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Everything posted by Kilgon

  1. Nice looking car. Don't know if you got your bumper yet but since you are changing over to a chrome bumper you will need the bumper to fender fillers. Don at OMS should have them also.
  2. So easy to overlook those things. You know something doesn't quit look right but you can't put your finger on it. Glad you found the problem and was able to fix it. Looks great from the pictures.
  3. Welcome from the other half of Ohio. lol
  4. Thanks. Funny you mentioned ball bearings. The bends over the rear axle were not done with a mandrel and were kinked. Got the idea of heating up the pipe and pulling a steel ball through using a 1/8" cable. Got a steel ball off of ebay but ended up being to tight. Have 3" exhaust and was looking for something around 2 3/4 but couldn't find anything in the size area. Ended up drilling littles holes and screwing in a screw then heated the area and pulled it out. Tack welded the holes. Plan on getting need pipes from the muffler back in the next month or so. One of the few things left on the list to purchase.
  5. Thanks. Followed your link. Looks like yours is coming along nice. A little more extensive rebuild then mine. Wish I had a nice shop where I could really have the room to spread things out and be able to work on it year round. Limited in what you can do in a standard 2 car garage. Got parts in my shed, downstairs workshop, playroom, enclosed patio and my small office. Didn't realize there were so many pieces until I stared taking it apart. ;)
  6. Thanks everyone for the good tips. I will definitely be trying a few of them. I have to leave the truck parked outside due to the stang and my wife's car are in the garage. Made a patch out of fiberglass cloth and epoxy. Not the prettiest but we will see how well it holds up. :thankyouyellow:
  7. A couple of things to do that will also help is to peen all the bolt holes and then to torque the bolts to 12 to 14 ft lbs. Also tighten in a similar order as shown below alternating from side to side and from end to end.
  8. I haven't done one yet but will be in about a month once I get my headliner in. I do know that the easiest way to get the window out is to take a utility knife and cut the weather strip at the edge of the window. You can then remove the window easily without having to do any prying.
  9. Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try. I'm going to try to patch the top of the battery with some fiberglass cloth and epoxy. Hate the thought of spending $170 for another battery. I wonder if the battery warranty would cover it? :whistling:
  10. Just replaced the 2 batteries in my truck about two weeks ago. I notice that the insulation jacket around them was eaten up some. Pick up some critter repellant and spayed all over the engine compartment. Left the house today to go to Lowes and my wife called me and said there was a dead squirrel in the drive way where my truck was parked at. Got to Lowes and opened the hood. I guess the pictures say the rest!
  11. July - Dec 2017 - Dents and Leaks During this time I spent a good portion of it cleaning up the engine compartment. Seem like it took forever to get anything done with the engine in the way! LOL Another area I had to address was a transmission fluid leak. I was putting in a quart every time I turned around. I had already replaced the rear seal but still had a wet spot on the garage floor. Upon further inspection it seemed to be leaking at the line fittings at the tranny itself plus in one of the lines at a rubber splice. They were also several kinks in them so I went ahead and ordered 2 new lines. While waiting on the lines I decided to pull the headers since it would make it easier replaceing the lines plus three of the header tubes where crushed and the headers were getting rusty. I was going to replace them but after looking up the price for new headers (Hookers 6115 - $600 plus) I decided to try to fix them. I was able to get the tubes opened back up by taking a galvanized pipe reducer and putting it on a piece of thread all. I then heated up the header pipe with a cutting torch and drove the reducer up the individual pipes opening them back up. Worked out well. Once done I got them sandblasted and then I painted them - total cost - $120.00. Type of pipe reducer I used this on the end of a piece of thread all to open up the pipes. Headers after being sandblasted and painted. I got the new lines in and installed. I was planning on adding a trans temp gauge so I figure now would be a good time. Pulled the pan to put the temp sensor in and got a big surprise. I notice that the dipstick was not protruding past the end of the filler tube. Checked the part number on the dipstick and come to find out someone had put a C4 dipstick in a C6. I've been overfilling the tranny because of this. After cleaning up everything real good I was able to see that the fluid seem to have been coming from the top of the tranny vent and running down the side by the lines and also along the tailstock. C4 dip stick C4 dip stick in a C6 tranny. You see the tip just sticking out in upper left. You can see the tranny oil from over filling and coming out vent. New Lines installed. Picked up a temp to use until I can find a replacement. You can see how much further the dipstick should have been sticking out. Good possibility I was chasing leaks that didn't exist. Put the headers back on and took the car out for a short trip. Yahoo - all was good and dry. More to come:
  12. +1 on Hemi. See the attached below. Pay attention where the adhesive goes and where to skip it. I just replaced mine not that long ago. You will more than likely have to adjust the trunk latch. I had to elongate the adjustment holes in mine and it is still a bear to get it to latch. Will take some time for the new seal to break in.
