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Everything posted by TheDude

  1. I pulled apart the Bosch gauge and installed it in the 3 gauge pod where the ammeter was. It fits in pretty great in there with the two threaded posts going through the stock holes from the ammeter. Then put on a couple nuts to stand it off the right distance and angle on the inside of the cover and a couple more on the outside. There is actually a groove on the inside that the inner nuts sit in perfectly so once the outside nuts are installed the inside nuts are locked in place and won't loosen. Just took a few minutes to get that mounted and looks pretty clean. This is the only pic I have of it before going back together. Also pulled out the blue lenses and replaced with blue LEDs.
  2. Just thought I'd post a quick update as it's been awhile. Here it is with 315's. I did need to add a spacer to get them to fit. The fenders were rolled somewhat by the previous owner so the outside looks good so far. The inside was very tight and needed a little persuasion to get clearance. It all looks like it should work now if I bounce the rear end around. Haven't driven it yet as we have the interior torn out right now.
  3. I did same as a couple others listed here. Stock oil and temp and a Bosch volt meter. This one had no gauges in the center so added the whole pod and powered them from a little solid state regulator behind the cluster. The only sort of obvious thing if you are looking is the volt needle is brighter than the others. Otherwise it looks pretty stock and all works well.
  4. Cool, thanks for the connection, I reached out to him.
  5. llo, Picked up a parts set off of ebay some time ago to convert the rear windows to roll down. Looks like I'm missing one of the clamp plates, I think for the driver side. Does anyone know where to source these? Been looking on ebay and I found one that looks like the same one I already have but nothing else. Thanks for any help and here's a pic of everything I have.
  6. OK perfect. Sounds like the 12V is normal until I rework the wiring behind the dash. And yes, that engine side harness looks exactly right other than the plug being incorrect, but will still work. Thanks again for all the help.
  7. Sorry still not sure I'm getting this. Is that why I'm seeing 12V at that plug on the wires that go to the sending units? Will that drop down once the engine starts or something like that?
  8. OK, than any thoughts on why I'm getting 12v at the plug? The gas gauge works as does the oil pressure light. Well at least the light goes on and then turns off as it starts. And stays on if disconnected from the sender. Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
  9. Thanks for the great feedback so quickly. I think the car had a 302 originally. The dash is currently setup for idiot lights and not gauges. Working my way to under the dash here soon, hopefully as soon as tomorrow. So the senders get sent voltage? Boy I really misunderstood how those work. I really thought they just varied resistance to ground and no the actual voltage happened at the sender. I have a little solid state voltage regulator that I was planning on using on the gauges so I didn't need to deal with the old style voltage regulator. Now I'm a little confused on what I need to do to convert from lights to gauges. Sounds like I need to send regulated voltage out to the sending units? Not sure about colors at the moment as everything is black / dirty, I did verify that on the 3 pin and 3 pin colors match and are the same as my wiring diagram for water and oil. Thanks
  10. Hello, preparing for the end of the world so cleaning up the wiring in my '72 formerly auto non AC car and ordered this new feed cable to go from the firewall to the sensors. https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-engine-gauge-feed-wiring-harness-usa-made-351c-1971/p/WGF6C/ My car has a 351C but didn't come with that originally and I didn't catch the difference before ordering. My current feed harness has 4 cables where this one only has 3. Of the 4 on the old harness 2 are actually cut off at the plug. The two remaining has one going to the oil pressure switch and the other powers the ignition. Not sure how that happened, but that's the way it is now. I have a wiring diagram, but not able to make sense of this. I'm changing from lights to gauges so I replaced the sending units and figured I'd just restore the cabling to what it was and go from there. Looking at this closer, it looks like the wires work out if I just plug in the new 3 wire feed cable into the 4 wire connector with the power and oil pressure in the same locations. Not sure if that is wise or not so figured I'd check here and find out how this should be working. I don't care if it's factory accurate, but I want it to work well. I also stuck a meter on the connector at the firewall and I'm getting switched 12V on 3 pins and ground on the 4th. So now I'm more confused as I didn't think there should be power going to the sending units. Hope that makes sense. But basically are the cables on that 3 wire harness in the same locations if I plug into that 4 pin connector at the firewall? Is 12V going to the senders normal? Is that where the ignition usually get's it's power? And for bonus points, right next to that 4 pin connector at the firewall, there is a 2 pin connector hanging at the firewall that has switched 12V. Anyone know what this is for? Thanks as always for any help figuring this out.
  11. Excellent info, thanks much for putting that together. I actually laughed out loud at the idea of pressurizing the inside of the car. Between weather stripping and my Swiss cheese firewall you could set off a bomb in that thing without breaking a window.
