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Everything posted by kusanagi

  1. Hi I was just looking at your build and noticed that you are using the same cylinder heads as me ( Speedmaster ) and I thought that I would share my experince with them so far ( I still have not started the engine yet ), first check for swarf, mine had a fair amount of swarf in the water passages that needed cleaning out, check your pushrod clearance as this might need releaving ( mine did ) more so if using uprated pushrods ( larger diameter ). If you do not have the CNC'd heads you may need to clean casting flash from the ports, it's also worth CC'ing the chambers as well with the non CNC'd heads. If you got the model with the valves and springs included it is worth buying a set of hardend steel lash caps to go ontop of the valve stem as I beleve that the tips that the rockers touch are not hardend ( I have read about the valves mushrooming slightly on the tips with use ), the springs supplied are not very good ( I am only using them to bed in my cam ) and it is worth replacing them with something better, the same can be said for the caps and the collets. One last thing on the heads it may pay to lap the valves as well to check that they are seating properly. I also have the same inlet you have got and I thought that I should mention that if you are going to use the electric oil pressure sender without a spacer you will need to check that you clearence for it to fit as it might hit the manifold on fitting. I hope this advice is of some use.
  2. Yep it starts with, I will just sort out that small gearbox problem and that small bit of rust around the rear lights :P .
  3. Yep did all the welding myself ( I have got better over the years ). Where to start mmm, that's a difficult one, if I was looking to do a total restoration I would do what I did with this one, and tear it down to a bare shell ( filler hides horrors ) and that would give you good idea what you are looking at. If you are looking at doing a light resto the area's I would look at first would be the structure ( sills, torque boxes, subframes, floors and suspension mounts ), next I would look at the main shell ( a post, b post, etc ) paying close attention to the scuttle area ( heater vents ) as this is well known for rotting out and to repair it properly you need to take the windshield out, this leads to the next area I would look at, the windshield surround as this rots out quite regularly ( front and back ). Another area which can rot out is the bottom of the shock towers, any other panels ( front inner fenders, rear wings ) can be bought no problem just make sure that the stamping is correct before you cut out the old panel ( guess how I know this ). When fitting the chrome trim back in the door gap make sure you seal it well, or you will get leaks, and when fitting the rear lights back in use sealant on them as this is another area that can leak, put waxoil in all the box sections and any other area's which could get damp. I would also recommend fitting dynomat or a dynomat copy on the floors and in the doors as this will make the car a bit more comfortable. As for the wiring, what I did on my wiring was to put it back to stock, fit LED's on the internal lights, side lights and brake lights as this puts less stress on the wiring loom, put any extras on there own fuse box and loom. Another thing that I did was to replace the sealed beam headlamps with a set of range rover headlamps ( pattern on the reflector not the front ) and wired the lights so the switches only work relays and the main and dipped beams get power direct from the battery. If you look though my previous posts you should see what I mean on some of these area's. I hope this is of some help/information. Karl. P.S. If you do decide to go down the full resto route, be warned it can take a while, I have been working on mine for about 11 years.