  13. The Airbnb sounds like the best option for the time being. No one way to make sure it doesn't get stolen but there are several things you can do to discourage someone. You can get a wheel boot or tire clamp. These are fairly easy to put on and cost anywhere from about $30 to $60. I know it sounds like overkill but you put one on the front and one on the rear and it would force them to drag it or to get it on dollies. I doubt that anyone would go to that much trouble unless it is in a unobserved place where no one could see them. Once you get the car you can add a hood lock along with a hidden kill switch under the dash. Both quit easy to do and will give you a little peace of mine that you car will still be there when you go out somewhere. Good luck on your road trip and I hope all goes well.
  14. Don't know to what level of unsightly it is or what you may be willing to accept but I recently had a friend of mine that dented the pan on his Ram1500 while off road in it. He was able to pull the dent out by tacking a couples of 8 penny nails on it. Clamped on a pair of vice grips and pulled until it was out. Cut the nails off flush when he was done and touched up with a little paint. Can barely see where it was at. Same method as using welded studs and a dent puller. Worked great.
  15. +1 on what Don said. I would just make sure it is the pinion seal and not the differential housing that is leaking. If in question I would suggest cleaning the area good with a degreaser and then keep an eye on it to see where it is leaking. May take some time to show back up depending how bad the leak is. If it ends up being the differential housing then it becomes a much bigger job. If you have to go down that road then it would also be a good time to replace the axle seals, bearings and have the rear end checked out while you have it pulled.
  16. What a million dollar question. I don't recognize them but I can view them being anything from side scoops, mock hood inlets or part of a tail light panel. Put back in box for another 10 years. They may be worth more then. :D
  17. Thanks! I was born in Washington Court House, Ohio. Not too far from you. Still have a lot of family back there. GO BUCKS!! Glad to see another Buckeye on here. My son in law parents moved out to Surprise Az awhile back. I was a 63C in the army many many moons ago! Go to the tab at the top of the page that says Fun Stuff and go to Members Award. There you can apply for a badge for being in the military.
  18. Yes humidity can be an issue if you let the temps fluctuate, IE only run the heat when you are in there working, then shut off and let it get cold. I keep my stat set at 50 so I don't have the issue, actually have the opposite as it is very dry in the shop. I also do not pull any vehicles in with snow, ice, salt etc on them into the shop prior to being cleaned off and relatively dry. Unfortunately I have an attach 2 car garage and have to contend with my wife pulling her car in and out. Do try to keep it dry inside as much as I can. If I had a separate garage for the car I would definitely have it insulated and heated. Maybe in my next life! :angel:
  19. Welcome from Ohio. Very nice! Hope you get years of enjoyment driving it.
  20. I know what you mean and I envy you. Sitting in the house right now whishing I could work on the car but the weather is to cold. I put a 30,000 btu wall mounted gas heater in last year but I have to be careful of condensation. I purchased a dehumidifier but need the temps to be around mid 40's and fairly dry out to control the humidity. Can't wait for the warm weather to get here.
  21. Welcome from Ohio. If you can post a few pictures. We like looking at them and see all the different ones. Doesn't matter what shape it's in.
  22. Must of been great to be there. The GT is really awesome. A real piece of eye candy. I like the oil pan. First time I seen one like that. I still have reservations on the new "Mustang". The design doesn't fit the Mach name. My eyes aren't as good as the use to be but I found 3 for sure in the collage. There was a couple of interior shots that I couldn't make out enough to tell. Thanks for sharing.
  23. Welcome from Ohio. Nice looking car. Seems to be really clean from the pictures.
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