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Everything posted by Kilgon

  1. As for the noise you are describing - is it constant when you are driving or only occasionally. Can you give a rough idea what area of the car does it sound like it is coming from - front, back, side? Since it seems to be a heat related issue and can be heard when bouncing the car it would seem to be a part that moves. If your exhaust is mounted properly it should remain stationary to the car frame and not caused any noise when bouncing the car unless hitting the rear axle. Besides your exhaust it could also be a shock or the leaf springs. The shocks oil or gas is heated as the shock absorbs road bumps. After sitting for awhile it cools back down. Try some wd40 and spray your leaf spring and take around the block. If that doesn't seem to make any difference than I would lean toward a bad shock.
  2. As Stanglover mentioned this is a subject that has been hashed over a dozen different ways. But it is one that you must understand if you want the max performance out of your engine. To much to soon and detonation occurs. To little up front and you think you have a 4 cylinder. You are looking for the Goldilocks range in timing. Most engines have a timing total of 36* but can vary by a few degrees on either side depending on the build. The only true way to find your optimum timing is on a dyno. The idea is to get to your total by about 2500 rpms but managing how you get there over the rpm range. The following link will help answer the bulk of your questions and teach you a few tricks along the way to give you that top performance out of your 351. https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/03/timing/ Another good video on recurring your distributor is at https://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm?ptype=product&product_id=447&category_id=13&mode=prod
  3. Thanks everyone again for your condolences, - Moving on. April of 17 During this time I was taking notes on the things that needed to get done. On the cosmetic and body side of the list was all new interior, repair battery apron, repair or replace cowl, patch trunk floor, fix rusted area around hood latch bar, new rear bumper, repair or replace heater box, and standard body work and paint. On the mechanical side was brakes, rear trans seal, rear end yoke seal, fix or replace smashed headers, replace heater core, and pull the radiator and have it cleaned. I figured I would start with the battery tray and apron. The battery tray was missing all together and had a piece of 1 x 6 board as the tray with a bungy cord hold down. The apron was ate out below it. I ordered a new tray with support and hold down. I cut out the bad area and made a temporary patch for the time being. I will replace the apron at a later date. Sorry but I don't have a picture of the patch. I lost about 4 months worth of pictures somehow. Was having a issue with my computer and it decided to erase several folders for some reason. Ate out apron Battery tray and hold down from company X. :angel: Took the car out for a spin and the power steering started getting hard. Checked the fluid and the belt and both were okay. Over the next few days it would come and go so I figured the pump was going. The pump had a tag on it and appeared to be a replacement unit. I ordered a rebuild pump only from NAPA and got it the next day. I pulled the old pump and found out that the pulley has been welded at the center of the hub and there was no flange for the puller to grip onto. Had to cut the pulley off. I checked around and found a used one on ebay for $45. A little rusty but I would clean up and paint. Got the new used pulley about a week later and put the pump back on the car. Hmmm - got a whine in it. WT#$@*! Tried everything I could think of to make sure I had all the air out of the system. No luck. Pull the pump back off and disassembled it and took back to NAPA and got another replacement. This one took a couples of days to get. Got it put in and all went well this time. Time to relax and take a drive. Pump before rebuild. Used pulley I got from ebay. Picture of pump from NAPA. More to come.
  4. Looks from the price that you got the Elite II kit. How much can you dim them?
  5. You have oldies. If you do want to replace them there is a spring release on the side you can press on with a small screw driver. Or - Just take a screw driver and put between the wiper and the arm and pry off. Pull the outer ends of the blade up as you do.
  6. Lol - Looks like my old brake line! Say whooo!!!!
  7. No problem. We all been there at one time or another. There is a flat clip that needs to be pushed out away from the pin on the arm to release the wiper. Might have to wiggle it some to work it off. See pics. Screw driver is pointing at it. The bottom picture is how it should look when the blade is on the arm. Almost all the wipers are held on this way. Hope this helps.
  8. I understand about the smash pipes. My front pipes were also smashed when I inherited the care from my brother. After removing them I took a galvanized reducer fitting and attached a piece of thread all to it. See pic of reducer. Put thread all with nut on each side of small opening and insert that end in first. I used a 1 1/4 to 3/4 reducer. Outside diameter measure 1 3/4 on the big end. I then used a cutting torch to heat up the pipe where it was smashed and then drove the fitting up into it to round it back out. It worked pretty good. Hard to see but they look very good were they were smashed. Got them sand blasted for $100 and I finished off with rustoleum high temperature primer and paint
  9. Good to know there is other alternatives. I have a set of the 6115's. You got me all excited about the FPA headers. I was thinking about changing them out until you bust me bubble with the price. A lot of cash I could put to good use in other places. If you go with them post a pic after you have them install.
