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TheDude

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Everything posted by TheDude

  1. Just ran into this on Instagram. Don't know anything else about it.
  2. For the supply, it's using 3/8" and running with the stock line but then up behind the engine with a heat shield where it gets near the exhaust and engine.
  3. Just wanted to update for the next person. This is what we ended up doing for the return. Used the stock supply line as the return and a new line following the same path as the factory line for the supply. So far so good and no need to drop the tank.
  4. I put a Tremec T56 Magnum 6 speed in mine and it fit with no mods to anything in the tunnel or shifter location. As Tony mentioned, you'll need the right bell housing, crossmember and driveshaft of course.
  5. Not sure if this was mentioned yet, but RobbMc has a sending unit with a return line for these cars. http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/1101_fordsend.html. Other than draining the tank, seems like an easy option if you are going external pump.
  6. OK thanks. Going to try and get it in and have it aligned this week by someone who know's these cars. This thing isn't a dream ever right now. I have a hard time just staying in a lane unless the road is perfectly smooth.
  7. So it was actually higher than I thought at about 35. Lowered it to 25 and drove it. It's better but still all over the place. And just to correct the tire size, they are 255 35 20's.
  8. Hi Don and thanks for the reply. Good point, air pressure is 32PSI. I've never had it aligned. I'll drop the pressure down to 24-26 and see how that goes. Didn't even occur to me to try that.
  9. Hey Guys, I've had this car mostly parked for most of the time I've owned it as I've been going through different parts of the car so don't really have a good feel for how the car drives normally and hardly ever had it up to speed for more than a few times. Now I'm finally getting this thing more driveable and on different wheels and tires and now I'm finding that the steering is pretty terrible. The steering basically won't center and anything over 45-50MPH and this thing is all over the place. It seems to grab any contour in the road and darts off that way. It's genuinely not safe to drive like this even around town. While I didn't drive it much before changing the wheels and tires, I don't think I noticed it being this bad. A little while back I had a local Mustang shop give it the once over and they told me the suspension is fine. Ball joints, wheel bearings etc. everything looks solid. Could use new strut rod bushings at some point, but not bad. Right now I am running on very low profile tires, too low actually, but it's what came with the wheels and not ready to replace them just yet. It's on 235 X 30 X 20's. The wheels are 20 X 8.5 and there is a 1" spacer. So any thoughts on if this is just alignment, tires, strut rod bushing or is something genuinely messed up in the suspension? Thanks for any advice.
  10. Not specifically on this car, but I have seen people run the return to the filler pipe. That way they can remove the filler pipe, do the plumbing and put it back. I could see that being noisy if nothing else, but it is something people do. Also on other cars, I've seen them plumbed into the sending unit cover. So you can get a new sending unit, plumb it to take the return then drain the tank and install. Again no idea if that would work on this car.
  11. Wow, this post just made me realize that the ones in my car are very wrong. They are DIY carpeted things that are just about rotted away and basically like a big triangle. I was about to make a new set based on those. But now I see I can buy something that is actually the right shape. Thanks
  12. Many thanks to OMS who took the time to PM to point out that the upper studs are actually adjustable with a hex key. For some reason I managed to miss that staring at them 4" away and from the pics. While still not perfect, that got me very close. Close enough to call it good until I get new weather strips as that will likely change things again. Now starting to put the interior together throughout the car. Thanks again to OMS and everyone else that helped out.
  13. Thanks for that. Spent a couple more hours messing with it and still having trouble. I've had the whole thing in and out a bunch of times, loosened and moved things all over. It's better now, but not great. I can get the window closed and the top edge looks OK. The lower edge is still too close to the body by the door and too far at the rear. Up front I was able to get it better by adding a washer behind the bolt nearest the top front edge. The back I just can't get right no matter how much I mess with it. It all works now, but it will leak like crazy in the back and will ruin the seal up front. Not really sure how to adjust it closer to the body as shimming seems to make everything go the other way. To make this more weird, there is a pretty sizable gap between the quarter window and the door window so that doesn't seal at all either. Not really sure how to deal with that last one as the window is seated well in the back. Some of this can be probably made better by using new rubber all around. I had just replaced the belt line felt and managed to ruin it as it the glass was too tight up against it. I would say the car is the problem, but of course the quarter window was fine before I decided to do this 30 minute window swap. Maybe I'll grab some pics of what I'm dealing with so you can all have a chuckle at this.
