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slocody

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    it's a '73, and it's brown. still tryin' to figure out the rest.

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    tc, mn
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    Central

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  1. It probably depends on if/how you end up mounting the plenum. It will probably be fussy to make all the modifications to get them to work together so I just don't know. But cosmetically, no the new hood doesn't need the inserts- they are molded into the hood and would need to be cut away to use the metal ones. Well fiberglass is pretty easy to work with, so you can do just about anything you want. My concern was getting the plenum screwed in securely once I start cutting. If you cut away the part of the plenum that interferes then you lose those mounting points. And if you cut away the offending part of the inner hood, then there's nothing to attach the screws to, since you cant screw through the outer layer of the hood. I'm sure you can figure something out with enough ingenuity. But I stood around and stared at the stupid thing for more time than I care to admit without a good solution.
  2. Hate to break the news now that you finally pulled the trigger, but this won't be as easy as you hope. I bought the VFN hood with the exact same plan....but none of the stuff fits the fiberglass hood, at least without some serious cutting and glass work. The underside looks like it will accommodate the plenum, but it doesn't (at least not the repop plenum I bought). Bear in mind that I have never had a nasa hood, so maybe I was just too dumb to figure it out, but it seemed like it wasn't even close. The plenum is asymmetric on the inside of the "U" part where it screws to the hood (one side is higher than the other). But if you look closely at the image on the VFN site, the U shape in the underside of the hood is totally symmetric all the way around, so no dice. Also the snorkels and the front trim strip are molded into the hood and the scoops are molded shut (inside and out). I'm sure you could get there with some careful cutting, but it isn't going to be as straightforward as just bolting everything up. I was just going to cut open the scoops for cosmetics, but without the plenum attached to route air into the engine, I was worried that air would get between the inside and outside molds and blow them apart at speed. Plus any cutting would require some work to clean up the edges. I will say the hood fits pretty good out of the box, though. It seems a little short front to back(maybe 1/4"), but my fender alignments are such a mess that it may not be the hood's fault. Also the entire perimeter of the hood where the inside/outside pieces meet just looks like 2 chunks of fiberglass glued together. This just may be the norm for glass hoods, but this is my first so I was surprised at how unfinished it looks. But you can't see it with the hood closed, so it usually doesn't bother me....usually. Originality waved bye-bye to my mustang a long time ago, so most of these gripes are minor. I still plan to cut open the scoops and do some glassing to get it looking better and to try to get the plenum working somehow, but that made it a MUCH larger project than I had originally anticipated, which is why it is still exactly the way it came out the box almost 2 years ago. All that being said- it is actually a very well-made and good looking hood....as long as you aren't looking for functional ram air. And it is sooo much lighter than the stock hood that I was able to set on the roof of my convertible last winter when I had the engine out without being worried about it effin up my top. ...plus truck freight! maybe I'm lazy, but I just run it without springs. I hand-made a custom hood prop from a billet wood broom handle- very trick. I use the prop to get the hood open, and then I attach a pair of turnbuckles to the spring points on the hinges to hold the hood up. It actually works great, and I can take out the prop once the turnbuckles are in place. remember- it's always easier to ask forgiveness than permission.
  3. Well I managed to fry some of my NSS wires on my headers. Looking for a replacement NSS, but all the ones designated for a c4 only have the 4-prong plug (link). My car also has an additional 2-prong plug coming from the switch, but the ones I can find that look correct are designated as only being for a c6 (link). Will the c6 switch fit on my c4? They look the same, but that's not always reliable. Looking at a wiring diagram, it seems like the wires in the 2nd plug only serve to energize the seatbelt warnings, so I won't be heartbroken if I can't keep them working, but I would prefer to use the correct part if it's an option. Thanks in advance!
  4. Thanks all. I'll stick it back in there today. I was really looking forward to taking the damn things apart again 😉
  5. Ok I figured it out- it does go on the parking brake link. Just for posterity, I found an exploded diagram in this post. Cody
  6. No those are all accounted for. This is about twice as big. I changed out all my hardware, springs, adjusters, etc. This wasn't in any of those kits. thanks!
  7. OK so this is the first time I have dug into drum brakes. I thought I was finished, but when I was collecting all the old parts, I had these little slotted oval pieces leftover. I am attaching a picture of the piece (left) as well as the auto-adjust lever for scale. What am I looking at? My best guess is that it is a backing plate for the parking brake link bar spring, but it doesn't show up in any of the parts diagrams I can find. Thanks in advance.
  8. https://www.mpproductsstore.com/19711973-mustang-radiat.html
  9. Hmm I have been orienting the words on the bulb in the right direction, but I don't remember any tabs on the bubls themselves...maybe I had them off by a tad. I'll check it out. thanks!
  10. Ok this is a stupid problem to be having, but it's a problem nonetheless....When I replace my headlights, the damn things keep cracking. How tight are the screws in the retention ring supposed to be? I have been bottoming out the tabs on the ring, but it appears this is too much. They always seem to crack right at one of the screws. Thanks! Cody
  11. I have been looking around for the same, but haven't actually pulled the trigger so I can't give any firsthand info. VFN has good customer reviews as far as fitment and quality (on other cars). Let us know what you go with. http://www.vfnfiberglass.com/71-73mustang.htm https://www.usbody.com/ https://www.darkhorseracing.net/71-73_mustang.htm
  12. Hang on- So that 3 way switch has 3 wires: I'm guessing they're 12V+ (in), switched low (out), and switched high (out). If you dont care about being able to switch between high and low, just figure out which wire is the switched output when the switch is set to hi, you can just cut that wire and attach it to the rocker switch in your panel and lose the 3 way switch entirely. If you wanted to be able to run the low setting without having both high and low energized at the same time, and you have a second rocker switch you can use then you should be able to add a relay to switch between hi and low. so basically one switch would turn the lights on/off and the second switch would switch between hi/low. Either way you should be able to ditch that switch. cody
  13. I have the same problem...5 qt only brings my oil level up to the bottom line of the normal range on the dipstick. I tried to get it to read as full one time and it took about 6.5 qt. I figure a little low is better that way too much so I just use the 5 qt level and keep a close eye on it. Hasn't gone boom yet (but I haven't even had it a year yet so who knows).
  14. they look like mine. They were on the car when I bought it, so I don't know model number, but the centers say AR on them. They were on the car when I bought it, so I don't know model number, but the centers say AR on them.
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