  4. I will be using a MegaSquirt 3x ECU running full sequential ignition and injection.
  5. Well time for a very late update. Picking up where I left off, having got the engine more or less together I thought it was time to start making some of the bits for the EFI conversion. I started with sorting out the crank trigger wheel, this was made using a generic 36-1 missing tooth wheel onto which I need to fix some guides to make it stay central on the damper when fitted behind the crank pulley. Next I made the sensor bracket. Then I need to make a bracket to fit the LS2 truck coil packs. and as I forgot to post it last time a photo of the rockers. I now need to drill and tap the fuel rail blanks that I had bought. With this done the next job which was begging to be done was to sort out the rev counter. As I going to use EFI on the car the output for the rev counter was not compatible with the factory movement. To sort this out I managed to find on the internet a circuit diagram for building an adjustable rev counter. I then had to strip out the movement from an old smiths rev counter and make a bracket to fit this in my dash. With this done I could of used the smiths pointer but this would of looked wrong, so I made a new pointer using a scrap of aluminium which I filed to size and shape and then glued to the smiths pointer boss and then balanced it and lastly painted it the correct colour. I have also made the brackets and fitted a pair of electric fans to the radiator and also fitted the stainless steel exhaust tips. After doing these jobs I thought it was about time to work on the rear axle, as all I wanted to do was fit new bearings and change the crown wheel and pinion to a better ratio I did not think that this was going to be a hard job, WRONG, on taking the third member apart I had a nice surprise waiting for me. That's right a broken rear pinion support :@ . So that led to me spending more than I wanted to on this little lot. I decided to go for: Strange engineering nodular iron pro case Strange engineering alloy Daytona bearing support Strange engineering 1350 steel yoke Timken bearings Motive gear 3.75:1 crown wheel and pinion Eton truetrac LSD and a spicer u-joint to connect my existing propshaft to the new yoke. The only agro I had is that as I did not have a inch pound wrench for setting the preload so I needed to buy one, and I did buy one, and waited two weeks to get to me and then it went missing in the post ( courier said he delivered it at 5 in the morning ). I then had to get onto the supplier to get a refund, I managed to get one locally in the end. A bit of a fiddle getting the mesh on the gears right but I am happy with what I ended up with. With this done I could button the axle up. And fit it back in its home. Another job I have done is to fit a gearbox oil cooler. The next job I have got to do is sort the leak in the trunk out ( I have got to find where the leak is coming from ).
  6. I had a similar misalignment with my headers on these heads. To fix this I made a template up using the port on the head as a guide ( a piece of cardboard ) then I modified the flange area on my old headers to match, as they were an old set of Blackjack 2v headers they did not require much work ( the ports were very closely aligned and only required a little welding and grinding to enlarge them to match ).
  7. The cam I chose in the end was a Lunati 411A1 cam ( solid lifter ), this cam opens its exhaust valve at 77BBDC ( 60 @ .050 ) against the Lunati 62503 cam 72BBDC ( 50.5 @ .050 ), that means that 411A1 cam snaps the valve open earlier but also opens it a lot earlier at @ .050 lift aiding flow the downside to this cam is it has a steep ramp rate so it means it will need EDM lifters and will wear out a bit quicker than normal. 411A1 Solid Lifter specs RPM 2500-6500 Lobe sep 112 108 Center line 4 Degree's Advanced Lift at valve : Inlet .558 Exhaust .580 Valve lash : Inlet .018 Exhaust .020 Ex opens 77 BBDC ( 60 @ .050 ) Ex closes 25 ATDC ( 8 @ .050 ) In opens 28 BTDC ( 11 @ .050 ) In closes 64 ABDC ( 47 @ .050 ) Duration Inlet 272 ( 238 @ .050 ) Duration Exhaust 282 ( 248 @ .050 ) Overlap 53 ( 19 @ .050 ) 34 degree intensity on both
  8. This thread is of interest to myself as I have got the same heads and inlet, one thing I do remember reading when I was trying to decide on a cam was that if the exhaust valve was not opened early enough ( around 80 to 84 BBDC ) it can cause the top end torque to drop off like a brick at higher RPM's ( https://pantera.infopop.cc/topic/sticky-3-351c-basics-and-performance-tuning ). Being that your cam opens fairly late ( 72 BBDC on a lunati 62503 ) it could be a contributing factor, I can imagine having a larger capacity would also make this a little worse ( more gasses to get out ). As for the heads I found that they needed a little work in the chambers, they needed a bit of work around the valves as the valve area is a little shrouded, the chambers needed CC'ing and pointy bits needed removing and also a lot of casting flash needed removing in the ports ( most of this work is not needed on the CnC'd heads ). And lastly I have read that the inlet is not that good with a carb as with it being a low rise open plenum it can suffer from fuel drop out due to turbulence and poor port velocity but this mainly happens at low RPM ( to get around this myself I am going sequential EFI with a drilled manifold ).
