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Kilgon

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Everything posted by Kilgon

  1. Here are a few photos of what the original prototype mustang looked like. Kind of neat looking for it's time.
  2. Welcome from Ohio. Congrats on your purchase. Nice looking.
  3. Welcome from Ohio. Really nice looking ride. It's great that you have such a giving grandfather. Next time he gets in the giving mood let me know. LOL
  4. Back to the build May & June of 17 Moving ahead with some of the needed items on my list to do I figure I go ahead and replace the transmission seal. While I was under the car I notice that the rubber brake line at the rear axle was not looking to good. After doing a little more inspection I found that one of the calipers was leaking and the main brake line from front to rear had a crushed spot in it. I decided to do a complete brake system replacement including lines, calipers, wheel cylinders, and porportioning valve which had a broken switch connector. Once again another surprise. The front disc brakes were not original. Somewhere through it's journey the front brakes were converted from drums to disc. Seem not to be a big problem until I ordered the calipers and they did not fit. Now it became a game of trying to find what year and make they came from. Casting number on caliper was of little help. Found a website where there was pictures of the various calipers that Ford used in the late 60's through the 70's. I found a couple that look like what I had and called around trying to find them in stock. Lucked out at Autozone. Was able to match up and they came from a Mustang II. I decided to do the front brakes and replace all the lines at this time along with the proportional valve. I would wait to do the rear later when I would pull the whole rear end out. Due to the drum to disc conversion, the master cylinder was changed out also. This caused me to have to change the line nuts and reflare to make the new lines work at the proportioning valve and master cylinder. Purchased a double flare kit from Harbor Freight. It did the job but had to clamp the tube clamp with another c clamp to keep the line from slipping when flaring. Also the ears on the wing nuts broke. If this is something you do often spend a few extra dollars and buy a good quality one. More to come. New proportioning valve Caliper for 74 Mustang II A little paint to spruce it up. Cheap double flare kit. Got me by but if I did this a lot I would spend the extra money and get a good one. Brake line kit from classic tube. One of the half dozen double flares I had to do. . New lines and brakes done on the front.
  5. Welcome from Ohio. Take your time and find one that's not going to break the bank restoring it.
  6. Easy answer on this one - go to the fun stuff tab and select awards and read.
  7. Dave, Sorry to hear the bad news. Whoever came up with the phrase " Golden Years" sure didn't know what they were talking about. As a ex-smoker I can relate to your issues and the worries of the lasting effects. I hope that they will be able to treat you with some meds and that all else is ok. Hate to see you let go of a lot of your parts and cars but hopefully they will get put to good use.
  8. There are 7 counties in Ohio that require emission testing. The below are exempt. Vehicles over 25 years old. Commercial vehicles that weigh over 10,000 lbs. Motorcycles. Recreational vehicles. Motor homes. Historical and collector vehicles. Parade and exhibition vehicles.
  9. Good luck on your certificate. I like the way the car is tied down. To many times they get out the hooks and put over the axles destroying brake lines.
  10. Thanks for the input Dave. I agree with what you say but there is still that "attention getter" when you hear Mach1. It is the perception that Ford led people to believe that it was special. My brother would emphasize "Mach1" as if it was a great honor and privilege to own one. lol. Right now as it sits about the only thing missing from the mach1 package is the hood locks as far as I can know. Everything I have ordered for the interior was the deluxe for the mach 1. The car already had the honey comb tail panel and the front bumper was also changed out. Might be missing a few things yet but as I come across them I will convert over. Hopefully when I'm done the only way you will be able to tell it's not a mach1 will be by the vin.
  11. Color code is 3 which is bright red for the 71's. It is 2 stage base coat and clear over it. Base coat
  12. Going to jump ahead in my journal of rebuilding my 71 but just got these over the weekend from the shop that's painting the car. Got to say I'm excited.
  13. Welcome from Ohio. Please post pics
  14. I ran into this problem quit a few years ago on F150. I ended up filing the bottom flanges off the sides of the battery. I used a wood plane to do it and shaved a little at a time until I got it to fit.
  15. Welcome from Ohio. Very nice and clean looking. What part of Ky you from?
  16. So sorry to hear about your wife. I can't imagine the hardship and pain you are facing in the months ahead. Make every moment count and make sure she is surround with family and love. I will be more than glad to help with making a contribution.
  17. I think I saw that movie - it star Johnny Holmes and Linda Lovelace. lollerz lollerz lollerz lollerz
  18. Anything to make a buck and get on tv. Wonder how many other are dong this on a daily bases and are selling to people that have no idea what they are really getting for their money.
  19. Should be no problem at all. The only time you would need to worry is if you were restricting the exhaust and creating back pressure.
  20. Yes it maters - Counter clockwise. Sounds a little promising. Hope they pump up for you and you get the lash set.
  21. So Don, if the thing is all set up correctly on the bench and the pattern on the gears is good, could a cracked pinion support cause the angle to change under load causing noise? Kligon, Don't you need a press for some parts of the rebuild? Yes a press is needed. Also a dial indicator with a magnetic base and bearing splitter. Can pick up a low cost press at harbor freight for about $90 or so. If you do a lot of mechanical work they are worth having. Another possibility that might be causing your current problem is the preload on the pinon. If they preloaded the pinon using a crush sleeve and the nut got backed off on the yoke it would allow for the pinon to dive to deep when accelerating and be pushed back out when coasting causing whining issues and extreme gear wear.
  22. Unfortunately you are at a point of having to remove it no mater what is causing the problem. I would start by pulling it out and checking the mesh pattern on the ring and pinon to see how the pinon is contacting on the drive and coast side of the ring gear. You can use white grease as a marking paste if you need to. If you can verify that ring and pinon is adjusted right then you can decide on your next move. Odds are I think you will find out they are not properly adjusted. If it is out and you want to try to tackle the job yourself Bad Shoes Productions makes an excellent video on rebuilding a 9". http://www.badshoeproductions.com/
  23. I'm not an expert but I have rebuilt a few over the years. A couple of quick questions - does it whine all the time at all speeds, or just higher speeds. Also does it whine when you coast or are slowing down? If you can answer these might be able to give you some idea of what's going on. Also, are you for sure it from the rear end and not one of the axle outer bearings?
  24. I guess it depends on what state of originality you want your car to be. If you are wanting all original Ford parts then see what you can pick up off of this site or the internet. If you are just wanting a good looking car with no dents then I would shop price and see what you come up with on used vs after market. The cheaper after markets go for about $50 for the rear and $100 for the front. Good quality ones runs higher.
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