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kusanagi

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kusanagi last won the day on December 8 2019

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    71 MACH 1

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    Essex (UK)
  • Region
    Europe

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    Male

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  1. Hi I was just looking at your build and noticed that you are using the same cylinder heads as me ( Speedmaster ) and I thought that I would share my experince with them so far ( I still have not started the engine yet ), first check for swarf, mine had a fair amount of swarf in the water passages that needed cleaning out, check your pushrod clearance as this might need releaving ( mine did ) more so if using uprated pushrods ( larger diameter ). If you do not have the CNC'd heads you may need to clean casting flash from the ports, it's also worth CC'ing the chambers as well with the non CNC'd heads. If you got the model with the valves and springs included it is worth buying a set of hardend steel lash caps to go ontop of the valve stem as I beleve that the tips that the rockers touch are not hardend ( I have read about the valves mushrooming slightly on the tips with use ), the springs supplied are not very good ( I am only using them to bed in my cam ) and it is worth replacing them with something better, the same can be said for the caps and the collets. One last thing on the heads it may pay to lap the valves as well to check that they are seating properly. I also have the same inlet you have got and I thought that I should mention that if you are going to use the electric oil pressure sender without a spacer you will need to check that you clearence for it to fit as it might hit the manifold on fitting. I hope this advice is of some use.
  2. Yep it starts with, I will just sort out that small gearbox problem and that small bit of rust around the rear lights :P .
  3. Yep did all the welding myself ( I have got better over the years ). Where to start mmm, that's a difficult one, if I was looking to do a total restoration I would do what I did with this one, and tear it down to a bare shell ( filler hides horrors ) and that would give you good idea what you are looking at. If you are looking at doing a light resto the area's I would look at first would be the structure ( sills, torque boxes, subframes, floors and suspension mounts ), next I would look at the main shell ( a post, b post, etc ) paying close attention to the scuttle area ( heater vents ) as this is well known for rotting out and to repair it properly you need to take the windshield out, this leads to the next area I would look at, the windshield surround as this rots out quite regularly ( front and back ). Another area which can rot out is the bottom of the shock towers, any other panels ( front inner fenders, rear wings ) can be bought no problem just make sure that the stamping is correct before you cut out the old panel ( guess how I know this ). When fitting the chrome trim back in the door gap make sure you seal it well, or you will get leaks, and when fitting the rear lights back in use sealant on them as this is another area that can leak, put waxoil in all the box sections and any other area's which could get damp. I would also recommend fitting dynomat or a dynomat copy on the floors and in the doors as this will make the car a bit more comfortable. As for the wiring, what I did on my wiring was to put it back to stock, fit LED's on the internal lights, side lights and brake lights as this puts less stress on the wiring loom, put any extras on there own fuse box and loom. Another thing that I did was to replace the sealed beam headlamps with a set of range rover headlamps ( pattern on the reflector not the front ) and wired the lights so the switches only work relays and the main and dipped beams get power direct from the battery. If you look though my previous posts you should see what I mean on some of these area's. I hope this is of some help/information. Karl. P.S. If you do decide to go down the full resto route, be warned it can take a while, I have been working on mine for about 11 years.