  9. Well I phoned one of the firms in question ( this place had been recommend by a member of an owners club I belong to ) and had a very good talk with the person who I spoke to, he gave me a price on some 31 spline shafts ( £350 + VAT ), bearings ( £80 + VAT ), retainers ( £20 + VAT ) and studs ( £22 + VAT ) which was not too bad but he recommended that I stay with my existing 28 spline shafts as I am staying on street tyre's and he did not think that I would break them. I also got a quote on a complete third member built with a Strange case, Eaton Truetrac, Daytona pinion support, Timken bearings and a ratio of my choice ( £1425 +VAT ) which was not a too bad a this price as this works out about the same as getting a complete third member of the same spec from one of the major company's ( Summit, Jegs ) but with much cheaper shipping ( about £25 against £140-£220 from the USA ) plus if I have any warranty issues I only have to deal with a UK supplier. So it looks like I might go for this supplier instead of buying the parts separately and putting it together myself as I would only be saving about £150, all I have to do now is finalise which ratio to go for. Thanks for the offer of the case but after shipping costs to the UK I might as well go for a new case.
  10. I have used Summit Racing and Jegs before ( for my engine build ) and I have been getting most of my comparison prices from them, with both of them it works out cheaper to buy the parts separately from them and build the diff myself than try and get the exact spec of complete third member complete from them, also the shipping is not to bad from either of them, plus they sort out the import duty and VAT for me. As to availability of parts over here I have only three places which I have found so far that might do the parts I need but they are all fabricators for racing and I do not know what there pricing is like as there web sites say to contact for pricing ( never a good sign ), but I will contacting them over the next couple of days to find out the prices and availability of parts anyway.
  11. I forgot to mention my tyre size which is at the moment 255/60 15 cooper's ( 27 inch tall ) and I my be changing it for a 275/60 15 BFG not long after the car goes back on the road. I did look at quick performance and had considered them but I know someone over here ( UK ) that got a quote on shipping and they were very expensive to ship out of the USA, but I will keep them in mind as they have the cheapest complete third members that I have come across that aren't unnamed.
  12. Hi, I need a spot of advice on my axle components. I have been stripping my 9 Inch axle down to get it ready for a change of ratio and new bearings and have come across a couple of problems. The first problem up, is when I removed the third member and inspected it I found that it had a crack running through the rear pinion support rendering the third member scrap for my use, so I have decided to build an totally new third member assembly to my specs. I now need to choose a third member, there a several I am looking at: Summit racings nodular iron case Strange engineering's S nodular iron case Strange engineering's Pro series case ( preferred choice ) Are there any other cases I should be looking at. Next problem is too do with the axle shafts, being that my shafts are 28 spline at the moment and the engine will be producing around 380 too 450 BHP ( flywheel ) with possibly about 400 foot pounds of torque, what's the opinion on my shafts living with these power levels, would it be worth upgrading to 31 spline ( which I am trying to avoid due to the cost ) plus I have a small bearing axle so I will need the special bearings for this conversion and I have been told that these special bearings are no good for street use because they are too small and burn up ( have been told that I need to have large bearing hubs fitted to my axle which also means new back plates and drum assembly's ), I need people's opinion if this is true or not. I will fitting a Daytona pinion bearing conversion ( probably a Strange iron one ) and a corresponding yoke, I will also be using Timken bearings where possible. I am looking at an Eaton Truetrac LSD or should I be looking at a plate type LSD. Lastly I will also be getting a new crown wheel and pinion, I was looking at a ratio of 3.70:1 do you think this is ok or should I look at any other ratios as the car will mainly be used for shows and will not see hardly any motorways ( I will also be fitting an 4r70w at a later date ). Also any crown wheel and pinion makes recommended and any I should avoid. A few specs on the engine and gearbox: 351c, 3v alloy heads, solid lifter Lunati 411A1 cam, other internal mods to match the cam, sequential injection and spark, headers, 2.5 inch bore exhaust system. FMX gearbox with a B&M shift kit fitted and will be getting a 2800 stall converter. Any help and advice is greatly appreciated.
