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Everything posted by Kilgon

  1. Very very nice. Take care to keep from scratching it during the rest of the rebuild.
  2. +1 on the hydrogen. Just a matter of time before a major break through in that field. It will be a revolutionary event when that occurs. A form of unlimited clean energy. As a 70 old male my my personal opinion of politicians in this country is at a all time low. Very few good ones left in both parties. The rest are just puppets and power hungry idiots. They don't care about their constituents or any of their problems. Just lip service to make them selves look good. How can someone (John Kerry) be the US Envoy for Climate that has multiple houses, cars, yacht's and a jet. I wonder what his carbon footprint looks like? It's the "do as I say not as I do" mentality. As the song by the OJays go - Money, Money, Money, Money, Money! Can't wait to see the US Pres field questions from the press today at 1pm est. Sorry to get on politics and a rant.
  3. I am not a fan of the new Mach-e either. The only good thing about it is the body does has some style to it instead of being boxy like some of the others out the. Electric cars are just a band aid on our long term climate problems. And yes, in reality they creates more pollution then a gas power vehicle when you consider what it takes to make the batteries and motors versus a traditional car and the refinement of gas. Also a issue with the disposal of the old batteries. When we learn how to conquer the power of the atom as in a nuclear fusion "battery" or "power cell" then we can truly make a impact on pollution. Very interesting info on the birds being fried. I don't every recall hearing about that. I guess the environmentalist wanted to keep that hush hush!
  4. It took about that long for it to loosen back up. I did get my switch fixed today. It's a micro switch and the way it is mounted makes is easy to knock it out of adjustment if you are working around the shifter with the cover off. Will have to check it from now on anytime I have the cover off.
  5. Good to see you are still making headway. You can't have to much insulation. Will help to keep the noise down and the heat out. Dash is looking really good with the green black combo. At the rate you are moving you should be out cruising around by summer.
  6. I worked on my car today trouble shooting my climate control system. I took the car out of park so I could get the radio bezel off. I have a B&M Quicksilver shifter that sits right up against the center stack when in park. When I was done I forgot to put the car back in park. I went to start it up and was pumping the gas when the engine fired up. I got it stopped about 2 inches from my workbench. Talk about puckering up the old sphincter muscle and dam near having a heart attack. My neutral safety switch was working after my rebuild. I had added a a/f gauge to the side of the shifter cover a few weeks ago and I must have moved or bent the switch when I had the cover off running the wires. I will definitely be fixing it tomorrow.
  7. During my rebuild I checked all the vacuum motors for the heat and a/c vents. All were working fine and seem to be ok. After reinstalling nothing seem to work properly. I figure this was somewhat due to the large cam I have causing low vacuum. Reeving the engine up seem to help a little but not much. I decided to dig into it a little deeper before going out and buying a electric vacuum pump to help boost the vacuum. Following the service manual procedure on how to test the system I skipped the part of starting the engine each time and just connected my "top dollar" hand held vacuum pump to the vacuum canister. Upon running all the test I found out that most but not all of the vacuum motors were working. Also those that were working were not opening all the way even when I was pulling 20" of vacuum with the pump. If I removed a line from a motor that was supposed to be open I would only loose vacuum very slowly at the pump. I decided to pull the control panel out and to see what I could figure out. This was fairly easy. I just removed the knobs and nuts holding the radio to the bezel. I then removed the bezel exposing the heat - a/c control panel screws. From there I was able to remove the electrical connecters and the vacuum block connector. I also removed the glove box liner to be able to access the one control cable and to see the vacuum motors better during my testing. Once I had the control unit out I was able to figure out that there was blockage in the vacuum mode switch manifold. This unit is held on the climate control panel by a screw. After removing it from the panel I determined that it does not come apart. I was able to see that the selector plate is help down by a spring. After removing the spring I was able to pull the selector plate up from the manifold. I took my air compressor and blow each port out. I then reassembled it and checked each port with my vacuum pump connected to the black main vacuum port and my vacuum gauge connected to the port I was testing. The different from before to after I blew out the manifold ports was like night and day. I went ahead and reassembled everything and ran all the test again. Passed with flying colors! All controls are working great now. I would highly recommend servicing this and also blowing out the vacuum lines themselves if you ever have the climate control out of the car or if you are experiencing similar problems. Mustang - Cougar test procedure. Vacuum routing and motors. Removed line from intake at vacuum canister and connected vacuum pump to it. Pulling vacuum at reservoir canister. Vacuum Mode Switch with spring holding selector plate down on manifold. Spring removed Selector plate pulled up. Testing the mode switch after blowing out the ports and reinstalling the spring. Vacuum gauge moved instantly with the pump.
  8. You should use a trim removal tool. Below is a link for a windshield trim removal tool. Some guys make their own. I would recommend watching a few youtube videos first so you understand how to do it. Several of the members have gotten the one piece headliner that you can put in without removing the widows. You might want to check into it. Not for sure on the cost but they said they looked good. Also eliminates the risk of breaking a window when trying to take them out. If you go that route you will loose the classic bow/stitch look. 1965 Ford Mustang - How to Remove Window Trim and Their Molding Clips with a Trim Remover Tool - YouTube Amazon.com: Tool Aid S&G (87700) Jiggler Reveal Molding Remover: Automotive Tmi one piece molded head liner - Interior, Seats, Door Panels, Trunk, Glass, etc - 7173Mustangs.com
  9. I'm always trying to keep my liquid intake up. I got the Pfizer and had no side effects other than just a little tender where I got the 2nd shot. My wife got the Moderma and got feeling pretty bad after the 2nd shot. Last a little over a day and then she was back to normal.
