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Everything posted by mustangandy

  1. Thanks Canted393. I've emailed them
  2. Hi all. A long shot I'm sure but if I don't ask! I'm after a fan shroud for my 1971 mustang 429 CJ. Its the same as the Torino 429 CJ. Ford part # DOOZ 8146D. A repro is fine and doesn't have to be new at that, so long as the condition is ok. The other thing is that I live in central France 86290 so it would need shipping there. Thanks in advance and here's hoping :-) Cheers Andy
  3. Thing with the Quickjack, which I looked at and rejected, is that I couldn't see that you could line the lift up in line with the body as the front and rear jacking points are not parallel together as the front is more inboard than the rear. As the Quickjack tilts backwards when lifting this means that the lifts on each side of the car are going in opposite directions as the car lifts which I didn't think would work. If you could place them parallel front and back then yes sure they would. I ended up going with a pair of these (so four individual lifts working as 2 pairs front and back) as they lift vertically.
  4. Hi, I'm sorry but not sure I follow your last sentence. What parts (and their location) are you referring to? Many thanks Andy
  5. This is my mach 1 ram air. It's been repainted but it's to the original spec as far as I know comment ajouter une photo sur facebook sans créer d album
  6. I haven't done this before so guess I did stuff it up unfortunately. I presume the valve body will have to come out again then? Cheers Andy
  7. The ram air filter (at least on the 429) is 3 inches tall
  8. The car is level on the ramps. I won't top up, don't want to overfill but as I have to pull the pan again anyway...... The shifter will move from Park to Reverse, just about, but no further than that so no other positions. I presume that I'd need to drop the valve body again to re-install? Thought I'd done it correctly but guess I can't have. I know there's other causes for a stuck tranny but as I only removed the valve body to do the shift kit then I must have done something wrong when refitting it. I am quite sure that I replaced all the springs, balls, valves etc properly (took me long enough checking and rechecking) so won't take it to bits again. Cheers Hemi Andy
  9. Just checked the dipstick (should have done it before) and there's less than one cm showing. I know it should only be about half way up the little holes when cold but sounds a little low? As she's still on ramps I can't run her up hot to check. Would you suggest I top up a little first? Cheers again Andy
  10. Thanks Hemi. Bugger, I followed all the instructions so was confident that I had swapped the springs etc over correctly and reassembled and reinstalled as I should have. But it sounds like there is more to it than just that which was not included in the Transgo notes? Cheers Andy
  11. Help guys! My 71 mustang has a C6 auto transmission. Nine months ago I ramped her to do some maintenance work. I did a transmission flush (7L of ford ATF) and changed the filter. I put in a Transgo 67 1-2 shifter kit too, a new vacuum modulator, a shorter pin and turned the adjustment screw a few turns in. She stayed on the ramps as it was then very wet here and coming up to winter. I was also waiting for a new, correct style exhaust system from the USA which took a while. Fitted now. I then removed the shifter mechanism from the car to insert new bushes into the lever as the action was very sloppy. That's done too. Problem though now is that she will only shift from Park to Reverse but that's it. Won't go into neutral or then drive. She fires up so can't be anything to do with the neutral safety switch I believe? And the shift kit, vac modulator and pin should only make a small change in the revs she changes gear at anyway? The shifter mechanism by itself is very smooth with no free play. Thoughts anyone please! As far as I can remember I cycled the gears when I changed the transmission fluid and she has been dry stored in my barn since. I can't figure out why she won't go through the gears now. Cheers Andy
  12. Get the most powerful battery that will fit. I got a varta 850 cca one (for my 429CJ)
  13. Hi All, Been a while and still working my way through a comprehensive servicing of my 429 CJ RA C6 Mach 1. Life gets in the way, as it does, and it's only recently that I've got a set of lifts to give me semi decent working room under the car. I just cleared some oil and crud from the engine block (a few leaks to take care of) and noticed (of the ones that are easily seen) that 3 of the core plugs are brass. I presume, therefore, that all 6 will be replacements and that it must mean that the engine has been removed at some point in its life? From what I've been able to work out the car covered 45,000 miles in the first 14 years of its life (has spent all its time in the UK as made for export) and then only just over 7,000 miles in the last 35 years (presumably that's why there are a few oil leaks from seals etc drying up though little use?). If the engine was removed then it must have been within those first 45,000 miles I'm guessing? My questions are these. If you pulled an engine to replace the core plugs, and assuming it was otherwise basically sound (I can't confirm that of course) then what other parts would you replace at the time? I'd imagine the water pump for sure, belts etc but what else? I've no paperwork at all regarding this. Secondly, would there be any other indicators, that I might be able to see fairly easily, to show if the engine had been torn down at all or rebuilt? I don't plan on going deep into the engine myself as it doesn't seem to need that but it definitely needs properly tuned up for sure. Cheers Andy
  14. If you don't have to get headers there's always the cast iron interceptor manifolds (not CJ/SCJ ones) as much cheaper and shouldn't really give up much in the way of performance compared with the ford shorties?
  15. Trouble is most full length headers will ground out and be a bugger to fit. Ford shorties may be an option?
  16. Nice looking car, just maintain and drive it :-)
  17. So long as the other tyres are good I'd just replace the bad one, tyres should last at least 10 years.
  18. +1 for Valvoline vr1 racing 10w/30. Failing that (I can't get it) then Amsoil Zrod 10w/30. Both have extra zinc (in form of ZDDP) so no need for additional additives. There are some specific racing oils with more zinc than these two but as they don't have the detergents in them they're not suitable for road cars and apparently ZDDP above about 1500 ppm is supposedly damaging to the engine from what I can gather?
  19. As standard from the factory I'm sure I've read that the rear was slightly lower than the front.
  20. Oh I like a good ribbing as well as the next man, and I'm no blushing snowflake, but an actual contribution from the poster would have been appreciated. It's not necessarily such a good thing anyway that the first communication a stranger has with you is to try to have a laugh at your expense, it's hardly a positive one is it? As I don't know him I wouldn't have responded to him in that way had he asked the forum a question so I don't think it unreasonable to expect the same courtesy back? However its all good ::thumb::
  21. Was it just the 'cosmetics' that the FB poster was concerned with? I presume they know the emissions,hence power, restrictions that came in from '72 onwards.
  22. Ah, you must be the resident arsehole. Sadly every forum has one.
  23. Well I've no intention of burning the diff out lol. A reduced sense of smell may be no bad thing with this stuff! I live opposite a farm. in deepest rural France, and there are times I've gone out the door and nearly puked, and then hidden inside all day, when they are making silage but this smell is something else. Not as nauseous for sure but completely unforgettable and not tolerable haha. Once is more than enough for me ;)
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