  4. I will be using a MegaSquirt 3x ECU running full sequential ignition and injection.
  5. Well time for a very late update. Picking up where I left off, having got the engine more or less together I thought it was time to start making some of the bits for the EFI conversion. I started with sorting out the crank trigger wheel, this was made using a generic 36-1 missing tooth wheel onto which I need to fix some guides to make it stay central on the damper when fitted behind the crank pulley. Next I made the sensor bracket. Then I need to make a bracket to fit the LS2 truck coil packs. and as I forgot to post it last time a photo of the rockers. I now need to drill and tap the fuel rail blanks that I had bought. With this done the next job which was begging to be done was to sort out the rev counter. As I going to use EFI on the car the output for the rev counter was not compatible with the factory movement. To sort this out I managed to find on the internet a circuit diagram for building an adjustable rev counter. I then had to strip out the movement from an old smiths rev counter and make a bracket to fit this in my dash. With this done I could of used the smiths pointer but this would of looked wrong, so I made a new pointer using a scrap of aluminium which I filed to size and shape and then glued to the smiths pointer boss and then balanced it and lastly painted it the correct colour. I have also made the brackets and fitted a pair of electric fans to the radiator and also fitted the stainless steel exhaust tips. After doing these jobs I thought it was about time to work on the rear axle, as all I wanted to do was fit new bearings and change the crown wheel and pinion to a better ratio I did not think that this was going to be a hard job, WRONG, on taking the third member apart I had a nice surprise waiting for me. That's right a broken rear pinion support :@ . So that led to me spending more than I wanted to on this little lot. I decided to go for: Strange engineering nodular iron pro case Strange engineering alloy Daytona bearing support Strange engineering 1350 steel yoke Timken bearings Motive gear 3.75:1 crown wheel and pinion Eton truetrac LSD and a spicer u-joint to connect my existing propshaft to the new yoke. The only agro I had is that as I did not have a inch pound wrench for setting the preload so I needed to buy one, and I did buy one, and waited two weeks to get to me and then it went missing in the post ( courier said he delivered it at 5 in the morning ). I then had to get onto the supplier to get a refund, I managed to get one locally in the end. A bit of a fiddle getting the mesh on the gears right but I am happy with what I ended up with. With this done I could button the axle up. And fit it back in its home. Another job I have done is to fit a gearbox oil cooler. The next job I have got to do is sort the leak in the trunk out ( I have got to find where the leak is coming from ).
  6. I had a similar misalignment with my headers on these heads. To fix this I made a template up using the port on the head as a guide ( a piece of cardboard ) then I modified the flange area on my old headers to match, as they were an old set of Blackjack 2v headers they did not require much work ( the ports were very closely aligned and only required a little welding and grinding to enlarge them to match ).
  7. The cam I chose in the end was a Lunati 411A1 cam ( solid lifter ), this cam opens its exhaust valve at 77BBDC ( 60 @ .050 ) against the Lunati 62503 cam 72BBDC ( 50.5 @ .050 ), that means that 411A1 cam snaps the valve open earlier but also opens it a lot earlier at @ .050 lift aiding flow the downside to this cam is it has a steep ramp rate so it means it will need EDM lifters and will wear out a bit quicker than normal. 411A1 Solid Lifter specs RPM 2500-6500 Lobe sep 112 108 Center line 4 Degree's Advanced Lift at valve : Inlet .558 Exhaust .580 Valve lash : Inlet .018 Exhaust .020 Ex opens 77 BBDC ( 60 @ .050 ) Ex closes 25 ATDC ( 8 @ .050 ) In opens 28 BTDC ( 11 @ .050 ) In closes 64 ABDC ( 47 @ .050 ) Duration Inlet 272 ( 238 @ .050 ) Duration Exhaust 282 ( 248 @ .050 ) Overlap 53 ( 19 @ .050 ) 34 degree intensity on both
  8. This thread is of interest to myself as I have got the same heads and inlet, one thing I do remember reading when I was trying to decide on a cam was that if the exhaust valve was not opened early enough ( around 80 to 84 BBDC ) it can cause the top end torque to drop off like a brick at higher RPM's ( https://pantera.infopop.cc/topic/sticky-3-351c-basics-and-performance-tuning ). Being that your cam opens fairly late ( 72 BBDC on a lunati 62503 ) it could be a contributing factor, I can imagine having a larger capacity would also make this a little worse ( more gasses to get out ). As for the heads I found that they needed a little work in the chambers, they needed a bit of work around the valves as the valve area is a little shrouded, the chambers needed CC'ing and pointy bits needed removing and also a lot of casting flash needed removing in the ports ( most of this work is not needed on the CnC'd heads ). And lastly I have read that the inlet is not that good with a carb as with it being a low rise open plenum it can suffer from fuel drop out due to turbulence and poor port velocity but this mainly happens at low RPM ( to get around this myself I am going sequential EFI with a drilled manifold ).
