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Kilgon

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Posts posted by Kilgon

  1. I didn't think so

     

     

    Partially true.  Some C4's did.  The earlier models did and then it was a hit or miss over several years.   Below is a original factory C4 torque converter. I would take the few extra  minutes and check. 

     

     

    C4wconv.jpg

     

    Drain plug in torque converter Ford C4 transmission

     

    Torque-2.jpg

  2. Not a lot to service at a basic level. Fluid color should tell you a little about overall condition. If still fairly red then probably in good shape and a sign the transmission has been serviced. If dark and burnt smell then could have some issues. I would start with a complete fluid change which would include draining the torque converter. 

     

    Check and see what' s in the pan when you drop it.  Look closely for any signs of metal flakes or cellulose material from the bands or clutch disc.  Check the old filter over good also when changing it for any foreign material. I wouldn't drop the valve body unless I had a reason to. Make sure you stay with type F fluid.  Should take about 10 quarts to fill back up.  I would also replace the vacuum modulator valve while your under there. I would replace with an adjustable one.

     

    Test drive and see how it runs.  Pay attention to the shifting speeds and how smooth they are.  Take note in performance between being cold and after it warms up.  If it is shifting smooth and no noticeable slippage or hard shifts the you should be good to go. 

     

    If you experience any slippage or hard shifting then the bands may need adjusting or rebuild may be necessary.  Also would run a pressure check at that time too.

    • Like 1
  3. Hi Machattack,

     

    Sorry to hear your problems with your starter.  Swapping out the relay will not fix your problem.  The starter is bad and will need to be replaced.  You can try taking it apart and cleaning it and checking the solenoid point assembly (under the cover on the side of the starter) .  The problem could also be in the starter drive yoke area ( the parts the throws the gear forward.  See the exploded view.  This is a typical Ford starter. Hope this helps you.

     

    Starter-View.gif

  4. Welcome from Ohio. Just think of the sleepless nights you have ahead of you thinking about the things you have to do and the parts you have to buy! LOL.

  5. To answer your original question, the felt is back about  1/4", so the way you have it positioned is correct. I wanted to verify on mine before answering.

     

     

    Thanks for taking the time and checking for me.   Wanting to get it right the first time.  

     

    Car is getting painted and I'm trying to get as much ready as I can so when I get it back I can move forward on the getting interior in.

  6. Hi Guys,

     

    Replacing the beltline on the interior panels.  The panels were laying loose in the car and did not have any on them when I got the car.  

     

    The new ones I have seem to fit okay but not for sure how close to the end of the panel they should be.  If I slide them until they stop at the small bend in them they sit back about 1/4 to  3/8 of an inch. See pics below.   Should they be more flush with the end or is this ok? 

     

    I have tried to find some pictures on the internet and this site but have had no luck.

     

    20190816-094202-resized.jpg

     

    20190816-095953-resized.jpg

     

     

    Thanks for the help.

  7. I am going from memory. Is the finger pocket not a dull chrome finish from factory? Did you just like shine better?

    I can zone out polishing stuff. I like doing trim, hub caps, wheels and such.

     

     

    Yes you are correct.  Thanks for pointing that out. My handles are well worn in the pocket and already had a shine as many of the older originals do as they wear from use.  If you look at the first picture you can see the worn areas.  I should have noted that in my original post.  I have edited the post to note it.   It's a way to bring a old dull looking handle back to life without replacing it. Adds a touch of bling to the doors.  LOL

  8. Hi all,

     

    Been picking everyones brain on how to do things.  Now my turn to give back.  The following is my way of cleaning up the chrome on the outside door handles when the finger pocket is well worn. This process will remove what's left of the original factory dull color and give the pocket a high polish chrome look.

     

    Figure about 30 to 60 minutes per handle depending on the degree of oxidation.  This can be done on or off the car. Hope this helps someone in the future.

     

    Items needed - Dremel or similar - chrome polish - buffing wheels - several cloths.

     

    Tools-Needed.jpg

     

    Inside of handle before starting - pull handle open and you can wedge a 12mm socket in the back to hold it open while you work.

     

    Getting-started.jpg

     

     

    Apply polish and start buffing.  Use a slow speed around 5,000 to 10,000 rpm.  Work a small area at a time and only for about 5 to 10 seconds.  Wipe off old polish and reapply.  Note the socket slid in the corner holding the handle open.

     

    Apply-polish.jpg

     

     

    Starting to see some shine.