  13. Well time for a small update, I have been slowly been getting the parts together so I can assemble the engine and I now have all the parts need to start assembly. First up a photo of the parts got so far to build the engine. P1010205a by karl stroud, on Flickr Now with the new cam bearings installed. P1010206a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010207a by karl stroud, on Flickr Now with the cam installed with timing gear and timed. P1010208a by karl stroud, on Flickr Next up the pistons and rods installed. P1010221a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010222a by karl stroud, on Flickr Next up is the heads being installed. P1010224a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010225a by karl stroud, on Flickr And last of all a couple with the headers and inlet temp installed. P1010226a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010227a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010228a by karl stroud, on Flickr There are a few more jobs to be done to the engine, such as install the new correct length pushrods, install the new oil pump, install the rockers when the pushrods are fitted ( this lot can only be done when the part arrive ) and then I have got to get the injectors and drill the fuel rail and inlet and fit them ( and fit all the electronic sensors for the EFI conversion ). So near yet so far, but at least the end is in sight as far as the engine is concerned. The final build on the engine stands as: 351c bored +.060 Crank reground and worked on Speed pro hyper pistons Eagle con rods Lunati 411A1 Cam (30320511) Crower EDM metered flat tappet mech lifters Cloyes 9 way adjustable roller timing set Trick flow pushrods Comp cams guide plates Pioneer harmonic damper ( SFI rated ) Flowkooler waterpump Flowkooler high flow thermostat ( correct type ) Four seasons water neck Speedmaster alloy cylinder heads ( been heavily worked on ) Lunati valve springs ( to be fitted when the cam is bed in ) matching caps for above springs Speedmaster inlet to match heads ( to be modified for injectors ) Speedmaster four barrel throttle body ( not that bad just needs a little finishing ) Comp cams lash caps ( the speedmaster stainless steel valves do not have a hardened tip ) Scorpion 1.73 roller rockers Ford motorsport alloy rocker boxes ARP bolts used in all the important places ARP hardened oil pump drive shaft Sealed power standard oil pump Oil restrictors fitted to cam bearing feeds All bearings are Clevite ( the crank uses HD bearings ) Modified Blackjack headers The engines compression ratio worked out at about 9.8 to 1 I do not have a clue as to what power the engine is going to produce but I will be happy if it makes about 400hp at the crank. After I have got this finished it will be installed in the car and then I can get to finishing the interior and doing the one or two small external jobs which need to be done ( such as changing the torque converter to match the cam and changing the rear axle ratio to something a little better ).
  14. Got the same sizes on mine. P1010114a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010115a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010117a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010120a by karl stroud, on Flickr
  15. Hi, I had the same on both sides on my mach1. What I ended up doing was to remove the upper cowl area above the air vents by drilling out the welds with a spot weld drill and carefully cutting the upper cowl in a couple of area's so I did not have to remove the entire upper cowl. DSC00364a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00368a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00372a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00373a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00383a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00382a by karl stroud, on Flickr After I replaced all the rotten metal and rebuilt the vent I reshaped the area slightly to force any water to run away from the vent and toward the main drain, another thing I did was to totally seal around the vent where it attaches to the firewall with a high quality seam sealer to totally stop any future water ingress ( I also sealed any area in the cowl where water could get between any joins ). The next thing what I thought was worth doing was to make the main drain hole a bit larger so it could not be blocked by leaves.
  16. Well after taking all the advice given here and from other sources I have narrowed my cam choice down to two cams, if I go for a solid flat tappet the cam will be the lunati 411A1 cam but if I go for a hydraulic flat tappet it will be a crower 15966. Both cams have very similar valve timing with the lunati cam having a bit more duration @ .050 and a bit more lift, as the car will not be doing much street driving ( it will mainly be a show car ) having to adjust the rockers every now and again for a solid cam is not a problem. The rear axle ratio will also probably be a 3.73:1 ratio ( which will suit the cams better ) and the tyre's are 27" tall ( 255/60/15 ) and I will see about getting a converter to suit the cam choice ( 2500 - 2800 stall ). After cleaning up my cylinder heads and cc'ing them I ended up with a cylinder head volume of about 67 - 68 cc's, with this measurement and others of the bore I will be ending up with a compression ratio of 9.60:1 to 9.70:1 depending on the head gasket choice, this means with either of the cams I end up with a dynamic compression ratio of about 7.80:1. the other bits I have still to decide on, are the harmonic damper ( pioneer or powerbond ) is it worth paying out the extra for the steel damper over the nodular iron for street use, and the water pump ( mildon 16235 or flowkooler 1648 ). Again any advice on these final few choices will be appreciated.
