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Everything posted by TheDude

  1. Cool thanks. That helps, I keep running into people who tell me you can't put big wheels on an old car. These are more beat up than that pic, but not bad.
  2. Interesting. We had joked about making something like that but not seriously. Not entirely sure that would look good or corny. I suppose something subtle like a dust shield and probably black and not a fake Brembo or something could better than an old drum. Thanks!
  3. I don't have any pics of the wheels on the car, but this is the wheel. Still not sure how I feel about them, but they'll have to do for now. I don't love seeing the drum brake so well through that open wheel. Might have to paint the drums red and put a Brembo sticker on them :P
  4. Thanks for the quick reply and great info as always. Seeing that I went ahead and went for it. A quick trial fit and it looks like they will work and be a step up from what I have now. Fronts will need a spacer, rears don't need one, but will certainly look better with one as they sit in from the fender pretty far. I'm going to try and stuff 315/35's on the back so I'll check the spacing once I have those installed as they are quite tall. Thanks again for the help!
  5. I need to get different wheels on my 72 fastback as I have a couple of them with problems and we are going more restomod than stock. On a very tight budget and a buddy has some 20X9.5's with a 1.25" offset that he'll let me trade for. I haven't seen them yet so I can't measure anything. Anyone know it these might fit front and back? Guessing some spacers might be involved. I get that a lot of people don't like the larger wheels. This is a more or less temporary setup until I can afford wheels I actually want. Thanks
  6. OK cool, so those include the plate? Wish they would say that in the descriptions or in pics as I've seen these boots around all in searching for this but never seen them with the plate in the pics. That 3 speed models doesn't look great, but looks like should work better with the round shifter stick I'm using. Thanks!
  7. Hello, working on fixing up the interior and I'll be using a mini console over the manual shifter. This car came with no trans so not sure what kind of boot is supposed to go on there. Not worried about being super original, but would prefer that it well sealed and using original mounting holes on the tunnel. Is there typically a single boot on the shifter or is there usually a lower boot sealing at the tunnel and an upper that's more decorative or just one up top? If so any ideas on what affordable boots will work and how to actually hold them to the floor? Is there some kind of retainer plate or something like that? Not sure if it matters, but the trans is a T56 Magnum and sits a little farther forward in the stock opening, so whatever boot is used it needs to be pliable enough not to try and pull the shifter out of gear. Thanks as usual for any input.
  8. OK that makes sense. Yes, the engine runs. The testing like you suggested from the battery to the tach output of the adapter gets me steady voltage. So I'm thinking the adapter is shot Tested the tach and getting around an ohm give or take so I have hope there. A buddy of mine has another spare 8920 that I'm going to try out this weekend. Thanks for the help getting it this far.
  9. Hmm, either still not doing something right, or the tach / tach adapter is broken. FWIW, I am pretty handy with electrical stuff in general, just haven't done much if anything with vintage gauges.
  10. OK, so looks like 12V switched to the male lead on the tach and red tach out from the 8920 goes to the female side. Thought I tried that but wasn't getting anywhere. I'll try again. Thanks for the info and the feedback on voltages as well Don.
  11. Thanks for that. For the moment, I am just trying to hook this up leaning on the fender and not in the dash yet so nothing to do with existing wiring in the harness. I just want to make sure everything works before tearing the dash apart. So from here, I have two wires on the tach, what does each go to? One I presume goes to the red wire on the tach adapter. Is that right? If so which wire on the tach should go to the tach adapter, male or female? The other wire, should that be a standard 12V switched + or is that one of the voltage regulated 5-6V sources like the water temp or something else entirely? Thanks!
  12. Thanks for the quick feedback. So first question is, do you know which wire is which when looking at that the tach? Since I have the bare tach, I don't know which wire goes where. I have two black wires on a plug with a male and female side. Do you know which is which? Sounds like you are saying one of those wires goes a switched power source and the other goes to the 8920 Red wire, is that right? That makes more sense, I was assuming one side was ground. Thanks again for the help.
  13. Hey guys and Happy New Year! I'm trying to get a factory tach in my non tach 72. I have a Mallory Hyfire VI-A ignition. Trying to see if i can get this working without sending it out to be converted as I already have an MSD 8920 tach adapter. Seems like it should work as I believe the tach signal is the same coming out of the ignition. I'm having a hard time understanding how to hook up the adapter to the tach itself. The instructions are here https://documents.holley.com/8920.pdf but it's just not clear to me how I need to hook up the adapter to the two wires on the factory tach. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks!
  14. Hey guys, just wanted to post an update on this for anyone else. So this really boiled down to a botched initial install. The guys I had help with the install just ended up not even looking at the instructions. To be fair, what we had was a box of parts and no directions. The directions we got from American Powertrain after the fact wasn't quite right for this car and the parts I had, so it would have taken a little creativity to make this right. Well it turns out they did just about everything wrong and still managed to get technically working. Working meaning it would shift albeit terribly. I finally found a great guy here locally who tore everything apart and put it all back together right. Things were so bad that the master cylinder was actually hosed after less than 20 miles from being installed at the wrong angle and the slave was over extended. I'm pretty convinced that they never even looked at the instructions I gave them as just about everything was wrong. Even if they weren't quite right, the basics were there. Of well, my fault for not doing better homework. Now with everything setup correctly a new master and a rebuilt slave, everything is working great and we can finally get on with the rest of this build. Thanks for the comments and feedback.
