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TheDude

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Everything posted by TheDude

  1. So checked the bolts on the crank pully, pushed down on each rocker at the pushrod as it was running and no change. It's very odd as it changes a lot. Sometimes it's really loud, others it goes away completely. Sometimes it seems to actually be a bit louder after letting off the gas and it's slowing down. Here's another video, belts are back on, but it's the same with the belts off. https://photos.app.goo.gl/uzg2gtkz8h6LBjfJ8 The sound does seem to be coming from the very front of engine. And again it does this with the water pump, power steering and alternator not turning. Really not sure what to make of it or where to even go with this. Thanks
  2. I think it's the original plate and for the moment it does seem like that issue is resolved with the bigger fan.
  3. I'll double check that tonight. OK thanks. I'll give that a shot this evening. It starts right away. If anything it sometimes goes away or gets quieter as you run it, but not always. Seems to be getting more consistent now as time goes by. In my mind that sort of jives with a collapsed lifer but I'm all theory on this stuff and not sure what things should sound like etc. From the valve train, it sure looks well lubricated and has decent pressure. When I started it, oil literally shot out of all the lifters and seemed to be flowing out at a solid rate.
  4. The sound changes a lot over time. Sometimes it's completely gone, sometimes it's very loud and clanky and sometimes it seems more like a rubbing sound. I don't really know what I'm looking for exactly, but none of the pushrods or rockers was very lose or anything. I had been wondering about a collapsed lifer, bent pushrod or maybe even broken spring, but that's way out of my wheel house to know what I'm looking at there unless it's super obvious.
  5. Thanks. I took off that belt entirely and it's still happening. You should be able to see that in the video from this morning that all belts are removed. FWIW - That pully seems a bit tweaked and has a wobble in it. Going to get a replacement at some point, but unfortunately that's not the issue on this one and neither is the water pump or alternator.
  6. Thanks Don. It's an electric pump and the mechanical one is removed and capped off. Harmonic balancer somehow? Replaced that a few months ago and it looks fine, but maybe failing again? Getting a bad feeling about this.
  7. So both belts off still happening. Pulled off the valve cover and I don't see anything obvious. The sound seems to be coming from up front. Any chance this is the timing chain? https://photos.app.goo.gl/6wzrnKVaSfAnGU4s9 Thanks
  8. It does have a wobble for sure and on my list of things to check fix at some point, but no, haven't checked it for maybe just being loose or something Thanks, and good call. Funny if it was someone elses car, I'm thinking I would have figured out that if it's an accessory, take the belt off and see what happens, but it being mine I start to panic and think the worse and don't think of the obvious places to start. I'll pull the belts later today and see if if it changes. Thanks for the clarity.
  9. After a short spirited run up a local road, I started getting a clacking in the front of the engine. Comes and goes a bit and sounds like it's up front by the water pump or power steering but of course could be under a valve cover. Used my harbor freight stethoscope and really couldn't narrow it down. Maybe a red herring, but recently replaced my thermostat and found a loose hunk of metal under it. So thinking / hoping my new water pump might be failing? Appreciate any thoughts on this. https://photos.app.goo.gl/AhAucLSTSey9tjK3A https://photos.app.goo.gl/h4k4wHec2Suyjt7d7
  10. This is something I've wanted to do for a long time and even posted about it some time ago asking if anyone makes a lens with out the reverse light. Like Don said it does look like someone cut out the centers of a lens, then put in some ceiling light diffuser or something like that. Would be great if there was a decent option to buy something like this without having to rip apart the lights in the break room.
  11. Exactly. The best part was spending 5 minutes trying to explain what it was to a bunch of guys who basically boiled it down to "so it's just like like car parts like on the internet, right?". Here's one of the VW catalogs if someone is board. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/lit/jcwhitney_1996summer/JC Whitney Catalog Summer 1996.pdf
  12. I was at a car show not long ago checking out a pretty cool Nissan GTR surrounded by the owner and a bunch of 20-30 year old guys. He was showing some gadget that helped keep the hood up since the stock hardware wasn't there anymore. I jokingly asked if he got that from JC Whitney...
  13. Well there you go, that's even easier. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz8100rce or https://www.amazon.com/MACs-Parts-Radiator-Sacrificial-Anode/dp/B095SZ8H7D
  14. Actually didn't realize you wrote that. Very cool. Doing some googling around and I see that the form factor of that zinc is pretty common and used frequently in Marine engines. So there are bunches around in different lengths NPT size etc. and often under $10. One could conceivably screw one of these into the block or water pump. But I'm thinking might be a bad idea as the anode might come apart as it wears? I suppose if you consider it a wear item and replace it before its too far gone that should be OK. Here's some examples https://www.boatzincs.com/engine-sizes.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwsZKJBhC0ARIsAJ96n3UxXJH7Fq_BNOM3a7t-utP3T-oYs4KR5REW3nCUPNUC0nNQMJE6zNcaAktKEALw_wcB
  15. Having had boats used mostly in salt water, we always used sacrificial zincs to keep electrolysis and at bay. Seems like with aluminum radiators, water pumps and heads, the same thing would make sense in the cooling system. Maybe something like this might make sense https://www.flex-a-lite.com/radiator-anode.html https://www.amazon.com/Flex-lite-32060-Anode-Drain/dp/B001GR09S4
  16. Well I'll add that to the nope list. I assumed it was all just bolt in, had no idea there was so much that needed to be changed.
