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Everything posted by Kilgon

  1. Looks like a split - I checked and graphics express has better pricing overall but phoenix graphix has more decals and options. Graphics express Ford product line is license by Ford. I sure either way you go you will be happy.
  2. Graphics express. They have it all and the best price overall. https://www.graphic-express.com/
  3. I agree with Don. Also, there should be anti squeak pads between some of the leaf's. If any of these are missing it can cause a squeak.
  4. Welcome from Ohio. Sorry for the lost of your father in law. Enjoy the wonderful gift he left you.
  5. This is a update on this post for touching up chrome. Been meaning to do this for about a month now. I went ahead and purchased the Spaz Stix 3 part chrome kit from Amazon for $28. Before using I read and viewed several articles and videos on it's application. Following these instructions I applied to the edge of the glove box door bezel. The results were less than what I was expecting. See attached picture of dash. Thinking I may not have gotten a solid enough coat of the black backer I tried again on a test piece. Should have done first but didn't want to waste any. The test was a little better but still lack the true chrome look results. After a 3rd attempt I gotten a test piece to look fairly good. I applied clear coat as instructed. During this process it dulled the finish. It states to use several very light coats to keep this from happening. I am using a air brush and could not have gotten any lighter without not putting any clear on what so ever. My verdict on Spaz - If you do not have anything close by to compare to than it would work provided you are not looking for a mirror finish. I still was needing to touch up several other areas on the center bezel and redo the glove box door. I had read on one of the earlier post on chrome products about Molotow Liquid Chrome paint marker. I went ahead and purchased one from my local hobby center. FYI - I paid $13 but Amazon has it for $9.50. I was amazed how well it blended in with the chrome around it. Although it is not a dead match it is definitely close and a lot better than the Spaz Stix. It also has a shine to it. Attached are a few pictures of the center bezel and the before and after area I touched up. The after is brighter than what it appears in the picture. Kind of hard to see but it does blends in well and is hard to tell that it is has been touch up I think for small areas this is a very good solution. My verdict on Molotow - Great for small area touch ups. Blends fairly well. I was thinking about trying the Easy Chrome from alsacorp but the price is kind of high. If I do down the road I will follow up with the results. For now I will use the Molotow.
  6. OK - If i got it right this time the "oz" is the white wall tires. I'm 68 and getting a little slow! lol. That is awesome. To think you have the only one that had them from the factory. Great looking car. ::thumb:: OZ is short for Australia. Haha sorry for the confusion lollerz lollerz I told you I'm getting old and slow. Learn something new everyday. I led a shelter life.
  7. Yea sorry it’s a 73. Didn’t mean to put 71 on the title OK - If i got it right this time the "oz" is the white wall tires. I'm 68 and getting a little slow! lol. That is awesome. To think you have the only one that had them from the factory. Great looking car. ::thumb::
  8. If I understand what you are saying according to your post title is you think you have a 1971 and the Marti reports says its a 73. What is the 1st number of the serial number? a 1 =71 : 2=72 : 3=73. From what I can see on the marti report it looks like it starts with a 3. Also grill is a 73.
  9. Good question. Brother in law sells ac and I have used the product helping him. For those who don't know Nylog is a sealant developed for the HVAC industry and has found other uses in the market place. There are two types, red and blue. The blue is made of POE oil which is a type of synthetic oil used in refrigeration compressors. The red is a mineral oil base product and probably would not cause any problems in the trans or power steering. I would use sparingly. You have to remember that any foreign material that might gel of clump can cause problems by blocking passages and ports. Remember there are 3 types of flares. Single, double and bubble. Our mustangs use the single on the ps and trans. The brakes use the double. Also, most leaks that occur on flare lines happen from over tightening and distorting the flare especially on the brake lines. Odds are that if the flare leaks at the seat you are going to have a leak regardless of where you put any type of thread sealer. There are specific torque values for tightening flare fittings based on the usage and type of tubing used. A good general rule of thumb to use is first try to seat the flare in the fitting by pushing the line in. Next, start tightening the nut until snug. Once snug give 1/4 to 1/2 more turns. Test for leaks. If needed, do 1/8 of a turn at a time until leak stops. Do not overtighten. If leak does not stop take line back off and check for any dirt or cracks on the flare. Wipe clean and try again. I would still not use Nylog on brake lines.
