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Everything posted by Kilgon

  1. I think I saw that movie - it star Johnny Holmes and Linda Lovelace. lollerz lollerz lollerz lollerz
  2. Anything to make a buck and get on tv. Wonder how many other are dong this on a daily bases and are selling to people that have no idea what they are really getting for their money.
  3. Should be no problem at all. The only time you would need to worry is if you were restricting the exhaust and creating back pressure.
  4. Yes it maters - Counter clockwise. Sounds a little promising. Hope they pump up for you and you get the lash set.
  5. So Don, if the thing is all set up correctly on the bench and the pattern on the gears is good, could a cracked pinion support cause the angle to change under load causing noise? Kligon, Don't you need a press for some parts of the rebuild? Yes a press is needed. Also a dial indicator with a magnetic base and bearing splitter. Can pick up a low cost press at harbor freight for about $90 or so. If you do a lot of mechanical work they are worth having. Another possibility that might be causing your current problem is the preload on the pinon. If they preloaded the pinon using a crush sleeve and the nut got backed off on the yoke it would allow for the pinon to dive to deep when accelerating and be pushed back out when coasting causing whining issues and extreme gear wear.
  6. Unfortunately you are at a point of having to remove it no mater what is causing the problem. I would start by pulling it out and checking the mesh pattern on the ring and pinon to see how the pinon is contacting on the drive and coast side of the ring gear. You can use white grease as a marking paste if you need to. If you can verify that ring and pinon is adjusted right then you can decide on your next move. Odds are I think you will find out they are not properly adjusted. If it is out and you want to try to tackle the job yourself Bad Shoes Productions makes an excellent video on rebuilding a 9". http://www.badshoeproductions.com/
  7. I'm not an expert but I have rebuilt a few over the years. A couple of quick questions - does it whine all the time at all speeds, or just higher speeds. Also does it whine when you coast or are slowing down? If you can answer these might be able to give you some idea of what's going on. Also, are you for sure it from the rear end and not one of the axle outer bearings?
  8. I guess it depends on what state of originality you want your car to be. If you are wanting all original Ford parts then see what you can pick up off of this site or the internet. If you are just wanting a good looking car with no dents then I would shop price and see what you come up with on used vs after market. The cheaper after markets go for about $50 for the rear and $100 for the front. Good quality ones runs higher.
  9. Can get these at auto stores, amazon, ebay or wherever cheap tools made in china are sold. :D https://www.harborfreight.com/pulley-remover-and-installer-set-12-pc-63068.html
  10. You can get the pulley puller for free to use at Napa or most of the auto stores that offer the lend a tool. It is a must to get the pulley off. You will also need it to put the pulley back on unless you make your own out of a bolt and nut.
  11. Welcome back on. Hard on the eyes to see such a well known car go to hell. Looks pretty rough from what I can see on your pictures. Hope whoever wins the bid will restore it back to like new condition.
  12. Not really - the drums are now out of balance - but most likely you won't notice anything. There is a very slim possibility at higher speeds you could have a slight shimmy in the front end. I have done it before on 70 Nova and had not had any issues.
  13. Sorry but I don't know of any kits like that out on the market place for cars. It would be possible to piece together with the right parts and using one of the standard kits such as Viper. Would need proximity sensors which uses radio frequency technology. If you find one please post a link to it.
  14. Good point that tony-muscle brought up about the actuators & relay. The below link is to Parts Express. They carry both but the main reason I'm bringing them up is their page on relays and how they work. Opens up some neat stuff you can do with them. https://www.parts-express.com/resources-automotive-relays
  15. I've done three of them over the years. Two on Ford Explorer's and one on a Saturn. They are fairly straight forward and easy to install. I installed two Vipers and one Bulldog brand. I like the Viper out of the two. They range from about $40 for the off market brands to $100 or more for the better units. Get a reputable brand and follow the instruction. I would get a system that include an alarm and would add a trigger to the hood so if it is opened it will set the alarm off also. With a little pre planning where you are going to install the unit and run the wires you can do a install in a couple of hours. Take your time and make sure your wire splices are good and try to mount the unit where you will have easy access to it incase it has to come back out.
  16. As for the noise you are describing - is it constant when you are driving or only occasionally. Can you give a rough idea what area of the car does it sound like it is coming from - front, back, side? Since it seems to be a heat related issue and can be heard when bouncing the car it would seem to be a part that moves. If your exhaust is mounted properly it should remain stationary to the car frame and not caused any noise when bouncing the car unless hitting the rear axle. Besides your exhaust it could also be a shock or the leaf springs. The shocks oil or gas is heated as the shock absorbs road bumps. After sitting for awhile it cools back down. Try some wd40 and spray your leaf spring and take around the block. If that doesn't seem to make any difference than I would lean toward a bad shock.
