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Everything posted by Doc302

  1. It is out right now - working on A/C but these pics should help my earlier post shows a pic of it in the car
  2. mine is not a flip it is a sony xav-100 the body of the stereo is on top and the screen below. it hangs down over the factory A/C controls some but does not interfere with their operation. it is not very feature rich but allows front and back camera and apple car-play which gives me navigation, music and more, just no CD/CVD ( and alas no 8 track ). obviously does not look very stock. -- I almost went with a stock look and the real stereo in the glove box or trunk, but As I am sure you know view out the rear is not great and backup camera is very nice to have. I found that a Double DIN did not fit as well, because the stock center trim piece angles up a bit so the stereo sits angled down and wants to hit on A/C controls behind the dash. the single with double size screen with the head unit on the bottom also had similar issues. Again It can be done this was just more plug and play the camera inputs and amp outputs ( red wht yellow below) stick out and are harder to fit the closer they are to the floor. the fact that the face angles up is actually nice in that there is less glare in the sun and it is a nice angle to look down at. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-1t85qyTjZq6/p_158XAV100/Sony-XAV-AX100.html
  3. Double Din Does not fit well ( can be done ) but a single din with double DIN screen works great. Added front and back cameras and Apple car play for navigation. not a difficult install. I have it out of the dash right now while I finish up the A/C. this is the best picture I have of it in my office computer. Ill see if I have any better shots at home.
  4. Thank you for the suggestions. I never thought much about the secondaries. The float levels are good. I have clear sight glass so easy to keep eye on them Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Thanks I will check it out. I have not inspected it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Thank you for the advice. I will try changing the air bleeds- much easier then changing main jets. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Yea- inches of Hg— I deal In mmHg all day. I actually have a multimeter with a tachometer- never thought to use it. This weekend I'll see if I can get true idle rpm and see if I can get the multimeter set up so I can read it while the car is being driven. Thanks again- the speedometer gear calculator is great also- one of the next projects [emoji51]. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Can't hurt to check the distributor cap. Thanks for the tip Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I did some reading on cam surge and although the description of the problems seems to match what I have going on to an extent, the problems seems to be focused around aftermarket cam ( which I guess PO could have mislead me about ) and at low RPM. This occurs at 25-45mph and although I do not have a tach with the 4:11s and stock C6 I am well over 2500 and probably in the 3500RPM range. can it happen this high RPM ? ::shrug::
  10. I’ve always left air bleeds alone due to holley’s warning about catastrophic detonation- but I guess as long as I go smaller / richer can’t hurt. I’ll see if I can get some and try it. Shouldn’t my plugs read lean if this is the case? I’ve toyed with the idea of adding a o2 sensor to monitor A/F mix but seems a bit extreme Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Ok, thanks for the suggestion [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I had been having some drivability issues / stalling hard start no start. I believe mostly due to vapor lock. Added 1/4 inch phenolic carb spacer and converted to Holley in tank fuel pump with return. Regulated fuel pressure 7 psi. Replaced starter with MSD. All the big problems resolved. However, now have great idle,almost too much throttle response off the line ( time to look at rear suspension:) and good response passing. Great acceleration, good cruise under 25 mph and over 40-45 mph. But surges at in town cruise speeds. Q code 73 Mach1 - po states that oo replaced the 351 with 429 from a 69 Thunderbird 4V. And casting numbers confirm this is correct block and heads for a 429 "thunderjet". Engine believed to have had heads rebuilt, ported and polished. Intake is Edelbrock performer 429 which also has had some port and polish done. Bottom end and cam are stock 11:1 CR). Carb is prosystems modified Holley 4150 double pumper ( I do not know CFM - but most likely either 750 or 850 ). No choke. Bleeds about 1.5 turns out. 18 mmhg vacuum at idle (bounces a lot) idle screw all the way out. Idles well about 600-650 does not stall hot or cold. If I adjust idle to about 1k ( best guess from sound tach not fixed yet) smooths out and vacuum more steady- does not fix my problem so I put it back. Dizzy is magnetic pickup hooked to MSD digital 6Al and blaster coil. No vacuum advance. Timing is 6* initial plus 30* mechanical. ( this is per the correct timing per ford service manual. ) because there were some odd things going on with ford BB engines in the early 70 for emissions and it is possible I do not have straight up like I should have with an early 429. I have tried 4*-14* initial in two degree steps. And this made no difference in my 25-45 surge issue. I replaced all of the vacuum hoses and sprayed starting fluid around the base of carb intake and vacuum ports. No leaks found. All the smog stuff is gone except PCV valve. C6 4:11 rear gears. pulled plugs and do not look to lean or rich. Any ideas? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. 73 Mach 1 Q code Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. 73 Mach 1 Q code Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Although it is a different animal I had magnaflows on my 2003 cobra and they were more quite then OEM on the highway, but had nice deep tone at idle and with hard acceleration. I had flowmaster 40s on my 73 (429) and also experienced minimal drone at about 2500 -3000 rpm but did not notice it much because I have 4:11s so am above 3k at cruse most of the time. I now have super 10s and although louder then the 40s I have no drone. 40s sounded better at idle when I first moved to 10s but changed from x pipe to h pipe and improved sound at lower rpms. ( I know I probably lost 1-2hp at redline) for me flowmasters have a more authentic muscle car tone then magnaflows. Have you thought about super 44s they are supposed to have less drone also. Drone is due to resonance. This style of muffler uses resonance to enhance exhaust note tones. Some resonance and drone is inevitable. You may get less drone with 10s ( or cherry bombs- the most likely choice in these cars haydays)- but you will get more noise and still not be able to hear radio or have a conversation. Go to muffler shop that sells each listen to each in different cars. Watch out for counterfeit flowmasters not uncommon. Every setup is different and where that drone occurs will depend on more then just the muffler. It sounds like you lean towards quieter, but just in case 10s in most v8 mustangs probably illegal in most cities.
