Doc302

https://missourimustang.com/1969-73-heater-cable-w-factory-air/

It is out right now - working on A/C but these pics should help my earlier post shows a pic of it in the car

mine is not a flip it is a sony xav-100 the body of the stereo is on top and the screen below. it hangs down over the factory A/C controls some but does not interfere with their operation. it is not very feature rich but allows front and back camera and apple car-play which gives me navigation, music and more, just no CD/CVD ( and alas no 8 track ). obviously does not look very stock. -- I almost went with a stock look and the real stereo in the glove box or trunk, but As I am sure you know view out the rear is not great and backup camera is very nice to have. I found that a Double DIN

Double Din Does not fit well ( can be done ) but a single din with double DIN screen works great. Added front and back cameras and Apple car play for navigation. not a difficult install. I have it out of the dash right now while I finish up the A/C. this is the best picture I have of it in my office computer. Ill see if I have any better shots at home.

Thank you for the suggestions. I never thought much about the secondaries. The float levels are good. I have clear sight glass so easy to keep eye on them Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks I will check it out. I have not inspected it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you for the advice. I will try changing the air bleeds- much easier then changing main jets. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea- inches of Hg— I deal In mmHg all day. I actually have a multimeter with a tachometer- never thought to use it. This weekend I'll see if I can get true idle rpm and see if I can get the multimeter set up so I can read it while the car is being driven. Thanks again- the speedometer gear calculator is great also- one of the next projects [emoji51]. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can't hurt to check the distributor cap. Thanks for the tip Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did some reading on cam surge and although the description of the problems seems to match what I have going on to an extent, the problems seems to be focused around aftermarket cam ( which I guess PO could have mislead me about ) and at low RPM. This occurs at 25-45mph and although I do not have a tach with the 4:11s and stock C6 I am well over 2500 and probably in the 3500RPM range. can it happen this high RPM ? ::shrug::

I’ve always left air bleeds alone due to holley’s warning about catastrophic detonation- but I guess as long as I go smaller / richer can’t hurt. I’ll see if I can get some and try it. Shouldn’t my plugs read lean if this is the case? I’ve toyed with the idea of adding a o2 sensor to monitor A/F mix but seems a bit extreme Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, thanks for the suggestion [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had been having some drivability issues / stalling hard start no start. I believe mostly due to vapor lock. Added 1/4 inch phenolic carb spacer and converted to Holley in tank fuel pump with return. Regulated fuel pressure 7 psi. Replaced starter with MSD. All the big problems resolved. However, now have great idle,almost too much throttle response off the line ( time to look at rear suspension:) and good response passing. Great acceleration, good cruise under 25 mph and over 40-45 mph. But surges at in town cruise speeds. Q code 73 Mach1 - po states that oo replaced the 351 with 429 from

73 Mach 1 Q code Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk