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Doc302

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About Doc302

  • Birthday 11/17/1969

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 Mach1 Q code 351 replaced with 1968 “429 thunder jet”


    [url=https://ibb.co/dQW99z][img]https://preview.ibb.co/bEMnwe/Mach_1_front_side_up.jpg[/img][/url]

Location

  • Location
    Florida
  • Region
    Southeast

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Male

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  1. It is out right now - working on A/C but these pics should help my earlier post shows a pic of it in the car
  2. mine is not a flip it is a sony xav-100 the body of the stereo is on top and the screen below. it hangs down over the factory A/C controls some but does not interfere with their operation. it is not very feature rich but allows front and back camera and apple car-play which gives me navigation, music and more, just no CD/CVD ( and alas no 8 track ). obviously does not look very stock. -- I almost went with a stock look and the real stereo in the glove box or trunk, but As I am sure you know view out the rear is not great and backup camera is very nice to have. I found that a Double DIN did not fit as well, because the stock center trim piece angles up a bit so the stereo sits angled down and wants to hit on A/C controls behind the dash. the single with double size screen with the head unit on the bottom also had similar issues. Again It can be done this was just more plug and play the camera inputs and amp outputs ( red wht yellow below) stick out and are harder to fit the closer they are to the floor. the fact that the face angles up is actually nice in that there is less glare in the sun and it is a nice angle to look down at. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-1t85qyTjZq6/p_158XAV100/Sony-XAV-AX100.html
  3. Double Din Does not fit well ( can be done ) but a single din with double DIN screen works great. Added front and back cameras and Apple car play for navigation. not a difficult install. I have it out of the dash right now while I finish up the A/C. this is the best picture I have of it in my office computer. Ill see if I have any better shots at home.
  4. Thank you for the suggestions. I never thought much about the secondaries. The float levels are good. I have clear sight glass so easy to keep eye on them Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Thanks I will check it out. I have not inspected it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Thank you for the advice. I will try changing the air bleeds- much easier then changing main jets. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Yea- inches of Hg— I deal In mmHg all day. I actually have a multimeter with a tachometer- never thought to use it. This weekend I'll see if I can get true idle rpm and see if I can get the multimeter set up so I can read it while the car is being driven. Thanks again- the speedometer gear calculator is great also- one of the next projects [emoji51]. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Can't hurt to check the distributor cap. Thanks for the tip Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I did some reading on cam surge and although the description of the problems seems to match what I have going on to an extent, the problems seems to be focused around aftermarket cam ( which I guess PO could have mislead me about ) and at low RPM. This occurs at 25-45mph and although I do not have a tach with the 4:11s and stock C6 I am well over 2500 and probably in the 3500RPM range. can it happen this high RPM ? ::shrug::
  10. I’ve always left air bleeds alone due to holley’s warning about catastrophic detonation- but I guess as long as I go smaller / richer can’t hurt. I’ll see if I can get some and try it. Shouldn’t my plugs read lean if this is the case? I’ve toyed with the idea of adding a o2 sensor to monitor A/F mix but seems a bit extreme Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Ok, thanks for the suggestion [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I had been having some drivability issues / stalling hard start no start. I believe mostly due to vapor lock. Added 1/4 inch phenolic carb spacer and converted to Holley in tank fuel pump with return. Regulated fuel pressure 7 psi. Replaced starter with MSD. All the big problems resolved. However, now have great idle,almost too much throttle response off the line ( time to look at rear suspension:) and good response passing. Great acceleration, good cruise under 25 mph and over 40-45 mph. But surges at in town cruise speeds. Q code 73 Mach1 - po states that oo replaced the 351 with 429 from a 69 Thunderbird 4V. And casting numbers confirm this is correct block and heads for a 429 "thunderjet". Engine believed to have had heads rebuilt, ported and polished. Intake is Edelbrock performer 429 which also has had some port and polish done. Bottom end and cam are stock 11:1 CR). Carb is prosystems modified Holley 4150 double pumper ( I do not know CFM - but most likely either 750 or 850 ). No choke. Bleeds about 1.5 turns out. 18 mmhg vacuum at idle (bounces a lot) idle screw all the way out. Idles well about 600-650 does not stall hot or cold. If I adjust idle to about 1k ( best guess from sound tach not fixed yet) smooths out and vacuum more steady- does not fix my problem so I put it back. Dizzy is magnetic pickup hooked to MSD digital 6Al and blaster coil. No vacuum advance. Timing is 6* initial plus 30* mechanical. ( this is per the correct timing per ford service manual. ) because there were some odd things going on with ford BB engines in the early 70 for emissions and it is possible I do not have straight up like I should have with an early 429. I have tried 4*-14* initial in two degree steps. And this made no difference in my 25-45 surge issue. I replaced all of the vacuum hoses and sprayed starting fluid around the base of carb intake and vacuum ports. No leaks found. All the smog stuff is gone except PCV valve. C6 4:11 rear gears. pulled plugs and do not look to lean or rich. Any ideas? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. 73 Mach 1 Q code Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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