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Everything posted by TheDude

  1. I'm a bit of a hack when it comes to this stuff and can deal with basics, but could use some help before digging into this. I have a 351C 4V in my '72 fastback project. The engine has always run rougher than seems right, but I chocked that up to carb tuning etc as we've been focused on converting to manual trans and other items. After a basic tune up (plugs, wires, cap and rotor), the car runs better, but still not quite right and seems like it's missing at least at low RPM. The car is running a Mallory Hyfire VI-A ignition and distributor. I finally broke out my IR temp gun and measured the temp of the headers at each cylinder and my #1 cylinder is cold. It is getting spark and if I pull the plug it's of course nasty / fouled and covered with gas. Swapped it out with a new one and same thing. That cylinder just seems dead. I probably won't get to this for a few days, but could use some guidance on debugging it. I'm thinking my first stop should be a compression check, but beyond that I really don't have a game plan. I'd appreciate any recommendations on where to go with this and how to debug it. Thanks
  2. Just thought I'd follow up on this thread. I finally was able to get a hydraulic setup working. Still having some issues with it, but it's running and driving now, so that's a huge improvement over where it was a couple months ago. Thanks for all the advice and comments.
  3. Sorry, I must be thick headed, but I'm not really getting what the issues are with just running wire from the coil and sensors under the hood to the back of the tach and other gauges. I actually do have a complete wiring harness as well from the donor car, I just am having a hard time understanding why I would need to use it other than to make things look factory. What's the issue with just bringing up those cables from the engine compartment to the dash? Is the connector on the back for the speedo / tach pod substantially different? Obviously it would have the extra wires in it for the idiot lights and none for the tach. Is the actual plug different though? Thanks
  4. OK thanks. From that drawing it would seem to look like I could just add a small resistor between the side of the coil and the tach and that would get me there on the tach. I'll try and dig up more info and maybe just test under the hood to before ripping the dash apart.
  5. Different than what I have now? I literally just had a driveshaft made. I really hope I don't need to redo that again.
  6. Thanks. I had looked at the rocketman conversions before. I got the gauges bundled in with a bunch of other stuff so it was pretty cheap. On my mile long list of things to do, replacing the whole harness just isn't something I'm going to get to anytime soon. I haven't opened it up before, but the back of the tach enclosure looks like it has a couple wires going to it that are separate from the circuit board thing. Is that the source for the tach? If so that looks like it might hook up like any other tach? Same for the center gauges as they are all just a couple of wires. Seems like I could wire from new oil and temp sensors to those gauges without dealing with the harness, much like if I installed after market gauges. Is that not the case? Thanks
  7. My '72 Fastback came with the factory idiot light cluster rather than a tach. I manged to pick up an original tach gauge cluster and the center dash gauge pod with the 3 gauges. I really don't want to get into replacing the complete harness for this. Is there a reasonable way to get these gauges working without replacing the whole harness? Not sure if sensors need to be changed and new wiring need to be run or what exactly. This isn't going for a restoration or show car, so I just want the wiring to be functional and clean, so not worried about originality behind the dash. I also wouldn't mind replacing that AMP gauge with a volt meter if there is a way to do that and have it look like the other gauges. Thanks
  8. OK cool, the 4.11's are sounding like the way to go. Now I just need to figure out how to get that done. There were no mods needed to the tunnel other than opening up the hole for the shifter a bit, but even that was pretty minor. I've also read that there were tunnel mods needed but there were no clearance issues while getting the right angle. It's tight, but it fits fine on my car.
  9. Grabbed the app, thanks! With 4.11's it's telling me I can go 41 in 1st and 203MPH in 6th @ 5000RPM! lol Not really sure where I would really want to be for those lower gears.
  10. Sorry, spaced out when writing that and corrected it now. The trans is a T56 Magnum Here's the gearing. T56 Magnum Currently have 275/60 15's on the back. That will change to a 17" or 18" wheel at some point, but about the same diameter. I don't know what cam it has although I was told it has a mild cam and has a slight lope when idling which may or may not be from the cam.
  11. We've been putting together a '72 fastback 351C 4V project for a few months now. We got the car with no trans installed but included a new in box Tremec T56 Magnum Speed manual. Not my first choice for a trans, but it's a great trans and it was part of the deal so we went for it. So we've spent the last few months converting from auto to manual and finally have it running and driving. Now that we have it going it seems pretty clear that it is geared too tall. I can run around my neighborhood in 1st gear or drive at 60 in 3rd . It feels like a car that's meant to cruise at 90 vs get up to 60. This isn't going to be a race car, but we want it to be quick off the line and still be able to cruise on the freeway, which I think it is the point of the 6 speed manual. I think the car has a 3.25:1 rear end right now. Appreciate any input on rear end gearing to get this thing to be quicker off the line while still being driveable on the freeway.
  12. Yes, I am seeing what looks like a solid squirt from the accelerator pump. After going through the basics on the ignition, that was my next thought and spent a bit of time verifying that it was squirting and trying the different settings on the pump to go earlier or later. The wires, plugs, cap and rotor we all in bad shape and needed to be changed. Those did improve things a lot. The only thing I was looking at buying was a better timing gun and vacuum gauge. Both seem pretty basic for a good tune I would think.
