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Kilgon

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Everything posted by Kilgon

  1. Hi, I'm looking for a set of hi and low horns for my 71. PM me if you got a set at a reasonable price. Just a little fyi - while at the hot rod power tour in Dayton my freaking GRANT horn button popped off allowing the horns to sound. I replaced the blown fuse today and found out that both horns are shot. The horns must of been blowing until they fried.
  2. I had just gotten the car fired up after sitting at my brothers house for 4 years without it running. Anxious to see what it could do and to give the engine a good "blowing out" I drove to the local 4 lane highway and I laid into it on the entrance ramp. As I reach the top of the ramp getting ready to merge the speedo said 75 and as I looked into the side mirror I saw the local police coming up on the main highway behind me. I figure he would light me up but instead he just stayed on my tail. Laying off the gas and taking the first exit I took the back road back to my house with him in tow. After pulling into my drive he pulled up and got out of his cruiser. He ask how I was doing and I said fine. He mention that he had clocked me at 77 and I told him that it was the first time out with it and I wanted to give it a good run and I said I was sorry. He looked at me with a half smile and said that with a car like that he would of gave me up to 90 mph before considering pulling me over. Come to find out he was into muscle cars and he has a 69 Chevelle SS with a 396. After talking cars for about a half hour he said he had to get back to work. I have seen him numerous times since then and we have become friends.
  3. Oh! I got looking at my equation again and I made a mistake in my calculation. The equal sign should be a minus symbol.
  4. Hmmm! A little more math magic. Wife's remodel kitchen with new cabinets = Husband's new Addco sway bars with Moog suspension and Detroit Eaton springs.
  5. Good question. I read various articles on what was the original from the factory to the closet you could come to it. The attach link has info on the paint and the areas and dimensions for everything. Paint Info (50megs.com) I'm for sure some of the others on here will have info also as what to use. I used Sem Hot Rod Black HR010 Kit - it is a 1 Quart kit which is enough to do all the blackout on the car.
  6. To find a slot width take the degree you are wanting and multiply it by .013 and then add .150 to account for the pin width. So a 15L (30 degrees) = 30 x .013 + .150 = .540 width.
  7. He had attached a picture file in one of his above post. Here it is. Still a work in progress but looks like it's taking shape. Looks good for price he paid.
  8. Here are the degrees and slot widths. 8L slot = 16 degrees centrifugal advance = .358” 9L slot = 18 degrees centrifugal advance = .384” 10L slot = 20 degrees centrifugal advance = .410” 11L slot = 22 degrees centrifugal advance = .436” 12L slot = 24 degrees centrifugal advance = .462” 13L slot = 26 degrees centrifugal advance = .488” 14L slot = 28 degrees centrifugal advance = .514”
  9. If you have recurve your distributor and modified the width of the advance slot then one of the best ways to take some of the guest work out of what you have as initial and mechanical advance is to set your timing at the highest "all in" rpm's. Using your timing light have someone slowly accelerated the rpms until you no longer see any advance in the timing and then set your timing at the desire number - usually at 36 degrees for most engine. Depending on the springs you used the "all in" should be somewhere between the lows 2 to low 3000 rpm range. Once you have this number let the engine come back to idle and take a reading. Subtract the idle timing from the total and the difference is what you have as advance. You can then make adjustments as needed to either the initial or if needed the amount provided by the advance slot. Remember that your total combine should not exceed your engines recommend amount. This might call for additional adjustment to the advance slot to get the final numbers you want as far as initial and advance. You can also bend the spring tabs to change spring tension to adjust how quick the advance comes in. Remember not to exceed the amount of total timing that is recommended for your engine.
  10. Anyone down at the Pigeon Forge car show this weekend? Came down for a 4 day getaway and seen the car show going on. If you are let me know where you are at and I'll stop by to say Hi.
  11. Welcome from Ohio. Very nice looking sportsroof. I wouldn't worry about the engine. It's a 72 Mustang that belonged to your father and that's what counts.