  12. Thanks Don. I had seen that. It was mostly written up 10 years ago so thought it was fair to ask in case anything has changed or there were better options for parts, sealers etc. Also just a lot easier for me to process stuff like that while seeing it which is why I asked about the video.
  13. I need to replace the rear window weatherstrip on my '72 fastback. Wondering if this is basically the procedure to get that done? This is for a windshield on an older model, but seems like the same idea for the rear glass. If so are their parts a solid choice? https://www.cjponyparts.com/window-weatherstrip-rear-fastback-1971-1973/p/WSRW7/ and https://www.cjponyparts.com/windshield-window-sealant-tube/p/ADWT/ Probably new molding clips as well I would assume. Thanks
  14. Cool thanks. That helps, I keep running into people who tell me you can't put big wheels on an old car. These are more beat up than that pic, but not bad.
  15. Interesting. We had joked about making something like that but not seriously. Not entirely sure that would look good or corny. I suppose something subtle like a dust shield and probably black and not a fake Brembo or something could better than an old drum. Thanks!
  16. I don't have any pics of the wheels on the car, but this is the wheel. Still not sure how I feel about them, but they'll have to do for now. I don't love seeing the drum brake so well through that open wheel. Might have to paint the drums red and put a Brembo sticker on them :P
  17. Thanks for the quick reply and great info as always. Seeing that I went ahead and went for it. A quick trial fit and it looks like they will work and be a step up from what I have now. Fronts will need a spacer, rears don't need one, but will certainly look better with one as they sit in from the fender pretty far. I'm going to try and stuff 315/35's on the back so I'll check the spacing once I have those installed as they are quite tall. Thanks again for the help!
  18. I need to get different wheels on my 72 fastback as I have a couple of them with problems and we are going more restomod than stock. On a very tight budget and a buddy has some 20X9.5's with a 1.25" offset that he'll let me trade for. I haven't seen them yet so I can't measure anything. Anyone know it these might fit front and back? Guessing some spacers might be involved. I get that a lot of people don't like the larger wheels. This is a more or less temporary setup until I can afford wheels I actually want. Thanks
  19. OK cool, so those include the plate? Wish they would say that in the descriptions or in pics as I've seen these boots around all in searching for this but never seen them with the plate in the pics. That 3 speed models doesn't look great, but looks like should work better with the round shifter stick I'm using. Thanks!
  20. Hello, working on fixing up the interior and I'll be using a mini console over the manual shifter. This car came with no trans so not sure what kind of boot is supposed to go on there. Not worried about being super original, but would prefer that it well sealed and using original mounting holes on the tunnel. Is there typically a single boot on the shifter or is there usually a lower boot sealing at the tunnel and an upper that's more decorative or just one up top? If so any ideas on what affordable boots will work and how to actually hold them to the floor? Is there some kind of retainer plate or something like that? Not sure if it matters, but the trans is a T56 Magnum and sits a little farther forward in the stock opening, so whatever boot is used it needs to be pliable enough not to try and pull the shifter out of gear. Thanks as usual for any input.
  21. OK that makes sense. Yes, the engine runs. The testing like you suggested from the battery to the tach output of the adapter gets me steady voltage. So I'm thinking the adapter is shot Tested the tach and getting around an ohm give or take so I have hope there. A buddy of mine has another spare 8920 that I'm going to try out this weekend. Thanks for the help getting it this far.
  22. Hmm, either still not doing something right, or the tach / tach adapter is broken. FWIW, I am pretty handy with electrical stuff in general, just haven't done much if anything with vintage gauges.
  23. OK, so looks like 12V switched to the male lead on the tach and red tach out from the 8920 goes to the female side. Thought I tried that but wasn't getting anywhere. I'll try again. Thanks for the info and the feedback on voltages as well Don.
  24. Thanks for that. For the moment, I am just trying to hook this up leaning on the fender and not in the dash yet so nothing to do with existing wiring in the harness. I just want to make sure everything works before tearing the dash apart. So from here, I have two wires on the tach, what does each go to? One I presume goes to the red wire on the tach adapter. Is that right? If so which wire on the tach should go to the tach adapter, male or female? The other wire, should that be a standard 12V switched + or is that one of the voltage regulated 5-6V sources like the water temp or something else entirely? Thanks!
  25. Thanks for the quick feedback. So first question is, do you know which wire is which when looking at that the tach? Since I have the bare tach, I don't know which wire goes where. I have two black wires on a plug with a male and female side. Do you know which is which? Sounds like you are saying one of those wires goes a switched power source and the other goes to the 8920 Red wire, is that right? That makes more sense, I was assuming one side was ground. Thanks again for the help.
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