  14. Well this is turning out to be a lot more complicated that I had thought. The passenger window went in and fit fine the first go. Now I've spent a few hours on the driver one where I actually knew what I was doing and it still doesn't work well. Tony, I do know what you are talking about with the L notch. Tried a few different things there and really didn't get anywhere productive yet, but I'll keep trying. David, on the shims, I assume they go behind the bracket on the bolts that mount it to the car, is that right? Thanks
  15. Well crap. He actually did that already with the urethane. So the rubber is glued to the glass. It leaks about half way up one side that in both lower corners
  16. I just sent him that info and told him that it looks like it was done wrong. I'm pretty sure i know the answer to this, but if it was done wrong, there is no fixing this, right? Basically new rubber and start over with the right stuff?
  17. Thanks for that. I wasn't able to watch everything as I was trying to work while he was doing his thing. But I'm thinking he used the same urethane he used to seat the windshield. He laid a bead of it around the base and the window was narrower than he thought so there is a part on the edge that missed the sealer. He knew this and told me as much. Told me he'd come back and fix it when I do the trim. The more I think about this the worse it is and I should have made a bigger deal about this at the time. So now I need to figure out if I try and make this work and live with it or pull it out which will of course be an even bigger pain than pulling the old stuff out. And then I need to pay to do it again more than likely.
  18. Update - I finally went ahead and had someone else do it. I had to replace the windshield anyway so figured I'd have them do the back at the same time. Found a guy that does a lot of classic cars and seemed to know exactly how to do this. I removed the window myself and cleaned up and prepped the frame to seal it and make it smooth. Told him what I know about this from reading here and he basically waved me off and said he's got this. Sure enough he had the window installed in about 15 min. After he's done I ask when I should check for leaks and he tells me the next day. So next day I run out with a hose and it's leaking worse than with the almost 50 year old rubber that had giant chunks missing. He's coming back on Friday to try and fix it. I'm pretty sure his plan is to squirt as much goo as possible in the gap around the seal. He really wants to do the molding at the same time as I suspect it'll be tough to work with once there is 8lbs of sealer in there. I don't want to put the molding on yet as I need to try and straighten it and have it gold plated (joke) before it goes back on. That and it will be easier to wrap the car without the molding on there. So other than leaving the clips exposed, any advice on how to handle this? I suspect that if I tell him I want to start over that I'll need to pay again since I provided the weatherstrip. Thanks
  19. A bunch more trial and error last night. Loosened everything up and that bottom bolt did help the top of the glass land where it needs to be. But I'm still having a front to back issue that I didn't see before as the whole thing was so out of whack. Basically the front edge by the door is smashed up against the weather strip hard. So hard that it basically ripped off the edge molding / weather strip on the glass when I was testing it. The other edge toward the back is out away from the weather strip so it's not even touching. No amount of moving things around has changed that yet. So I think I need to add some spacers and what not as David had mentioned above. While I don't see it, to me it seems like the main bracket must be tweaked.
  20. OK thanks for the great feedback. I'll give it another try this afternoon. I was wondering about that connector at the floor but it didn't look slotted at a glace. I'll dig in a little deeper into that and report back. Thanks
  21. Hi guys, Finally got around to doing my roll down quarter window conversion on my 72 fastback. Started on the passenger side, took a couple hours just figuring out what's what, but worked great and am thrilled with the results. The driver side went really quick now that we know how to do it, but the alignment is off. The window is up against the enough that I need to push it in from the outside to get it to sit in the weather seal and wants to basically rip off the felt on the bottom seal. loosened everything up, moved things around, took everything out looking for something bent or twisted, everything looks good and same thing. Is there an adjustment for that direction that can move it away from the body and toward the interior? Thanks!
  22. Ah, OK, so this is the type of problem you were talking about. A lot more fussy than it looked at first glance.
  23. Thanks Don. I was wondering if that little plate was a bit of a red herring. So are there contacts for front and back behind that signal cam? I assumed it's just left and right so trying to understand how just the rears aren't working.
  24. First, take this with a grain of salt as I'm checking fitment my bouncing the car and I haven't been able to drive it yet. They are 315 35 20s on 20X9.5 wheels on 1" spacers. I'll need to look up backspacing again. Here's another view with some audio assistance. [video=youtube]
  25. Hello, I replaced my broken turn signal cam. Simple enough with just splicing in two wires on the cam. When I got done the rear signals don't work. The fronts still work and at normal speed. I have the column hanging doing some other work on the dash so the column is hanging more or less parallel with the floor. When I getting things together on the floor of the car to put in the replacement part this little metal bar fell down. No idea if that's even part of the switch or if it came from something else. Is that part of the switch and if so can that be causing the issue with the rear lights? Thanks!
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