  10. Not looking good. First questions is what caused the gear on the cam to fail. Did oil pump lock up causing distributor shaft to freeze? Or was the distributor not seated all the way? Also send pic of distributor gear too. Don't know what you are calling "fairly ok" is. Could be asking for more problems if you reuse it. I would either pull the pump and check it or get a oil pump priming tool and make sure the pump is working ok. I would also do a very through check of all the internal parts while you have the pan off. Check the rods, caps, mains and all surfaces of the block for an damage or missing pieces. That aside, replacing a cam for a novice can be somewhat overwhelming. Overall it is not that difficult just labor intensive. NOTE that if not done properly could cause major engine damage - valves and pistons. The main thing is to follow all instructions and don't take any short cuts. If you do it yourself MAKE SURE you get the cam and crank alignment RIGHT. There is no room for any error here. Also will need to break the cam in - something the newbies over look and cause failure of the cam lobes. Plenty of support here on the site to help guide you if you decide to do it.
  11. I understand and don't blame you. Just kidding with you earlier. You never know what might happen even with new parts. As far as the lifters have you adjusted them since you had the car? Don't know if you have had the valve covers off but if not you would also see what the insides look like. Clean or all gummed up. Good luck on your build and may the Mustang gods bestow you with good fortunes. ::thumb::
  12. Why put a 3.73 in if you are not going to put it to good use? And if it does blow - well then you will know better not to do it again. :whistling: No guts - no glory! :D
  13. If it's flare tubing as the power steering lines are then a sealant will not do any good. The seal is created at the flare and the seat. Sealant on the threads will not prevent a leak. The leak will still occur between the nut and the tubing. Also putting sealant on a the flare or seat can cause issues with contaminating the fluid and posing other problems. But to say I haven't put sealant on a flare would be lying. Have done it after all else has failed and have been extremely careful of trying to keep it from getting into the system. The one area I will not do it on is the brakes. To much at risk. If the flare leaks then I re-flare or replace the line.
  14. Welcome from Ohio. The most important thing is spending time with your son regardless of how you do it. That being said, what a better way to do that than restoring a classic Mustang. As already mentioned above, there tons of info and help here. Good luck on your search.
  15. See the attached article on engine casting numbers. It looks like it is a 302 from a 1986 Thunderbird. E6SE – 1986, 302 Windsor small-block, 2-bolt mains https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/a-guide-to-ford-v8-engine-block-casting-numbers-1952-1996/
  16. Did a test of the driver in my printer and it is working fine. Printed two parallel solid black lines.
  17. Welcome from Ohio. Don't be afraid to show off your beautiful big body mustang.
  18. Just my food for thought. When going back to his original post he states that he is not getting any fuel. As this problem has been address it is noted that there seems to be some backfire through the carb. We know the distributor has been pulled because he had his heads off. As waterlife stated you can't fix two problems at once. I would check the timing first since it only takes a few minutes to do and because the carb backfire is a timing issue or some really carbon fouled plugs. And as 73 pony said when he pulls number 1 he can check for fouling. Could pull a couple of plugs if he wanted to while he is at it. Once the timing has been verified then he can concentrate on fuel delivery if the engine still will not start. Note - on his last post he stated that he heard a tsst tsst from the carb and some starter fluid shot out. This would seem to indicate blowback from either a valve or timing chain issue. He said head had his heads refurbished because of a hairline crack. Could be a valve or valve seat got screwed up.
  19. Pony, Did the new retractable bolt directly in or did you have to make modifications? Thinking of changing mine.
  20. You sure know how to make a fellow laugh. The best I heard in a hell of along time. lollerz lollerz lollerz lollerz lollerz
  21. Sounds like someone did a no no! :huh:
  22. Welcome from Ohio. Nice looking ride.
  23. Sounds good. But after winning 2 beer towers at the South Jersey 39th Mustang show yesterday, I have all the beer I need. In that case I'll send you my address - you ship me the beer - I send you the pony!
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