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Everything posted by Kilgon

  1. Welcome from Ohio. Nice looking car. Seems to be really clean from the pictures.
  2. Thanks for posting. I have an area where I can use a little texturing. Will use this to give it a try and see how well it turns out.
  3. The above info is what makes this site great. Learn something new everyday. Thanks midlife and vi.
  4. As David states above, I hope it ends soon also. What worries me more than no quarantine for those coming in at the airports is the situation of illegals crossing the boarders and bringing it. They will disappear within the lower class areas and it will spread like wildfire before it is reported. It's just a matter of time before there is a major pandemic and yes this might be it. Who know what it might mutate to and as with most viruses antibiotics are of little use. Although I wouldn't consider myself a prepper I have always kept extra dry goods, water and a bug out bag just in case things were ever to go south. I am also well armed to defend what is mine. Always figured I would load up my fifth wheel camper and take out west to no-man lands for awhile until things got back to normal - whatever that is now days in this crazy world.
  5. Looks good for a temporary fix but to much black. I think a couple of rally stripes would break that solid black up and give it a much better look.
  6. Not for sure of the make of it. This might help. A Custom Autosound USA1 has the tape player but can't find a manual on line to down load. Try the following link. It is for a custom autosound 230. The schematic matches yours. https://customautosoundmfg.com/uploads/USA-230-optimized.pdf. You can also go to custom autosound and look up their other models under support. Good luck.
  7. Welcome from Ohio. Nice looking ride.
  8. I have two sets from different vendors and they both work fine. Got one for the hood and the other for the fold down seat. Both are the same. I know that when I took the original ones out they were corroded and rusty. Ran a tap in the fixed nut on the radiator support and cleaned out the threads. The new ones went right in with no problem.
  9. Its not for the blower. It looks like it goes to something in the convenience group such as the clock, map light or power windows. It might be a unused plug if you don't have those options. If there is nothing near by to plug it in then odds are it is not used.
  10. If it's labeled than the car should have originally had it. Is there an a/c compressor still on the engine. If not then its been removed. You can look at the firewall where the heater hoses go in and see if there is a couple of extra hose connectors sticking out. If so then the a/c condenser coil is still in the heater box.
  11. What year is it? Do you have a/c
  12. The big connector looks like the heater switch and the single one maybe to blower motor. There are wiring diagrams under the mustang data tab at the top right of the page for each of the 3 years. You can look it up there.
  13. Glad to hear you didn't get any damage and that you are getting so much free wood.
  14. So I see that you decided to wear your belt below your gut. Click on to play. https://www.facebook.com/josh.dwyer.355/videos/10220333801473981/?t=0 Sorry, I couldn't help myself. rofl
  15. Agree with Jeff on the suspenders. They work great for those that need the extra holding power or just don't have any hips anymore. I'm 69 and gave up on caring how I look. Rather look dorky and be comfortable then trying to dress have way descent and be miserable. I carry a beretta pico 380 in my back pocket. Pants are loose enough that you can't tell it from a wallet. Has a pocket holster that is made from a material that grips clothing keeping it from moving around and makes it easy to pull the gun out if needed.
  16. Here is the web link for what Don is referring to. http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/paint_info.htm Shoiuld give you most of what you need.
  17. Sounds like someone has been playing with it! lollerz
  18. Other areas to check is the neutral safety switch and the ignition switch. Could be what caused you original starter to get wiped out. To check to see if the ignition switch is sticking turn it to the on (run) position (not start) and then you can use a remote switch or take a wire and jump the S terminal on the relay to the hot side (battery terminal) and this will engage the starter. With the ignition in the on position the car should start. Turn the ignition off and see if starter was still running. If not then bad ignition switch. To check the neutral safety switch find the wiring harness with the 4 pin connector at the back of the block going down to the transmission. You can bypass the switch by disconnecting the connector and using a jumper on the red / blue strip wires on the main harness. Start the car then turn off and see if the starter was still running. If not then bad safety switch.
  19. If I win I figure I use it to see how fast the telephone poles are going past me! :whistling:
  20. Do you have a tractor supply by you ... they have a lot of bulk hardware, sells by the pound Kudos to Don. He gets it. And yes there is a tractor supply near by but I do most of my shopping over the internet. I seem to be able to manage what I purchase better. My eyes wander to much when I shop in person and that tends to be costly. lollerz
  21. Several questions - First - why did you replace it? Second - when you say pry how do you mean? Prying to get the gears to slide back or prying to get the gear separated far enough to go on? Also - did you change the oil after you got it back together and how much is some antifreeze?
  22. First -Keiths71 - You did nothing wrong. I'm not trying to ruffle feathers but yes Don and the others vendors are sponsors on this site but that is part of their business. They are selling parts for Ford Mustangs. If they were selling Chevy parts I doubt they would be sponsors on a Ford site. I have and will continue to do business with them. Just bought a set of door handles from OMS several weeks ago. I appreciate what Don brings to the table and the input he has provided. My intent to this post was to help save a few dollars on the smaller miscellaneous items. I find it hard to swallow when I have to pay $10 shipping for $2 worth parts when I can buy 2 to 3 times the quantity for the same price. Example on a 1/4" u-nut CJ Pony 12 u-nuts $12.99 + $6.00 shipping = $18.99 plus tax NPD 12 u-nuts $5.06 + $9.00 shipping = $14.06 plus tax OMS - didn't see any 1/4 " - only complete kits which is great if needing it. Cliphouse - bag of 25 u-nuts $5.36 + $7.95 shipping = $13.31 plus tax. - WINNER! If the quality is the same and I can get twice as much for the same amount of money then that's where I'm shopping.
  23. Just figure I start a post where we could share some of the places to buy miscellaneous odds and ends that if purchased from the bigger internet suppliers cost an arm and a leg. One place I have found for bolts, u-nuts and more is the Cliphouse. https://cliphouse.com/ A lot cheaper than places like Cjpony etc and the local big box stores. If you know of some place where a dollar can be save please post.
  24. First time for me. Great inspiration video to watch when you start to lag a little on the restoration. Thanks for posting.
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