  17. Well one of the first cams I looked at 2 years ago when I was first planning the engine build was the Lunati 411A1 cam ( and is still my preferred mech cam ) so it is still in the running until I make my final choice, as for the rear gearing I am not set on a 3.50 ratio as I will be changing the auto box for a overdrive auto box at a later date and I am quite willing to go to 6500 RPM but the engine will not be going there all that often. Also at the moment the engines compression ratio is at 9.80 to 1 with a standard gasket, I was going to raise it by using a thinner gasket but with the correct cam I may not bother, I will look at a more intense cam choices as I will be using EDM lifters to help valve train life. The heads I am using are the cheap and nasty Streetmaster 3V heads ( I know, I know ) I have done some work to them and made them a bit more usable, the only reason I got them was they were silly cheap for the pair and my original 2V open chamber heads needed so much work on them I was getting prices of about £2000+ to get them in any usable condition and I was getting quoted silly expensive prices for aftermarket heads made by known makes ( £1800 each for Edelbrock heads ) so I thought I would give these a chance. As for usage I will mainly be using the car for shows, some street driving and the occasional run on a strip, I will using power brakes but the vacuum does not bother me as I will be fitting a electric vacuum pump to see to its needs, as to how the engine idles it does not bother me , if its smooth fine, if its lumpy that's also fine, the main things I want from it is to be drivable on the street and I would like for the BHP and Torque to be as high as possible but still be usable without revving the engine to bits all the time. Thanks for the advice and please keep it coming. Karl.
  18. Hi don Thanks for the advice, I think it was the pioneer damper that I was looking at before so I think that settles that choice, I think I will be looking at the scorpion rockers and will be looking at the timing sets and lifters you recommended. I was also leaning in choice toward the crower 15243 284HDP cam before I posted so it looks like I may well choose that one but first I will check the dynamic compression with a calculator before making a final choice. I was lucky with the re-bore as after machining the block was sonic checked again and the thinnest point which could be found was about 3.5mm on a non thrust wall, the guy who did my machining said that this was one of the best blocks he had seen in a while and had almost zero core shift. The reason the block had to be machined so much was it had over 25 thou of wear on a thrust face on a couple of cylinders. I will be using LS2 truck packs for the spark ( fully sequential ) and have modified an old Accel distributor into a cam position sensor ( I think a photo of this is in my build ) this combined with a crank position sensor with a missing tooth toothed wheel will control the spark and injection with the Megasquirt ECU, as for the intake I am planning to use some form of individual throttle body on each cylinder, if I cannot buy a complete setup for a reasonable price I will end up making my own including a manifold. Karl.
  19. Hi, I hope that I am posting this in the right area. I am finally getting around to finishing my build of my Cleveland engine and need a bit of advice on choosing a final few components. The spec of the drive line: FMX autobox with B&M shift kit fitted ( will be changed to a 4R70W box at later date ) Torque converter to be bought to match cam choice Diff ratio to be changed to possibly 3.50:1 Limited slip diff to be fitted and uprated shafts 255/60/15 tyres fitted ( might be changed to 275/50/15 or 295/50/15 at later date ) The engine spec so far: 1971 Cleveland block bored +60 thou ( has been sonic checked ) Sealed power pistons to suit block bore Moly rings to suit pistons ( will checked for gap ) Eagle H-Beam rods Clevite HD bearings Reground crank ( will be dynamically balanced when a new damper has been sourced ) ARP studding kit ( heads and mains ) Large valve and port alloy heads Stainless steel one piece valves Oil pump blueprinted Tall alloy rocker boxes Still to source: Harmonic damper Water pump ( alloy ) Timing chain and gears Camshaft and lifters Pushrods ( when distance is known ) Roller rockers Valve spring assembly ( will be bought