  12. Knocking out those small parts now will help speed things up once you get your engine back. Your going to have some nice pony power under your hood. Looking really good.
  13. I can't help but laugh. I love your line "My name is The Dude and I'm an idiot". Best laugh I have had in a while. We have all been there at one time or another so don't beat yourself up over it. At least it was nothing serious and an easy fix. Glad to see you are up and running again. It was a good learning lesson for us all.
  14. There is nothing more motivational then to look back at what you started with and what you have now. Once you see the return on your hard work it becomes easier to push on to complete the job. You are going to have one very nice ride when you are done. Great job.
  15. Welcome from Southern Ohio. Nice looking car. Sounds like you have a good plan in place. You come to the right site for your 71. Lots of friendly people willing to help and tons of good info.
  16. +1 with Geoff. A lot of factors come into play when setting your timing. Here is a good article that explains the difference types of timing and how timing works. It is well worth the read for someone without much experience. FORDMUSCLE webmagazine: Timing is Everything - Distributor Curving for Maximum Power
  17. Sorry to hear. Wondering if some how you got a leak at the manifold and ended up with a hydrostatic lock. Trying pulling your plugs and see if the engine will turn over. The damage is done but at least you will know if that caused it.
  18. Welcome from Ohio. Sorry for the lost of your friend. It's nice to know the story behind your car. As far as restoring your car you need to answer two questions - 1. what level of restoration do I want and 2. how much money am I willing to spend. Even with a car in fairly good shape a full restoration could still run in the upper teens to mid $20k at least. Next question is how much am I going to do vs sending it out to a shop. When it comes to budget this could make the difference of something getting done or not. Labor prices can eat a hole in your pocket in no time. Anything you can do yourself is money staying in the car. I would make a list of the obvious things that need to be replaced or repaired to start with and work from there. As far as getting help you can't find a better place or group of people to work with. There are lots of threads on here and good info to be had. You might want to checkout the https://7173mustangs.com/forums/forum/78-individual-project-build-threads/. This should help guide you some. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
  19. After re-reading your entire post I still have not seen where you have checked the valve lash? I would take a few minutes and at least check it on cylinder 5 if nothing else. I would also bring it to tdc and see if you can push down on the rockers and if so how easy does it go down. As mentioned above check the header gasket and If there is no issue there I would then get your endoscope and look down in the cylinder. Try to have it at the bottom of the stroke. See if everything looks ok on the piston and the cylinder walls are fine.
  20. Don't want to get you worried and more than likely it isn't a rod bearing but I would still pull one wire at a time and see if the noise changes. If so then at least you know what cylinder it is coming from and can proceed from there as far as what is causing it. If no difference then it's one more thing you can cross off the list. If no change then it might be time to pull the timing chain cover and see what you can find there.
  21. They can be a pita. Are you using a spot weld cutter or drill bit? Try to find the center of the spot weld by feel instead of looks. Some of them take a couple of cuts next to each other to get loose. I found in some areas there are welds right next to each other.
  22. I removed the entire top of my cowl. The passenger side was shot above the heater/ac box. I'm glad I took the top off instead of trying to do a partial area repair. Yes it takes time and a lot of work plus the windshield needs to come out but to me it was worth it. I know that my cowl is solid and rust free. Looks can be deceiving. The bottom side of the top of cowl was loaded with rust.
  23. Even though it sounds more in the valve train it could be a rod bearing. Try loosing the plug wires at the distributor so you can pull them out easily. Start the engine and using a pair of pliers pull one at a time and see if the knocking goes away or quiets down a lot. If so then more than likely you have a rod bearing going out.
  24. If I remember right (getting old) there is some adjustment between the pad and the metal. It seems I read somewhere to get a tight fit you want to leave the nuts loose just enough that you extend the metal out from the pad. Using the vent slots take and push the metal forward as far as it will seat into the clips. Then push the pad forward to line up the screw holes on the dash.
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