  9. Well I phoned one of the firms in question ( this place had been recommend by a member of an owners club I belong to ) and had a very good talk with the person who I spoke to, he gave me a price on some 31 spline shafts ( £350 + VAT ), bearings ( £80 + VAT ), retainers ( £20 + VAT ) and studs ( £22 + VAT ) which was not too bad but he recommended that I stay with my existing 28 spline shafts as I am staying on street tyre's and he did not think that I would break them. I also got a quote on a complete third member built with a Strange case, Eaton Truetrac, Daytona pinion support, Timken bearings and a ratio of my choice ( £1425 +VAT ) which was not a too bad a this price as this works out about the same as getting a complete third member of the same spec from one of the major company's ( Summit, Jegs ) but with much cheaper shipping ( about £25 against £140-£220 from the USA ) plus if I have any warranty issues I only have to deal with a UK supplier. So it looks like I might go for this supplier instead of buying the parts separately and putting it together myself as I would only be saving about £150, all I have to do now is finalise which ratio to go for. Thanks for the offer of the case but after shipping costs to the UK I might as well go for a new case.
  10. I have used Summit Racing and Jegs before ( for my engine build ) and I have been getting most of my comparison prices from them, with both of them it works out cheaper to buy the parts separately from them and build the diff myself than try and get the exact spec of complete third member complete from them, also the shipping is not to bad from either of them, plus they sort out the import duty and VAT for me. As to availability of parts over here I have only three places which I have found so far that might do the parts I need but they are all fabricators for racing and I do not know what there pricing is like as there web sites say to contact for pricing ( never a good sign ), but I will contacting them over the next couple of days to find out the prices and availability of parts anyway.
  11. I forgot to mention my tyre size which is at the moment 255/60 15 cooper's ( 27 inch tall ) and I my be changing it for a 275/60 15 BFG not long after the car goes back on the road. I did look at quick performance and had considered them but I know someone over here ( UK ) that got a quote on shipping and they were very expensive to ship out of the USA, but I will keep them in mind as they have the cheapest complete third members that I have come across that aren't unnamed.
  12. Hi, I need a spot of advice on my axle components. I have been stripping my 9 Inch axle down to get it ready for a change of ratio and new bearings and have come across a couple of problems. The first problem up, is when I removed the third member and inspected it I found that it had a crack running through the rear pinion support rendering the third member scrap for my use, so I have decided to build an totally new third member assembly to my specs. I now need to choose a third member, there a several I am looking at: Summit racings nodular iron case Strange engineering's S nodular iron case Strange engineering's Pro series case ( preferred choice ) Are there any other cases I should be looking at. Next problem is too do with the axle shafts, being that my shafts are 28 spline at the moment and the engine will be producing around 380 too 450 BHP ( flywheel ) with possibly about 400 foot pounds of torque, what's the opinion on my shafts living with these power levels, would it be worth upgrading to 31 spline ( which I am trying to avoid due to the cost ) plus I have a small bearing axle so I will need the special bearings for this conversion and I have been told that these special bearings are no good for street use because they are too small and burn up ( have been told that I need to have large bearing hubs fitted to my axle which also means new back plates and drum assembly's ), I need people's opinion if this is true or not. I will fitting a Daytona pinion bearing conversion ( probably a Strange iron one ) and a corresponding yoke, I will also be using Timken bearings where possible. I am looking at an Eaton Truetrac LSD or should I be looking at a plate type LSD. Lastly I will also be getting a new crown wheel and pinion, I was looking at a ratio of 3.70:1 do you think this is ok or should I look at any other ratios as the car will mainly be used for shows and will not see hardly any motorways ( I will also be fitting an 4r70w at a later date ). Also any crown wheel and pinion makes recommended and any I should avoid. A few specs on the engine and gearbox: 351c, 3v alloy heads, solid lifter Lunati 411A1 cam, other internal mods to match the cam, sequential injection and spark, headers, 2.5 inch bore exhaust system. FMX gearbox with a B&M shift kit fitted and will be getting a 2800 stall converter. Any help and advice is greatly appreciated.