     

    Starting-to-see-some-shine.jpg

     

     

    For in the corners and reaching the far back use a cone shape buffer.

     

    For-back-and-corners.jpg

     

     

    Corners.jpg

     

    Continue buffing until you get all the areas.

     

    Working-toward-the-back.jpg

     

    Now that's what I call shinny!

     

    Nice-shinny.jpg

     

     

    Now do the top outside of handle.

     

    Top-of-handle.jpg

     

    Finish-top.jpg

     

     

    You can finish off by doing the texture area.

    Finish-handle.jpg

     

     

    A few last tips.  Keep using fresh polish.  Wipe clean after every pass.  I put some in a bowl and apply with my finger. Change you buffer from time to time.  Keep moving and don't hover in one spot.  Do short burst of 5 to 10 seconds.  You can over heat the chrome and cause a little blueish color.  If it gets hot, stop and wait a second.

  9. Agree with the Aircraft Stripper. Slop it on and place a sheet of plastic over the liquid. Keeps it wet longer so you use less. I used the SEM ColorCoat paint in my spray gun and it looks great. The small dents in the front are typically from the spotwelding process for the brackets on the underside. Make sure you use a low gloss or matte paint here, the glare is a killer if you use anything else. If the Landau Black is too shiny, SEM sells a nice matte clear.

     

     

    Thanks for the input.  Using SEM rattle can.  Going to put 4 or 5 coats on.  Have Landau black on all the trim so I think I'll stay with that on the upper dash.  I know the dash is suppose to be in Charcoal Metallic.  Don't know if there is much difference in actual color.  Good idea on using the clear matte to dull any shine.

     

    Do you know what gloss level the grill and rear honeycomb are and what SEM line to use?

    Whoa on the 4-5 coats!  You'll fill in the grain that way.  1 mist coat plus another full coat is all that you'll need after a coat of primer.

     

     

     

    Thanks midlife - will take your advice.  I figure a few extra coats due to it being the dash but didn't think about filling in the grain.  Will start light and then one regular and work from there if needed..  I'm using rattle can so I use light coats to start with.

  10. I have done several of these. One thing I see on your dash is what looks like where someone slathered on the ArmorAll. That is what gives it that milky surface. You need to scrub that thing with lots of Dawn dish washing liquid in hot water. Use scrub brush and be vigorous. The silicone in ArmorAll is the worst thing you can do for your interior. 

    Next wash with lacquer thinner and the paint might just wash off some does depends on it repainted in past. Even the stripper will not remove the silicone and will cause fish eyes. I would go no more that 2 coats 3 at the most. If you make it shiny be prepared to carry a towel to put on the dash to be able to see to drive. The sun glaring off the dash will not be the issue it will be the glare reflecting off the dash to the windshield that you will not be able to see. Sun glasses help. You need to back off with the spray can and fog it on the keep it matt.

    I also see you have removed the VIN# tag or someone did. If using the stripper you need to due to it being aluminum I think. Also the rivets are a special flower pedal shape. I think they cost $25.00 for two of them, lol. If you need a VIN tag they are not cheap either, Marti will make you a new one for the little sum of Five Hundred Dollars after you show proof of ownership and VIN#.

     

    Thanks for the feed back.

     

    I had wiped the dash down with mineral spirits to get an idea of what I was dealing with.  The vin is there.  It's taped over with black duct tape.  All 3 vins match - door - dash and frame.  Have started stripping and is going well.  Using Klean aircraft stripper. 

     

    Should get painted today if I can make my mind up on the color.  Still toying with staying with the Landau Black.  Have several can's of the Landau on hand yet and my money is tight "wad" lol.  I'm retired.  Don't know if there is much difference in the color between the Landau and Charcoal Metallic.  Wanting to look great but this is not a show car.  To many modifications have been done.

  11. The charcoal on the dash frame does make a difference, it's just enough to make it not "flat", as you have a lot of low gloss black there.

     

    For the grille and rear honeycomb, I installed new reproductions straight out of the box, just like the factory would have. If I were to need to paint them, I'd think the SEM Trim Black would be fine.

     

     

    The Sem Trim Black has 3 gloss levels -Satin -Semi - High Gloss.  Which one would you recommend?  I'm thinking the satin or semi

  12. Agree with the Aircraft Stripper. Slop it on and place a sheet of plastic over the liquid. Keeps it wet longer so you use less. I used the SEM ColorCoat paint in my spray gun and it looks great. The small dents in the front are typically from the spotwelding process for the brackets on the underside. Make sure you use a low gloss or matte paint here, the glare is a killer if you use anything else. If the Landau Black is too shiny, SEM sells a nice matte clear.