  16. I replaced mine recently and agree with previous suggestion f removing fittings from steering box end and then remove the hoses from the pump on the bench where you have more room
  17. Thank you for the quick reply. I’ll replace the CVR and see how it goes?
  18. I am attempting to get a somewhat functional fuel gauge in my 73 Mach 1. Current problem ( no pun intended): When I turn on ignition , gauge goes from E to about 1/2 tank with tank full as fuel is consumed it moves down some but never to E ( even when I ran out of gas recently. ) except when ignition is off battery disconnected etc never reads E if I short yellow wire to ground needle sweeps to a bit above 1/2 ( should go to full as I understand it ) ground is good - ground wire to tank 0 ohms ground wire to rear bumper or leaf spring ( rust scrapped off ) or neg battery all 0ohms - Ground is always my first suspect but here I think it is ok. sending unit tank full reads 14ohms ( I also have the common full is not full premature fuel shut off so a bit Hi is expected, full is not full) resistance empty 73 Ohms When I check the potential at the yellow wire pulled off the sending unit my ( very high quality ) analog potentiometer sweeps from zero to 5 volts at about two sweeps per second. It is my understanding that the OEM Instrument Panel Voltage Regulator puts out 5 volts and works by rapidly opening a closing a circuit in response to thermal heating on the 12v side of the regulator, but this should happen too fast for meter to see it happening. It seems that I should see a constant 5v or if I can see the opening and closing of the internal circuit of the Instrument Panel Voltage Regulator shouldn't I see a sweep from 0-10 basically a slow always positive a/c source ( RMS voltage=5 much like -120 to + 120 has RMS of 120 ) Should I suspect the Instrument Panel Voltage Regulator or the gauge itself ? if it helps Oil pressure nor temp ever hit H either, but I do not think these parameters have ever been abnormal and have not tested further should the wiring harness be considered suspect ( I know it always is to some extent in these cars ) or is the fact that the yellow wire is hot (even of at wrong potential ) probably enough to looks elsewhere first.
  19. I replaced mine with cheep motor from autozone. The intermittent wipers still work (sort of -work bad joints in transmission arms-not motors fault). I am reasonably certain that the switch or a relay in the switch handles the intermittent operation. not the motor. If you are going for concourse restoration it is a simple motor. You can rebuild it. Probably only needs brushes if rest of system is good. If more severe damage from overheating or excess load , Check your transmission arms so you don’t burn up your new motor.
  20. Finally got time to work on the steering shaft. wonder bar between firewall and flange on steering shaft worked like a charm. Pulled out to right length without having to pull the steering column :thankyouyellow: . Thanks again
  21. I has similar alignment problems while installing steering shaft. turned out the previous owner had removed the steering wheel and used a BFH to beat on the top of the steering shaft while pulling up on the wheel to get the wheel off. after taking apart the complete assembly i discovered that the central shaft had been shortened by 1.5 inches due to his beating on the shaft because the central shaft is a telescoping unit of two pieces one inside the other and the unit will slide inside itself in an front end crash to collapse the center shaft and keep it from becoming a spear in the chest. you will have to get length measurements of an undamaged shaft to see if yours is ok. IF your shaft is too short (a common male problem) you will be able to lengthen the telescoped shaft by clamping one end to wood and hammering the edge of the other telescope to lengthen the shaft .
  22. I am new to this site so if I’m posting in wrong spot I apologize up front. I just had my steering box rebuilt. I rebuilt the rag joint and installed it on the box. When installing the box there is 1/2 inch gap between steering shaft and rag joint. I can get all 3 bolts through the frame and into the box and even attach the rag joint to steering shaft but the rag joint is deformed. Does anyone know if there is a way to adjust how much the steering shaft comes through the firewall? 1973 Mach1 originally Q code 351 ram air ( now 429 Thunderjet). Power steering Spa-t Saginaw 800 box was variable ratio now 12.7:1. I know my rebuilt box is same box I sent in for rebuild due to cosmetic flaw in casting. Rag joint was trashed since I bought the car so I do not know if original was deformed to make it work.
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