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Everything posted by Kilgon

  1. There are 7 counties in Ohio that require emission testing. The below are exempt. Vehicles over 25 years old. Commercial vehicles that weigh over 10,000 lbs. Motorcycles. Recreational vehicles. Motor homes. Historical and collector vehicles. Parade and exhibition vehicles.
  2. Good luck on your certificate. I like the way the car is tied down. To many times they get out the hooks and put over the axles destroying brake lines.
  3. Thanks for the input Dave. I agree with what you say but there is still that "attention getter" when you hear Mach1. It is the perception that Ford led people to believe that it was special. My brother would emphasize "Mach1" as if it was a great honor and privilege to own one. lol. Right now as it sits about the only thing missing from the mach1 package is the hood locks as far as I can know. Everything I have ordered for the interior was the deluxe for the mach 1. The car already had the honey comb tail panel and the front bumper was also changed out. Might be missing a few things yet but as I come across them I will convert over. Hopefully when I'm done the only way you will be able to tell it's not a mach1 will be by the vin.
  4. Color code is 3 which is bright red for the 71's. It is 2 stage base coat and clear over it. Base coat
  5. Going to jump ahead in my journal of rebuilding my 71 but just got these over the weekend from the shop that's painting the car. Got to say I'm excited.
  6. Welcome from Ohio. Please post pics
  7. I ran into this problem quit a few years ago on F150. I ended up filing the bottom flanges off the sides of the battery. I used a wood plane to do it and shaved a little at a time until I got it to fit.
  8. Welcome from Ohio. Very nice and clean looking. What part of Ky you from?
  9. So sorry to hear about your wife. I can't imagine the hardship and pain you are facing in the months ahead. Make every moment count and make sure she is surround with family and love. I will be more than glad to help with making a contribution.
  10. I think I saw that movie - it star Johnny Holmes and Linda Lovelace. lollerz lollerz lollerz lollerz
  11. Anything to make a buck and get on tv. Wonder how many other are dong this on a daily bases and are selling to people that have no idea what they are really getting for their money.
  12. Should be no problem at all. The only time you would need to worry is if you were restricting the exhaust and creating back pressure.
  13. Yes it maters - Counter clockwise. Sounds a little promising. Hope they pump up for you and you get the lash set.
  14. So Don, if the thing is all set up correctly on the bench and the pattern on the gears is good, could a cracked pinion support cause the angle to change under load causing noise? Kligon, Don't you need a press for some parts of the rebuild? Yes a press is needed. Also a dial indicator with a magnetic base and bearing splitter. Can pick up a low cost press at harbor freight for about $90 or so. If you do a lot of mechanical work they are worth having. Another possibility that might be causing your current problem is the preload on the pinon. If they preloaded the pinon using a crush sleeve and the nut got backed off on the yoke it would allow for the pinon to dive to deep when accelerating and be pushed back out when coasting causing whining issues and extreme gear wear.
  15. Unfortunately you are at a point of having to remove it no mater what is causing the problem. I would start by pulling it out and checking the mesh pattern on the ring and pinon to see how the pinon is contacting on the drive and coast side of the ring gear. You can use white grease as a marking paste if you need to. If you can verify that ring and pinon is adjusted right then you can decide on your next move. Odds are I think you will find out they are not properly adjusted. If it is out and you want to try to tackle the job yourself Bad Shoes Productions makes an excellent video on rebuilding a 9". http://www.badshoeproductions.com/
  16. I'm not an expert but I have rebuilt a few over the years. A couple of quick questions - does it whine all the time at all speeds, or just higher speeds. Also does it whine when you coast or are slowing down? If you can answer these might be able to give you some idea of what's going on. Also, are you for sure it from the rear end and not one of the axle outer bearings?
  17. I guess it depends on what state of originality you want your car to be. If you are wanting all original Ford parts then see what you can pick up off of this site or the internet. If you are just wanting a good looking car with no dents then I would shop price and see what you come up with on used vs after market. The cheaper after markets go for about $50 for the rear and $100 for the front. Good quality ones runs higher.
  18. Can get these at auto stores, amazon, ebay or wherever cheap tools made in china are sold. :D https://www.harborfreight.com/pulley-remover-and-installer-set-12-pc-63068.html
  19. You can get the pulley puller for free to use at Napa or most of the auto stores that offer the lend a tool. It is a must to get the pulley off. You will also need it to put the pulley back on unless you make your own out of a bolt and nut.
  20. Welcome back on. Hard on the eyes to see such a well known car go to hell. Looks pretty rough from what I can see on your pictures. Hope whoever wins the bid will restore it back to like new condition.
  21. Not really - the drums are now out of balance - but most likely you won't notice anything. There is a very slim possibility at higher speeds you could have a slight shimmy in the front end. I have done it before on 70 Nova and had not had any issues.
  22. Sorry but I don't know of any kits like that out on the market place for cars. It would be possible to piece together with the right parts and using one of the standard kits such as Viper. Would need proximity sensors which uses radio frequency technology. If you find one please post a link to it.
  23. Good point that tony-muscle brought up about the actuators & relay. The below link is to Parts Express. They carry both but the main reason I'm bringing them up is their page on relays and how they work. Opens up some neat stuff you can do with them. https://www.parts-express.com/resources-automotive-relays
  24. I've done three of them over the years. Two on Ford Explorer's and one on a Saturn. They are fairly straight forward and easy to install. I installed two Vipers and one Bulldog brand. I like the Viper out of the two. They range from about $40 for the off market brands to $100 or more for the better units. Get a reputable brand and follow the instruction. I would get a system that include an alarm and would add a trigger to the hood so if it is opened it will set the alarm off also. With a little pre planning where you are going to install the unit and run the wires you can do a install in a couple of hours. Take your time and make sure your wire splices are good and try to mount the unit where you will have easy access to it incase it has to come back out.
  25. As for the noise you are describing - is it constant when you are driving or only occasionally. Can you give a rough idea what area of the car does it sound like it is coming from - front, back, side? Since it seems to be a heat related issue and can be heard when bouncing the car it would seem to be a part that moves. If your exhaust is mounted properly it should remain stationary to the car frame and not caused any noise when bouncing the car unless hitting the rear axle. Besides your exhaust it could also be a shock or the leaf springs. The shocks oil or gas is heated as the shock absorbs road bumps. After sitting for awhile it cools back down. Try some wd40 and spray your leaf spring and take around the block. If that doesn't seem to make any difference than I would lean toward a bad shock.
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