     

     

    Thanks for the input.  Using SEM rattle can.  Going to put 4 or 5 coats on.  Have Landau black on all the trim so I think I'll stay with that on the upper dash.  I know the dash is suppose to be in Charcoal Metallic.  Don't know if there is much difference in actual color.  Good idea on using the clear matte to dull any shine.

     

    Do you know what gloss level the grill and rear honeycomb are and what SEM line to use?

  13. It is metal.  Has a few small dents in the leading edge.  So, if I use I aircraft stripper it will not harm it?

    Correct.  It is about the only thing that can strip painted stamped metal without damage.  You can also try Easy Off Oven Cleaner (must have lye), which works on painted fiberglass textures.  Once cleaned, use a light epoxy coat then a top coat.  Too many paint layers will smooth the texture out.

     

     

    Thanks for the info.   Will start on it tomorrow.

  14. Thanks for the info Steve.

     

    There are a couple of spots that look worn as if something was sliding around on the dash. Just might be where it was previously painted and is built up. I have been using sem Landau on the interior panels and trim around the headliner and a pillar.

     

    I'm building more of a driver than show. Trying to do things right as I go along but the car has been modified. It's an ealy 71. Came as a "02" base fastback with 302 and C4 but has had a 460 with a C6 dropped into it and updated grille and trim to imitate a Mach 1. I know sem makes a Charcoal Metallic. I will pick some up.

     

    Kilgon,

     

    "The only dumb question is the one not asked"

  15. I need to pull the windshield, the glass is good and I would like to save it as possible.

     

    Anybody have a good tutorial?

     

    Sorry you broke it. I found that if you follow the below steps it will help increase your odds of getting it out in one piece.   Remove out side trim and try to get a much adhesive away from the side of the windshield being careful not to nick the glass.  Remove the inside trim and using a slim flat windshield removal tool or putty knife or similar thin piece of steel start working it between the windshield and frame.  Take your time and work around the  entire window.  You will stand a better chance of not cracking the glass if you stay away from the edges.   Wet a paper towel or rag in Mineral Spirits and let it lay on the adhesive for about 5 minutes and then use a putty knife to scrap away. Repeat the process until all is removed. Good luck.

  16. I have an email into them to see if the Hobby Kit can be brushed on or if it is spray only. Would be easier to do the trim on the bezel's and smaller details then having to tape everything up. I'll post their reply when I get it.

     

    Update - Just got email back from Alsacorp and they said it can be sprayed or brushed on. Here are the instructions they sent.

     

    APPLICATION:

     

    Start With a clean, smooth and ready surface.

     

    Begin to brush on your basecoat only doing 1 Layer of base, as long as your part is covered you will only need 1 layer. If sprayed with an air gun, you can reduce the basecoat with water by 25% so it can spray out smoothly from your air gun. Only 1 layer is needed.

     

    Let the basecoat AIR DRY 1hr 70°F or BAKE 20min 160°F

    Basecoat should be fully DRY. Before you use Easy Chrome, SHAKE bottle very well.

     

    Begin by brushing with a CLEAN brush, 1 medium wet layer of Easy Chrome.

    Chrome should start to turn in 2 minutes. Let the Easy Chrome AIR DRY 1hr 70°F or BAKE 20min 160°F

     

    You are done!

     

    I know nothing replaces re-chroming but if this is at least 90% chrome reflective without the dull silver look it will work for a lot of the small jobs at a fraction of the cost.

     

    The question that needs to be answer is what level of quality are you looking for. For me, I'm building a driver that I want to look good but I don't have the high dollars needed to get the professional work. So I will choose where to spend those dollars to get the most bang for my buck without sacrificing quality where needed.

     

    Re-chroming something that is somewhat out of sight will be lower on my quality list than say my bumper.

  17. Hey Don, please let me know how it turns out. I found some other paint that seems pretty impressive by Alsa corp. Has anyone had any experience with them. Their website is https://alsacorp.com. They have a paint called Easy Chrome. If you go to their web site it is listed on the left hand side. I'm thinking about getting their Hobby Kit and giving it a try if the Spaz Stix that Don is trying doesn't turn out to well. It's a little pricey but if it does the job it would be well worth it.

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