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Everything posted by Kilgon

  1. Got around to putting on my subframe connectors. Was hoping Santa would do it but I guess I was a bad boy so I had to do it myself. I know one thing for sure - I HATE welding laying on my back under the car! In my next life I will have a lift. Also welded in wideband o2 sensor bungs in the exhaust. Dry fit before prepping for welding. Welded and primed. Will spray with finish when the weather gets a little warmer.
  2. Besides here you might want to try ebay and the facebook group 7173Mustangs.com. Good luck.
  3. Looking good as usual. I can't wait to see how the dash turns out. You might be starting a new trend. From what I have read on this site the only way to adjust the curvature of the hood is to bend it. David - "Carolina Mountains Mustangs " has mentioned that it is the way to adjust them. He would be able to tell you how to go about it.
  4. Very very nice. I'm not a big fan of yellow color cars but on ours with the black lower and side stripe it makes them pop.
  5. Yes - crank degrees. If you are running 36 initial timing figure your max to be around 50 degrees give or take a few depending on the adjustable module make. Most are around 14 to 16 crank degrees total.
  6. Good video. I could be wrong but I think it has only been in the past year or so that they started making a reproduction with the trip reset button. Cost is about twice as much as the one without. Be a lot cheaper to buy the one without and do it your way if you have the tools and time.
  7. Happy 50th Birthday. Rolled off the Dearborn line 50 years ago today. Car has evolved over the years from a basic 302 - C4 - 3.00: 1 open rear end Sportsroof to a 460 - C6 - 3.73:1 trac-lok almost clone Mach 1.
  8. Sorry to hear but I guess you had your reasons. What did you get in place of her? Don't be a stranger and visit us once in a while. Good luck on your next venture.
  9. I also had the exact some problems with my speedo cable including a melted spot from hitting the exhaust. Due to the fact that it is in a metal sheath the melted outside plastic shouldn't hurt it. Mine problem was a bad connection at the back of the dash cluster along with the way it was routed. I pulled it out of the firewall and left it go to a natural twist and then ran it back in again. I also tied it off in the engine compartment to keep it away from the exhaust. Good luck on all your other projects.
  10. Sorry to hear about your new blower. Could be that it is hitting something in the housing when installed. Also make sure the blower is tight on the motors shaft. Yes you can run it off of 12 volts or less. If you don't want to return it you will need to do a little trial and error to get the blower balanced. Run the blower out of the car and see if it still vibrates. If it does then clamp the unit down to a work bench. Run the unit and "feel" the vibration. Start with something very light like a very small piece of sheet metal or anything else you can you bend to make a u c
  11. About 2 hours south of me. Beautiful car. I love the red / black combo. Here is my 71 sportsroof with the same seat trim.
  12. You can get reproductions at the below site for $170 a pair. Rick Ybarra is making them. I don't know if he is on this site but he is on the facebook group "Boss351 Mustang 1971" . Esko's random junk by eskoskimo - Shapeways Shops
  13. Very nice looking. Make sure that your friend or who ever puts them on takes their time and does it right. The bottoms aren't to bad but the backs are a bear. I would still advise you to get the new foam. If your seats are original you are taking a big chance that the foam will not hold up when the new covers are put on. Also, what part a Kentucky are you in?
  14. Thanks for pointing that out. I am aware of that. I should have stated that most adjustable offer up to15 degrees. Most provide approximately 1 to 1.5 degrees per turn. The nice thing with the info Don provided is that you have a good idea of how much advance you have at different vacuums based on how many turns you gave the vacuum module.
  15. Good info. Will help take some of the guess work out trying to dial your timing in. At 15 degrees add on max for the average module you should be able to get in the ball park pretty close with your info. Based on your chart I would figure about 8 degrees add on when pulling 25 inches with about 7 to 8 turns.
  16. Welcome from Ohio. Nice looking ride. You have come to the right place for help. A lot knowledgeable people on the site and they are more than willing to help a fellow stanger. Nice fall foliage.
  17. Sounds like a bundle of troubles. Where are you located? I'm going to take it for granted either down under or across the pond. Might be easier to see if any members on the site here who live around your part of the world have one for sale. I'm for sure shipping from the states would be costly. Good luck.
  18. 2159 - I don't have the foggiest what it is.
  19. Yes it does. Now the question is if that is a 72 Mustang steering column? The original column key lock assembly is a push style. If yours is a pull it would make me believe that you have a different make steering column. If you look at the attached diagram you can see in the dotted outline of the gear rail that the ignition lock engages. As you can see the rail is on the top so when you turn the key it pushes. For it to be a pull type the rail would need to be on the bottom. This diagram is a standard Ford column and is the way ours are set up. It can only go in one way and there is no w
  20. Welcome from Ohio. Glad to see you getting it back out and bringing her back to life. Keep us posted and we do like pictures.
  21. Don't know if I can answer your question? What do you mean by in the opposite direction? Sounds like you have some wires cross somewhere. Check the below link to the wiki section schematics for your 72. You should be able to get your wiring straighten out using this. 1972_full.pdf (7173mustangs.com)
  22. BUTTON SET, SEAT BACK, MACH 1 - #64824-6A - National Parts Depot (npdlink.com)
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