  17. So I ended up swapping one of my fans for a higher volume unit as a couple of you guys suggested and so far it's working great. I haven't had it out on a very hot day yet, but before even on a moderate day it wouldn't stay at a temp. Driving around in low 80's weather (the temp, not the decade) I set the fans to go on at 195 and off at 190 and it is great to see it actually going down in temp and the fans cycling on and off even just sitting at a light. This is the fan I ended up getting https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPU-IX-30103202 Thanks for the help on this!
  18. Good stuff guys. This whole thread makes me feel even worse about the state of my trunk . Also, now I really want to get a fold down rear seat. It never ends does it?
  19. That makes sense actually. On the surface everything looks good. Those dual electric fans move so much more air than the stock fan ever did. When they come on and the hood is open it's like a blast furnace all around there. Each fan is rated at 1328CFM. But I hear you, if everything seems to be working right then why is it hot? I will triple check the thermostat. I have the factory gauge and a separate sensor and gauge in the EFI. And again It hasn't truly overheated yet, but just can't get it to hold temp at say 195-200F. It's start creeping up. I need to go get some miles on it and see how it does in traffic as so far that's been all in the driveway. But it seems to me that with all things being right, on a normal day in the low to mid 80s, it should be able to idle forever without overheating.
  20. That certainly could be the case but it sure does seem to be moving a lot of water. Going to take it out for a drive in traffic and see how it does. It hasn't actually over heated yet, just the temp climbs and seems to keep climbing so doesn't seem like it would stop increasing. The way this thing heats up under the hood when not moving much makes me wish there was a way to reverse one one or both of the fans at slow speed. I know that won't work, but love the idea of getting some of that heat out from under there.
  21. It's steel, and yes looks like it's been chewed up pretty good. Looks a little like steel from a freeze plug. Also on the new thermostat, ran it for about 25 min in the driveway idling, fans coming on at 190. Eventually after closing the hood, temps started climbing and got to about 206 before I shut it off. Certainly drivable but seems like it would eventually overheat if I left it running. Looking at adding an AC but need to get this sorted first.
  22. I went ahead and got one of the thermostats from TMeyer. Haven't fired up the car yet so no feedback on if that did the trick. But here's a nice thing , I take out the thermostat and there's a chunk of metal wedged along it's edge. So I'm guessing a chunk of an old thermostat that rotted out or failed water pump, heater core or something like that. Of course now the is there any more of that crap in there waiting to clog up something important or trash the water pump? Now I think I need to start giving my car a daily baby aspirin to keep it from getting a blockage.
  23. Thanks. I'm well past that at this point and honestly this isn't the end of the world, just need to make a bit of clearance at one stop on the corner of the tunnel. I really wasn't in a good position to do much fab on this, so I wanted this to be as bolt on as possible. The thing with the explorer rear end is that it's the right length from the get go. So no cutting but a bit of a clearance issue to be dealt with. So this is a lot more DIY friendly for someone not looking to get new axles and what not. Basically find an Explorer rear end with the right gears, LSD and discs. Cut off the perches, fit it with new perches and weld those on. Hammer in some clearance in the corner of the tunnel and you're pretty much done. For someone doing this going forward, here's some of the parts I used. I used a longer than normal perch that's supposed to help with spring wrap. They are 7-3/4" in case the ebay ad listing goes away. https://www.ebay.com/itm/143192608713 I used these adapters for the parking brake. Yes, could do the typical cut the end and wrap the cable around the new location, but this was literally just pop it on and it worked. https://www.theflopshopoffroad.com/products/ford-8-8-swap-e-brake-cable-adapters And while pricey, I ended up using this plate as again I didn't have a good way to do much of the fab. This plate comes with the shock tabs, U-bolts and is ready to go. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cur-ce7007a
  24. I've got tons of ground clearance if that's what you are getting at. I'm not sure smaller wheels / tires would make a difference on the clearance from the rear end to the floor. Honestly I think if I had realized this would be an issue, I likely could have made enough clearance when everything was out of the car without too much trouble. I was just in too much of a hurry to look at it from different angles. My tires are comically tall at about 28.75". Unless I'm misunderstanding what you are thinking, not sure shortening the long side would work as then the rear end would be too narrow. The whole point of using the explorer rear ends is they are the right length but have that offset. I used my existing driveshaft, so no change there. For the most part it all just goes together nicely and just needed to deal with that corner of the floor. The rear end is out of a 2000 Explorer, 4.10 gears, LSD and disc brakes. With the gearing in my trans, it's still not too low and I do need 1st. I can start off in 2nd, but would need to slip the clutch too much.
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