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Everything posted by TheDude

  1. Perfect, thanks. That's really the confirmation I was looking for. Loads of them in some parts of the country. Around here they get gobbled up for use in jeeps so having a hard time finding that combo. I'll keep looking. Thanks
  2. Howdy folks, I'm in need of new rear end gearing in a bad way. Currently running a 6 speed with I think 2.73's. According to the calculators, I can just about hit 70 in 1st gear, over 100 in 2nd and 297mph in 6th, so yeah, just a tiny bit tall lol! Not planning on racing, just spirited driving and the occasional abuse of rear tires and still good freeway cruising So I'm looking at an 8.8 from an Explorer and 4.10 gears, trac loc and disc brakes. Love to get 2nd opinions from people that know more than me about this if this gearing sounds like a good fit and secondly if the Explorer rear end seems like a solid way to go. Trying to do this on a budget so this seems a lot more affordable than building a 9" as I can do all the parts for probably under $500. at 2000 RPM that should have me about here for what looks like still decent freeway cruising, although honestly I'll miss that under 2000PM freeway cruising I have now . Here's 3500 RPM And 5,500 RPM
  3. For this car it wasn't the clear coat, but the paint itself. The car had been repainted a couple of times over it's life. Those old paint jobs didn't adhere to the previous coat as well as factory factory paint. So when you apply what amounts to a giant super sticky sticker to it then pull it off over and over again pain that otherwise seemed OK other than having a lousy finish would peel up. It really was a nightmare after spending ages getting a door or fender just perfect, then after a couple hours and almost done with wrapping a panel and it's looking great, suddenly a 3" chunk will just pull off. Now peel the rest of the vinyl off and of course when I do that more paint comes with it and now the door is worse than when I started body working it. I've now done a driveway paintjob and it's OK for now, but not great obviously. There's this part of me that's saying well I just applied several coats of paint and 2K clear, surely It will stick good enough to get it wrapped. As much as I want to, not going to try that as that's just a can of worms if it doesn't go right.
  4. Since the day I got my car I had fully planned on wrapping it as I've done other cars and I knew it was a fast quick way to get the car looking really good. Body work it like you are going to paint then wrap. The right wrap and color can actually hide some crimes and even things out a lot along with just looking great. The problem I had though was that the old paint on my car was in such bad shape that it would lift when applying the wrap. When you lay the wrap, you need to stick it to the car and lift it over and over to get it to lay down clean. Since the old paint was in such bad shape little spots would peel up and stick to the back of the wrap. As soon as that happens that sheet of wrap is done as there's no way to fix a paint chip stuck to the back. And of course then the paint is messed up and needs to be feathered, primed and evened out only to have another spot elsewhere on the panel do the same thing the next time. I went over and over several panels prepping and priming and things would look good and solid, then run into another spot where the previous paint wouldn't adhere and more wrap wasted and then have to start over with body work as now I had uneven paint. So after wrapping several panels over weeks I finally gave up as it just wasn't going to happen without stripping the old paint completely which was way more work than I was prepared to do. A lot of wrapping places won't touch old cars or cars that have been repainted for this and other reasons. So I still like the idea, but you really need to have solid paint to do this, and it can be tough to know if your paint will work out until you actually start doing big panels.
  5. I know people will put the cans in the freezer and they claim to get weeks or even months longer. Never tried that myself. This. The stuff is gnarly so don't mess around and do wear a good mask. Also the stuff really carries so mask off a lot more than you think you need to. I've used the 2K sprays a fair bit. I love the product overall, but have issues with the cans. When working with larger areas, if the can isn't totally full and the can warmed up if will start to sputter when working on horizonal surfaces. With a gloss finish this can usually be dealt with by just going over the area again at that moment. When dealing with Matte finishes it will leave a texture difference that can only be dealt with by giving a full extra coat or sanding down and doing it again.
  6. Why would you want to cover the factory 12 pack compartment designed to stash your beer when you are supposed to be working on the car? Seriously though, looks great. Very nice job.
  7. Still haven't had it out much to get pics, but here's one from last night. Really need to get the front end down as it's pretty tall right now. On my list of never ending projects and $$
  8. FWIW - Here's mine running craigslist 20's all around. Sorry don't have great pics as we've been working on it non stop. 20x9.5s in the back with 315/35/20s and 20X8.5s with 255/40/20s up front. With that wide a tire there is still a reasonable amount of sidewall in the back IMO and looks pretty good. The front sidewalls look to thin. It's at stock height so I think lowering an inch or two up there will make that look a lot better. Eventually I'll probably go 18's or 19's with a taller sidewall. Personally I'd stay away from 17" wheels unless you know exactly what you want and don't think you will want to tweak the fit as there are just far fewer size options in 17s. Also for what it's worth, it handles and rides really good with this setup considering its all stock.
  9. On the pedals, keep an eye out for people parting out cars. When I did mine, I got the complete pedal assembly with both pedals for about $125-$150 from someone parting out their car on ebay. I picked up a bunch of other unrelated things as well. Also there's Scotty Strickland on Facebook that has a Mustang boneyard. I never got anything from him but he did seem to have a lot of stuff for sure.
  10. Yes my wife keeps reminding me about this. Although she doesn't call it a nice thing. Thanks. I had tried some of this, but didn't have a long enough stick for get to the bottom of the engine. The lose rocker thing is making me think a bit. The valve covers that were on it when I got the car didn't have enough clearance and the rockers on the front edge of both sides were knocking against the valve cover to the point that the covers eventually cracked. Everything seemed good at the time and nothing was obviously lose, but I should double check that. Thanks!