  17. As Stanglover mentioned this is a subject that has been hashed over a dozen different ways. But it is one that you must understand if you want the max performance out of your engine. To much to soon and detonation occurs. To little up front and you think you have a 4 cylinder. You are looking for the Goldilocks range in timing. Most engines have a timing total of 36* but can vary by a few degrees on either side depending on the build. The only true way to find your optimum timing is on a dyno. The idea is to get to your total by about 2500 rpms but managing how you get there over the rpm range. The following link will help answer the bulk of your questions and teach you a few tricks along the way to give you that top performance out of your 351. https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/03/timing/ Another good video on recurring your distributor is at https://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm?ptype=product&product_id=447&category_id=13&mode=prod
  18. Thanks everyone again for your condolences, - Moving on. April of 17 During this time I was taking notes on the things that needed to get done. On the cosmetic and body side of the list was all new interior, repair battery apron, repair or replace cowl, patch trunk floor, fix rusted area around hood latch bar, new rear bumper, repair or replace heater box, and standard body work and paint. On the mechanical side was brakes, rear trans seal, rear end yoke seal, fix or replace smashed headers, replace heater core, and pull the radiator and have it cleaned. I figured I would start with the battery tray and apron. The battery tray was missing all together and had a piece of 1 x 6 board as the tray with a bungy cord hold down. The apron was ate out below it. I ordered a new tray with support and hold down. I cut out the bad area and made a temporary patch for the time being. I will replace the apron at a later date. Sorry but I don't have a picture of the patch. I lost about 4 months worth of pictures somehow. Was having a issue with my computer and it decided to erase several folders for some reason. Ate out apron Battery tray and hold down from company X. :angel: Took the car out for a spin and the power steering started getting hard. Checked the fluid and the belt and both were okay. Over the next few days it would come and go so I figured the pump was going. The pump had a tag on it and appeared to be a replacement unit. I ordered a rebuild pump only from NAPA and got it the next day. I pulled the old pump and found out that the pulley has been welded at the center of the hub and there was no flange for the puller to grip onto. Had to cut the pulley off. I checked around and found a used one on ebay for $45. A little rusty but I would clean up and paint. Got the new used pulley about a week later and put the pump back on the car. Hmmm - got a whine in it. WT#$@*! Tried everything I could think of to make sure I had all the air out of the system. No luck. Pull the pump back off and disassembled it and took back to NAPA and got another replacement. This one took a couples of days to get. Got it put in and all went well this time. Time to relax and take a drive. Pump before rebuild. Used pulley I got from ebay. Picture of pump from NAPA. More to come.
  19. Looks from the price that you got the Elite II kit. How much can you dim them?
  20. You have oldies. If you do want to replace them there is a spring release on the side you can press on with a small screw driver. Or - Just take a screw driver and put between the wiper and the arm and pry off. Pull the outer ends of the blade up as you do.
  21. Lol - Looks like my old brake line! Say whooo!!!!
  22. No problem. We all been there at one time or another. There is a flat clip that needs to be pushed out away from the pin on the arm to release the wiper. Might have to wiggle it some to work it off. See pics. Screw driver is pointing at it. The bottom picture is how it should look when the blade is on the arm. Almost all the wipers are held on this way. Hope this helps.
  23. I understand about the smash pipes. My front pipes were also smashed when I inherited the care from my brother. After removing them I took a galvanized reducer fitting and attached a piece of thread all to it. See pic of reducer. Put thread all with nut on each side of small opening and insert that end in first. I used a 1 1/4 to 3/4 reducer. Outside diameter measure 1 3/4 on the big end. I then used a cutting torch to heat up the pipe where it was smashed and then drove the fitting up into it to round it back out. It worked pretty good. Hard to see but they look very good were they were smashed. Got them sand blasted for $100 and I finished off with rustoleum high temperature primer and paint
  24. Good to know there is other alternatives. I have a set of the 6115's. You got me all excited about the FPA headers. I was thinking about changing them out until you bust me bubble with the price. A lot of cash I could put to good use in other places. If you go with them post a pic after you have them install.
  25. Thanks! That is our concern. I see that you are in Ohio. The green seats spent its whole life in Michigan under a carport since the early 80's, up until this year. So, similar climate to your car, if yours is an Ohio car. I don't have the complete car history but as far as know it has always been in Ohio. I guess wait and see what the upholstery guy has to say and go from there. Good luck with whatever way you go.
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