Jump to content


VIP Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Kilgon last won the day on September 20

Kilgon had the most liked content!


About Kilgon

  • Birthday 11/15/1950

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    71 Sportsroof Bright Red.


  • Location
    Ross, Ohio
  • Region

Personal Information

  • Sex

Recent Profile Visitors

2,161 profile views

Kilgon's Achievements

  1. Hmmm! A little more math magic. Wife's remodel kitchen with new cabinets = Husband's new Addco sway bars with Moog suspension and Detroit Eaton springs.
  2. Good question. I read various articles on what was the original from the factory to the closet you could come to it. The attach link has info on the paint and the areas and dimensions for everything. Paint Info (50megs.com) I'm for sure some of the others on here will have info also as what to use. I used Sem Hot Rod Black HR010 Kit - it is a 1 Quart kit which is enough to do all the blackout on the car.
  3. To find a slot width take the degree you are wanting and multiply it by .013 and then add .150 to account for the pin width. So a 15L (30 degrees) = 30 x .013 + .150 = .540 width.
  4. He had attached a picture file in one of his above post. Here it is. Still a work in progress but looks like it's taking shape. Looks good for price he paid.
  5. Here are the degrees and slot widths. 8L slot = 16 degrees centrifugal advance = .358” 9L slot = 18 degrees centrifugal advance = .384” 10L slot = 20 degrees centrifugal advance = .410” 11L slot = 22 degrees centrifugal advance = .436” 12L slot = 24 degrees centrifugal advance = .462” 13L slot = 26 degrees centrifugal advance = .488” 14L slot = 28 degrees centrifugal advance = .514”
  6. If you have recurve your distributor and modified the width of the advance slot then one of the best ways to take some of the guest work out of what you have as initial and mechanical advance is to set your timing at the highest "all in" rpm's. Using your timing light have someone slowly accelerated the rpms until you no longer see any advance in the timing and then set your timing at the desire number - usually at 36 degrees for most engine. Depending on the springs you used the "all in" should be somewhere between the lows 2 to low 3000 rpm range. Once you have this number let the engine come back to idle and take a reading. Subtract the idle timing from the total and the difference is what you have as advance. You can then make adjustments as needed to either the initial or if needed the amount provided by the advance slot. Remember that your total combine should not exceed your engines recommend amount. This might call for additional adjustment to the advance slot to get the final numbers you want as far as initial and advance. You can also bend the spring tabs to change spring tension to adjust how quick the advance comes in. Remember not to exceed the amount of total timing that is recommended for your engine.
  7. Anyone down at the Pigeon Forge car show this weekend? Came down for a 4 day getaway and seen the car show going on. If you are let me know where you are at and I'll stop by to say Hi.
  8. Welcome from Ohio. Very nice looking sportsroof. I wouldn't worry about the engine. It's a 72 Mustang that belonged to your father and that's what counts.
  9. Knocking out those small parts now will help speed things up once you get your engine back. Your going to have some nice pony power under your hood. Looking really good.
  10. I can't help but laugh. I love your line "My name is The Dude and I'm an idiot". Best laugh I have had in a while. We have all been there at one time or another so don't beat yourself up over it. At least it was nothing serious and an easy fix. Glad to see you are up and running again. It was a good learning lesson for us all.
  11. There is nothing more motivational then to look back at what you started with and what you have now. Once you see the return on your hard work it becomes easier to push on to complete the job. You are going to have one very nice ride when you are done. Great job.
  12. Welcome from Southern Ohio. Nice looking car. Sounds like you have a good plan in place. You come to the right site for your 71. Lots of friendly people willing to help and tons of good info.
  13. +1 with Geoff. A lot of factors come into play when setting your timing. Here is a good article that explains the difference types of timing and how timing works. It is well worth the read for someone without much experience. FORDMUSCLE webmagazine: Timing is Everything - Distributor Curving for Maximum Power
  14. Sorry to hear. Wondering if some how you got a leak at the manifold and ended up with a hydrostatic lock. Trying pulling your plugs and see if the engine will turn over. The damage is done but at least you will know if that caused it.
  15. Welcome from Ohio. Sorry for the lost of your friend. It's nice to know the story behind your car. As far as restoring your car you need to answer two questions - 1. what level of restoration do I want and 2. how much money am I willing to spend. Even with a car in fairly good shape a full restoration could still run in the upper teens to mid $20k at least. Next question is how much am I going to do vs sending it out to a shop. When it comes to budget this could make the difference of something getting done or not. Labor prices can eat a hole in your pocket in no time. Anything you can do yourself is money staying in the car. I would make a list of the obvious things that need to be replaced or repaired to start with and work from there. As far as getting help you can't find a better place or group of people to work with. There are lots of threads on here and good info to be had. You might want to checkout the https://7173mustangs.com/forums/forum/78-individual-project-build-threads/. This should help guide you some. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
  • Create New...