to match the cam ) High capacity sump ( will make myself ) Inlet assembly ( will possibly be ITB's ) 4V Headers ( will connect to 2.5" twin system ) Camshaft bearings Other info: engine compression about 10.0:1 sequential spark and injection on MS3X ECU Vacuum pump ( electric ) for power brakes The car is mainly going to be a street car with the occasional trip to the strip So basically I need advice on these items: Harmonic damper, what makes should I look for being this is a street engine with only occasional strip use. Roller rockers, I was looking at getting either comp cams, lunati or scorpion, or are there any others I should look for. Timing assembly, any makes I should avoid or should get ( looking for multiple keyway or adjustable ). Lifters ( EDM type ) any makes to avoid or get Camshaft, this is what I need the help with the most, I will be remaining flat tappet but I am not certain if I will be using solid or hydraulic. These are some cams I have looked at, I need any opinions if any of them will be suitable. Solid flat tappet: Lunati 411A1LUN Lobe sep. 112 Overlap. 53 RPM. 2500-6500 Intensity. 34 Clearance. .018/.020 Lift in. 558 Lift ex. 580 Dur in. 272 @.050 238 Dur ex. 282 @.050 248 Comp cams 32-238-4 282S Lobe sep. 110 Overlap. 62 RPM. 2000-6000 Intensity. 46 Clearance. .022/.022 Lift in. 570 Lift ex. 570 Dur in. 282 @.050 236 Dur ex. 282 @.050 236 Crower ( lift could with or without lash clearance, crower do not state ) 15388 282FDP Lobe sep. 112 Overlap. 61 RPM. 2200-6000 Intensity. 44/46 Clearance. .022/.024 Lift in. 522 Lift ex. 533 Dur in. 282 @.050 238 Dur ex. 288 @.050 242 15389 292FDP Lobe sep. 112 Overlap. 71 RPM. 2500-6250 Intensity. 46/48 Clearance. .022/.024 Lift in. 540 Lift ex. 547 Dur in. 292 @.050 246 Dur ex. 298 @.050 250 Hydraulic flat tappet Lunati 62504 Lobe sep. 110 Overlap. 60 RPM. 2200-6200 Intensity. 43 Lift in. 561 Lift ex. 583 Dur in. 276 @.050 233 Dur ex. 284 @.050 241 Comp Cams 32-246-4 XE274H Lobe sep. 110 Overlap. 60 RPM. 2000-6000 Intensity. 44/50 Lift in. 562 Lift ex. 565 Dur in. 274 @.050 230 Dur ex. 286 @.050 236 32-225-4 280H Lobe sep. 110 Overlap. 60 RPM. 2000-6000 Intensity. 50 Lift in. 530 Lift ex. 530 Dur in. 280 @.050 230 Dur ex. 280 @.050 230 Crower 15243 284HDP Lobe sep. 112 Overlap. 63 RPM. 2000-6000 Intensity. 56/58 Lift in. 555 Lift ex. 573 Dur in. 284 @.050 228 Dur ex. 290 @.050 232 15244 297HDP Lobe sep. 112 Overlap. 74 RPM. 2000-6500 Intensity. 61/68 Lift in. 578 Lift ex. 578 Dur in. 297 @.050 236 Dur ex. 308 @.050 240 15242 280HDP Lobe sep. 112 Overlap. 59 RPM. 1800-6000 Intensity. 60 Lift in. 526 Lift ex. 540 Dur in. 280 @.050 220 Dur ex. 286 @.050 226 15966 278H Lobe sep. 112 Overlap. 57 RPM. 2200-6200 Intensity. 58 Lift in. 528 Lift ex. 540 Dur in. 278 @.050 220 Dur ex. 284 @.050 226 If anyone can recommend any cams I could look at that would be great, the only limitations I have got on cam choice are: Lift at valve cannot be more than .580 Lobe separation preferably more than 110, 112 or more would be great The power in the 2000-6500 RPM bracket ( preferably below 6000 RPM ) Overlap preferably around 65 or under but will look at around 70 Intensity 45-60 ( for better valve train life ) Thanks in advance for any help.
  20. When I replaced my trunk floor I ended up having to use a mixture or air powered cutting saws and a die grinder to get the last bits out ( a right fiddle ). Also I do not know if you are going to do this but it is worth putting in the factory exhaust mount position on the drivers side inside the rail so you can use the factory rear exhaust mounts, and it is also worth putting some fixings in the factory rear sway bar position so you can use that if you wanted to as well. As for the floor, I just checked my photo's and I had used the full size floor panel so I cannot help you there.
  21. With your damaged panel if you cannot get a replacement you could try and do what I did with my damaged panels. First get a plastic welder ( basically a glorified gas soldering iron ) melt In some new plastic to back of the damaged part to give some shape and strength back, then sand off any loose plastic, then fill the remaining missing area's with some flexible body filler ( I used the stuff used to fix plastic bumpers ), sand this smooth then spray it with some texture paint of the correct colour. This will not be a perfect match but it will look better than it did.