  13. Unfortunately getting the Mustang and the 1.2 million parts I've already purchased has pretty much used up all my credit with Mr C. and more importantly with Mrs Dude.
  14. Some great comments and awesome info. You guys are asking a lot of questions I don't know the answers to yet unfortunately. Still just getting acquainted with the engine. The block is a 1970, not sure about the heads. Hell I don't even have a working tach right now and my cheap timing light doesn't do RPM, so just winging it. Sounds like I need to get my crap together to address this all the right way. I've been running the idle a bit higher than I like to try and work around the low RPM stumbling. I'll get more aggressive with timing this afternoon and double check for vacuum leaks and move to that advance to not ported later this afternoon and report back. Thanks for all the great and rapid advice.
  15. OK, that's good to hear that the 750 CFM should work. Looks like a Torquer 2 manifold. I'm running at about 10 degrees advanced attached to ported vacuum. I don't currently have a vacuum gauge but have ordered one. On the timing really just ended up there as that's where it seems to be running best and not sure really where it ought to be.
  16. Thanks and agreed on the possible ignition problems. That's where I spent most of my time. Replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil. Old plugs were mostly OK with a couple that were borderline fouled. It still feels like ignition, but with everything seemingly OK, I have been wondering about the carb. I'll double check the voltage, never heard of that and I'll see about getting a better ground on the block. Thanks
  17. Hello, picked up a 72 Fastback with a 351C 4V a few months back. Been working my way through an auto to 6 speed manual trans swap and am now struggling a bit to get the engine running right. The car starts and runs well once it warms up, but at low RPM it just falls flat. Once RPM gets a bit higher, its great and pulls hard, but off the line it's terrible to the point of being difficult to drive as it will sputter miss. It's running an Edelbrock intake and 1407 750 CFM carb with a Mallory HyFire 6A ignition and long tube headers. Went through the fuel system, new plugs, wires, coil, tried timing all over etc. It's all way better now than when I started working on it, but still has that dead spot that makes it a handful to drive. Accelerator pump seems to be working OK and changing to the position on the pump linkage doesn't seem to make a ton of difference. I don't have a lot of info on the engine. I was told it had a mild cam, but that was unclear as the previous actual owner was not available and the info was maybe 3rd hand. From the beginning it seemed like this might be too much carb for the car but I really don't know enough about this engine or the 351C to know if that's true or if that's what is causing this issue. I'm not in a position to just buy another carb to see if that might work right now, so hoping I can get this sorted out enough to make it more drive-able. Thanks for any advice.
  18. Thanks, I am digging into this. The hardest part along with the cash was that I had set myself a drop dead date a couple months ago to have this thing driving by Thanksgiving. Frankly I thought I was going to be way ahead that, but unsurprisingly I suppose, things took way longer and got a lot more expensive than I had hoped. So I was really hoping to find something local from OEM parts that I could grab to get me rolling. Looks like I just need to suck it up as I won't be driving this thing on turkey day.
  19. I hear you and thanks for the feedback, but it doesn't look like that's in the cards at the moment. I have no problem with pulling the trans out again as we done that about 10 times now. Just need to get this thing driving now and cheaply as I have a lot of other things that need attention on the car and a marriage that needs to stay in tact :)
  20. I'm most of the way though converting my 72 Fastback from auto to a T56 Magnum. What's left is I need to work out the clutch cable setup. I'll be going hydraulic at some point, but right now I'm going to keep it mechanical. I really just need to get this thing driving as cheaply as possible at this point then circle back around when I have some more cash. I swapped out the entire pedal assembly with a factory manual pedal setup, so that end is basically what it would have been if it came with a manual. In the interests of keeping this cheap for the moment, what I'd like to know is if there is a cable that will go from the stock pedals to the new clutch setup without a conversion kit? This kit looks like where I want to be, but any chance a stock cable would work for this? If so, anyone know where to even get one as I'm not having luck chasing those down. http://transmission.moderndriveline.com/speed/pc/Clutch-Cable-kit-1971-73-Mustang-Cougar-p157.htm Next I need a clutch fork. MDL has this. Is there anything special about this or can i just get any fork for the same application newer Mustang? http://transmission.moderndriveline.com/speed/pc/Clutch-lever-94-04-Mustang-T-5-T-45-3650-4-6L-T-56-p127.htm And finally I need a throw out bearing but have no idea what I need. Appreciate any feedback on this one. Again I know that I should probably just suck it up and go hydraulic now, but this I need to get this wrapped up quickly and cheaply for the moment and revisit later. Thanks for any advice.
  21. Thanks! Also, a quick update that we installed the trans this weekend. Still need to work out the cross member, pedals and have a driveshaft made, but one step closer.
  22. Thanks and hope your family had a nice time out here. It's actually been a hot summer out here as well. Not so much extreme temps, but just consistently high temp and high humidity... for San Diego. And no joke about the real estate prices, we live in an older neighboorhood in the middle of town, nothing special and a 1500SF house on a small lot across the street just sold for $980K. Nice enough place, but I mean the place doesn't even have central heating and AC!
  23. That worked, Thanks much! Finally able to sit in the car and start it. Any chance you know what the other cables in that bundle are?
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