  15. Thanks. I had heard mostly good things about them as well. I had some small issues I needed help with and just couldn't get a call back. That was on multiple occasions with multiple issues. They were great on the phone, then never call me back or never send the email they said they would. Finally got those little issues resolved, but not crazy about having to deal with them again on this. Of course when I put in a request to get a quote on a full trans kit for a few grand I got near instant response. Thanks for the offer, let me work more on getting them directly more before doing pulling that pin. And either way I've finally come around to the idea that I will need to pull the trans again and just looking for a plan to move forward. Really am liking the idea of going to an external slave if I can figure out how to get that together.
  16. Yup, I reached out and will be talking to them again. They have just been pretty miserable to deal with in the past so I was just hoping to find someone else that had some real world experience with these things.
  17. Yes that is correct. There is setting the gap and also there is setting a hard limit on the pedal. If the pedal doesn't have a hard stop, it can make the bearing over extend even if the spacing is set correctly at the bearing. I went over that again and again with the guys I had doing the work, but it never really felt like they were 100% comfortable with what they were doing. I think in the end they just got it working and gave it back to me. So trying now to find someone else who can help but won't break the already broken bank.
  18. I definitely would have preferred an external or maybe even manual clutch. This unit was in a box with the car and trans when I got it so had to give it a shot as it's all quality stuff and already paid for. But the flip side is hardly anyone around here has worked with this kind of thing and there is a bit of fiddling to get things right. Apparently more than a bit actually as that trans has been in and out a bunch of times already and it still isn't drivable. Guessing someone who actually knew what they were doing could get this right quickly, but I'm not that guy unfortunately.
  19. Hey guys, I'm pretty sure I know what the answer is here, but wanted to see if I'm missing something. We converted my '72 Fastback from an auto to a T56 Magnum 6 speed. To operate the clutch, we went with a Hydramax hydraulic system from American Powertrain. It's never worked well since day one and the clutch has been VERY stiff since it was installed. But it worked enough and figured I'd circle back around to making it more drive-able once I get a few more things crossed off the list. The other day in the driveway I was taking a look at the linkage trying to see if I could do anything to make it a bit easier to use. Didn't change anything but just pumped it 4 times to see how it felt. Very stiff and not usable, maybe even worse than before. Then I noticed that the fluid reservoir was empty and there was a pool of fluid under the car. So yea it dumped all the fluid and all at once. If I put fluid back in, it doesn't go down, but the clutch doesn't work either. So I'm thinking the slave either over extended or just blew it's seals. Either way the trans comes off and likely needs to at least rebuild the slave. Does that sound about right? Really not wanting to have to go through all that again if I can avoid it, especially if it won't work better than before so hoping someone may see something I don't. American Powertrain has been sort of a pain to work with so wanted to check in here and see if anyone can offer any wisdom. Thanks
  20. my friend uses this guy . i had some work done hear and seem fare Henry's radiator and auto repair 3035 el cajon blvd 619-283-7423 Thanks, I'll look him up! And yes we get amazing weather here normally. This summer has been exceptional though. The mildest summer I can ever recall that followed an actual winter (for San Diego) where it rained and stuff.
  21. Hey Mike, Thanks for that. That's a little out of the way, but might be worth the drive / tow. The local guys I was using nearby are also a muffler shop that works on other things. I'll look them up. Thanks!
  22. Hi everyone, not sure if this is the right place for this, but thought I'd give it a shot. I'm looking for a mechanic in San Diego to help out with my 72' Fastback project. We purchased the car about a year ago basically out of a field and have been getting it going with my son over that time. I work a lot and it I seldom have more than an hour here or there to work on it. It was an auto car and came with no trans installed and a new T56 magnum in a box in the back seat. We've managed to get the trans installed and the car drives, but are constantly struggling with the hydraulic clutch. We had a local shop around the corner help with the clutch pedal / hydraulic conversion and while great guys, this really wasn't up their alley and things have never been right. I am hoping to find someone local that can help with this stuff and who would be affordable. I checked some of the local speed shops and they are just way out of my price range. I am on a very tight budget as I've already spent basically everything I can while staying married. So anyway, if anyone know's someone solid here in San Diego that can help with these clutch issues and much more ... and is affordable I'd appreciate the referral. Thanks!
  23. Sorry, why would this need to be adjustable? The stock one isn't or is it?
  24. Thanks for all the comments. I do have the correct sending units for gauges. I am also replacing the stock ammmeter with a voltmeter as that was cheap and seems more relevant. I think I'll go ahead and switch to a solid state regulator as that should be more reliable long term and will give more consistent output compared to the older mechanical style. Maybe something like this. https://amzn.to/2LBpCCV. The actual regulator in that package probably costs a few cents but this is still cheap enough so why not as it's easier to work with.
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