? I suppose if you consider it a wear item and replace it before its too far gone that should be OK. Here's some examples https://www.boatzincs.com/engine-sizes.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwsZKJBhC0ARIsAJ96n3UxXJH7Fq_BNOM3a7t-utP3T-oYs4KR5REW3nCUPNUC0nNQMJE6zNcaAktKEALw_wcB
  25. Having had boats used mostly in salt water, we always used sacrificial zincs to keep electrolysis and at bay. Seems like with aluminum radiators, water pumps and heads, the same thing would make sense in the cooling system. Maybe something like this might make sense https://www.flex-a-lite.com/radiator-anode.html https://www.amazon.com/Flex-lite-32060-Anode-Drain/dp/B001GR09S4
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