  10. Great story and info. I'm for keeping an "original car" that way if it is truly original. I think it is hard to find concours correct cars unless they were one owners or were purchased by purist. Just too many of them out there that have had modifications done over the years. A front end upgrade to suspension and there it goes down the tube. Add subframe connectors and it's no loner original regardless of what model it is. Replace the ohm meter for a volt meter for safety purposes it's no longer concours. Simple improvements can take away its originality.
  11. Got any photos you could post. As mentioned I'm thinking about going that way and would like to see a finish installed. Also, was it hard to install or just a pia.
  12. Full vacuum - I would think it is either for the power brake booster or pvc valve if the pvc is not feeding back into air cleaner. Could also have a tee so multiple lines could be attached - power brakes, vacuum canister etc.
  13. Just curious what do you have in your car now? The one in my 71 was remove years ago by one of the previous owner. Been thinking about replacing it but then have also been considering a Vintage Air.
  14. Welcome from Ohio. Sounds like you will be busy for awhile. As mentioned several times above we love pictures. Lots of friendly and helpful people here so don't be afraid to ask for help. We are all learning new stuff everyday.
  15. Looks like a good solid project car. Do you know if the dents father up were caused from him when he backed into whatever or are the from something else. I'm not a body man but I would definitely have it checked out to make sure it didn't do any other unseen damage.
  16. Very nice job. They all look great. Great info on the waxes, compounds and pads. I think the vast majority of car owners really don't want to put in the time it takes to keep their cars looking good. This really gives the car dealer the upper hand when it comes time for trade-in. Bad looking exterior equals lower dollar trade. A few hours in the body shop buffing and out again looking like new boosting the resale price for the dealer.
  17. I've been retired and out of the industry for the past 3 years. One of my fellow ex co workers recommended the below website which offers a wide range of units at reasonable pricing. If you look at the top of their page you will see the different categories. The one that says Trailer GPS Tracking would be a passive or on demand type. The one listed for Cars is also a on demand type but also gives one update per day and offers additional features such as geofencing, start disable and tow alert. They also offer a internal battery only model for cars that will not drain the car battery if the car is sitting for a long time. These report less and there battery life is dependent on how often you ping them. If you look at the Fleet model these are active or real time models. These report in real time at set time increments. You can see the vehicle moving on the map. These types of units can report speed, ignition on/off, idle time, oil pressure and other events. Some companies offer units with a set number of preprogramed switches and then offer an additional number of user programable switches for user selected events. Think of a "switch" as the wiring of a relay or any other type of contact or solenoid that when it closes, opens or engages it will cause the gps unit to report the "event" associated to that switch. Home - GPS Tracking (gpsandtrack.com)
  18. On the gps tracking there are several basic types. Think of them as either passive or active. A passive device is in the sleep state until it is pinged and then reports back it's location. These are the least expensive and most of these units have internal battery. The battery life is anywhere from a few hours to (edited 1 to 2 years) before needing a recharge or replaced. Some of these units can be power by a external source. Most of these will have a service fee attached to them. This is a little different then a monthly fee. Active units are ones that report there location real time or at certain time intervals which can be anywhere from minutes to hours in between. Some of these units will dump their info once per day but can be pinged to find their location whenever you want to. Active units have a monthly fee attached to them. Most but not all require a external power source and some have a backup internal battery that will send an alert if the main power source is disconnected. The upper end monthly plans can include alerts that will automatically call a provided phone number if the unit is moved. They can also include geo fencing where you set boundary around an area on a map and it will send an alert if the unit goes outside of that area. As far as manufacturers go there are about a dozen major players that provide the chips for the rest of the industry. I would consider talking to your local cell phone provider and see if they offer any vehicle tracking devices before going out and purchasing one. Some of the cell phone companies offer them for a minimum fee. You can also check with your insurance company. They may have a program available. Companies such as Trimble, Qualcomm and Topcon offer them but they are more geared for the fleet user. If you do go out into the general market place I would try to stay away from the units that require annual contracts. To many fly by night companies in the industry. l Hope this helps a little.
  19. Welcome from Ohio. Really nice looking car. What part of the country or world are you in? Might be other members in your area.
  20. Don C posted the info from the Ford manual. You are correct about the numbers being all over the place. Strange Engineering list it as 15 to 20" lbs. The 20 to 25 " lbs. as listed in the manual should be the number to go for. If anything I would rather be a little on the light side then to much. To tight and you will wipe out the bearing fairly quick. Seen it happen several times over the years.
  21. Don't know the prices in that neck of the woods but here is southern Ohio welding prices are all over the place ranging from $75 to $120 an hour. Also have to pay travel time to most of them if they are coming to you. I would figure no more than 2 to 3 hours tops between the prep time and actual welding provided the car is on a drive on lift. I would try to get a fix price if you can. It took me about 4 hours to do mine working under the car lying on a creeper. Car was on ramps and jack stands.
  22. Set the preload with seal in. Once you back the nut off all settings are null until you set the preload again. Taking the nut off to put on the seal and then torqueing to 175 ft lbs does not guaranty that the preload is still correct. I try to set mine a 20" which is in the middle. I found that using a cheater on my long breaker bar allows me to dial it in easier by having to apply less force to turn the nut giving me more control on how much I turn it at a time. I won't dispute your 5" of seal drag but if the seals does adds 5" of torque then setting at 20 to 25 would still put you in specs -15" actual preload torque plus your 5" seal torque = 20" total. Same goes for 20" actual preload.
  23. Welcome from another Ohioan. Nice looking car. Really nice to see that it has stayed in the family. Good luck on your restoration.
  24. No problem. Glad to help. Just use the foam tape on the window ledge. Once the window is in use the sealant to fill in between the gasket and body and also between the gasket and widow as shown in the video. This will make a nice water tight window.
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