  13. Well time for a small update, I have been slowly been getting the parts together so I can assemble the engine and I now have all the parts need to start assembly. First up a photo of the parts got so far to build the engine. P1010205a by karl stroud, on Flickr Now with the new cam bearings installed. P1010206a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010207a by karl stroud, on Flickr Now with the cam installed with timing gear and timed. P1010208a by karl stroud, on Flickr Next up the pistons and rods installed. P1010221a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010222a by karl stroud, on Flickr Next up is the heads being installed. P1010224a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010225a by karl stroud, on Flickr And last of all a couple with the headers and inlet temp installed. P1010226a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010227a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010228a by karl stroud, on Flickr There are a few more jobs to be done to the engine, such as install the new correct length pushrods, install the new oil pump, install the rockers when the pushrods are fitted ( this lot can only be done when the part arrive ) and then I have got to get the injectors and drill the fuel rail and inlet and fit them ( and fit all the electronic sensors for the EFI conversion ). So near yet so far, but at least the end is in sight as far as the engine is concerned. The final build on the engine stands as: 351c bored +.060 Crank reground and worked on Speed pro hyper pistons Eagle con rods Lunati 411A1 Cam (30320511) Crower EDM metered flat tappet mech lifters Cloyes 9 way adjustable roller timing set Trick flow pushrods Comp cams guide plates Pioneer harmonic damper ( SFI rated ) Flowkooler waterpump Flowkooler high flow thermostat ( correct type ) Four seasons water neck Speedmaster alloy cylinder heads ( been heavily worked on ) Lunati valve springs ( to be fitted when the cam is bed in ) matching caps for above springs Speedmaster inlet to match heads ( to be modified for injectors ) Speedmaster four barrel throttle body ( not that bad just needs a little finishing ) Comp cams lash caps ( the speedmaster stainless steel valves do not have a hardened tip ) Scorpion 1.73 roller rockers Ford motorsport alloy rocker boxes ARP bolts used in all the important places ARP hardened oil pump drive shaft Sealed power standard oil pump Oil restrictors fitted to cam bearing feeds All bearings are Clevite ( the crank uses HD bearings ) Modified Blackjack headers The engines compression ratio worked out at about 9.8 to 1 I do not have a clue as to what power the engine is going to produce but I will be happy if it makes about 400hp at the crank. After I have got this finished it will be installed in the car and then I can get to finishing the interior and doing the one or two small external jobs which need to be done ( such as changing the torque converter to match the cam and changing the rear axle ratio to something a little better ).
  14. Got the same sizes on mine. P1010114a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010115a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010117a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010120a by karl stroud, on Flickr
  15. Hi, I had the same on both sides on my mach1. What I ended up doing was to remove the upper cowl area above the air vents by drilling out the welds with a spot weld drill and carefully cutting the upper cowl in a couple of area's so I did not have to remove the entire upper cowl. DSC00364a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00368a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00372a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00373a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00383a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00382a by karl stroud, on Flickr After I replaced all the rotten metal and rebuilt the vent I reshaped the area slightly to force any water to run away from the vent and toward the main drain, another thing I did was to totally seal around the vent where it attaches to the firewall with a high quality seam sealer to totally stop any future water ingress ( I also sealed any area in the cowl where water could get between any joins ). The next thing what I thought was worth doing was to make the main drain hole a bit larger so it could not be blocked by leaves.
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