  22. The baffle is still there ( thanks for the pointer anyway ) and will be getting the correct thermostat for the engine, I will be getting a pair of cometic head gaskets to get the correct compression ratio, and will have to triple check to make sure that they are fitted correctly. That spitfire of mine ( which I have owned for 25 years ) currently has a multi-point sequential injected 3.5 litre v8 in it with a 5 speed box behind it and Granada diff and custom rear suspension fitted, so it is no slouch :D . DSC00386a by karl stroud, on Flickr
  23. On the repair on the dash crash pad and the doors, First I opened up the cracked or damaged area's with a die grinder, then I then melted some polyurethane tubing ( this was the closest I could get in likeness to the original sponge ) into the ground out sponge area's with a gas powered plastic soldering gun. This was then sanded down to just below the surface level then filled with flexible filler ( the type used on bumper repair's ) this was then sanded flat then skimmed with a thin layer of Stopper ( a self quick setting soft filler ) then sanded again. In doing all this sanding I lost the grain on the panels so to get some type of grain back I sprayed the panels with plastic primer then primer then a final coat of texture paint ( satin black ). I also repaired the rear plastic trims using a similar technique as they had damage and had lost all of there colour and texture due to sun bleaching. For the steering wheel to repair this I opened the cracks up with a small grinder then filled the cracks with a dry 2 part epoxy resin, this was then left to dry then sanded, this was then filled with stopper, sanded again then primed with plastic primer then a grey primer which was sanded smooth then sprayed with a gloss black paint, also repaired at this time was the horn push which did not work due to damage and corrosion. The other thing I did to my door cards was to bond on some thin aluminium sheet with holes cut in them ( for the fixings ) as the cards had some damage and were also warped due to dampness, this will give them a bit more strength and rigidity. P.S. most of the shots in the living room were done when my parents were away visiting my sister. And thanks for the condolences. Karl.
  24. Right to begin with a little history of the car. I have hade this car for about 16 years and until about 9 years ago it was used regularly, up until on the way home from a owners club show it decided to eat its gearbox, as the car was a bit of an oil burner anyway I decided to take the engine and gearbox out to do a bit of restoration work to them, but with the engine and gearbox out I decided to start prodding around the bodywork ( fatal mistake ) next thing I know was that the rear light cluster fell out. with this in mind I decided to pull the car apart and do a total rebuild. A photo of the car as I bought it. 002a by karl stroud, on Flickr The first thing tackled was the gearbox rebuild, this also involved in fitting a shift kit. DSC00100a by karl stroud, on Flickr The next job tackled was the replacement of the back end.. DSC00107a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00118a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00119a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00352a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00353a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00354a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00357a by karl stroud, on Flickr Also done at this time but not photo's were taken, was both rear torque boxes repaired and the front passenger torque box also repaired, and also the aftermarket sunroof was removed and the roof repaired and re strengthened, I also fitted chassis connection bars. Next up was the scuttle and heater intake repair. DSC00364a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00368a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00373a by karl stroud, on Flickr Next up it was the turn of the chassis rails, shock towers and inner fenders. DSC00375a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00377a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00382a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00383a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00384a by karl stroud, on Flickr After this was done the main shell was painted with primer then after this was flatted off then painted with topcoat. P1000875a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000876a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000880a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000881a by karl stroud, on Flickr The doors, front fenders, hood and trunk lid were all stripped and filled where needed then primed and painted.. DSC00398a by karl stroud, on Flickr DSC00406a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000900a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000924a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000964a by karl stroud, on Flickr The fuel tank was reconditioned and modified for fuel injection and fitted to the car as well as new fuel lines being run. P1000902a by karl stroud, on Flickr The next job to be tackled was the suspension, first was the rear this just required fitting new springs shocks and poly bushes, and at this time custom made traction bars were fitted, a rear sway may be fitted at a later date as I fitted the correct fixings in the chassis for a factory sway bar, then it was the fronts turn this involved re-enforcing the front upper and lower arms and making custom stay bars as well as fitting new springs, shocks and poly bushes and fitting an uprated sway bar. P1000946a by karl stroud, on Flickr The front upper and lower arms were boxed in and seam welded. P1000959a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000960a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000962a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000970a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000972a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000995a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000996a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000999a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010001a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010009a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010010a by karl stroud, on Flickr I also started sound proofing the inside. P1000982a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000983a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000988a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000991a by karl stroud, on Flickr The rear lights where also reconditioned. P1010003a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010004a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010005a by karl stroud, on Flickr Also done was the repair and repainting of the steering