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Kilgon

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Posts posted by Kilgon

  1. Besides the compression I would also recommend a leak down test.   I would do it now so you know what  might or might not be going on with the valves and rings in that cylinder before you pull the heads.   A  visual inspection might not give you a "real" answer if there is any other damage. 

    I would do the leak down and focus on seeing if you can hear any air hissing out the exhaust/intake or out of the block oil filler, dipstick tube, or PCV valve indicating valve or ring issues.   

    Hopefully the spark plug is the worst of it.  I would agree with you on that is probably why you had the drop in your dyno run. 

    • Like 1
  2. 55 minutes ago, Steve McMahan said:

    Ok, let me try and explain the issue by using Kilgon’s profile page as a reference.

    Kilgon - 7173Mustangs.com.pdf 1.3 MB · 1 download

     

    In the attached screen shot, each profile has several tabs of info. One is a tab titled “Images”.  How do you put pictures in this tab?

     

    Go to the "Browse" tab at top of screen. Select "Gallery" then select "Add Images".  Use the pull down menu and select  your year and create an album. .   

  3. 5 hours ago, Steve McMahan said:

    How do I put pictures in my photo tab on my profile? When I open that tab, it tells me I have no photoes 😳, but there’s nothing on that tab to edit, add, etc that place. Help me obi-Wan Kenobi. 

    No for sure if this is what your wanting  to do but to replace your current picture above your name go to your profile and the click on the picture you have there.   It will then allow you to delete your current picture and then add a new one.  If I drag my mouse over your current pic I see a very nice looking lime green car.  I don't know what the current photo is you have as your picture but it is overlying your car somehow.

     

  4. 56 minutes ago, tony-muscle said:

    Nice trick. The only drawback I can see is the possibility of blowing some chunks of carbon or lose stuff back into the cylinder.

    Yeah unfortunately that's the chance you take.  That's also the reason I use the small shop vac, it doesn't blow as hard as a 5 gallon one does.  The idea is to build pressure with low velocity.  I've done this about a dozen times now over the years and haven't had any issues so far - knock on wood.  I start the car and rev the engine up some to blow anything out.  I then let it cool down to where I can touch the exhaust before I do it.  

    • Like 1
  5. 8 hours ago, Steve McMahan said:

    My engines original HP is 150 and my future plans, a few years out, are for up to 250HP. Since you’re replacing your system, would you consider selling me that setup? I went on the Summit site and it seems your setup will support my current and future needs. If you’re interested, PM me. Thanks. Steve

    The only thing I'm changing is the pump itself otherwise I would be willing to let you have it.

  6. I notice his absence also.  He last posted on Facebook a week ago - Nov 8th, 2021 so he must be alright.  He posted that he got his invite for WINNERS only Mustang show at the Mustang Owner's Museum in Concord.  Hopefully he's just taking a break or been extra  busy.  I notice lately that he has seem to do a reply blast to a lot of the post and then goes silent again.  

     

  7. Unless the clearance is different from 71 to 73 the fox body sending unit will work.  I did a write up on the one I just  put in a few months back.  I'm getting ready to replace the pump again because I've had a change of mind and am putting a Holley sniper on and need a higher psi/volume pump.  

    Don't know if any of this will help you but here is the link.

     

    • Like 1
    • Great post!  Let me buy you a beer (or coffee!) 1
  8. If I have 't already said it here's a "Welcome from Ohio".  As most have mentioned it is "your car" so do as you please.  I would agree that if the car was 100% original than it would be a shame to make modifications to it.  The majority of these cars have had multiple owners over their life time and it's hard to find a pristine car. 

    The car I own went through at least 4 different owners that I can trace over it lifetime.  What started out from the factory as a red Sportsroof with a 302, c4 and 3.00 open rear end now sits with a 460, c6 and 3.73 tracloc with stripes and blackout hood.  Along it's life it's also had a 351c with a fmx tranny in it.  When I got  the car it was decked out as a Mach1.  

    To those that strive to have that 100% concours car I applaud you.  There are guys whom I envy like Fabrice for his detail work and Bentworker for his fabrication capabilities. 

     My build will never match theirs but it is "my build".  It's like the guy standing naked in front of a woman of ill repute.  See looks at him and says " Who you think your going to please with that little thing"?  The guy looks back and says "Me"!

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • LOL 2
  9. On 11/11/2021 at 8:56 PM, Don C said:

    I would drill two separate small holes about an inch apart rather than one large hole. Welding sleeves in holes the frame rails would reinforce the holes and give the lines a good place to run through, rather than resting against the metal edges of the frame rail. I would not run fuel lines up the driveshaft tunnel. If a u-joint ever failed you would likely damage a fuel line and the sparks from the driveshaft banging the pavement would likely light it up.

    After looking over things one more time I decided not to drill through the frame rail and instead I'm running them across the torque box.  I was going to be to close to the exhaust plus there was no room to make a connection if I went through the rail.   

    I spent the better part of yesterday bending and fitting both lines.  I pretty much duplicated the original line where it runs under the rocker and into the wheel well.   I will make a shield to cover the lines at the torque box.  Here a couple of pictures of the finish lines.  I need to clamp them in place yet.  

    20211112_123508_resized.thumb.jpg.99b7b213528e1e73b2a1ab741b95b804.jpg

    20211112_150407_resized.thumb.jpg.f9c62f615743f531868c8b428ea349f3.jpg

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    20211113_085917_resized.thumb.jpg.2ba18682a35e7ebebde3f76dd32b7e99.jpg

     

     

    20211113_085652_resized.jpg

  10. Stay away from the Dash Direct door panels.  They do not fit well at all and take a lot of work to get them to look half way decent.  

    I used TMI seat foam and cover.   What TMI is calling molded in listing wires is a wire frame molded in the seat foam that the listing wire in the seat cover gets hog ring to.  I did not use any burlap.  Also, make sure you check your bottom and back seat frames for cracks. See pic below.  

    I also have the cut pile mass back carpet from CJ Pony.   Only have had it for about a year now but it looks like the day I put it in.

    1935513694_FrameCrack.jpg.7fe9d968931898216dd049ed2b32d41d.jpg

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    • Thanks 1
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