  10. Thanks! That is our concern. I see that you are in Ohio. The green seats spent its whole life in Michigan under a carport since the early 80's, up until this year. So, similar climate to your car, if yours is an Ohio car. I don't have the complete car history but as far as know it has always been in Ohio. I guess wait and see what the upholstery guy has to say and go from there. Good luck with whatever way you go.
  11. Great idea. I like it. Need to add the pony to it. Could also match the owner up to the car at a show. lol
  12. I know that wanting to save money and trying to keep things original are important to most everyone. The problem I see is that for the money you might be saving up front could cost you several extra hundred down the road not to mentioned having to pull the seats out again. I just replaced my upholstery and though it looked fairly good form the outside the listing channels were rotted and the vinyl tore extra easy.
  13. Simple animation but pretty neat. Should come in handy for some. Thanks for posting
  14. Looks really nice. I'm for sure you made a good purchase. The only person you have to please is yourself - and the wife sometimes. Enjoy what you can while you can.
  15. I agree as far as wanting a paste wax. I like to see where I have applied it and how much. I think one thing that gets over looked before waxing is giving the paint a really good cleaning. I like to use a clay bar once a year. You be surprise how much dirt and grim it will pick up. Even with todays high tech paint there is nothing like the shine of a good wax job. Love watching the water bead up when it rains.
  16. If moving the distributor in just the right spot makes it crank than it sounds like you have a broken wire or shorted. Evidently you are pulling on a wire that is causing the problem when you turn the distributor. I saw on facebook that you replaced the points and condenser. I would first check the black wire from the distrib to the coil to make sure it isn't grounded. If that is ok then I would work backwards and trace the positive wire off of the coil. This wire runs to the ignition and the starter relay. If you go to the Mustang Data tab at the right hand top of the page you will find wiring diagrams there for you year and engine. Some of the electrical gurus on here might be able to tell you right where to go to fix the problem or provide better info then what I have. Good luck.
  17. ok then i have misunderstood. I thought the stamped number 2z500861 ( not the casting nr D1ve 6015 aa )would tell us more. Thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2z500861 should be the serial number.
  18. Back to the original post does dohsvct really know what he has? If it is a Equa lok than it sounds like the S spring as explained would cause the problem. If it is a trac-lok than to me it sounds more like a preload issue with the clutch pack. If not loaded right once worn just a little it will start slipping. Can't imagine any way that the springs would cause the issue unless they were already shot when it was rebuilt and they weren't replaced.
  19. See my post again. I put in the exact year and vehicle. D=1970's 1 = year V = Lincoln E=Engine AA=revisions
  20. D1VE-AA – 1971-1978, 429/460 Big-Block Ford, 2-bolt mains. The 6015 is simply a part code for the block. It came out of a 71 Lincoln Continental. D=1970's 1 = year V = Lincoln E=Engine AA=revisions
  21. Don't know on how to fix radio but to remove it is not that bad. Should be able to take the 4 screws holding the radio bezel and pull it out far enough to remove radio wiring connector and antenna lead. Remove knobs and nuts to remove from bezel. Once out you might be able to get you buttons to pop out. Good luck.
  22. True in what you said and yes I'm referring to open flame non vented type of heaters such as propane, natural gas and oil. I should have been more specific - thanks for pointing that out. I have a 30,000 btu wall mounted natural gas in a none insulated garage. Before I got the dehumidifier I had days when you would think some sprayed water in my garage. Now I'm able to keep it warm and dry.
  23. From one vet to another - Thank You for your service. And a "Thank You" to all the other vets and law enforcement personnel. On left - 50 years ago. I'm starting to feel old! lol
  24. It's that time of year again and I noticed that in this post no one mentioned about humidity and condensation. Unless you have a well insulated garage this can become a problem when using an open flame type heater. Beside the issue of the walls sweating and potential mold growth behind them your car will also get condensation on and in it. Not good! To help stop this add a dehumidifier. Made a world of difference in my garage. I turn it on first and let it run for about 30 minutes before I fire up my heater to help get a head start. I have a floor model that is on casters and can be moved around. It's rated at 30 pints per day and pulls a good bit of that out of the air somedays. It's amazing how much water you can get out of the air. Most of the big box stores carry them. Well worth the investment.
  25. Visiting the Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn. First mustang prototype. Look close and you can see the pony on the hood.
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