assembly. P1010019a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010020a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010024a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010026a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010031a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010032a by karl stroud, on Flickr Next was the repair of a very broken front grill. P1010035a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010038a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010039a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010090a by karl stroud, on Flickr I also started to fit the roof sound proofing and head lining. P1010013a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010014a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010047a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010048a by karl stroud, on Flickr At this time I decided to get the exhaust system out of the way and made some adjustable brackets for it as the engine is not in yet I could not finalise the position. P1010059a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010060a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010061a by karl stroud, on Flickr The trunk has also been soundproofed. P1010076a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010078a by karl stroud, on Flickr Then the swirl pot and fuel pumps have been fitted. P1010093a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010095a by karl stroud, on Flickr And the custom made brake pipes. P1010096a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010097a by karl stroud, on Flickr The next job done was to media blast the wheels and repaint them.. P1010102a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010105a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010107a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010108a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010110a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010114a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010116a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010120a by karl stroud, on Flickr The next job I decided to do was to repair and modify the front side/indicator light assembly so it will be legal for use in the uk. P1010133a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010136a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000463a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000464a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000466a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000468a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000469a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000470a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000473a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000476a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000478a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000482a by karl stroud, on Flickr Now it was the turn of the interior trim starting with the cracked and damaged dash top. P1010150a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010152a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010153a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010154a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010155a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010158a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000540a by karl stroud, on Flickr Then the door cards. P1010161a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010167a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010168a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000530a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000532a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000533a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000539a by karl stroud, on Flickr Also at the same time a lot of other interior trim parts where also repaired and repainted. P1000535a by karl stroud, on Flickr After doing all of this work to the main part of the car I thought it was time to start doing some work on the engine. With this in mind I started collecting parts for its rebuild first up was a cheap pair of alloy heads for me to experiment on ( the original 2v heads require to much work ). P1010165a by karl stroud, on Flickr Next up was the rebore, this was a complete nightmare as one of the cylinders had over 25 thou of wear on the thrust face so the block required a rebore of 60 thou, the engine was sonic measured and was found to have plenty of meat on the walls. P1000506a by karl stroud, on Flickr New pistons and rods where then ordered.. P1000562a by karl stroud, on Flickr The block was then smoothed inside and out and then painted. P1000542a by karl stroud, on Flickr Next I started collecting parts again and I also modified an old accel distributor to act as a cam position sensor for the EFI I will be fitting at a later date. P1000546a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000547a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000548a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000550a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000551a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1000543a by karl stroud, on Flickr This where I have got to as of may this year, almost no work has been done since then as my mum passed away in may and I have been helping my dad out, in fact I have only started doing a few bits to the car in the past week or so, and that was only sorting a couple of paint reactions and a couple of small cracks which had developed on the roof. I will update this thread when I get around to doing some more work to the car, plus I have got to get some advice on the final spec of the engine. Karl.
  25. Thanks for the welcome everyone. On to the car, the car had a aftermarket sunroof fitted I believe during the 80's the vinyl roof was also fitted at this time this was probably due to the mess the people who fitted the sunroof made of the roof of the car. The sunroof was a lorry sunroof and when it was fitted, the roof was butchered to make it fit jagged edges and roof re-enforcements cut though, so the roof had lots of ripples and no strength ( this has now been sorted ), I might fit a vinyl roof back on to the car at a later date but his will depend on whether the ripples or cracks come back. On the plans for the car I will be fitting the correct factory spoiler to it as well as rear screen louvers and the correct decals will be re-fitted, the car has had chassis bars fitted also it has had custom made traction bars fitted as well as uprated suspension and polybushes, on the front the stay bars have been replaced with one's of my own design ( rose joints ), the gearbox has been rebuilt with a shift kit ( FMX ) and I am currently sorting out the build of the engine ( Cleveland ).
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