  11. That could totally be. I have no end of trouble getting my headers to stay sealed. I have to tighten the bolts constantly, one of these days I'll get some proper locking bolts. Good call, but running an electric pump. That's what she said? Yes, no doubt on that and just ordered one and a bunch of other odds and ends from HF. Thanks for the comments and ideas. I'll post back if I ever get this figured out.
  12. Thanks for the replies and for some reason I never seem to get notifications when there is one so didn't know until I looked. It does sound lower than a rocker arm and I've run it without valve covers and didn't hear anything there. I tried the old long screwdriver to the ear trick to try and hear it but couldn't narrow it down. Thought it might have been the water pump, but replaced that recently as well. I'll see if I can find a cheap stethoscope. Don, I like the idea of pulling the belts. That gets rid of a lot of variables and easier to narrow things down from there if it does or doesn't go away. The sound has been there and been the same basically since I got the car. It's pretty subtle so most people don't even notice it. It had occurred to me to speed up the idle a bit to make it go away but that seems like a cop out and I really need to try and get to the bottom of it.
  13. Howdy everyone, my 351C 4V engine has had a knocking issue since I got it a couple years ago. When warm and at low idle, the engine knocks a bit. It happens when idling at around 800 RPM. Pick up up just a bit to 950-1000 RPM and it goes away. Not just overtaken by noise but goes away. Oil pressure looks good. I've been told by a couple different mechanics that have heard it that it's not a rod knock or anything to worry about, but never really got a straight answer about what is actually causing it, if it's doing any harm or how to stop it other than increasing the idle speed. Any thoughts on what could be doing this and what if anything can be done to get to the bottom of it and stop it? Thanks!
  14. Just wanted to confirm that yes they are Granada. Thanks Klingon, that helped a bunch.
  15. OK thanks. That does help a lot. Looks like the same bearings as I got for the Mustang rotors so I can reuse that, but everything else needs to be returned. Grabbing some new parts at Napa now since they close in a few and hopefully this is the right thing, but looks promising.
  16. Hello gents, I decided to stay stock with brakes and replace my rotor and pads along with some suspension work at the same time. Well, got the new rotor installed and then go to take care of the pads and see that what I have and what I see online for this car are totally different than what I have. After some googling around it looked like maybe the pads are for a Mustang II / Pinto so grabbed a set locally until I can get something better. They looked small in the store and of course when I got them home they were similar style shape but too small. OK, let's put the old pads back on for now. Well they don't fit on the new rotor and bottom out on the hub and looking closer, the caliper actually hits the back of the rotor when tightened down. So first question is, does anyone know what was actually on the car? Are they maybe Granada brakes or something like that? Then any way to not have to return this rotor and go all Granada or whatever this is? I'm not opposed to buying OEM calipers, but I assume I then need the mounting bracket and related hardware, right? I am trying to get this back on the road this weekend as it's parked in a bad spot to leave it very long. Thanks for any advice or feedback. S
  17. Sorry, didn't see your reply. I finally punted and went with stock again. Had a few other things come up that needed money so it was tough to argue with ceramic pads, rotors and bearings for around $170 bucks. I think the calipers are fine.
  18. Thanks for the follow up. Digging into this more it was pretty clear that the local control arm bushings are in really bad shape, in particular the one on the left. I've ordered new arms for both sides and will get those installed this weekend if it's not too hot then add a bunch of caster as well before aligning it. It has a new rag point and idler arm. The pitman arm looks good. The box seems loose but not crazy. Seeing how much those control arms are moving around I'm thinking that getting fixed will go a long way to getting this to drive like a regular old car and not complete death trap.
  19. Yup, the more I thought about the Wilwoods the less I like the idea and it seems like only a small improvement in performance with that kit anyway. I see that kit around pretty cheap sometimes and it seems neat to have Wilwoods on there, but I think it would seem neater to have better brakes that I can get parts for anywhere.
  20. My car isn't going to see any track time or anything. Just looking to get it to run and drive more like a modern car. Right now it's a rattly death trap and really just want it to be safer and less scary to drive. That said, when you factor in $300 for Mustang Steve's brackets, some new spindles, junkyard or new brake parts etc etc, you're getting close to the cost of an entry level Wilwood setup. Anyone used these, if so how tough are the mods to install? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-13477 Probably still not as good as larger, modern hardware OEM hardware as they are still pretty small. But I have to assume the 4 piston setup would be a lot better than what I have now. Well just any brakes that work would be a step up so the bar is pretty low at the moment. And yea as someone mentioned, these discs look almost comically small on these big wheels. My son's Hyundai has 4 piston Brembos from the factory that are bigger than this and this car is way bigger and heavier. Thanks
  21. Well that's an interesting idea. It would seem weird to go back to drum parts to get better brakes, but whatever works. Thanks for the feedback!
  22. My '72 needs new rotors and calipers replaced up front. Are there any affordable (cheap) upgrades to get bigger brakes up front? Like maybe OEM brakes from a newer car that are better than what was on there? While I'd love to go for Wilwood or something like that, it's just not in the cards right now. Tried searching around but not really seeing a clear answer on what might work and what kind of mods might be needed to make it work. Also, if swapping isn't practical, are there replacement parts for the OEM brakes that will perform better than stock? I'm running 20" wheels right now so there is tons of room for larger brakes. Probably go to 18's or 19's at some point, but it will always be larger than stock. Appreciate any feedback on this. Thanks!
  23. Does anyone know of a replacement tail light lens that doesn't have the clear reverse square in the middle? I'd like to go all red but of course the clear square makes that tough. I've seen them in pics a couple times, but no idea where they came from or if they were just modded. Thanks
  24. One more of that car. Yea that would be cool. I had visions of a tunnel ram on mine as well. Not going to happen, but the teenager in me wants to go for it.
  25. Just ran into this on Instagram. Don't know anything else about it.
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